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bucknuckle

Curing Painted Jig Head Problem

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Hello, I have recently poured my own jig heads and built a few fluid beds. My finished product looks great,however I put a few jigs in a toaster oven to cure at the recommendation and the paint was dripping off when they were done. I believe my heat was at 325 for 15 min. Do any of you guys just fish the jigs and not cure them? Thank you

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Agree with too much paint. It's a fine line between having your jig too hot or too cold. If it's too cold, the paint won't stick. You'll pull it out of your fluid bed and you'll be able to see lead through the paint. Bare spots sorta. If it's too hot, the jig will smoke real bad. Paint may bubble. Eye of hook will plug with paint, usually. That's why I use a heat gun to heat my jigs. For me, it's easier to control how hot the jigs get.

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I am just a hobby jig maker, so keep that in mind.

I used to have dripping, too, but I then bought a fluid bed and that cured the too much paint problem.

You have to pay attention, and be quick.  

And different colors are easier or harder for me, so I have to play around with air pressure and lure temperature for each jig head, and each color.

It sounds harder than it is.  It just takes some fiddling around when I first start.

Also, I make sure my jigs are not hanging directly over the toaster oven's heating elements when they're curing at 350 degrees for twenty minutes.  If they do, they will overheat, and drip/burn.

Edited by mark poulson
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Until you master the technique and eliminate the drips, why not take some old paperclips, straighten them out, and hand the jigs by the eye instead of the hook.  This way, if there is a drip, it will run down the hook shank and you can cut it off with a knife.  If you hand the jighead by the hook, the drip will run down and cover the eye.

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If you coat the jig and it looks really course, hold it over the heat gun while rotating and it will flux over to a smooth coat so you can tap on the others colors if doing multi color. If not, just hang it in the oven, it will smooth out.

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On my BIG saltwater jigs pre heating in the oven is the only way it will work for me.

But on smaller stuff I use a heat gun with adjustable temp.

I set it where I want it so I can't overheat or under heat the jigs. I can hold them in the heat as long as I want and with the temp set right they don't get too hot.

So when I do soldered ice blades such as teardrops I set it just below the solders melting temp. 

This has saved me a bunch of jigs because of the low melting point of the solder.

When I do other stuff I can turn it back up to a safe range for pure lead jigs.

Mine is a Dewalt. The temp adjuster is on the back and is just turned cw or ccw to adjust it up or down.

yes manufacturers have different temps and times for each color. I do mine for ~25 minutes at ~350*f  regardless of color,brand etc, and they turn out just fine and hold up well.

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If when you put your hot jig in the powder paint and it melts to gloss right away it's way to hot. It should be covered with paint, but dull looking. I use a heat gun in a vise so it's pointing up. I heat it on high and the jig very close to the heat. Drip in the paint and finish melting as far away from heat as possible. I cure mine at 325 for 30 mins. Also helps if you do all the same size at the same time. So all the 1/4 oz. and then move on to the next size. If you mix sizes you will make more mistakes in heating. If you end up with voids in the paint return to the heat to gloss over then take a small paint brush and tap paint on the light spot. It will fill it in.

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Thank you for all the info gentlemen. I have dipped some more jigs, busted my eyes out then cured them in a toaster oven at 300 deg. For 20 min. I notice there much harder and smoother. I dropped tested one o. The floor before curing and it took a big chip out of it. Then after curing I did the same test and no chips of dings. Thanks again for all the help

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