Lake Trolling Tactics, Flat Lining for Trout

[Uncle Wes]

What do I consider flat lining? Trolling without the use of downriggers.

Phase 1: Lake Homework and Preparation

1) Read all current and past fishing reports that I can find including magazine articles, newspaper articles and all literature I can find on that particular lake.

2) I will get a map of the lake and study it so I know the lake. I will look for in-lets, out-lets, small streams, points, ledges, islands, sheer cliffs, coves, and anything with structure.

3) I will call the local tackle shops, campgrounds, resorts and get current conditions of the lake and there fishing report and find out the color combinations of fly's, lures, bait and etc, that seem to be successful. I will also post questions on regional fishing websites requesting information. Check weather forecasts, and moon phases.

4) I will do research on what ever species of trout I'm targeting. Different species have different characteristics. Water temp preferred, oxygen needs and etc.

5) I will put all this information in a folder and start keeping all the information I accumulate in this folder.

Phase 2: Breaking a Lake into Sections

Before you start into this phase of your game plan, there are a couple of things to take into consideration. How long are you going to be fishing this lake? One day, Two days, Seven days? How big is the Lake? My rule of thumb for myself is, that I can cover 1500 acre lake in a day or 8 to 9 hours. If I'm fishing a larger lake, I generally will take the appropriate amount of time off work to make it worth my while.

1) How do I come to a conclusion of where to start. That?s where my research comes into play. I will generally start in the area of the reported hot spot. If that information is not available I will most often start where the streams or creeks come into the lake.

2) Now I will most often break a lake into 5 areas the North, South, East, West, and the Center.

3) Now for the sake of argument let's say I start on the West side. That is most often the side of the lake that will receive the sun first.

Either producing hatches first or warming the water and causing some activity.

4) I use a Bottom Line Sidefinder, which helps me eliminate a lot of water fast. Now I generally will work an "S" pattern from 8' to 20'(The 20' depends on the depth of the lake, sometimes I'll go to 40') I will work it first one way and make my turn and come back down the same troll the opposite way. I'm covering that same stretch of water twice, sometimes it will make a difference which way you are trolling. If I'm not marking fish or getting strikes I'll move on. Now if I'm getting strikes or putting fish in the boat I will keep working that area until it's dead.

Now what ever end of the lake I'm at be it North or South I will repeat that process and work that area. Then I will move to the East side of the lake and repeat the process. Then I will end up at the final end and will repeat the process. Now I've come to one area left the center, I will repeat that process. Again if your getting strikes or putting fish in the boat continue to work that area until it is dead. Ok, so now I've worked the whole lake.

My next move is to work it from shore to shore or East to West then West to East. Effectively covering the whole area in both directions. Then I will repeat the process going from North to South then South to North. Always using the "S" pattern. (What I'm saying, is I'm covering the same stretch of water twice)

5) If I'm not marking fish, I will move on and not waste my time trolling dead water. So sometimes I might only make one pass in my trolling plan.

6) Now like everything, there are some exceptions on the 8'-20' rule. I will work ledges hard especially if it is around a creek in-let. Or maybe a fallen tree in the lake, or brush. Any place that will provide cover for the trout.

7) Always keep your eye's on the lake, take mental notes i.e.. are the fish feeding up top? This will help you judge your depth to troll. Remember fish can look up but not down.

Now always remember the areas you studied on your map and research. In-lets, Out-lets, Coves, Ledges, Sheer Cliffs, Points, Islands, and so on. These area's are always a point of interest, especially when nothing else is working. Now when you come to the areas in your trolling plan don't hesitate to put a little extra work in these area's.

These are generalizations and I'm just sharing how I break a lake up. As you put more time on the water or a certain lake you will find your honey holes that will always produce. This is just a way for you to discover them.

Phase 3: Trolling Techniques and Tactics:

Basic Trolling Techniques:

I will start out with the basics and then go over the how to on trolling the different area's and highlights of the lake. Again these are my personal preferences and generalizations.

1) When working a lake I prefer the "S" pattern, for a couple of reasons. It gives you the action of heading into shore and away from shore. Which is when I generally pick up most of my strikes.

I use a long "S" pattern and not a tight one. I generally have 60-100' of line behind me and usually someone else is with me. You can just imagine the mess that would make if your lines cross up.

The second reason is that it creates erratic movement of your lures. When you turn into the side one lure is on, it slows down, sinks, and flutters. The other one will speed up and rise. Most of the time this is the action you need to draw that strike.

2) Speed is also a factor. I will never stay at the same speed. I will speed up and slow down, I will always, always, alternate my speed. There are times that I have found that I might be to slow or to fast. By using this method it also helps me key in on the ideal speed and then I won't wonder to far from that. But I will increase and decrease my speed, this also creates erratic movement of your lure.

