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  2. Definitely a nice compact little jig. Looks good. I like it.
  3. Today
  4. After some good advice from Mark and Ted I have finally settled in on a version that I like. Theirs are the bottom two and mine are the top.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Afternoon all, I am looking to make Red bug, but I mostly have dead on colors. I was curious if anyone has tackled it yet with only Dead on pigments? If so I could use some help and or recipe. Thanks
  7. this one might be really close https://store.do-itmolds.com/45-Ring-It-Worm-2-cavity_p_1115.html
  8. Smalljaw recently posted his version of this jig on YT, for anyone that's interested. He used a Gamakatsu 4124 Big River hook. Super sweet hook, but definitely pricey (around 50 cents a hook, I think).
  9. I went ahead and got 200 of the mustad sickles. I’m doing this because I don’t like to go get hung up baits and leaving a $.50 bait is easier for me than leaving a $3.00 one.
  10. I agree with Munkin on the mustad hooks for finesses jigs and banded skirt jigs i wouldn't throw my money away.
  11. Jewell has always used Mustad hooks in the past. Personally I like the 32798 Mustad for all finesse jigs. Looking at that jig its just made with fine cut silicone, nothing special about it IMO. Allen
  12. I’m impatient too. I heat my injectors and block up with a propane torch. Just keep it moving and while your plastic heats you can warm these up. Some times I use a griddle on HI.
  13. Yeah. I guess I was just a little impatient. With winter setting in here in New England, I actually throw my molds and injector into the oven for a few minutes. I think the major culprit might be the blending block. It's thick and heavy so it probably takes a little longer to heat it up. I always lube my Orings before I start. I use either worm oil or WD 40. Reminds me...I'm running low on worm oil. I've got an entire winter ahead of me to figure out the learning curve of the dual injector. Thanks gang for the comebacks.
  14. Last week
  15. This little worm is only 4.25” but spent some time looking around and is the closest I saw. Curly tail looks a little different but close may be the best you can do. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/6920-19-LureCraft-4-1-4-Ring-Worm-4-Cav.-2-Pc.-Alum.-Injection-Molds
  16. Was the guy 'Ken' from Preferred Plastics in Southern California?
  17. I got some actual knobs that were a 1/4-20 thread to use.
  18. Hey Guys, Happy Holidays all around. A friend in Texas asked me if I could make this worm. I have looked everywhere and I can't seem to find this ribbed worm mold. It says 'Power Worm' on the tail. No, it's not Berkley. The Guy that was making them for him passed away. Any ideas? Thanks.
  19. There is an electricians tool that looks like that. Don't know for sure what they call it, but has a cutter in front of the crimpers. Mite be easier to source locally. Maybe Harbor Freight, Ace Hardware or one of the box stores. Arne.
  20. Booms Fishing CP2 Fishing Crimping Tool for Single-Barrel Sleeves - Amazon American Fishing Wire Single Barrel Crimp Sleeves - Amazon size #2 I.D. - .047 in
  21. Heating the blending block is essential. I also warm my injectors.
  22. 320* is good. I live in Southern California, I always warm up my Injector & Blending Block before shooting. The Blending Block needs to be hot. Also lube the Injector/O-rings with worm oil or Pam spray.
  23. As I stated in an earlier post, I had ordered a FGF 6oz dual injector. Came yesterday, and like any little kid would do I couldn't wait to rip the box open. Went down to the workbench. Chose two different color plugs, and remelted them. Used the FGF 3.75 rip shad mold, had a few old tails already made, so tossed them into the mold , then shot the first run. It was a disaster! None shot! OK so the injector was cold from being outside ( told you I was in a hurry to play ), so I let hot plastic stay in the injector, and watmed it nicely. The main issue with not shooting was when the plastic hit the cold nozzle, it formed a sort of condom over the nozzles, and nothing could get out. Second run, reheated plastic, still had the condom thing going on, but shot the molds without problems, but used a lot of pressure to shoot the mold. I pretty much put all of my 230 lbs into injecting. After opening the tubes, some plastic, a good amount actually was still liquid, so I know temps weren't an issue. How do I keep the condom from from forming? What temps are y'all shooting plastic with using a dual injector. I was just under 320. As an aside I love the quality of the dual injector. Even my son the engineer was impressed. Especially, With the autographed cylinders! I thought that was pretty cool too. Help me out here guys. I can't be sitting on the handles just to get the plastic to inject through the condom.
  24. Thanks for the name, as it turns out there is local suppliers and I might be able to hit up cabinet guys for cutoffs. Got the steel yesterday, I have something like 200 hours of printing ahead of me so first step is to really dial in the printer so it has the best dimensional accuracy I know I am reasonably close so this is just due diligence.
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