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chachybaby

Stainless Steel Snare Wire (20 gauge) for wire through balsa baits

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Hi,

starting out building bass baits, has anyone used SS Snare Wire (20gauge) for building wire through harness? It comes on a roll.

if not or is too soft, where is everyone buying their stainless steel wire (0.032, 20 gauge or what size)?  looking to make balsa bass baits in 2 to 3 inch size.

thanks in advance

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I would guess that using stainless snare wire would work, although not ideal, but it would work. What I like to use for through wire and for twisting is WCS .041" stainless wire. Also, are pike or musky present in the waters you fish for bass? That could help you determine what diameter wire you want to use. If pike, musky, or tiger musky are present, you may want to scale up to .041 or .051 rather than .032. The WCS stuff that you can purchase on Amazon come on 1/4 lb rolls and 1 lb rolls, so you can decide how much you want if you just want to try it. I don't know a ton about stainless snare wire, but thats my 2 cents on that topic. JD_mudbug is going to be here pretty quick (I would assume so, he replies to most everything), he knows a lot more than I do haha..

 

Braden

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I am not 100% sure if they sell their wire pre straightened, but there are some good ways to straighten it that I use. If you watch some of the lure making YouTube channels such as Marling Baits, you may have seen him straighten out stainless .041" wire by pulling a 1-2ft long piece, (depends on how big of a lure you're through wiring) bends a loop in one side, and chucks that end in his drill and then he clamps the other end in his vise, or just clamps it to a table or something where it wont slip out. Then he twists it with the drill, and it straightens it out.  Let me know your thoughts on this.

 

Braden

Edited by RiverSmallieGuy
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Honestly if you are building bass lures it doesn’t take much. Never used cotter pins but have used through wire, eye screws and twisted wire eyes

through wire in my opinion is best if you are worried the wood itself is going to fail. I only ever do this by special requests never for my personal lures 

eye screws work fine but it’s a matter of appropriate size according to the species you are fishing. It’s also a good Idea to harden the wood with something like thinned Etex so it penetrates into the wood. This will help prevent tear out. Also secure them with epoxy 

Wire twist eyes same principles as eye screws use appropriate gauge of wire. Harden the wood. Use an appropriate pilot hole with epoxy

eye screws and twist eyes will hold better if installed on an angle so the it’s not a straight pull on them

I build lures mostly for larger species like salmon, pike and lake trout. I use .092 stainless steel eye screws 1 1/2 - 2 inch long. Most of my lures are resin pour but I use the same for wood too

I have lifted fish up by the lure with they shaking up to around 30lbs without failure 

Bass pick any method you please they are not that tough 

that is my dumb red neck opinion anyway 

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There are plenty of posters here with way more knowledge than me. Before using TU, I primarily learned from failures, of which there were many.  Having a bait break on a fish can sting for a long time.

Some recent posts with good info on wire.

https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/38342-hardware-for-wooden-hardbaits/

https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/36632-wire-size/

https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/38344-cotter-pins-vs-screw-eyes-vs-twist-wires-vs-through-wire/

I use  stainless safety lock wire in .041 for typical bass baits like a 2.5 square bill  and .051 for most everything bigger than that. I go up to .062 on larger lures 2.5 oz and up.

I no longer use anything under .041 for hardbaits. I don’t think anything thinner than that would hold up to pike or musky.  20 gauge is .036”? I think snare wire might be more pliable than safety wire. You may get a pike landed  but the lure may not survive if a wire eye gets tweaked and you have to bend it back. Hard baits are not like an inline spinner that can just be re-shafted. I have had a few baits with .035 that were one pike and done.  .035 is fine for small baits where there is no pike or musky.

Malin and Wire & Cable Specialties are the 2 most common suppliers of safety wire. You can find it on Amazon,  McMaster Carr,  and Grainger.  The price varies from site to site.

Yes, you can buy straightened wire. Sometimes it is called wire shaft(s).  Sometimes you find it under wire forms or pre-cut stainless wire. You can find it with a closed loop, open loop or no loop.  LPO, Janns, Barlows, and Musky Shop carry it. You can find it on eBay and Amazon too. This wire is not annealed and is stiff and harder to bend.

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/search?keywords=wire%20shaft&page=1

https://www.muskyshop.com/collections/lure-parts-components/products/components-lure-building-pre-cut-stainless-wire-12-count

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ALL- thanks a lot, appreciate all the advice!!  I will look into the videos provided and links to the parts for purchase for my way forward.

Agree that after a few pike that snare wire (seems soft) will need to be rebent to shape and as a result lose its strength. 

I can't seem to find videos on building bass baits using twisted wire method, I will continue to search.

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5 minutes ago, chachybaby said:

ALL- thanks a lot, appreciate all the advice!!  I will look into the videos provided and links to the parts for purchase for my way forward.

Agree that after a few pike that snare wire (seems soft) will need to be rebent to shape and as a result lose its strength. 

I can't seem to find videos on building bass baits using twisted wire method, I will continue to search.

You don’t need videos just build it

There is so much that is in videos on the internet. Honestly a lot of the YouTube builders are not doing anything fancy 

Just come up with an idea and go for it

I learnt more from trial and error they I ever would of the internet 

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Engineered Angler, Marling Baits, TreysArt, zimmtex use twist eyes in some their builds. Engineered Angler has a bunch of vids on twist wire eyes.

I wing most of my builds. I test the lure after sealing with hooks that have points bent over. I hot glue or tape any diving lip in temporarily. That way I can try different lips and adjust ballast if the lure is a dud. Once the lure works, I paint it. 

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That's what I usually do. Fit it with tape on the part of the lip that goes in the slot plus a piece of tape on the backside of e lip to the body. If the lip is aluminum, I use some hot glue where the lip comes out of the body. The glue peels off with an Xacto knife. I have lost a couple of aluminum lips with just tape.

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On 2/9/2022 at 8:35 PM, Hillbilly voodoo said:

You don’t need videos just build it

There is so much that is in videos on the internet. Honestly a lot of the YouTube builders are not doing anything fancy 

Just come up with an idea and go for it

I learnt more from trial and error they I ever would of the internet 

Agree. I started messing around with what I had and this 20ga snare wire. Thru wire glued together with Devcon 2ton "home" version epoxy.

20220219_110924.jpg

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