3) I will also employ another little trick that I've picked up along the way. And you will have to experiment with it. Because some day's it works one way and other day's just the opposite. When I get a strike I will turn into the side of the boat that got the strike ie.. If my rod is on the left side and I get a strike I will turn to that side. On other day's it works just the opposite. You will know after a few strikes. I have used this tactic for the past 12 years and it has produced quite well.

Trolling Tactics:

1) Ledges: Now I have 3 way's that I approach this area. I will list these in no particular order. I will generally use all 3 of these tactics.

A. I will find a ledge and work it following the contour, skirting the very edge right where it falls off. First one way, then the other.

B. I will also employ the tactic of trolling in my "S" pattern using the edge of the ledge as the center of my "S" pattern. So I'm actually covering the area before the drop off and the drop off area. First in one direction, and then the other.

C. Another approach to working a ledge, is to use the very edge of the ledge, where it drops off, as the beginning and end of your "S" pattern. Working it first in one direction and then the other. So you are trolling right up to it, then making your turn.

2) Coves: Because coves vary in depth and size you have to adapt these tactics to fit the situation. I will try and cover each situation as I have encountered them. Each lake I have worked seems to have it's own unique situation.

A. If the cove is big enough I will enter it and follow the contour of the cove working my standard "S" pattern, from 8'-20'. First in one direction and then the other. If it's not big enough to employ the "S" pattern, I will follow the contour all the way around. First one way then the other.

B. Splitting the cove. Again depending on size. I will employ the "S" pattern when ever possible. I will enter the cove work it half way and head out thru the center. Then come back thru the opposite way. I will work both halves in this manner. Making sure I have covered it completely.

C. Now let's say the cove is to small to go into. You can still work this area. I will employ the standard "S" pattern right at the opening. First one way then the other.

D. Splitting the small cove that is to small to enter. I will again troll the opening to the center and veer out at the middle. Then turn around and work it the opposite way. I will work both halves this way.

3) Sheer Cliffs or Drop Offs: When I'm talking Sheer Cliff Area's and Drop Offs, I mean where you see that there is a cliff or drop off that just goes straight down from the bank.

A. I will troll in as close as possible and work my "S" pattern first on way and then another. Now the question is how far out do you work it? This is a judgment call on your part, I will generally go out about 150' from the cliff. I break that 150' into 50' intervals always working my "S" pattern first one way then the other. It amounts to about 6 passes.

4) Points: Points are always an interesting area to work, because a lot of times you will find a combination of situations. Sheer drop offs, ledges, and gradual depth changes. You will have to adapt to each situation. But here are the basics.

A. I will start my run at the very beginning of the point working my "S" pattern and go all the way around it. First one direction then the other.

B. Splitting the point. I do this the same way I work the cove. I will start at the beginning of the run and break off at the very tip of the point and come back into it and work it in the opposite direction. I will do this on both sides.

5) Islands: There are a lot of lakes that have islands of some sort in them. Again each one of these seems to have unique situations. You could encounter many different situations from points, sheer cliffs, coves and etc. But for the sake of argument let's just stick to the basics and assume there are no other characteristics in this scenario.

A. I will work an island like I would any other feature. Using my standard "S" pattern trolling my 8"-20" scenario. First in one direction then in the other. Again if I'm not marking fish in one direction or not seeing any feeding action, I will most often just work it one way. Another judgment call on my part.

6) Inlets and Outlets: As I have stated earlier if I can't find any reports or info on a lake I like to start near inlet streams, rivers, creeks. And most often you will encounter ledges in these areas. Usually these areas are rich in oxygen and washes bugs, worms and etc into the lake. And trout will hang out waiting for an easy meal. But let's keep this simple and say there are no other characteristics.

A. As always I will work my standard "S" pattern. I will troll out as far as 60' from these inlets. I will break it up into 3, 20' intervals out from the inlet. My first pass I will not go into water shallower than 8' (Just a personal preference). Then I will work these 3 sections once in each direction.

B. Now if there is a large opening where these stream and etc. empty into the lake I will work them just as I would a cove.

C. Working the outlet is also a great place to pick up a few. Reason being, that this is where the lake empties out and washes feed into these area's. I will work this area basically the same as I do inlets except I will start out about 60' and break it into the same 3 sections and work my way into the outlet. So instead of working my way from the closet point in, I work from the furthest point out, and then in. Now if I can get into the outlet I will also work this as I would a cove.

7) Unforeseen opportunities: I have found that know matter how hard you study a map, there are things that are not on it. Such as fallen trees, brush. Or maybe a rain storm from the night before has washed or knocked a lot of bugs in the water or there are big patches of debris in the water. I want to touch on these lightly and share things I have noticed, and have worked for myself.

