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Using Marine Grade Water Based Urethane As Sealer

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Hello fellow lure makers,

Two days ago, I had an urge to spin new plugs for the coming pike season, and thus I turned some 18 blanks to use as topwater prop lures. They are red cedar. I always use nulustre 55 as a sealer, then prime, paint and re-seal with one coat of nulustre again. I was wondering whether it would make sense ( and save me much of a hassle in epoxy handling) to seal the lures with three dips into a water based, marine urethane. The can says thatnit is to be used for objects outside the water, but it will only be the sealer and be sealed again with nulustre after painting. Am I going to regret it? Has anyone tried something similar? Thanks for your input!

Patrick

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Hi Patrick,

I think it should seal the wood just fine.The only thing I can see is you probably won't have as smooth as a surface to paint you've had in the past with the epoxy...and make sure your paint doesn't react with the sealer..Nathan

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I don't care about a super smooth finish on a sealer coat to paint over. A little texture will give the paint something to stick to. As far as the sealer I feel it is important for the sealer to stand alone to seal and protect the wood before you go through the expense of time and materials of painting and topcoat. If the sealer can't handle protecting the wood from water intrusion then in the event that the topcoat is penetrated then water will penetrate the wood and cause the paint to blow-up while maybe even causing the wood to crack. I tried this sealer based on a recommendation here and it failed badly.

http://www.targetcoatings.com/products/coatings/em9300-exterior-clear-polycarbonate-urethane.html

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On the same topic I've found that even though most of the conversation about Solarez has revolved around it being a topcoat, that it is an even better raw wood sealer. It penetrates the wood and after curing in the sun or UV box for several hours it is very durable. I use a drop of MEKP in the mix. I put mine on my drying wheel in the sun and let it run for a few hours, sand lightly to rough it up, a quick wipe with acetone and then spray prime with white Rustoleum.

Edited by quickdraw
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The Target lasted a long time for me, but eventually failed before any 2 part. Its plus is ease of use. I wouldn't use it on stuff I sell or give away. I tested Target for a long time and just wrote it off my list. Sorry for any recommendations I mite have made!

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I began using a product called Minwax Gloss urethane that i bought at Lowes. It said it was moisture and UV resistant. It worked out ok except that it said it would not yellow but it made the white paint on the bellies a flat pale yellow.

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