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Super Shad Rap - Blueprint?

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Hey all,

Does anyone know if plans/tutorials to Rapala's Super Shad rap are available anywhere? Or has anyone made replicas/recreated with any success?

 

This lure produces very well up in Northern Ontario, and specifically only the perch pattern. They get torn apart pretty quickly, and I'm kinda tired of paying $17+ to replace them.

 

In case you don't know what I'm talking about here's a link: https://rapala.ca/products/super-shad-rap

 

 

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I've repainted them lots.  I'm located in Kenora, the true north.  You sand them down and I can paint them perch again.  China manufacturers have a similar bait but you would have to order 100-300 minimum order.  And i doubt they will have quality glue or ring ties, they could also warp in the sun or crack on the seam.  Its a chance and investment you have to gamble on sometimes.  

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They are typically balsa so fixing them can be tricky but I know i've fixed a few of those baits with some gorrilla glue and a dremmel tool.  That said the time spent to fasten and glue everything in place and sand it smooth for paint cost more time then buying a new one.  Best just stock up the next time you see them on sale at cabelas if your looking to save a buck.  

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The closest I have found is here but the bill mounting seems a bit odd and I would feel better with a through wire myself but it's a starting point.

http://wobblerbaujw.jimdo.com/schablonen/wobbler/#Wobbler

I know some guys just take pictures to define top and side profiles. but another option to reverse engineer is to use a profile gauge. you can use it to copy top and site profiles along with a couple of cross sections.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32522&cat=1,42936,42958

I have not made a bait like this yet but it's on the list. At first I was going to do a saw cut through wire I would cut the blank out of a balsa 2x4 that I found. But recently I have been playing with a lipless bait that is a laminated construction and I am thinking type of construction could by one improvement on the bait an easy to implement rattle.

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The closest I have found is here but the bill mounting seems a bit odd and I would feel better with a through wire myself but it's a starting point.

http://wobblerbaujw.jimdo.com/schablonen/wobbler/#Wobbler

I know some guys just take pictures to define top and side profiles. but another option to reverse engineer is to use a profile gauge. you can use it to copy top and site profiles along with a couple of cross sections.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32522&cat=1,42936,42958

I have not made a bait like this yet but it's on the list. At first I was going to do a saw cut through wire I would cut the blank out of a balsa 2x4 that I found. But recently I have been playing with a lipless bait that is a laminated construction and I am thinking type of construction could by one improvement on the bait an easy to implement rattle.

Thanks for the link and info. I was hoping someone had done the majority of the legwork already that would speed up the replication process somewhat. :)

 

It looks like I'll have to start from scratch, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, generally it's the best way to learn and improve skills in my opinion.

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As Aulrich has stated about profile gauges, I agree if you are up for shaping them it's pretty fun. I also agree with reverse engineering.

I have only reversed engineered to make one crank. The remainder I made from an idea. However I use the profile gauge once I get a prototype made.You can get pretty close each time. I get some ideas from the cranks being manufactured or has been. Most of the knowledge tho came from here at TU.

These people has helped me a lot in one way or another. Making them maybe something to think about. But buying and painting them is easier.

Take care,

Dale

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I second the Rapala X-ray's! I want to say they are contained in the Rapala Bible? The book is in Japanese. They are great help. I used an X-ray to see the balast on the Rapala original floater and was able to get my balsa replica very close. F you find them all, go through them! You would be surprised by some of the lures, and the position of ballast and such.

On a side note, having fish tear up a lure means your getting bit! No toothy critters where I live cept for walleye though so I don't really know the pain. :haha:

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That Xray shows the ballast at the belly hook hanger, extending all the way up to the through wire.  Having the ballast go up that high, plus the weight of the through wire itself, will add to the bait's wobble.  I've found that the higher the ballast, the more unstable the bait.  That's how I achieved a hunting action in my cranks.

I think the offset lip, with a flat face deflecting water like a wake bait, and the horizontal lip at the lower location pulling the bait down, have to add to the bait's semi-instability, which translates into wobble, too.

Edited by mark poulson
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I have played around with the contoured lips and are still working with them. I believe in what Mark has stated, two fold.

My opinion is this, the shape of the bill can move the bait in a "pitch and yaw" action. The shape also focuses the water into a confined area at the nose of the bait. This is depending on the shape of the bill.

If your bait is design/shaped properly for this type of bill shape the movement of the water around the bait creates a much more aggressive action.

I use ss tubing in different sizes to form the contour, with a heat gun and a ss hose/tube clamps on lexan. The clamps allow me to tightened slowly.

Have a great day,

Dale

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I believe there was a post about using a womans hair flat iron to heat and bend bills of this and similar types awhile back

 

Like someone mentioned above, you can find anything in the ''archives" on T.U ------------- You just have to look !! :lolhuh:

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/13053-polycarbonate-lexan-lip-former/

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/11740-compound-bending-lexan/

 

Still using mine .

Pete

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