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Seele

Soft plastic mould made from resin

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Hi,
Has anyone ever printed a soft plastic mould directly from resin?
Is it worth to buy the high temp resin, or is it enough to use normal basic UV resin?

Does the soft plastic stick to the cured resin?

If not possible has anyone made negative moulds from resin and poured them out with ceramic plaster or Alumilite? How to demould the resin after pouring? It cannot be melted out like FDM printed moulds.

 

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I have a few molds I’ve printed out of resin and fdm. The resin is much nicer than the fdm at a higher cost. No later lines and no warping issues. If your going to use resin get the syriatch sculpt. It’s the only really consumer option that can handle the heat. There are others but they are a lot more expensive.

D07A2070-D52D-4123-B331-A29C00E7F008.jpeg

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No heat problems with anycubic standard resin at 330ºF

The real problem with UV resin molds is that they tends to warp due to curing shrinkage (the bigger the mold, the bigger the warping) and you need to apply much pressure to get an optimal mold enclosure, which can result in an eventually mold break…

This is how is working for me so far

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I am new to resin printing so this is me guessing, but I had anticipated that flatness was going to be an issue

I wonder if you could dose the sculpt resin with some tenacious, maintaining most of the heat resistance and get some flexibility to fix the warping.

I don't think pinning the mold to together during the cure would help.

One possibility is the speed of the cure it stands to reason that as you blast one side of the mold with UV the cross linking would put an internal stress on the part since it does shrink as it cures. I would not be at all surprised if the curing resin acted like ceramics that have to cool very slowly and evenly after they are fired or they crack.

Pull the UV back and rotate the mold like on a lure spinner the slower and more even the cure should help with warping.

I had anticipated having to touch the mating surfaces to a glass plate with 800 grit paper to make the surfaces decently flat 

 

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Has anyone had any luck printing out a positive master and make negative molds with it?  I’ve had some okay results making molds from FDM prints in plaster of paris, fast setting two part resin, and two part silicone. I’m pretty limited due to lack of skills in Fusion. Still can’t beat aluminum imho though. 

Edited by Fishermanbt
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2 hours ago, Fishermanbt said:

Has anyone had any luck printing out a positive master and make negative molds with it?  I’ve had some okay results making molds from FDM prints in plaster of paris, fast setting two part resin, and two part silicone. I’m pretty limited due to lack of skills in Fusion. Still can’t beat aluminum imho though. 


Of course!

You can always print a master and use it as a master… better results than using FDM…

Of course, nothing I know can beat aluminium 

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6 hours ago, aulrich said:

I am new to resin printing so this is me guessing, but I had anticipated that flatness was going to be an issue

I wonder if you could dose the sculpt resin with some tenacious, maintaining most of the heat resistance and get some flexibility to fix the warping.

I don't think pinning the mold to together during the cure would help.

One possibility is the speed of the cure it stands to reason that as you blast one side of the mold with UV the cross linking would put an internal stress on the part since it does shrink as it cures. I would not be at all surprised if the curing resin acted like ceramics that have to cool very slowly and evenly after they are fired or they crack.

Pull the UV back and rotate the mold like on a lure spinner the slower and more even the cure should help with warping.

I had anticipated having to touch the mating surfaces to a glass plate with 800 grit paper to make the surfaces decently flat 

 

 Sanding will not help to close the mold, warping exceed the work of a sandpaper…

If you are talking about how flat and smooth is the internal side of the mold, I think your better option is making some trials with different inclinations… usually about 40 or 45 dgrees works well… in adition, you can learn something about arctan angle…

Flat printing helps with this but you put a lot of tension in the FEP film

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11 hours ago, Da_linx said:

No heat problems with anycubic standard resin at 330ºF

The real problem with UV resin molds is that they tends to warp due to curing shrinkage (the bigger the mold, the bigger the warping) and you need to apply much pressure to get an optimal mold enclosure, which can result in an eventually mold break…

This is how is working for me so far

Did you make sure to sand down the elephants foot on the side of the mold that sits on the print bed? 

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12 hours ago, Seele said:

I didn't have any burning problems. Did you pour that hot?

They are developing a clear Sculpt at the moment, this will be also very interesting.

