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Thru Wire Lure

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Yep it's me again. I have started a 8" Musky Lure and I have decided to put a thru wire in it. I have also decided to run the wire higher in the back and shoulder of the lure, then coming down to under the nose. This will allow ballast being installed as needed. Also you need to know that I'm using poplar wood. It is more of a perch profile.

I used a dremel to make the groove for the wire but I must not be using the right bit. It seems to be a tad awkward to use. I got the first one done, but thought that it might would be a good idea to ask. What bits do y'all use or maybe even a different technique?

If this one goes well, I'll use the pattern to make a swim bait. I have found that putting the rattle as close as possible to the exterior of the lure, the rattle is more pronounced then where I have seen some people put them. I've seen the rattles put 3/8"-1/2" inside a bait, I'm trying to keep them at about 3/16" from the exterior. This will keep the cutting from breaking out, even with using a mortise press.

I would appreciate any ideas to my questions or any advice to making a bait like this.



Edited by DaleSW
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I use an engraving bit for similar tasks... It likes to walk when it hits wood grain, but i found by accident that its easier to control cutting into epoxy (no grain)

Just an idea, try on scrap first.. Not liable for damages (ha ha!)

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I found a slightly larger diameter cutting wheel. It was also a bit thicker at around 1/16". I found this bit very useful for cutting slots. Usual woodworking rules apply; go slow and let the cutter do the work.


It is important to cut the slot slightly wider than the cutter, otherwise it binds with the contact on both top and bottom surfaces. Keep working the cutter from side to side, to reduce the friction and prevent the binding.



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Yes ,a small cutting wheel for the dremel is a better way to go than a bit for cutting a groove. Almost all the baits I build for Musky are thru-wire, I just prefer it. Here are two different methods that have worked well for me. Drill through. I use my lathe, but a larger drill press would work. I have a drill chuck for my lathe, so I'll use an 1/8" bit in the chuck. Calculate and mark the angle of the line. Position one end at the tailstock and start drilling at the other end line mark. SLOWLY, move the tailstock toward the bit while holding the lure . I start with a regular 2 1/2" long bit, then chuck up a 5" long bit. If you are doing a "Grandma" style crank you can then drill a short under the nose angle up toward the main line through. Also, drill short drops for hook hangers up from the belly with a larger bit to fit paper clip style wires.

  Another method that has worked well for many style baits is by starting off with 2 pieces for a sandwich. Use two pieces slightly thicker than your desired finished thickness and larger than the finished profile. Use short dowels and pin the two together in places that won't interfere with the thru-wire, hook hangers, ballast or lip locations. Now you can cut the side profile and start shaping, carving, drill through with a small bit for exact eye placement if desired, whatever. When you are done you can split that baby open and work on the inside. Wire thru, hook hangers, ballast, rattles or sound chambers, maybe even a moving ballast system for improved casting, whatever you would like. Then, glue that thing back together, fill any imperfections, seal, prime,paint and topcoat. If you are wondering what that might look like check out the Yellow Perch in my Gallery.  Good Luck, and Happy Fishing,



Edited by Rowhunter
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First choice for me would not to do a through wire.   :lolhuh:    


Personally I would just do a two piece construction.   Use double sided sticky tape or the old paper/glue trick to put the halves together to do all your shaping and carving.  After done open it back in half then install the through wire, weights, rattles, etc... and glue back together. Just ends up giving a much cleaner bait to paint and makes getting weight layout placement of stuff easier.  


The cut off wheel  is likely the most readily available  if you are wanting to make a few slots but I find it my last choice for something like this as time consuming, difficult to get consistent straight lines, etc... but it is the cheapest and probably easiest to source way for a lot guys.  Next cheapest (power method) is likely a slitting saw arbor and blade in your drill press (some negatives with wear on the drill press but for a few baits no big deal).


http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1438?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_medium=link&utm_source=directhinge slot blade A lot of different ways to approach this issue.


If you are set on the slot then a dozuk or ryoba sawi  are a very fast way to get consistent straight cuts, but only practical if dong a few baits.   Mark your needed slot on the bait and position in a vise.   A few pulls either slightly angled to make wedge slot or vertical and then clear slot with pick.   May take a little practice but one can get very clean quick slots this way.  I have a tendency to use the dozuki but it has a very fine kerf.


If you end up making a lot of these baits then likely a power method is the likely option.   A router likely the best bet and safest.  I have a router attachment for my dremel and attached centering pins (mortise centering base).   With a spiral upcut bit you can make a few passes and get a good slot. Issue is the dremel just doens't have enough umph for the task.   The dremel is not the way to go however and a palm router with a spiral upcut bit would work with the base and easy to make.




I would look into a slot cutter bit and use my router table however.  Once set up you could knock out a lot of slots in no time with a proper blank holder.   


There are ways to do it on a table saw set up also but need jigs and other safety features and probably not the way to go for most.  Likely shouldn't even have mentioned it.

Edited by Travis
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Thanks all of you. I'm going to set up a jig to cut a clean slot using a router. Just need to get a bit of about 3/16".

Yes Sir Travis I would have to, but this is for another person that wants it. So.....he gets what he wants. I'll keep this one for a prototype, to revisit when needed.

Especially since I know how strong a barrel twist hanger is in hard wood. Oh well?

Thanks again


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