adambuss1 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 How do you determine how much weight you put in a balsa crank bait body? Getting a few thing together to give wood bodies a try, any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 @ adambuss1 Welcome to the TackleUnderground ! I'm trimming my baits individually in a waterbucket , first having the wood sealed against water sepage , ...hookshangers , lips glued in and hardware assembled . Now I'd tape lead shot , rolls of lead sheet , pieces of pencil lead or whatsoever onto the body at desired location , increase or decrease amount of weight and alter location until I'm satisfied with the swim level of the bait . If still uncertain , I'd also do a test run in my bath tub for action with the Ballast taped on , .......when finally satisfied , I'd disassemble the hardware , drill an approbiate hole into the belly and glue in the lead chunk , close the hole with epoxy glue or putty , sand flush after curing and now my lure is ready for priming and painting . Bear in mind , that the swim level and action of the fisnihed lure might slighly vary from your test results , as drilling out buoyant material for the weighthole and also paint , -and topcoats would have reduced the lure's buoancy a tad more . There is a more scientific approach utilizing scales and a small water container having a measurement scales on it , has to do with determining about the water displacement of the lurebody , thus being able to calculate about the amount of lead needed for theoretical neutral buoyancy , .....it's descibed somewhere in here , but I just can't remember where , .....maybe someone else would chime in to point out ? Good luck , diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adambuss1 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks for the info Diemai.... I think I found the discussion you are referring to. Didn't realize it was so scientific but it all makes sense. I'm going to start out with just pre manufactured bodies that I will by on line along with the bills, eye screws and so on. I am not going to try to make a neutrally buoyant bait at this point, I will be happy if I will be able to get one to run straight and true. Your method sounds easy enough, but I'm sure I will get some frustration due to the fact I'm a perfectionist....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) @ adambuss1 Just mentioned the neutral buoancy , as in my point of view it is some kind of a "zero position" with this method , ...of course you must deduct from the calculated weight causing neutral buoancy to get a floating lure , ...I'm just not familiar to this method ! If you are a perfectionist , you might want to stick to the water displacement calculation , ...dunno , whether it's more accurate , since I've never tried , but surely it would be less time consuming , when doing multiple lures . But even when having calculated about the required amount of weight , ....you'd still need to determine about it's location , as weight position alone can significantly alter a lure's action and casting performance , .....furthermore ballast and it's location can render a non-swimmer into to a perfect swimmer and sometimes even vice-versa , ....really depends on a couple of dynamics built into each single lure model . This is why my bath tub blank testing means so much to me ! But like with all aspects of luremaking , ...everyone of us must find out about what works best for him , ....... Good luck , Dieter Edited April 24, 2014 by diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 If your using those balsa baits that are about 2 1/2 inches or so , i like to use 1/8 oz split shots or egg sinkers. I don't use the manufactured baits but a carve mine similar to those and the work good for me. Putting them in the lowest center of gravity seems to be the best placement. Good luck!!!! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Most guys want high buoyancy with balsa baits, so it's a matter of putting enough ballast in the bait to enable it to run true but still have a fast float. Float testing a la Diemai is the way I do it. Just remember that you need to have the lip and all the hardware including the trebles installed at least temporarily when you test it. I seriously recommend that you keep detailed notes on everything that goes into a crankbait and get a small digital scale to weigh all the components as the build progresses. That's the only way you will be able to repeat a really good crankbait build. BTW, the typical finish on a 2 1/4" crankbait runs about .03 oz. When I copy a commercial crankbait that I particularly like, it's easy to work backwards from its ready-to-fish to calculate the ballast needed in the copy. Weigh all the components of your new bait, subtract that from the commercial bait's weight, subtract an extra .03oz for finish, and you will have a pretty accurate weight for the ballast needed in the new bait. I regularly get within .01-.02 oz of the target weight on copies, so it's pretty accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 So a round number #4 or #5 is good for your typical 2" crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Sorry Ardent, I'm not getting your question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Mea culpa, Round split shot no. 4 and 5 is what I meant. I couldn't find a chart that tell what oz. they are 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I don't know what split shot weigh either. I could give you a WAG on ballast weight depending on what kind of wood you're using and what shape bait you're building. But it would be just that - a Wild Assed Guess - and it would be in hundredths of an ounce, not split shots. I think you'll need to float test your bait to find the right ballast amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I am using cedar, pine, and poplar for my baits. Eventually when these are mastered and give me the results I desire, then I will move on and do a few balsa lures. My thoughts were to carve out a cavity and let this act as a rattle/ballast. The theory on weighted lures and action is a paradox. On one hand no ballast means a lively and or possibly unstable bait resulting in "rolling". Whereas a ballast creates stability by creating a pivot point inside the lure, though this can make the lure sluggish in terms of action if too much is added. These are typical what ifs, and it still has to contend with proper tuning. In other words the action fish like, not the user. As I have read numerous times a great action like hunting doesn't guarantee that the fish dig it. On top of that things like epoxy, paint, and drilled cavities make the lure less buoyant....it gives me a headache thinking about all these variables! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I find that for the PVC cranks I make, having the ballast at the front hook hanger, or just in front of it, helps to keep a good X'ing at the pivot point. I keep my rattles separate, and just below the centerline of the bait. I weigh my rattles, and subtract that from the ballast I've determined I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adambuss1 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Wow....thanks for all the information.....I hope to be able to make it work. I'm anxious to get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 On top of that things like epoxy, paint, and drilled cavities make the lure less buoyant....it gives me a headache thinking about all these variables! ....................this is , what makes home carving so interesting ! Greetz , Dieter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Mea culpa, Round split shot no. 4 and 5 is what I meant. I couldn't find a chart that tell what oz. they are # 3 split shot = 3.9-4.0 grams # 4 split shot = 3.2- 3.4 grams # 5 =2.5. Grams If you happen to buy in 1/8 oz it's 3.5 grams Hope this helps! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 On my 2" balsa lures I use 3.4 grams of lead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
