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Flaswimbaiter

Cutting lip slots

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I have been converting some resin baits into wakes and crackdowns, so they were poured without the lip slot. I am really struggling to get the slots strait. I am using my bandsaw but it usually comes out crooked and by the time I fix it it’s too wide or just a mess.

Any suggestions? 

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Flat or round type of bait will help. One saw that really helped me was my radial saw for round lures I would cut them top down or bottom up. flat I would make a jig for my table saw and set the angle for what I needed. I also looked around for the right blade for the saws with the right kerf of thickness of the cut to meet the the lip size. Along time I had a blade made to the right thickness of 3/16" with a flat cut and it still is working great. Well worth the cost back then $60.00.  Just use that head of yours and figure it out and come up with a jig to hold your lure. 

Wayne

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V-block would help but also forget the band saw unless you have a very expensive one, the blade wobbles and moves with the slightest pressure.

I personally use a precise dovetail saw, you will need a bit of practice.

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Several ways to do it. Just really boils down the the skill set of the individual doing the work.

A dremel with a cut off wheel is used by some, a dovetail saw, back saw, myriad of Japanese style saws, coping saw, etc.. all can be used relatively easily.

Since you mentioned bandsaw and are comfortable using it stick with it.   Even the cheapest saws can be set up to cut perpendicular to the table.  A properly tensioned sharp blade riding properly on the crown of the wheels with blade guides set properly cuts straight.    Some bandsaws may need a little tweaking but nothing too difficult to do.

Wayne is correct you will need a jig.  Easy enough as you just mold your current mold.    On a bandsaw once you have  molded one of the original mold halves you can use it to cradle the bait so you can easily position to cut the lip slot properly and will allow proper bait registration and repeatable results.   

Table saw, radial arm saw, router, etc.. all can be set up to safely perform the task if one so desires.

 

 

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I work in wood and cut lip slots while the baits are still “square”, but have been given some poured baits to assemble.  I used a thick rubber band stretched over the bait’s nose to find the right lip position and cut the slot with either a Dremel or a saw.  If the slot ends up a little ragged, no problem because I mount lips with Rod Bond paste epoxy which doesn’t run.  If the slot is REALLY large and rough (when I have to cut out a damaged lip) I use an epoxy putty log.  My basic point is that there aren't many lip slot problems that the right kind of epoxy can’t fix.

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On 8/3/2022 at 9:55 AM, BobP said:

I work in wood and cut lip slots while the baits are still “square”, but have been given some poured baits to assemble.  I used a thick rubber band stretched over the bait’s nose to find the right lip position and cut the slot with either a Dremel or a saw.  If the slot ends up a little ragged, no problem because I mount lips with Rod Bond paste epoxy which doesn’t run.  If the slot is REALLY large and rough (when I have to cut out a damaged lip) I use an epoxy putty log.  My basic point is that there aren't many lip slot problems that the right kind of epoxy can’t fix.

When I design a bait to have a lip I cut it before carving, these are converted baits. That rubber band method sounds like a good idea, I am going to try that. 

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The rubber band method is only needed for fat/round baits like a square bill.  If the bait has flat sides, you can cut a slot without any tricks.  I use a thick rubber band, the kind used to package celery, etc in a supermarket.  Stretch it over the front of the bait until a side of the band looks like the correct angle and alignment, the mark it with a Sharpie and cut the slot.

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