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  1. Today
  2. What type of plastic do you suggest. I have mostly swim bait mix. To hard or?
  3. I was browsing the new site and there are a lot of new items. But I think the prices are higher than I want to pay, add in shipping and it's definitely sticker shock! I purchased a two ounce jar of Crinkle Silver from Tj's tackle, and the price with shipping was twenty bucks. Every place is raising their prices along with shipping. I'm hoping that prices will stabilize soon.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Would prefer to sell these three molds all together. 3.5" Craw, 1 cavity (I routed out the claw tip edges on this one -- see pics) 4.5" Beaver, 1 cavity 3.25" Chunk, 4 cavities All shoot very well. I've caught fish on all of them, just ready to move on to other molds. $85 to your door for all three. These retail for $38.50 plus shipping from most places. PayPal
  6. I always touch mine up. I've been using dropout for the last 10 years or so and I've never completely cleaned out a cavity to recoat it. I like to heat my molds up first and then just the lightest coat should do it. The heat helps it set quickly so it won't drip or run. If you're finding there's marks in your jigs from the Dropout then I would consider removing it and recoating But that only happens to me if I end up spraying way too much and get it to where it has pooled in a cavity which is a pretty rare occurrence. Actually it's probably only happen to me a couple of times and I caught it before I even cast a jig. Rather than clean the entire mold I just got some q-tips and denatured alcohol and cleaned the one cavity and recoated just the one cavity. But if you got spare Time to kill and you have nothing else better to do I guess you could clean the whole mold out first and then recoat.
  7. I’ve been pouring lots of swimbait heads and some of my cavities need recoated. Is it ok to spray on another coat or should I clean it with acetone and start over?
  8. I have an iPower 12 inch shutter exhaust. 940 CFM. I installed it over the work bench...it moves the air pretty good so there was no need for a hood.
  9. Piece of PVC with cap w/ bolt through...attaches to drill. I didnt quite get the hole in the cap exactly dead center...but this actually causes a little wabble. The tube is long enough to hold three bottles.
  10. Last week
  11. I made one out of flashing and it worked ok. Then started using a dual injector and never looked back. It was faster, better looking and a more durable worm.
  12. I almost forgot I've also made ice fishing jigs from the freestyle jig mold, swim jig mold, tube jig mold, herring head under spin, and some others that I'm forgetting at this time. Hopefully this helps and gives you a place to start.
  13. The jigs you made look to be pretty light. Usually for ice fishing jigs you want heavy dense small jigs that drop quickly and show up well on our electronics. I made quite a few soldered ice jigs over the years with blades from Reinke Brothers, LPO, Jann's netcraft, Barlow's etc. Usually I use gold Aberdeen hooks and solder them on with ice jig solder from Jann's netcraft or 60/40 solder from the hardware store with the 60% being lead. And you want rosin course solder not the acid core. I've also made ice fishing jigs from some Do- It molds: The crappie jig mold, round head jig with wire keeper, minnow head with wire keeper, tail spinner, and probably some others. I also have two Jigging Rapala molds from Kent Desautel. And some lead spoon molds from Sean Collins customs. And a Marmooska mold from Bug molds. The Do- it flutter jig mold in small sizes would also work well. But I don't have that mold in my collection. There's a lot of options out there for ice jig molds. And for making the soldered ice jigs if you could get a hold of one of those old Reinke Brothers silicone molds that holds the components that would be a great way to go.
  14. Big Epp

    Ice jigs

    Working on some ice jigs. I made some with aluminum disks, small lead weights, and epoxy. I was reading the bit about soldered ice jigs, but saw it only works with gold hooks. I wasn't sure if it would work with the components I have available. I put a picture of them up in the gallery. Does anyone have an ice jig they like they would like to share? The water I'll hopefully be fishing has panfish, bass, walleye, and muskie. I'll probably target panfish and walleye.
  15. Teflon Sheet( Non Stick Baking Paper)
  16. Looking for some 32824 3/O to make tog/sheep jigs. Anyone have some for sale? ever store online is sold out.
  17. Big Epp

