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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/26/2022 in all areas

  1. I wanted to give an update on my ordering placed back in late January/early February. Amazingly I received my custom cut aluminum bugmolds.com the end of last week. Dang! Those fellas did an amazing job simply off a few pictures of a bait. I just saw they updated their site stating the shop is back up and running too.
    5 points
  2. Yep there's not a thing wrong with Ozark Trail baits. Just like any other brand of baits they all have some good ones & they all have some that may not be as good as the next but all brands have some that will catch fish. We use to use a bait that actually got us made fun of by some guys saying we were crappie fishing. Well guess what after winning 1st & big fish the next 6 times straight they didn't make so much fun of us again. I really enjoyed when they asked what we caught them on & laughing when telling them & they thought i was lying to them. A shame it wasn't a big name brand or color anybody thought would catch fish.
    4 points
  3. The best wake I've ever fished was/is the CL8 baits Baby Possum. It has a wide, flat bottom, a mostly flat top and a reverse cut joint that is fairly tight. It's lip depth below the bait is about equal to the baits heighth and the lip is very close to the front of the bait. It sits pretty low in the water, with just the top 3/16 inch sticking out of the water. The waking version weighs right at 4 oz's but fishes extremely heavy, like it weighs 6 oz and can wear you out even with the right rod. It seems to be a small compact package that is very dense. I've had great luck with the fish just crushing the bait, especially around wood. My wake making experience has been primarily with resin baits. When making a 2 pc bait, I use the 60/40 guideline, 60 being the front section. 50/30/20 for a 3 pc bait, with a short tail. When I draw out a design, I always include a drawn in tail, This will help me judge the size the tail section will wind up being and the overall shape of the bait. I've made a couple the with even shorter tail section on a two pc and the tail section will slap pretty hard back and forth. Also take into account for the length of the joint cut itself. Cutting certain angle joints can have the effect of shortening the front section while lenghtening the second section, creating unbalanced proportions. You want the front section and the lip to drive the back section with it's movement, not have the back section hump the front. See a lot of new glides out there with a longer tail section than front, makes for a weird swim. I've made a couple myself. I use 1/8 Lexan/Poly for lips, never needed anything bigger, even on 10-12 inch wakes. I have a tablesaw blade that cuts a 1/8th inch kerf so the lips will slip right in the slot. When testing, I'll cut different shaped and length lips and wrap with blue painters tape around the inserted section to keep the test lip tight. In a wake I want a hard back and forth slap not a rolling type swim. Taller wakes don't make for great bait IMHO, I think they tend to roll more and that kills some of the tail action. Different if you have a rat type tail, they tend to create good action behind most style baits. Wakes can act dramatically different if the linetie is on the nose or under the nose towards the lip like a squarebill CB. I think a guy needs to try both positions to see how it affects your bait. AZsouth helped me troubleshoot a wake bait I was making. Made a bunch of adjustments. We moved the lipslot forward, the linetie back and I moved the joint spacing back and forth. We finally found right combination of those factors the bait came alive and had a great consistant swim. You just have to work to find the right combo for your particular bait. It was like the timing of the sections and the tail movements were finally right and moved in unison and made great sounds. That one looked like a Frankenbait but swam good. Make sure each section floats level with each other, independent of each other, so the joint{s} won't bind. *90 lip will help keep the bait waking and on the surface. Kick the lip out some and it will start to crank down. I make a couple resin wakes with no added weights in the bottom. Just some solid resin in the bottom and the hardware, MB mix up top. I would think that wood wakes will need some lead ballasting. This had been some of my experiences, hope it helps...
    4 points
  4. I've tried every glue known to man and clear dipping trumps them all.
    3 points
  5. On smaller jigs 1/4 oz and less I use 2 tabs (44 strands). On larger jigs I use 2-1/2 tabs. There are also many customer requests, which I do what they want. Less strands and the jig sinks faster, more strands and the jig sinks slower. Also more strands blow out more in the water which makes it look bigger. The choice is up to you.
