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Select Pine

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I don't think it is used a lot, but it is a decent material.  It is a little more open grained then some more favored woods, a little more inconsistent then some more favored woods, but in my youth I made lures with it.  

As long as you get select pine that is well dried and lacks cracks, you should do just fine with it.  It is about .71 g/cm^3 in density, so it is on the heavier side of some of the most favored woods as well.  

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17 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

I don't think it is used a lot, but it is a decent material.  It is a little more open grained then some more favored woods, a little more inconsistent then some more favored woods, but in my youth I made lures with it.  

As long as you get select pine that is well dried and lacks cracks, you should do just fine with it.  It is about .71 g/cm^3 in density, so it is on the heavier side of some of the most favored woods as well.  

 

Any tips for selecting the driest pine? 

 

12 hours ago, mark poulson said:

I used to love the smell when we had to  build something out of pine.  

 

Yeah it is nice. 

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Kiln dried wood is the lightest.  Lumber yards and home improvement centers should carry it.

We used to be able to buy white pine.  I don't know if it's still available.

I tried to look for the lightest, most consistent color pine, with the finest grain.  That seemed to always have less resin, which can bleed through when you're painting your lures.  

And you can tell how much resin is in a board by picking it up.  It will be heavier than boards of the same size with less resin.  Those resin board will also have a darker, almost orange cast to their grain.

 

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I don't use pine too much (for lures) but sure it can be used.  Go with the best grade and buy bigger boards.  The pith is junk and you want to use quarter sawn or rift sawn.  You rarely will find that in smaller width boards.   I would look at 12 inch wide boards and get the closest straightest grain possible.   Essentially stay away from any boards exhibiting  a lot cathedral grain.  In the board below I would essentially rip it length wise and the center section gets sent to the burn pile.  

Wood%20Grain.jpg

 

Beetle kill pine is another option and is typically ends up having less pitch do the the prior infestation with beetles and resulting fungi.  Overall I find it works up a lot better.  Can find pieces with out as much "blue staining"that is whiter in color than many of the other species of pine.   The lathe stand below is from beetle kill pine  and  often do to the color it gets graded low so nicer pieces can be found for cheap, however it is gaining popularity and some places are starting to charge more.

0cfd648f-0d92-4f66-b9e1-52e99ef55b29_zpsfimxgttm.thumb.JPG.9e3f4be3268659d7701d54aa9bc5cfcf.JPG

Edited by Travis
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15 hours ago, Travis said:

I don't use pine too much (for lures) but sure it can be used.  Go with the best grade and buy bigger boards.  The pith is junk and you want to use quarter sawn or rift sawn.  You rarely will find that in smaller width boards.   I would look at 12 inch wide boards and get the closest straightest grain possible.   Essentially stay away from any boards exhibiting  a lot cathedral grain.  In the board below I would essentially rip it length wise and the center section gets sent to the burn pile.  

Wood%20Grain.jpg

 

Beetle kill pine is another option and is typically ends up having less pitch do the the prior infestation with beetles and resulting fungi.  Overall I find it works up a lot better.  Can find pieces with out as much "blue staining"that is whiter in color than many of the other species of pine.   The lathe stand below is from beetle kill pine  and  often do to the color it gets graded low so nicer pieces can be found for cheap, however it is gaining popularity and some places are starting to charge more.

0cfd648f-0d92-4f66-b9e1-52e99ef55b29_zpsfimxgttm.thumb.JPG.9e3f4be3268659d7701d54aa9bc5cfcf.JPG

 

That's a beautiful lathe base cabinet!

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Thanks Mark.   It is sturdy and so far has done the job well.   I ended up using a splayed leg design for stability.   There is also a 3/4 ply bottom dadoed in the bottom 2x 6 to create a nice space.  I lined it with plastic and then put some heavy duty garbage bags in it and filled with sand then folded them shut/duct taped and then put a 1/4 ply lid on it.   That way I can easily remove the sand if needed.      

I will also highly recommend the Rockler work bench casters.  They work very well.   Many modify them by joining them together so you can raise one side at once by stepping on the bar spanning between the two.

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On 1/3/2018 at 10:26 AM, mark poulson said:

Kiln dried wood is the lightest.  Lumber yards and home improvement centers should carry it.

We used to be able to buy white pine.  I don't know if it's still available.

I tried to look for the lightest, most consistent color pine, with the finest grain.  That seemed to always have less resin, which can bleed through when you're painting your lures.  

And you can tell how much resin is in a board by picking it up.  It will be heavier than boards of the same size with less resin.  Those resin board will also have a darker, almost orange cast to their grain.

 

 

On 1/3/2018 at 5:35 PM, Travis said:

I don't use pine too much (for lures) but sure it can be used.  Go with the best grade and buy bigger boards.  The pith is junk and you want to use quarter sawn or rift sawn.  You rarely will find that in smaller width boards.   I would look at 12 inch wide boards and get the closest straightest grain possible.   Essentially stay away from any boards exhibiting  a lot cathedral grain.  In the board below I would essentially rip it length wise and the center section gets sent to the burn pile.  

Wood%20Grain.jpg

 

Great info guys, thanks!

 

 

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23 hours ago, Travis said:

Thanks Mark.   It is sturdy and so far has done the job well.   I ended up using a splayed leg design for stability.   There is also a 3/4 ply bottom dadoed in the bottom 2x 6 to create a nice space.  I lined it with plastic and then put some heavy duty garbage bags in it and filled with sand then folded them shut/duct taped and then put a 1/4 ply lid on it.   That way I can easily remove the sand if needed.      

I will also highly recommend the Rockler work bench casters.  They work very well.   Many modify them by joining them together so you can raise one side at once by stepping on the bar spanning between the two.

Again, well done!

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On 1/3/2018 at 10:26 AM, mark poulson said:

Kiln dried wood is the lightest.  Lumber yards and home improvement centers should carry it.

We used to be able to buy white pine.  I don't know if it's still available.

I tried to look for the lightest, most consistent color pine, with the finest grain.  That seemed to always have less resin, which can bleed through when you're painting your lures.  

And you can tell how much resin is in a board by picking it up.  It will be heavier than boards of the same size with less resin.  Those resin board will also have a darker, almost orange cast to their grain.

 

 

Mark, you mentioned that the resin can bleed through. Do you think adding a coat of epoxy before paint would contain any resin that might try to escape? 

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48 minutes ago, rui said:

 

Mark, you mentioned that the resin can bleed through. Do you think adding a coat of epoxy before paint would contain any resin that might try to escape? 

I would think so, but I've never done that.  The baits I made pine were made from really white pine.  That was over 10 years ago, and was pine I'd had in the garage for another 10 years at least),  so I can't speak to the quality of the wood available today.

 

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10 hours ago, woodieb8 said:

envirotex will stop bleed on pine .

 

Yes it seems to be working. I painted 2 baits. One with etex and one without. The etex one is still white and the other is already turning yellow. 

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