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macstackleman

Foam Crankbait bodies

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I have been carving foam baits for awhile now and see nothing but advantages with them!

I do not see anyone discussing foam bodies on this site!

Just curious is there something I am missing?

As buoyant as balsa, does not absorb water, easy to work with, no graining to worry about!

Just to name a few positives off the top of my head!

Love this site!

Thanks

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20 minutes ago, macstackleman said:

So you molded your bodies?

I am carving from a block.

Mac:

I have been making crank baits from block HD foam for a while and love the stuff.   Having played with 20 - 30 pound per cubic foot materials and find the lighter weight materials best suited for lures.  The  only downside is cost and availability.   I have been shaping and cutting weight pockets,  wire tracks and lips slots with a CNC.  Works very well.  Can you tell me your source and details about the foam you are using?  I will respond in kind.  Respond here or PM your choice.  I. would prefer here to benefit other makers, that's what this site is for.

Thanks,

 

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On 12/30/2018 at 4:47 PM, macstackleman said:

I have been carving foam baits for awhile now and see nothing but advantages with them!

I do not see anyone discussing foam bodies on this site!

Just curious is there something I am missing?

As buoyant as balsa, does not absorb water, easy to work with, no graining to worry about!

Just to name a few positives off the top of my head!

Love this site!

Thanks

I worked with foam for awhile, but I had trouble getting a consistent suitable surface for painting.

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Goolies, which foam are you working with?  Mac and I are referring to HDPU (High Denesity Polyurethane), if that is what you are using I have seen the pin hole that becomes visible after the first primer coat.  If that is your problem try a thinned out dip into Zinsser Bulls Eye 123.  A bright white shellac product that dries quick and seals well.  Just decant some into a pint or quart size jar and thin it down to water consistancy with DNA then dip,  and rotate.  A quick brush sanding between coats should solve your problems.

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10 minutes ago, JimP said:

Goolies, which foam are you working with?  Mac and I are referring to HDPU (High Denesity Polyurethane), if that is what you are using I have seen the pin hole that becomes visible after the first primer coat.  If that is your problem try a thinned out dip into Zinsser Bulls Eye 123.  A bright white shellac product that dries quick and seals well.  Just decant some into a pint or quart size jar and thin it down to water consistancy with DNA then dip,  and rotate.  A quick brush sanding between coats should solve your problems.

Yes, I'm also talking about 2-part polyurethane foam.  I have 8lb to 20lb densities.  I couldn't get a paintable surface with just the foam.  I also tried coating the foam with UV cure Solarez, BSI epoxy, and a quick cure polyurethane plastic.  Could not get consistent results with any of these as base coats.

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Are you forming blocks and then carving or pouring into a mold.  I have done it both ways and seem to like carving from block better.  The material is more consistent where the mixed and poured varies from pour to pour, at least that's how I remember it.  

The 8 pound sounds a little fragile for crank baits.  Did the 8 pound hold up for you?

 

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16 hours ago, JimP said:

Are you forming blocks and then carving or pouring into a mold.  I have done it both ways and seem to like carving from block better.  The material is more consistent where the mixed and poured varies from pour to pour, at least that's how I remember it.  

The 8 pound sounds a little fragile for crank baits.  Did the 8 pound hold up for you?

 

I have only poured into a supported silicone mold to get a finished body.  I have not used the 8# to produce any finished bodies yet.  Are you molding your own blocks with 2-part liquid?

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I'm buying the factory made foam blocks.  Same material just bypassing the mixing stage. Problem with my process is that the material in sheet form is the expense and availability.  Expensive to buy and everyone wants to sell full sheets which makes shipping beyond reason.  

I'm very curious about your 8 pound foam.  It's on the light side but I think it will work since it will be topped with a rigid topcoat.  When you get something built with that resin love to know how it works out.

Thanks

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