Poor choice of words... I meant the amount of resin used. A lot of my molds were using more than 3/4 a bottle of resin making it much more expensive then fdm.

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1 hour ago, Hand Crafted Angling said:

Did you make sure to sand down the elephants foot on the side of the mold that sits on the print bed? 

I am from Spain and I am a pain with the language, so I am not sure if I am catching you…

I don’t have elephant foot since I print the mold angled with supports with the external part of the mold orientated to the building plate so I don’t have to worry about that side… do you print with the internal side looking the plate and then sanding the support marks? How does it works?

Anyway, printing flat on the building plate (which is the way you can have elephant foot) would probably break the FEP in the long run, with all the problems and risk that this involves… I learned it the hard way with my first printer… :wacko:

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21 hours ago, Da_linx said:

I am from Spain and I am a pain with the language, so I am not sure if I am catching you…

I don’t have elephant foot since I print the mold angled with supports with the external part of the mold orientated to the building plate so I don’t have to worry about that side… do you print with the internal side looking the plate and then sanding the support marks? How does it works?

Anyway, printing flat on the building plate (which is the way you can have elephant foot) would probably break the FEP in the long run, with all the problems and risk that this involves… I learned it the hard way with my first printer… :wacko:

I print it vertically directly on the build plate 

A91BC1EB-C02F-4823-9568-F2D55B79A0C4.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Hand Crafted Angling said:

I print it vertically directly on the build plate 

A91BC1EB-C02F-4823-9568-F2D55B79A0C4.jpeg

Ah!!!!!

Ok!!!!

That’s not much tension to the FEP and you save resin without supports…

I tried a time ago with bad results but I will give it a try with my new printer…

Just I will be more patient… LOL

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19 hours ago, Da_linx said:

Ah!!!!!

Ok!!!!

That’s not much tension to the FEP and you save resin without supports…

I tried a time ago with bad results but I will give it a try with my new printer…

Just I will be more patient… LOL

I think you would solve most of your warping issues with this method too the supports can cause layer shifts

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1 hour ago, Hand Crafted Angling said:

I think you would solve most of your warping issues with this method too the supports can cause layer shifts

I will definetly try it with one of my smaller molds and I will compare them new and old…

Make sense… the tension is applied to all the surface in a vertical orientation preventing the mold to bend… and real resin saving without the supports 

The only con I can advance is that the tension is always in the same portion of the FEP putting more stress on it, but in a smaller surface…

I think my new printer could do it good this way…

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I usually print a male and a female half of the mold… one with holes and one with cilinders to fit… and I see you print two female molds…

I don’t know how my cilinders will print in this orientation, but is Nothing you can not fix printing cilinders appart…

Thanks for the tips!!!!

I entered this post trying to give some help and I have ended up receiving some… people is awesome LOL

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22 hours ago, Da_linx said:

I usually print a male and a female half of the mold… one with holes and one with cilinders to fit… and I see you print two female molds…

I don’t know how my cilinders will print in this orientation, but is Nothing you can not fix printing cilinders appart…

Thanks for the tips!!!!

I entered this post trying to give some help and I have ended up receiving some… people is awesome LOL

I used to do it the way you are on my fdm. Best way is 2female haves and I’m using 1/4” bolts to hold it together.

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4 hours ago, Hand Crafted Angling said:

I used to do it the way you are on my fdm. Best way is 2female haves and I’m using 1/4” bolts to hold it together.

Makes sense in this orientation…

I will try and decide what method fits better the way I work to get the better enclosure and the faster system 

Thank you a lot!

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My printer is in my basement where the temperature is 18-21c  or 64-71 freedom year round. As I understand it the higher end resins like sculpt like it over 30c. do you guys worry about that or do you have your printer in a warmer place than mine. 

I am just finishing up a heater to go in my printer.   

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38 minutes ago, aulrich said:

My printer is in my basement where the temperature is 18-21c  or 64-71 freedom year round. As I understand it the higher end resins like sculpt like it over 30c. do you guys worry about that or do you have your printer in a warmer place than mine. 

I am just finishing up a heater to go in my printer.   

I have mine in a enclosure. Just a crealety branded grow tent. I threw a mini space heater in there hooked up to a thermostat outlet I had left over from my fishtank days. Works great just don't leave a setup like this with no one home lol.

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