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ravenlures

3D PRINTERS

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Our shop teacher printed one for me.  It wasn't original, I found the file on thingverse.com.  It looks like it would work pretty well, but there was a lot to consider with temps and bent plastic and all.

If you really get it figured out you could probably add some really nice details to your master prior to making a mold.

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I went to the local tech school  shop and I asked if he could make me aluminum  mold but his hands were tied because I was going to sell the lures and it conflicted with someone in another CNC company in town. So he could not do it if I was part of the class then different story. He didn't want to loose grant money. It would have been nice all I would have to pay for would be materials.

Wayne

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1 hour ago, ravenlures said:

I went to the local tech school  shop and I asked if he could make me aluminum  mold but his hands were tied because I was going to sell the lures and it conflicted with someone in another CNC company in town. So he could not do it if I was part of the class then different story. He didn't want to loose grant money. It would have been nice all I would have to pay for would be materials.

Wayne

I had several molds made for me this way but they were free.  

In regards to software.  I have been using Fusion360 and Sketchup prior to that. 

 

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On 1/29/2021 at 11:36 AM, ravenlures said:

I went to the local tech school  shop and I asked if he could make me aluminum  mold but his hands were tied because I was going to sell the lures and it conflicted with someone in another CNC company in town. So he could not do it if I was part of the class then different story. He didn't want to loose grant money. It would have been nice all I would have to pay for would be materials.

Wayne

It sounds like taking one class might be worth it.  Plus, the coeds, man.  Even after I turned 70 they still look good.

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Without CAD expertise then the 3D printer idea is going nowhere.

CAD is not such a big deal, it is just learning time, and after learning it requires regular practice so that the learning sticks.

It would be nice to see a lure body CAD library set up for TU members. If this happened then I would volunteer to create a few models for printing.

Dave

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I have a 3D printer and have never used it to print a lure body. 

First I am slow with the software but I can chuck that one out.  It gets quicker in time but for the most part I think the lack of instruction/how to for the software is the biggest issue I encounter (Fusion360 free personal use).  Essentially have to find videos on You Tube.  

 I make bass cranks that are overall simple in design.  Something like a flat sided crank (solid).  I can cut out and finish a lot of masters with slight variances in the time it takes to print one to test.  I know not as accurate as the 3D printer but in testing find some variables make little difference if you test many lures.   Visually when testing them can't tell any difference in action/performance between some variables in shape/design.

Now if doing some hollow body work with weight transfer chambers and such we enter an entirely new realm.  Changes can easily be made with the software that would be impossible or just a plain nightmare to duplicate/alter by hand.

I think many guys have a false sense of what they will end up really doing but that said overall it is a cheap thing to get into and for some can really be a positive.  I know several older guys that like woodworking but frankly are limited in regards what they can do in their shop but they can spend a lot of time designing and printing things.  Making hose adapters, tool hangers, etc..as a way to still stay involved in the hobby.

Ultimately I enjoy making lures.  I have been down the road of making masters and molding lures.  Becomes like stamping widgets and lacked any enjoyment for me.  It reminded of just buying premade blanks and painting them.  I don't think I have molded in cranks in over 12 years at this point.

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I print my lure masters with a DLP printer and even negative silicone molds. Then I cast the rest in resin.

For wood carving I plan to build myself a 2.5D small duplicator and (again) the masters 3D printed.

I am very pleased with the results from the 3d printer, although it's messy, a DLP printer gives you better finished product right off the plate.

Software wise you could use Fusion360 or Sketchup as @Travis said. I have access to 3dsMax and I use it because I am more accustomed and move more freely.

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11 minutes ago, bogdan_alex said:

I am very pleased with the results from the 3d printer, although it's messy, a DLP printer gives you better finished product right off the plate.

Excellent point I didn't mention in time.  I have a traditional filament printer budget model.  Even with all the fidgeting I have done with the printer the print is no way read for mold and requires filling/sanding, dips, etc. to get a moldable master.  

