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Jtb

Clear resin pours

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I'm wanting to make a few baits that are clear...using my existing molds...has anyone used a product like alumilite clear slow for casting glides or cranks?..looking for the best product to use ...tried search feature but keep hitting clear coat threads

Thanks

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Going on my limited understanding, I don't think you will find a clear resin that will work as you think since resins are are more dense than water. But I think there could be a way around that problem. 

Roto Molding.

 

You will need a mold without sprue or vents. Fill that mold with enough resin  that will give you enough wall thickness for strength but enough air packet for buoyancy.    You then pout that mold into a 2 axis spinner that slowly spins the mold on both the x and 4 axis and just like a lure tuner spreads the resin smoothly over the top of a lure the spinner puts an even coat on the inside of the mold.  I would think you need a resin with a fairly long pot time Since you will likely need to pour the dose into the mold, degas the resin then mount it in the spinner with enough time to created the even coating. there are probably more issues but IDK.

 

Another option is resin 3d printing  lookup gulfstream outdoors on YouTube to see what can be made. it is a whole new can of worms 

 

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Aulrich appreciate the reply.....i am actually going for clear sinking baits to begin  ...covering wire harness with foil...I know the clear resin is used in some saltwater lure applications but those are bulky and unlikely to hit obstructions like rocks or docks..my concern is shear especially with wire harness...will the bait fracture upon 1 impact or will it be able to take a decent beating lol..

I have already thought ahead about being able to make the baits neutrally bouyant or float in future versions by doing a "laminate" of foam on top or even a 2 part mold with cavity molded in and halves epoxied together after casting...forgot to mention..product I'm looking at spg is 1.05 so should not be too hard to make neutral 

Thanks

 

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8 hours ago, Jtb said:

Aulrich appreciate the reply.....i am actually going for clear sinking baits to begin  ...covering wire harness with foil...I know the clear resin is used in some saltwater lure applications but those are bulky and unlikely to hit obstructions like rocks or docks..my concern is shear especially with wire harness...will the bait fracture upon 1 impact or will it be able to take a decent beating lol..

I have already thought ahead about being able to make the baits neutrally bouyant or float in future versions by doing a "laminate" of foam on top or even a 2 part mold with cavity molded in and halves epoxied together after casting...forgot to mention..product I'm looking at spg is 1.05 so should not be too hard to make neutral 

Thanks

 

If you did a two piece and left an air pocket on the inside to make it buoyant how would you glue them together? I would think that even with epoxy that it would make it cloudy. 

do you think foil coverd foil might work? Just trying to come up with ideas.

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2 hours ago, Flaswimbaiter said:

If you did a two piece and left an air pocket on the inside to make it buoyant how would you glue them together? I would think that even with epoxy that it would make it cloudy. 

do you think foil coverd foil might work? Just trying to come up with ideas.

It would be simple enough to pour in layers no need for glue 

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I think guys have pulled off two plastic pours so clear low with a micro balloon  top layer or a two part foaming resin. I have never done that so I can't say. I have seen lure with large hollow inserts but they were soft plastics so not so much for buoyancy but for using less plastic, so maybe a small vial made of a thin walled clear plastic tube.

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Flaswimbaiter said:

If you did a two piece and left an air pocket on the inside to make it buoyant how would you glue them together? I would think that even with epoxy that it would make it cloudy. 

do you think foil coverd foil might work? Just trying to come up with ideas.

Should not be any more of a visible seam than say thermo weld or sonic weld on normal  blanks 

 

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