aulrich Posted July 24, 2022 Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 So I have been fighting with replicating a lazy Ike type lure, a lot of the issue were related to 3d printing and I did eventually get around them and finally got one to swim but it was barely buoyant, I could have been over hooked #2s on a 88mm (~3.2freedomunits) my hook supply is a bit sparse at the moment :). For some reason I decided to remove the ballast and it still swam. so when you are making a floater diver how to you set you starting ballast weight. Also what would be the signs of instability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 Weight choice has a lot to do with goals related to action, rate of rise/neutral pause, and stability at higher speeds as well As with many things when building hard baits there is no set answer but instead it’s a matter of finding the correct combination factors to achieve the action you have in mind Personally I have built enough baits I can make a really good guess or even design a bait where I plan to use no ballast at all. But float testing a lure is a really good way to figure out a good ballast weight. Or as I have mentioned in past threads tape or elastic band your ballast to your un finished but sealed lure and give it a test run. Try different ballast weights till you get what you are looking for 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flaswimbaiter Posted July 31, 2022 Report Share Posted July 31, 2022 I use hot glue To attach weights when testing. It sounds like the buoyancy of your resin is spot on that’s why you didn’t need any weight. If you can add some micro balloons that would make it more buoyant and then you can move the weights like hillbilly suggested to get the desired effect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
