lead weight hook hangers

[fishon-son]

I'm carving a bait id like to make 1/2 oz  the lead weight hook hangers on Lpo  what size do I get ?  and I'm guessing these are epoxied in to the bait.. balsa bait lipless would the weight hanger only be put up front ?  

[Skeeter]

From reading this I gather that you want the entire bait to weigh 1/2 oz.  So you have to make up the body of the lure and weigh that along with the hook hangers, hooks, and all split rings. Then see what kind of weight that you have left to play with. What I mean is, if your body and all of your parts come up to 1/4 oz, then you have 1/4 oz. left to play with for the ballast weight of your bait. No knowing what you are making is kind of tough. Some baits, such as jerkbaits, can have more than one weight. 

Personally, I would make the bait and get it to work properly, and then worry about the overall weight of the bait.

Skeeter

 

[fishon-son]

THANKS  1/2 MAX WEIGHT WAS THE TARGET..BUT I UNDERSTAND YOUR POINT AND THINK THATS WHERE ILL GO  . I DO HAVE A SCALE AND IM GOING TO ADD THE BAIT HANGERS AND HOOK TO JUST SEE WHERE IM AT      THANK YOU AGAIN

 

[fishon-son]

dam caps

 

[mark poulson]

3 hours ago, fishon-son said:

dam caps

 

 

That's okay.  I'm kind of hard of hearing, so it doesn't bother me.

[mohawkman]

2 hours ago, mark poulson said:

 

That's okay.  I'm kind of hard of hearing, so it doesn't bother me.

I laughed too hard at this

[BobP]

I typically do what Skeeter suggests, using a scale and subtraction of component weights to get the ballast needed to hit a target weight.  That works well when copying a commercial wood lipped crankbait, most of which use single unit belly ballast/hangers.  But if you are building a lipless bait from a plastic rattle bait original, the method is pretty useless because weight shifting castability and sound are lost, and the same goes for any bait that uses shifting weight to promote long casts and noise.  Some plastic baits just don’t copy well in wood.