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  1. Commercial screw eyes are vulnerable if you put them in balsa baits without also epoxying the hole they’re in. A hard knock can loosen the eye and cause it to rip out. If it loosens but doesn’t rip out, water will infiltrate and ruin the bait anyway. I prefer hand twisted screw eyes epoxied into pre-drilled holes. I’ve never had a failure with them. Making a durable balsa bait, or any wood bait for that matter, is mostly about stopping water infiltration.
    4 points
  2. Pour the 1/8 oz Snootie jig in tin. More than a third less weight than lead. Lead 11.342 grams per cubic centimeter Bismuth 9.87 grams per cubic centimeter Pewter 8.5-9.5 grams per cubic centimeter Tin 7.265 grams per cubic centimeter
    3 points
  3. On the bismuth or tin, all you have to do is empty your current pot of lead and put in the tin or bismuth. If you are going to do a couple of jigs for samples, take an old tablespoon or a small ladle, put a small chunk of tin, and heat the spoon/ladle with a torch and pour it into a hot mold. You can heat the cavity of the mold with a torch to to warm it up as well. Tin has a low melting point about 425 degrees lower than lead. I don't know how strong it is though. Bismuth is very hard, as I have poured bismuth jigs for the guys in Massachusetts. On the jigs, the walleye jig has a 90 degree hook, so I don't know if that is an issue for you. The other two are 60 degree hooks. You can incorporate a weedguard slot like Jig Man mentioned it is not complicated.
    2 points
  4. How about Do-It's BAT-7-A, Bat Jig Mold #3504. Maybe you can modify the hook eye to fit your hook.
    2 points
  5. You can usually paint water based paints over enamel/lacquer based paints after they are fully dry but not the other way around. ..Nathan
    2 points
  6. Hello, I thing using screw eyes versus making wire eyes can depend on the design and durability you're aiming for. Using .062 screw eyes from Janns should provide more. May you might consider reinforcing the screw eyes with epoxy or another adhesive to secure them in place. This can help ensure your bait holds up well during use.
    2 points
  7. Watch this - and this -
    2 points
  8. .041 wire is just right for all but the smallest or largest cranks. But the secret is that it needs to be SOFT TEMPER stainless wire, not the hard stuff.
    2 points
  9. I agree with cadman. I was given 75# of printers lead several years ago. I believe that it contains antimony. I’ve been mixing it with soft lead for a long time. I prefer it to soft lead especially for spinner baits and chatter baits. Like he stated you may need to have the heat higher to achieve the desired results. Good luck and please report back.
    2 points
  10. I’ve built and painted them both ways and it didn’t seem to make a difference when fishing them. My takeaway was that ultra realism is not the determining factor in getting what is usually a reaction bite.
    2 points
  11. It’s easy to make a weedguard slot. All you have to do is cut a piece of wire just bigger than the weedguard, tape it in place, put the mold. In a vice and tighten it down. I have several molds modified this way using Sevalon or Surflon wire in 25, 60 and 90#.
    1 point
  12. I've had my best success with bluegill patterned jigs. Looks great!
    1 point
  13. Yes, I’m starting to see that with this batch. It isn’t real bad. I’ll probably just add a bar of softer lead to it and see how that does.
    1 point
  14. You would hope after 4 months of going back and fourth on 1/2 measured attempts to solve the problem that might be the case. It was not! It was clear and deliberate avoidance in dealing with it correctly in hopes that I would go away, which I did on simple principle that I don’t want to do regular business with someone who operates like that and don’t have the patience to deal with someone who sends insults as solutions to the problems they’ve caused me. After everything we talked about on the phone and she told me, it’s clear that they’re running an oaky operation without procedures, QC/QA or good manufacturing practices. I’m way more happy with Calhoun plastics.
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. I'm sorry, brother. Maybe I misunderstood. I'm not getting any younger! LOL I thought that after everything you tried, it turned out just being a bad batch of plastic. In which case, most companies will send another to replace that.
    1 point
  17. That's a very generic question, and I'm not entirely sure what you're looking for. There are certainly guys on here that make wooden lures from scratch, and there's no shortage of shallow diving crankbaits in the mix. I make wooden or PVC cranks, most of them shallow divers. Are you looking for ideas for crankbait designs?
    1 point
  18. Try adding Carolina brown instead of Chartreuse and see if that will bring it in.
    1 point
  19. I would stick with lureworks for colorant. I would also add that if you use a paste colorant, you will be able to get a better consistency by weighing by grams.
    1 point
  20. I was out in the garage repainting some jig heads and noticed I had some chrome spray paint. I put a dark gray primer on the jig and cover it with a chrome and it looks beautiful. Do you think I can prime one of my Baits, paint the base white and black and then do the scales with this chrome spray paint? Do you think the oil and the water-based paints will get along? And do you think after I clearcoat it that it will dull the chrome?
    1 point
  21. A 50 gallon jug of LC will need to be mixed vigorously before even thinking about using it. I've had some that have had an entire gallon or more of hardener separated from the drum. Once you figure that out, LC is pretty good stuff. If you're someone going from MF to LC, you will be shocked the first time you use it! I actually used an old wooden baseball bat to break up the hardener. LOL.
