Jump to content
Icehockeyplayer

Spinnerbait spacer beads

Recommended Posts

I use 1/8" and 4mm beads on small to average size spinnerbaits with .040" wire or thinner. I prefer 1/8" beads on small spinnerbaits (1/4 oz) as they are a bit smaller than 4mm. I use the 4 mm on typical 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz spinnerbaits.  For 3/8 oz spinnerbaits, I use 1/8" beads if I have them otherwise I just go with 4mm.

You have to check the hole size in the bead and make sure the spinnerbait wire will go though it. The hole size can vary depending on seller. The hole size on the 4 mm beads I bought is 1.2mm or  .047". You will need bigger beads for heavy spinnerbaits with .051" wire and possibly .045".  The 4 mm beads I bought usually slide on .045" but sometimes they don't. There can be small variations in the hole size in a given pack so don't cut it too close.

For larger spacing like separating 2 willows blades,  I use spacer sleeves like Jig Man or clear spacer tubing.

Edited by JD_mudbug
Link to post
Share on other sites

On the blade arm of the spinnerbait wire, I usually put a bead before and after the clevis to give the clevis a bearing to spin on.The front bead helps the clevis to keep spinning if the bait goes through lake snot. I also usually put a bead after the spacer sleeves and before the loop the swivel goes on. I just do this in case I am not perfect in bending my loop. The last bead prevents the spacer sleeve from potentially sliding into the loop.

Pic - I spaced out the components to make them easier to see. Order put on the arm:  bead, clevis with front blade, bead, spacer sleeve(s), bead, end of wire loop with swivel and rear blade.

The beads on this bait are 1/8". The frame is a compact hidden weight LPO frame.

Full pic of the bait is in this post.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/37610-blade-weight/

spinnerbait arm.jpg

Edited by JD_mudbug
Link to post
Share on other sites

I sort of figured that was what you were thinking, but wasn't sure, lol. I thought there might be a very slim chance you had a weird way to build spinnerbaits and was curious as to how it could be done without at least one bead behind the clevis to prevent the spacer sleeve from wearing through the end of the clevis.

I never thought of beads as spacers until I started targeting pike. On pike/musky spinnerbaits, alot of companies do not use spacer sleeves or tubing. They just use a whole bunch of beads as spacers. I don't really like the look of 6 beads in a row. Maybe it's marketing to make them appear more similar to bucktails. 

I have made some with extra beads for pike/musky just to throw in some more obnoxious color. I have not noticed those baits performing any better than those using sleeves.

 

 

spinnerbait arm2.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, JD_mudbug said:

On the blade arm of the spinnerbait wire, I usually put a bead before and after the clevis to give the clevis a bearing to spin on.The front bead helps the clevis to keep spinning if the bait goes through lake snot. I also usually put a bead after the spacer sleeves and before the loop the swivel goes on. I just do this in case I am not perfect in bending my loop. The last bead prevents the spacer sleeve from potentially sliding into the loop.

Pic - I spaced out the components to make them easier to see. Order put on the arm:  bead, clevis with front blade, bead, spacer sleeve(s), bead, end of wire loop with swivel and rear blade.

The beads on this bait are 1/8". The frame is a compact hidden weight LPO frame.

Full pic of the bait is in this post.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/37610-blade-weight/

spinnerbait arm.jpg

This is how I do it as well with hollow beads and leader sleeves. I will not use a plastic bead for metal to rotate on as it just is a bad idea.

 

Allen

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

What diameter/type of wire do you use?  I've got some .032" SS wire that holds its shape pretty well (not like lock wire).  I don't pour lead yet, so I'd be making spinner forms sort of like those in the pictures I attached.  Is .032" too small for bass?  This is new territory for me.

Spinner wire.JPG

Inline spinner wire.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use .032 on 1/4 oz and some 3/8 oz compact frame spinnerbaits for bass.  

.035" wire on large frame 3/8 oz baits and most 1/2 oz spinnerbaits.   

.040" wire on 3/4 oz spinnerbaits and some 1/2 oz for targeting pike.   

.051" on 1 oz and heavier spinnerbaits. I only have a couple of .062 wire spinnerbaits for pike/musky because that wire is such a pain to bend. 

The longer the wire and/or the heavier the head, I lean to the thicker wire. The more compact the frame and lighter the head, I lean to the thinner wire. 

On a straight in-line spinner, you could get away with .032 on 1/2 oz bass bait. Less flexing of the wire on an in-line spinner.

As an alternative to pouring lead, you could get some of the LPO unpainted spinnerbait heads. I like the minn-o-spin, the signature spin, and the hidden weight heads. Those heads have good hooks, Mustads and Gamies. 

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Minn-O-Spin-Spinnerbaits?page=1

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Jigs-Spinnerbaits-Buzzbaits/Spinnerbait-Heads/Bass-Spinnerbait-Heads?page=1

 

Edited by JD_mudbug
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...
Top