epoxy and topcoat...couple quick questions

[CoreyH]

I'm going to start using epoxy to install my hook hangers, line tie, and lip.  To get as clean a look as possible, what is the best way to remove any excess epoxy from the bait or lip once I have installed the lip and hook hangers?  Is it better to go the dry route by just wiping off with a dry cloth, or does that just smear it?

In the same line of thinking, I'm going to be dipping and hanging my baits using KBS diamond clear.  Do I clean the hook hangers right after hanging the bait up, or do I wait until the topcoat has cured?  If I wait, do I drill the topcoat out using a small bit or is another method better?

[eastman03]

I usually have the bill taped up, but away from the body of the lure.  You don't want tape under the epoxy, speaking from experience, it's hard to remove then.  I usually apply carefully to the bill/in the slot and wipe off any excess with a cloth.  Most epoxy, even 5 min, gives you some working time.  So align everything and wipe off the excess.  As far as kbs and the hook hangers, that will be answered by someone else hopefully!   Jeckyll baits on youtube uses KBS, check out her videos on how to use and store it properly.  

[Travis]

I don't tape off lips and don't wipe them.  You will get a feel of how much epoxy you will need.  Typically squeeze out will be at the back of the lip slot on the edges.  Just have  a toothpick handy and you and dab/twirl the excess away.  Helps to have the bait in a vertical position.  The topcoat will blend in just fine.

I clean hook hangers after it has dried.  Typically a small drill bit or cheap diamond burr in a dremel.

[DGagner]

I cover the lips only while painting. Before that and for final coat it's uncovered.

If I understand your hook hanger question... the loops right? I put a wire through the bottom one and the eyeloop is clear afterwards. I poke a wire through a side one(s) and they generally stay clear while drying. My experience is with 2 part epoxy and now UV resin though.

[jcromerangler]

I use small drill it to poke out hook hangers after KBS. Then use razor blade to make a nice clean cut from the back of the bait to end of hook hanger. If people are really worried that anything left over they are over analyzing the bait lol

[CoreyH]

Thanks for the help.  The baits are just for me (I'm not trying to sell anything), so I'm not looking for perfection, but I also want a clean looking bait and don't want epoxy or topcoat globbed up in areas or completely covering the hook hangers. 

[BobP]

I use an epoxy paste, Rod Bond.  Poke it into hanger and line tie holes.  Fill the lip slot with paste and push in the dry lip.  Excess will push out the back of the lip slot. Wipe it off with pieces of paper towel.  Don’t worry about minor smears of epoxy.  The top coat will cover them.  I don’t like to handle a bait with wet top coat, so I leave the coating in the hook hangers and line tie and drill it out with a micro drill bit in my Dremel tool.  It only takes a minute.

[CoreyH]

8 hours ago, BobP said:

I use an epoxy paste, Rod Bond.  Poke it into hanger and line tie holes.  Fill the lip slot with paste and push in the dry lip.  Excess will push out the back of the lip slot. Wipe it off with pieces of paper towel.  Don’t worry about minor smears of epoxy.  The top coat will cover them.  I don’t like to handle a bait with wet top coat, so I leave the coating in the hook hangers and line tie and drill it out with a micro drill bit in my Dremel tool.  It only takes a minute.

So you use the rod bond paste instead of epoxy for attaching the lip, line tie, and hook hanger?  Ever have any problems with the holding strength of the paste versus epoxy?  Does the paste flex or does it dry rock hard?

[jcromerangler]

22 hours ago, CoreyH said:

So you use the rod bond paste instead of epoxy for attaching the lip, line tie, and hook hanger?  Ever have any problems with the holding strength of the paste versus epoxy?  Does the paste flex or does it dry rock hard?

Yea @BobP I'm curious about this.....I use devcon 2 ton epoxy it is a mess but strong as an ox. Is the paste strong strong. Like I'm not going to be throwing the lip off my balsa baits am I? 

[BobP]

It cures rock hard and has advertised strength of 4000 psi, just like D2T.  Rod Bond comes in 2 types, the original slow cure (which I use) and a fast cure variety.  Since I usually make baits in batches of 4-6, the slow cure makes sense to me because it allows a work time of about an hour. 

[CoreyH]

Is this still a 2-part system?  I tried looking up Rod Bond paste and all I'm getting is a 2-part resin and hardener.  Is this the stuff?

[jcromerangler]

Thanks  @BobP Very useful info man. dv2t is too runny once you first mix. 

[BobP]

Yeah, just like all epoxy it’s a resin and hardener that you mix.

One “must do” is you need to get the adhesive you use to cover all the wood surface inside a lip slot to make it waterproof.  Totally filling the slot with paste guarantees that, besides making insertion of the lip easy and neat.

Edited February 25, 2020 by BobP

[CoreyH]

Thanks BobP.  When you said it was Rod Bond Paste, I didn't equate paste with an epoxy, so that's why I wondered if I was looking at the right stuff.  Good to know about the lips as well.  Now you've got me wondering about the one wooden crankbait I have finished (other than sealing and painting) and whether the epoxy completely covered the wooden area where the lip went.  I guess it's a little late now, but it's good to know for the future.  Luckily my other baits have been made from PVC so I don't have to worry about water intrusion.