    3 points
  6. Here is a simple method for making some stencils I came up with I lay down a sheet of aluminum foil , sprayed with butter flavored Pam ( that was all I had , I suspect regular Pam would also work ) Drizzle hot glue randomly , about 10 " above work surface . If you want thick lines you can let the glue spread before cooling down or the thinner lines cool down quickly - I just blew air on them to set at what stage I wanted . Clean with soap and water . They are soft and pliable and can be clipped around lure like tulle or laid down as usual . I am going to try doing this method on blank square bill ( sprayed with butter Pam first ) to see if it will hold the shape once cooled down , more ideas will have to wait till next weekend
    3 points
  7. I would avoid China had an order and had to get my money back after 3 months of emails. I ordered from Amazon and had the same product in 3 days. Let's all stick to USA products I know it is hard too, but we must try I don't want to get political so I will stop at this point. Everything I pick up is almost all from China. I understand that this is the Delima this country is in, we just have to do are best I know it sometimes comes down to cost and we don't even know we are buying a product from China. Wayne
    3 points
  8. Loosen knob (A with pink allow in picture) Spray WD-40 or any rust dissolving type lube like "Liquid Wrench" from the upper side of the arm adjuster (B with yellow allow in picture) Let it soak overnight at least. Let it sit longer is better. Gently tap the top of adjustment arm (C with green allow in picture) with a small hammer (Do not hit hard!) Tap tap tap... It should flee the arm and the whole finger thingy become adjustable up and down. I will not online for a while from now... I hope above helps.
    3 points
  9. If you use resins you can try these ideas too, The unpainted one up top is Alumires ( RC-3 ) tan for the lower body and the Alumifoam on top . I let the RC-3 cure and poured the foam in mold and use a small piece of cardboard at the pour spout to keep the foam compressed in the mold as it rises - makes the foam more dense , this foam cures very hard and dense but really floats . The unpainted one sinks slowly and upright , I didn't add micro balloons to the RC-3 as I did with the painted one . The painted one is a moderate wake bait with great action , I don't have any of the ones I made with a lip around any more to show you but use the advice above about lip angles and such . The resin portion is heavier and the foam keeps it upright so with this style of bait no weight is necessary . Can also use the Alumilite White to do the same thing , You might be able to see in the painted version some of the " grain " from the foam come thru . The foam may not keep the crisp details . The exploding one was the first attempt , the resin was still soft . Poured foam in walked away and came back and had a good laugh . I have poured the resin and let it partly cure and add foam , fully cure and add foam ( to see if the foam bonded any better to the partly cured resin ) seemed to be the same good bond .
    3 points
  10. Wow! Lots of great feedback on here! @AZ Fisher, I feel like you just took me to school on this, and I am excited to put some of this stuff into practice. @Flaswimbaiter, I hate the feeling of painting one up and making look just great then having it not swim like it did previously. Nothing hurts quite like drilling into a nice paint job and clear coat to add or adjust some lead...
    3 points
  11. This 8.75" trout glide has been a long time in the making, but I'm finally getting it to where I want it to be after years of testing and weeding through iterations that I wasn't 100% satisfied with. I actually started working on this particular model about a year and a half ago and only now have enough time on the water with it to feel comfortable pushing it into the final phases of prototyping. The master was carved completely by hand out of a block of basswood using only a utility knife, wood chisel, and sandpaper. I made a two-piece silicone mold of the bait so that I could pour duplicates out of resin. The tail was also carved out of wood and molded with silicone. The casting material is a flexible urethane with black glitter to replicate the trout dots on the body. The bait in the photograph is the first fishable prototype out of my new mold. It was painted with an airbrush and clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear. I did a semi sloppy job with the hand-tied Owner ST-36 feather trebles. Not sure how they will effect the swim, but they add a nice touch. Overall I am very pleased with how this bait came out. I'd love to fish the paint off this thing but will be donating it this week to support the Swimbaits for Autism fundraiser event hosted by Swimbait Culture. Check it out and thanks for looking! Dan
    3 points
  12. Day or night, I don't use a trailer hook on a spinnerbait most of the time. Very rarely there is a day where the fish just nip at it and I use a trailer hook then. That doesn't seem to happen at night at all. At night, I find the fish seem to fully commit when they strike. Night time strikes right at the boat can be heart stopping.
