Lexan Swimbait Tails

[djhaddix]

Hey guys.  I have a question regarding Lexan tails on swimbaits.  I have tried to read all associated posts regarding putting tails on swimbaits using the search function, and while I have gleaned some excellent information, I am still a bit confused.

 

So, if I want to make a swimbait with a Lexan tail, I cut a slot in the back of the rear-most piece of the swimbait and then cut the Lexan tail to shape, and I am assuming I pin it in.  I guess the question I have is how do you go about painting the tail, and also adding detail such as the fin spines and such?  Is this simply painted on and then topcoated before adjoining it to the swimbait?  Painted and then attached and then clearcoated? 

 

Hopefully you guys can see the jist of what I am getting at.  I think the tranlucent looking tails look fantastic, and without pouring a soft tail, Lexan seems to me like the only viable choice, unless you use a Plano divider or a margerine tub top or some other piece of pliable plastic.  In each case, just curious how to attach them and get them painted to match the rest of the swimbait. 

 

Thanks again in advance for taking the time to read this and share your knowledge.  I would still be on Step 1 of any lure making procedure without the help of the knowledgable folks on here. 

[A-Mac]

The last thing I do is pin.  You can paint the tail, but paint and clear coat separately from the rest of the lure.  I drill my pin hole at the end and put a drop of epoxy over the top.  Trust me, nobody notices the pin.  The drop of epoxy over top just keeps it from backing out.

[djhaddix]

A-Mac, are you adding any texture to your Lexan tails?  If so, are you scoring the Lexan, shaping with a Dremel, what?  Just curious how I can add detail to the tails.  Up until this point I have been using D2T exclusively as a top coat, but in my reading and researching it appears that it may not be optimal for swimbaits.  Would GST concrete sealer be a viable option (anyone feel free to chime in on this question please).  Sorry for all the questions, but newbies have to learn somehow, eh?

[A-Mac]

I sometimes do.  Either with a dremel, sandpaper, or a bandsaw.  It just depends on how close you want your fingers to danger!  Pretty much anything that will scar the surface will work.  D2T will work too.  There are threads on here that explain ways to thin it a little too.  I have switched to concrete sealers due to the ease of use.

[gunnie3035]

You don't necessarily need to cut a slot in the bait to attach. Two hook hangers and two split rings can be used as well with lexan. It really depends on what action your looking for. Also depends on what sort of hinge and whether it is a top water on subsurface bait. From my experience it's hard to get and even finish using D2T on a hard flat surface with sharp corners. You mention pliable tail and to me this means a little flexibility in the tail. Pinned lexan tails have no flex and act like a rudder and the bait will have more of a mechanical action/sound. Using the hanger with split rings will obviously allow movement, but might give it more of a snake type action depending on the hinge set up. Shape of the tail will make a difference too. I have dipped lexan in DN and it didn't work out. From my experience oil based paints worked better for me or using a spray on auto clear over WB paint. I used a little Dremel buffer wheel before painting. Sandpaper left too many scratches for my liking.

[barrybait]

I'm using lexan tails and I pin them with good size ss wire in a slot cut into the last section of the bait similar to the Wake Junior baits so the lexan tail flops back and forth freely.  After shaping the tail and getting it fit up the way I want it I rough up the surface.  Sometimes I score it with my knife or use the edge of a triangular file to file grooves into it for some texture.  I paint it at the same time I paint the main body of the bait and install it afterwards.  I hold it with small needle nose vise grips at the pin hole area during coatings.

 

When it is pinned in a wood bait, most of my concern is about getting a good seal in the pin area to prevent water getting into the wood and wrecking the bait.  I address this by drilling a hole about twice as large as the wire pin maybe even three times the size.  Then if I use penetrating epoxy to seal the wood or d2t I use a pipe cleaner loaded up with epoxy and brush it back and forth in the hole.  I have even gone so far as to fill the entire hole with d2t to protect the wood.  Then when it dries with some shrinkage there is a dimple at the center of the hole and I drill thru the center of the d2t this time the same size as the wire. Ready to go.