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  3. Sorry, not a fan of the off-set designs. They create hot spots & aren't consistent.
  4. Frank

    Next Level Production machine

    Sorry meant to quote you. See the answer above.
  5. Frank

    Next Level Production machine

    They are set to the side. Email me and I can send a video of them. fcrod2@yahoo.com
  6. All Eyes

    sealed baits.JPG

    Thank you! These baits are 10" not including the lip.
  7. Thank was supposed to be the thanks not laugh emoji thing fat fingers
  8. Thank you sir figured you would have the answer I was looking for
  9. Sorry, off for a while. IF I feel a need for a 2nd coat, I rub it with alcohol to clean any oil from it and just apply. No scuffing necessary.
  10. Gonna take my friend with me as well, we're gonna compere who will catch more.
  11. I don't use Alumilite uv but I do use uv hard resin, before second coat I hit it with 400 grit sandpaper. I have not had any problems but my fish don't have teeth.
  12. Last week
  13. I have some baits with single coats and poorly done 2 coats I am taking for pike in northern Saskatchewan so the durability will get tested Was hoping for someone with first hand experience doing multiple coats of alumilite uv to chime in. But if there is no response by the time I get back from my trip I will just test things myself
  14. Pjmartin

    20220606_112542.jpg

    Looks great. Are the eyes painted in
  15. Pjmartin

    sealed baits.JPG

    Nice job on the bait. What is the actual length
  16. How do you keep the mixing blades from hitting the injectors?
  17. The engineered angler and Marlin use UV and I could be wrong but I think they only use one thick coat unless they apply paint in between coats. I have always been curious myself how UV works and how multiple coats can be applied. I know with regular brush on clear I have to apply before it’s fully cured or scuff it up with 400 grit.
  18. I use rubber bands like AZ mentioned, but with some baits that have deep cutouts I use rubber bands and shove masking take on the wholes. Like this bait for example.
  19. It is most likely they are "Masters" used for making the molds to produce the baits or for a reference of the lure dimensions
  20. When a spinnerbait leans to the side at high speed it is due to a large blade. The faster the bait is retrieved the faster the blade turns and the more torque it creates. Smaller blades on a heavier head will allow you higher speeds without as much force pulling it over to one side. I'm using willow leaf blades as an example here. A typical 1/2oz spinnerbait usually has size #5 or #6 blades, that makes a good "all-purpose" bait. You can slow roll it in shallow water or work it at a moderate pace in the middle of the water column. That spinnerbait is a jack of all trades and master of none but they have a purpose. The larger blades create a lot of flash, so it is a good stained water spinnerbait. In clear water I love burning a spinnerbait, especially for smallmouth. In order to do that I use a 1/2oz head with a single size #4, you can burn that with little to no lean. It is even better if you use a shallow cupped blade.
  21. This is what does it for me... In one case...the leaning was caused by too big a Colorado blade.
  22. When using beads made of glass and or plastic on larger inlines with blades #5 and larger, casting pressure and impact shock tends to crack glass beads occasionally. Plastic as a bearing bead will work for a while but eventually wear out do to the weight imparted pressure of the blade hitting the water and then slamming back towards the back of the lure upon retrieval. Yes everyone has there preferences but to me a solid brass bead , gold or nickel plated provides the best bearing surface for longevity and performance. If you go to a hollow bead for a lighter or smaller lure the wear factor shortens the durability and life of the lure. When I throw larger inline spinners using # 28 sonic or panther martin type blade , no clevis is required as the shaft runs through the blade and rotates around the shaft on a solid bearing bead in front of a poured lead body, the brass bead bearing behind the blade actually distorts the lead from the pressure and impact from casting and retrieval. Every spinner requires a balanced assortment of components in order for it to work properly that's what makes making your own so challenging and rewarding.
  23. Nice work it looks real it could also work as a drone for the government! lol
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