Bushmaster

I've always used a base hole pin in casting. After cooling, I remove the pin and use epoxy to secure the fiber weedguard. I have heard of some people casting the weedguards directly into the head while pouring. I think the heat may actually help fuse the weedguard into the lead. From what I understand from others, the heat from the lead does not effect the entire weedguard, just the portion in, and close to, the jighead cavity. I'll try different methods and thicknesses on my prototypes. Then comes the fun part when I pitch and cast them into the brick walls of my house. If they break, I'll try something else.

Thanks Red, The idea of casting a smaller head and forming the polymer clay around it was one that had popped up in my head also. The only possible downside that I forsee is the effect of the curing temperature on my fiber weedguards. I think if I used a plug with a release agent on it I could cure without the weedguards and add them after the curing process. I'll get some of the material this weekend and start working on different techniques and styles. Thanks for the info.

First, congratulations to red-g8r for winning the contest at polymerlures.com, not wanting to seem like I'm kissin up, but his was the best by far. Has anybody here attempted constructing jigs or spinnerbait heads out of this material? If so: What is the comparison in weight of Polymer Clay versus lead? A few people have approached me for bass jigs in a light (1/16 to 1/8 oz) weight but want to keep the profile of a larger jig to include the larger hook. How strong, in terms of "brittleness" is Polymer Clay? From your experience, do you think that I would have to make any modifications to the hook to prevent slippage of the head of the jig?

I haven't done any spinnerbaits in bucktail, but I am in the design process of a clear water bass jig in a crawfish pattern with a combination of natural hair and living rubber/silicone for use in water with sand/gravel bottoms with little or no wood or grass cover. I want to start with a non-weedless "football" jig, using the natural hair material for the top 1/2 to 2/3 of the lure. The living rubber/silicone will be used on the bottom 1/2 to 1/3 to imitate the "legs" of the crawfish. The addition of a realistic soft plastic crawdad would be the finishing touch. The problem is that I have no experience in jig or fly tying. I have always used collars to hold the material on the jighead. Does anybody have any links to simple (for the simple-minded) jig tying instructions on the internet? (preferably with good graphics)

Celt, I searched and searched the internet for copper buzzbait blades but couldn't find any. Well, I did find one site, but at $1.25 each, I thought that was just a little out of our price range. However, I found some information in the back of the book "Luremaking" by A.D. Livingston. I don't know if these businesses are still active. You could try to contact them...even if they are not active anymore, they may be able to put you on the right track. Al's Goldfish Lure Co. PO Box 51013 Indian Orchard, MA 01151 Midland Tackle Co. 66 Route 17 Sloatsburg, NY 10974 Blade Tackle & Sporting Goods 2103 33rd Street Erie, PA 16510 Carolina Novelty Co 10526 Brief Road Charlotte, NC 28227 Like I said, I have no idea if these people are even still in business, but it's a start. Have you thought of making your own or having some made for you? It wouldn't be too hard....shears, benders or pliers, and a drill????

Thanks for the input.

I use gold and silver plated blades in addition to black nickel. The gold and silver blades are meant for use in water with "color" and I have found the black nickel to be useful in clear water where blade flash could be a negative, although at times I include a gold or silver blade as a secondary blade on tandem lures. In your opinions, do you think I am spending too much for the "precious metal finished" blades, or would I do as well with plated nickel and copper or brass blades? I think I will stick with the black nickel because it is nearly invisible in the water.

What brand and style of hooks does everybody here use on their wire baits and jigs? Why? Is it mainly a personal preference or are there weaknesses in certain brands?

Your tactics in a tournament will depend on whether or not you have pre-fished the lake. If you have a chance to pre-fish, you probably have an idea what strategies to use. If you go blind (no pre-fishing), you will have to use your knowledge of bass fishing to construct a plan of attack. A plan of attack should be decided upon well in advance of the tournament. Determine where you want to start and include all variables to determine alternate locations or type of structure in case the first strategy does not work. In the "going blind" case, I would start with "search" lures such as a buzzbait or even the topwater I mentioned. My initial stop would probably include docks or riprap. If that was successful, I would continue on those structures but, as the sun got higher, switch to the lighter lures with a slower presentation. Whatever you do, do not fall into the trap of running scattershot around the lake throwing anything and everything at any type of structure or cover. You may get lucky and catch one, but the tournament fisherman that plans his strategies will have much more consistency.

Clear water is tough no matter where you find it. S-L-O-W D-O-W-N In water that clear, I would downsize to 6 pound test line on a light action spinning setup. Cast light lures in natural patterns. I would try finesse worms using a "dragging" technique or a light bucktail jig/craw-worm combo in a natural pattern with a football head. Use a slow dragging retreive with this one also. If the water is that clear, you probably have a sand or gravel bottom and the football head is made for this kind of a situation. I direct contrast to the above techniques, you could try a topwater stickbait using a "walk-the-dog" retrieve. This can call them up from deeper than you would believe. Light to Ultra-light crankbaits are an option also. Fish points, bluffs, channel bends, humps, and man-made structure such as docks, bridge pilings, and riprap at the dam. Whatever you do, you have to fish twice as hard when you are working gin-clear water. Good Luck and let us know how you did.

It's all about strength and sensitivity. I'm not certain what the "I" stands for (probably "intrinsic") but the "M" stands for "Modulus". modulus Mod"u*lus, n.; pl. Moduli. [L., a small measure. See Module, n.] (Math., Mech., & Physics) A quantity or coefficient, or constant, which expresses the measure of some specified force, property, or quality, as of elasticity, strength, efficiency, etc.; a parameter. In graphite fishing rods it is a measure of the strength and sensitivity. Sensitivity is measured by modulus in the industry. The more modulus a rod has, the more sensitive, light, and expensive the rod will be. IM6 graphite has about 35 million modulus, IM7 graphite has about 45 million modulus, while IM8 graphite has about 60 million modulus. Modulus is actually basically the tightness of the weave of the material that makes up the rod. Graphite having 30-60 million modulus is much more sensitive then the average fiberglass rod which has between 6 and 14 modulus. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the "compliments" on the snake. I guess they were compliments. I'm going to use it as my company logo. Any comments? Does anybody know of a company that has anything similar? I wouldn't want to infringe on any trademarks. Sorry for the double post, don't know what happened.

Thanks for the "compliments" on the snake. I guess they were compliments. I'm going to use it as my company logo. Any comments? Does anybody know of a company that has anything similar? I wouldn't want to infringe on any trademarks.

I make jigs in addition to spinnerbaits and buzzbaits, but I don't see a forum that covers them. Should I pose my question in the Wire Baits Forum?

Just found the site this morning. Looking forward to visiting often.