    Ice jigs

    I'm going to try ice fishing this year, so I'm making some jigs. The silver circles are punched aluminum, and the hooks and lead are help in place with epoxy. These are just cured, so I haven't beautified them yet. Thoughts? See any reason they won't work?
  18. All Eyes

    orange bait.jpg

    Thanks a lot eastman! This one was done in Createx opaque fluorescent orange. I find it works best when built up slow with light coats as apposed to shooting it fast and heavy.
  19. The Jann's chart has 2 bodies figured in. One is called the head. The head is a small body, usually pointy at the top and flared at the bottom, that goes on top of the body. It makes using the chart difficult. You will have to use lower common denominator addition to get a total body weight of the head and body. Plus they could be using all solid beads which for me is too pricey. The thing I use most on the Jann's chart is the total weight. I bought a cheap ounce and gram digital scale on Amazon. A scale is useful to double check the listed weights of the component. I sometimes find the listed weights are off. I put everything on the scale - blade, beads, shaft, clevis, treble hook. That will leave the body to get to the total weight. I use hollow or plastic beads except for a small solid metal bead below the clevis. For a 1/4 oz spinner, I throw everything on the scale and usually need a 1/8 oz weight body to get to near a 1/4 oz total weight with the listed components on the chart (#3 blade, #2 clevis, shaft, beads, #4 hook). This gives you a baseline. A range of weights will work and everyone has their own preference. With a scale, you can drop down body weights, add additional beads or a head body, swap in a different hook sizes to see how the various components effect total weight. Then you can keep notes to which ones you like. You will not get a specific answer as to what is going to work best. It depends of the body of water, depth, weather, species of fish etc. It's why I have a range of different weight spinners for a given size. I make my spinners heavier than Azsouth. I typically use 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 bodies which are typically weights either brass, lead or tungsten. My typical #5 iline is a 1/4 oz or 7 gram body, .035 or .040 shaft, 1 small solid bead, 1-2 hollow or plastic beads, and #2 treble for a 1/2 oz total weight. I have made #5 spinners with 1/8 oz bodies to a full 1 oz body and they all catch fish. They just run at different depths. If I mark fish in 10 feet plus, I will going with the heaviest spinner. If I am fishing shallow or from shore, I will start with the lightest one.
  20. For me it is wholly dependent on what type of lure we're talking about. Worms, fluke, stick baits, swimbaits- laminate craws and creatures-swirl with some exceptions for colors that are predicated by being "natural" with a lighter belly and darker top AND will be presented to the fish with that orientation in mind.
  21. inline for me...#5 inline blade, .12 oz body, 2 beads, #6 hook and wire is .026-.024 generally comes out to a total of.23oz.
  22. I recently bought a bunch of green pumpkin / purple swirl Senko type lures They look amazing, but quick question for you guys: Do you prefer a laminate or swirl?
  23. Safety-pin spinnerbaits are nice but pre-made heads can be hard to find. I also don't pour lead anymore. LPO used to sell spinnerbaits heads where you could pick the wire form, head mold, and hook. You had to order a minimum of 25. I have done that in the past. I could not find that on their website anymore so I think they no longer do that. You might want to email them or one of the other places that sells spinnerbait heads if you want safety-pin heads. I am like Cadman. I use R bend for bass. I use loop wire for pike, musky, and saltwater. If I want to use a R bend in those situations, I will use small piece of latex tube or a small o-ring on the R bend to keep the line or leader from moving.
  24. Green pumpkin and purple just flat out catches fish. Other than being a little tedious placing the halves back in the mold each time laminate plates are about the easiest way to get "perfect" laminated baits. Good work.
  25. made a mistake, in my first post it should read for a 1/4 oz. spinner the recommendation is 1/11 oz. body.
  26. im voting other...safety pin style, get the containment of twisted and the flex of r bend
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