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2 hours ago, Travis said:

Excellent point I didn't mention in time.  I have a traditional filament printer budget model.  Even with all the fidgeting I have done with the printer the print is no way read for mold and requires filling/sanding, dips, etc. to get a moldable master.  

That's not just your printer - ANY 3D printer will have build lines regardless of it being a budget or high end machine - I live this stuff every day for work....  granted - some machines are more accurate and can produce finer layers than others - but even the high end machines (we have a Stratasys F170 at work which is well over 20K in price) - and you have to sand / fill parts if you want a smooth surface even with the highest resolution settings.  Just the nature of the technology.   Even other processes like SLA which uses lasers and liquid baths to form the layers needs sanding - much less - but there is always finish work.

Couple tips for those running machines with ABS.... Acetone is your friend.  You can literally "glue" two parts together with some acetone.... I use a bottle with a needle applicator and it works great.   You can also "smooth" your parts with Acetone as well.... the benefit in doing this is it melts the outer edges/layers together just a bit and will "seal" it to some degree (None of these filament machines produce a perfectly sealed part).  Its fussy to "wipe to smooth" with acetone and you'll ruin some parts getting a technique down - but if you need the strength and some sealing properties - it works pretty well.  

The one big benefit of CAD/Rapid prototyping is your lure to lure repeatability should be way more accurate than you can get with anything other than maybe CNC.  It's also great for making different sizes/mods.... I use the machien to make masters for molds.... make 1 - then scale in cad and make a few quick adjustments and you have next size up/down or slightly larger/smaller.... you can't beat the flexibility once you have a design made you like.

  J.

 

 

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1 hour ago, mark poulson said:

Can you print a lure in the vertical position, so the rings actually add to the turbulence as the water passes over it?

 

You can print the bait  however you would like to as easy to rotate its position in the software in the 3D field.  You will need to add print support for any larger overhangs or 1.5 hrs into print may find you have to start over as the print shifts.

The rings aren't bad and wouldn't be transferred through with most top coats but you would visually see it.  Here is an example of the finish I might get with printing masters.  Some other issues with ghosting through the exterior wall of the print but that is more of an issue with the parameters selected before printing.  Nothing too difficult to smooth out and as mentioned can dip in acetone or other products to "melt" a smooth finish if using ABS filament.  I have only used PLA (cheap readily available) and what many start out with.  Even then different brands of filament are better than others in results.

DSC_0768.thumb.JPG.a79ed32c1c1688b742541f441548baa3.JPG

 

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7 hours ago, Travis said:

You can print the bait  however you would like to as easy to rotate its position in the software in the 3D field.  You will need to add print support for any larger overhangs or 1.5 hrs into print may find you have to start over as the print shifts.

The rings aren't bad and wouldn't be transferred through with most top coats but you would visually see it.  Here is an example of the finish I might get with printing masters.  Some other issues with ghosting through the exterior wall of the print but that is more of an issue with the parameters selected before printing.  Nothing too difficult to smooth out and as mentioned can dip in acetone or other products to "melt" a smooth finish if using ABS filament.  I have only used PLA (cheap readily available) and what many start out with.  Even then different brands of filament are better than others in results.

DSC_0768.thumb.JPG.a79ed32c1c1688b742541f441548baa3.JPG

 

That frog looks really good!  Very nice work.  

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Can't take any credit for the frog as simple download.  I bought the printer for the kids and well they could care less. 

All I have designed are different adapters for the shop and few prototypes for projects and purely ends up being just goofing around learning the software, etc... 

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8 hours ago, Travis said:

Can't take any credit for the frog as simple download.  I bought the printer for the kids and well they could care less. 

All I have designed are different adapters for the shop and few prototypes for projects and purely ends up being just goofing around learning the software, etc... 

I get it.  Being willing to try and learn a new skill takes courage, especially one like new software.  

Good luck.

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One more tip for ABS, hope I can find a good explanation : put some acetone in a pot/jar and suspend your printed lure over, without touching the acetone. Close the pot/jar and heat it a bit ( 60deg Celsius would be fairly optimal ). It would make the printing lines vanish and your lure shiny.

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