    2 points
  13. I use this stuff, works well for what I need. Just squeeze out what you need and start spreading or filling. I've used it on both wood and resin. I use a small square of very thin plastic to spread it, like stencil plastic material from Hobby Lobby. Sands easy but can clog sandpaper up pretty well tho. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-00907ES-4-5-oz-1-Tube/16927984?fulfillmentIntent=Shipping
    2 points
  14. I rough cut my Lexan with tin snips, and sand to final shape. For me, the key is having one flat side to use for layout on the blue tape I cover the Lexan with. I draw a centerline off of the flat face, and use that to draw a final shape with a ball point pen. Then I trim close to those lines, sand to the actual lines, and dry fit the lip into the lure using the centerline to get it sitting right. Then I remove the part of the blue tape where the lip seats inside the lure, and glue it in, using gap filling super glue and accelerant.
    2 points
  15. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bondo-body-repair-kit-0475653p.html#plp This is the stuff I use. I have never timed the workability and it will be hugely temperature dependent. I did some looking and it looks like the first 30 min after the initial cure is what they call the green stage where it works really easy. so it is a light touch to get to 90% then let it sit for a while and you can get the rest of the way. There is a wood version of bondo, it uses wood flour filler vs whatever is in the automotive stuff is filled with. I would suspect it is softer in the final cure
    2 points
  16. The method I used was template blocks with a small handle. I cut my lexan close to shape and used double side tape to stick it to the block. Then I trimmed it up with a table mounted laminate trimmer. Lightly sanded the edges when I was finished personally I am done working with lexan now because I don’t enjoy working with it. There is so much that can be done without a lip
    2 points
  17. I have had this happen with Alumilite white if I don’t shake both jugs well before mixing. this is my theory anyway. I have only had this happen on my first pour if I have let my resin sit unused for a while. A good shake and no issues on the next pours I have a lure making room in my house where my resin is stored and all my pouring is done. So temp is always good and I live in a fairly dry area so humidity is not an issue. So I don’t think it’s weather related This is what I have experienced
    2 points
  18. I cant speak to the VAC 50 stuff - but using other products like that lead me to believe it wasn't mixed properly and you introduced alot of air when mixing it - which resulted in a all the bubbles/cracks, etc etc With some of those products you need to follow the instructions diligently (mix volume) and time from mixing to pouring, etc... and even some you'll need to pull vacuum on it to get the air out before pouring it and even after would help. As for mold design - look at aluminum senko molds - there are alot of issues with your layout as far as spacing, sprue and venting sizes. Also - with any material besides aluminum - assume you'll want to put a little more space between each bait to aid in cooling. So your mold either needs to be bigger or you nee to put less cavities in it. J.
    2 points
  19. Hi, Welcome to the site. Here are some guesses. Better close-up pics of the ones not identified below would help. Lure lengths would also help. 1. Bill Lewis Stutter Step 2. Cabela’s Mean Eye Crankbait Shallow 3. (need a better pic) 4. Strike King Red Eye Shad 5. River 2 Sea Snub Crankbait 6. Luhr Jensen Sugar Shad 7. (need a better pic) 8. (need a better pic) 9. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 10. Strike King Red Eye Shad 11. possible Jann’s Netcraft FG Squarebill. I have some in different colors and the lines match. 12. Strike King Pro Model Series 3 Crankbait 13. (squarebill, need a closeup to see molding lines) 14. Ima Squarebill 15. (a better side pic might help) Looks like a painted fin on there? 16. Fairly common, might be hard to identify. Looks like a knock off the discontinued Cabela’s Dig It crankbait (not the Dig It Craw). 17. Bandit 100 Series Crankbait 18. Strike King Squarebill 2.5. Chartreuse Crazy Shad color which has been very effective for me the past couple of years. I am a sucker for the old school crackle back look on that bait. 19. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 20. Gary Yamamoto Midasu Lipless Crankbait (fish in pupil is the giveaway) 21. Rapala Scatter Rap 22. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 23. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 24. A better pic will help. Looks like there is a small dorsal fin? 25. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 26. This minnow has a rearward point at the top of the gill plate. I have seen it somewhere but can’t remember where. I will keep looking for it. 27. L&S Mirrolure, could be a Top Dog model 28. Bass Pro Shops XPS popper (no red gill line), discontinued model, new one is different 29. Booyah Prank 30. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 31. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 32. (need a better pic) 33. (need a better pic) 34. 6th Sense Movement 80X or a knockoff 35. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 36. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 37. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 38. Bass Pro Shops XPS popper (no red gill line), discontinued model, new one is different 39. Yozuri Pop’n Splash, Arms Series (Duel) 40. could be Yozuri Surface Cruiser or Tsunami Talkin pencil popper. These lures used to come in smaller sizes. Length would help here. (need a better pic too) 41. Bomber Square A 42. Looks like fairly generic lipless crank. Could be hard to identify. A closeup might help. 43. (minnow crankbait**) 44. (minnow crankbait**) 45. (minnow crankbait**) 46. (minnow crankbait**) 47. Rapala X-Rap 48. Rapala X-Rap 49. Rapala X-Rap 50. (minnow crankbait**) 51. (minnow crankbait**) *Squarebills – There are so many brands and knockoffs out there. A lot of these are sold at fishing expos by various vendors. They run the range in quality from junk to good quality with nice paint schemes. They may be hard to identify. The ones where the front gill plate line looks like a curved 'Y' and there is a shorter second gill plate line are knocks offs of the Lucky Craft. The pics have to be clear and show all lines on the gill plate, the scale cross hatching and the eye pupil to have a chance. **Minnow crankbaits – These look like store type brands such as Bass Pro XTS, Ozark Trail, Walmart Pradco assorted bin lures, Chinese lures from Amazon/Ali. These may also be hard to identify. Jim
    2 points
  20. Welcome to TU, Saltyboi. Custom CNC molds are pretty expensive and that’s really what you need for your own design and enough production to produce baits quickly and in volume. Cavity count is probably the one most important part of production. That costs money. If it was me and I wanted to start a small business in soft plastics, I would settle on a bait (you decided stick bait) and purchase some molds that are already in production. There are some really good ones out there and it’s not like you can reinvent the soft stick bait wheel. That way you can focus on the other stuff that will require a lot of time and effort to develop. Packaging, colors, salt, recipes, clients, production, other equipment needs, etc. No patent infringement using a design from someone that sells the molds. You can’t call it and package it as a Senko. I believe that would be copyright infringement.
    2 points
  21. I believe the problem is the acetone contained in your paint. If your paint contained lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, or (probably best) water as a thinning agent, I think epoxy would not be a problem.
    2 points
  22. Here are the winners of the 2022 Coolest Lure Contest! As always, judging this and choosing winners was very difficult. The talent in these entries is off the charts. Congratulations to the winners. If you are listed here as a winner, please send me a PM with your full name, email address and the state/city/province in which you reside, so we can get your prizes over to you! Best Custom Painted Hardbait 1 - Shawn Freeman - Bluegill - 2 - Buckhorn - Yellow Perch - 3 - Terry Morgan - Trout Swimbait - Best Homemade Hardbait 1 - Nimmer Swimmer Musky Lures - Turtle Topwater Crawler - 2 - Matt Thayer - RI - Chevron pattern Red and White Cedar 2pc "Skitterwake" - 3 - danthefisherman - Tracer Trout - Best Wire Bait 1 - JP Custom spinner baits - Triple Arm Spinnerbait - 2 - AngelExtremadura - Bladed Jig - 3 - Chrishill01 - Bucktail Jigs - Best Soft Plastic Bait 1 - Mr.RPG - Soft Jerkbait - 2 - Napasavag3 - Parrot Fish - 3 - Fish Girl - Flipping/Creature Bait - Best Fly 1 - St. Maries Flies - Lizard - 2 - Brian7394 - Perch Fly - 3 - Envision Fly Works - Duck - Best Rod/Reel 1 - Chris Reed - Custom Sea Hawks Fly Rod - 2 - Shannon Hall - Custom Casting Rod - 3 - Pearson Custom - Chess Rod & Reel -
    2 points
  23. While my foray into lure building is pretty recent, my background is in composite engineering, so this is my bread and butter. Some random thoughts that come to mind reading others posts here: Room temperature cure resins can be quite sensitive to atmospheric temperature, generally best to work with them around 70-75F, outside of that can drastically change the progression of the cure. Microballoons are definitely a pain to handle, always wear at least an N95 mask, and better yet a respirator with particulate-rated cartridges or filter material. I haven't heard of issues for them introducing moisture into the system but a trick you can try is placing the container in a secondary airtight/vacuum container (like previously mentioned, great idea) with a desiccant like those made for gun safes. If you want to match densities to wood it's a pretty simple formula to follow, I could write it if helpful. Aways follow the mix ratios to a T with epoxies and polyurethanes. Whereas polyesters cure by condensation reactions initiated by the "catalyst", usually MEKP (which is actually an initiator and not an actual catalyst) and can be sped up or slowed down by changes in the MEKP amount added, epoxies and polyurethanes cure by addition reactions, and any additional part A or B will remain unreacted regardless of how long the cure is allowed to progress. This generally leads to a softer material that is less temperature and moisture-stable. I have seen some specify that off-ratio mixing of their chemistry results in brittleness which is odd, but they know their material. Polyurethanes also often offgas during during, so they need positive pressure to crush any bubbles from ever forming, hence pressure pots. Venting is crucial to infiltrating small female features in molds, but lightly heating the resin to decrease viscosity usually helps a lot as well. That does affect the cure process so it can take a bit of tuning to dial in without the really nice software that can model all of these things in real time. If I can answer any questions I'd be happy to do so.