A. Downed trees and brush close to shore are always worth investigation. Reasons being that they provide a lot of different things for a trout. One is cover. Two is bugs and etc.

B. I will most often troll in and skirt these objects as closely as I can without getting hung up and losing tackle. I will always use my "S" pattern. More often than not I will get some action.

C. Another thing of interest, are the large patches of floating debris. I will always be watching these to see if there are trout surfacing and feeding on bugs that are in these area's. Now if they are I will skirt these a couple of times and if I get nothing, I will troll right through the center of them. Now use your judgment on this, if you have big logs and anything that will screw your prop up, then just move on. This is something I've done on several occasion?s and have done quite well. But it is something I will use if nothing else seems to work.

D. There's one other thing I want to touch on. When I'm out there, I always have my eye's on the water. I'm watching for feeding fish on top. If I'm seeing a lot of it. And I'm not marking fish or getting strikes I will adjust my trolling depth accordingly. Maybe instead of 2oz or 1oz I will go to 1/2oz and try that for a while. Now this is something I will try if nothing else seems to be working.

Phase 4: Variables

I'm going to attempt to talk about variables, such as time of year, weather, water temp, shaded area's, weed beds, chop on the water, and so on. There are so many I'm sure I will be adding to this as I think back and go thru my journals.

A. Chop on the water:

I consider this a good thing. It offers trout more cover and concealment. There for making them a little more aggressive.

B. Wind:

Wind can be good and bad. It's the matter of how hard is it blowing. Can you fish safely. I often here it's hard to keep my boat on track. Wind will create chop on the water. It will knock bugs in the water. Try trolling with the wind, even if you can only work a run one way it's better than nothing. Also when you troll with the wind, this is the natural way the bait fish and bugs are being pushed on the lake. Increasing your chance of picking up a trout.

Because I only have a 12' Aluminum with an out board my natural instinct is to work with the wind. I might only be able to troll one way, but when I come to the end of the troll I will reel in and make a run to the beginning and start over. To rough to work the center, work the edges with the wind. Try and take advantage of what ever situation is presented to you. Are there times when the wind is to strong to work the edges, yes. You will have to use your judgment.

Also something to keep in mind, and this goes back to doing your home work on the lake. Are there places on the lake I can work that will keep me out of the wind? Chances are there is someplace that will be workable.

Now I've mentioned trolling with the wind, now this is something you have to experiment with. If you feel your moving to fast try slipping your motor in and out of gear. Or if the wind is catching your boat enough, try drifting with the wind. Again this is a judgment thing and you will be able to tell by the action of your lure. This is where time and experience on the water will pay off.

C. Lake is like glass:

How many times have you heard this expression. People will say it was just to calm out, fish were spooky couldn't get them to take anything. Well for me I look at this as another opportunity to maybe boat a couple. Most often in the NW you will find this condition first thing in the morning. And towards evening.

What I do is I'll watch the lake, are they feeding on top? What are they feeding on? What color combination? What is the light condition, has the sun hit the water yet. This best time for this method I'm about to go into is before the sun hits the water. Or if the sun has disappeared over the horizon.

The first thing I will do is drop my pop gear and put a 1/2oz of weight on. I will most often go to a dark colored lure. I will let out 100' of line and begin my troll. I will watch to see where the most activity is happening. Then I will start working that area in my standard "S" pattern. Making that area the center of my "S" pattern. Now I will work that area 2-3 times, if I'm not getting action I will go back to my lake plan. But if I am, I will work that until it die's out.

D. Weed Beds:

Now here is something that doesn't show up on many topo maps, unless a resort adds them in. I just love them. I have probably picked up more trout in these area's than any other. I have found them to be productive pretty much year round.

To work this area is quite simple, I will work the same old "S" pattern. I will troll in as close as I can to the edge of the weeds and work my way out. I never troll thru them, for the very obvious reason of losing my gear or snagging and dragging weeds. Again make a couple of passes, if nothing is happening move on. But always keep that area in the back of your mind. Most often it will pay off in a big way.

E. Weather Changes:

Do sudden weather changes make a difference, yes. I've noticed this over the years. If it's nice out for a week and then all of a sudden you have bad weather it will slow things down or vice versa. Now that doesn't mean they've quit feeding, it just means they've changed area's there feeding in.

Maybe they have gone deeper, or they are feeding in the inlets, or they retreated to the coves. This is why it is so important to work the whole lake. They haven't disappeared, simply moved to a more suitable spot for them. So I cannot express enough to you the importance of working the lake. You will reap the rewards