    1 point
  22. Yes, if your plastic is good and you’re using heat correctly, you can remelt several times and still make pristine baits QA baits. I always cut up in smaller chunks and add a little fresh plastic, sometimes stabilizer but there’s stabilizer in new plastic.
    1 point
  23. When I modify my molds I use JB weld I like a permanent fix after I do the modification.
    1 point
  24. this sort of stuff is great for twisted eyes it work hardens as it is twisted there are various diameters. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FVQVNCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    1 point
  25. Stores that use bar codes usually have way extra of their own bar codes. Depending on the number of SKU’s you need, talk to them and see if they have enough to cover your products. If you going to sell in just one store it won’t be worth it if you have to buy your own bar codes.
    1 point
  26. I understand. Hang in there. It can be a long road to recovery and progress may come in small increments. I am 8 years and 23 days past mine and still have a couple of residual effects.
    1 point
  27. Im seeing two doctors now my heart doctor and my neurologist Im takin 3 different meds now two will be permanent. On rehab just rest and I get tired if I try to do to much. There still working on the origin of where the clot came from. There trying to pinpoint it down so they can prevent it from happening again.
    1 point
  28. I modified a horse head underspin to add a wire keeper. I actually reduce the jig weight as I filled in a part of the head. No issues with fillout. If you do get issues, turning up the temp on the lead often helps.
    1 point
  29. I always have thought the same thing. They are usually gapped where the lead keeper is on the mold. Reason being, that is the hardest and the lowest part of the mold where lead needs to fill. Many guys have problems filling the lower part of the mold. If all molds would have these slits for the air to escape, I think many newbies would have less problems.
    1 point
  30. Please disregard this thread. I got excited after reading the other bait keeper thread. I went out and checked my mold. There isn’t enough room for the keeper unless I do some major mod which I don’t want to do.
    1 point
  31. If you're going to add a wire keeper, put a relief gap somewhere in the head for air to escape when the lead pours in. You only have to do it to one half of the mold. Maybe you don't even need that. put the keeper in and just try it.
    1 point
  32. Hope you recover fully. May take some time, as you know.
    1 point
  33. Thanks a lot! I'm still trying to master my brush tails but have been happy with my latest few.
    1 point
  34. No I have not. Been putting in a lot of hours at work, so right now I don't have much time.
    1 point
  35. Dude, your glides all look great! Really nice looking brush tail.
    1 point
  36. When I powder coat jig heads i powder coat up to five colors on one jig head with one heat application. When when I hang the jigs in my gas ovens I have side by side big twin door ovens with fan built in so it evenly push the hot air around the jig head and it make the powder paint swirl over the heads. Every jig head has a different swirl pattern to the jigs head it you add more the one color dont just start the oven out at 350 to cure the jig heads. Start the oven out at 250 degrees for 15 minutes it starts curing the heads at a lower temp it starts setting up the powder paint. Then move the heat up to 350 degrees and it will give a very smooth shiney hard finish. I do this to all the baits I build. I dont have problem with with chipping bo matter what structure im fishing. Another few tips dont use a fluid bed to dip you jig heads. And dont use a small paint brush to add extra colors after your base coat. Ive been powder coating. for over 25 years now and never run into powder paint chipping after it cured right.
    1 point
  37. Everyone's pigments/dyes are unique to that supplier. I have always found the majority of MF to be thin (watered down). The Lureworks line is great, I use them for the majority of my pigments/dyes. Their parent company (colortechnologies) supplies a good portion of the production industries so it is likely your favourite brands are buying the same pigments/dyes. As noted above, every supplier's pigments are unique. As for Greenpumpkin, it never hurts to have a green GP like 109 as well as a browner version like 156 (both LureWorks colours) I think you're referring to LureCraft, they sell a plastic labelled 502, not Lureworks.
    1 point
  38. I like lureworks colorants & glitter & they have good plastic too.
    1 point
  39. I'm liking the twisted wire...sometimes a solid through the body wire. The wire is easier to get o-rings on. Like @Fishwhittlersaid, once it epoxied in place...the bond-to-wood is stronger than the wood itself.
    1 point
  40. i use .035 welding wire about 2" long then twist a few times drill small hole and glue in super glue
    1 point
  41. Your point is well taken, but actually it has been a trend that has gone both ways. I have baits with basic craw painting dating to the 70's (cannot remember the names and not on the lure), and some of them had the claws on the correct end. Others, well I suspect most lure paint schemes were done by artist in some factory in China and not by biologist of experienced fishermen. But, as you and Bob have pointed out, if it is a reaction bite, like most crank baits, it probably does not matter all that much.
    1 point
  42. Palmetto Bass, Good to hear from you again, but I'm sorry it's for such a sad occasion for you and his family. I think I speak for most, if not all, of us hear at TU when I say please send our condolences. Looking at the vintage baits you posted, it's easy to see he was a truly inventive person. The first baits are obviously the design that Lucky Craft copied for their RC 1, 1.5, and 2.5 baits, and for all the similar shallow cranks that are now so popular. The second set of baits look like they are what every major lure maker copies for their flat sided cranks. A very creative mind. It's a loss for all of us. Mark
    1 point
  43. Mike, When I use stick-on eyes on spinnerbaits wheather flat or 3D I always paint over them with D2T. Works great for me.
    1 point
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