    2 points
  24. The eyes look like plastic dolls eyes which I use for my baits. I paint mine the color I want or black the out. I get them from Aliexpress.
    2 points
  25. It passed the tub test with luckI have rabbit strip in my fly tying stuff. A lake test later this week if the weather agrees.
    2 points
  26. I don't know who makes them, but I think the same of them as I do Big Bite Baits. They take a tough rap, but honestly I feel their stuff is pretty good.
    2 points
  27. That can be someone else’s decision. Mine is finished.
    2 points
  28. Not sure who makes them but I think you are failing to appreciate the shear volume of product Wal Mart and similar stores move. Not many companies that aren't going to cut a deal to get that contract as simply they will never see those sells through mom and pop stores. Even large companies will meet the price to get into the stores (becoming less important however).
    2 points
  29. This is the way I do it as well with most skirts. Like Cadman I get some requests for swim jigs with like a 30 strand count. Allen
    2 points
  30. While most plastisol floats there are specifically formulated floating mixtures, I have not tried any but the concept has been on my to try radar for a while.
    2 points
  31. FYI Be very careful if you use the glass micro bubbles. Wear a mask as you DO NOT want to breathe/inhale this product. A friend tried them and as mentioned, they do alter the color of the plastic and you have to use a lot of tin order to float a book. IMO , not worth the trouble. YMMV
    2 points
  32. I think it's the 4" double dipper that i have but it's definitely a top notch mold. It has 5 notched rods & if you use the top notch you can make tubes with a half inch solid head or put the rod in the lower notch & make standard hollow tubes. I've used mine a whole lot. Bob at cncmolds& things also makes a couple affordable tube molds too. Either mold whether Angling ai or bobs you'll have to cut the tails your self. That doesn't bother me a bit but it does some folks. I made a beefed up version somewhat based off of lurecrafts press using the deluxe tail splitter & it's simple. Just dip each tube in worm oil & give it a good solid press once or twice & you're ready to go. You won't have to worry about whichever mold you purchase. I only texas rig my tubes so i mix 50-50 medium to hard plastic & mine hold up well.
    2 points
  33. Watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8nxe8E66AQ&t=9s
    2 points
  34. I do not have this mold, but the web site spells out 5 cavity. Also under Accessories you can buy extra rods. There it says "Molds originally come with rods". Try calling A.I. Hope this helps a little.
    2 points
  35. It was in the hook eye socket. I got it out with a drill bit turned by hand. Then I redid it neater.
    2 points
  36. The DN referred to is Dick Nite Fishermun’s Lurecoat, type S81. In the decade since the post, another MCU option has also become popular, a MCU sold by automotive online stores (can’t remember the product name -a little help please!)
    2 points
  37. You can get from Lureworks Spike-it https://www.ispikeit.com/product/772/flotation-beads-4009
    2 points
  38. Jig Man, just so you know, the original non-weedless Midwest Finesse Jig mold did the same thing to me. I finally broke down and filled in the hook eye cavity with hi-temp RTV silicone gasket maker - Permatex. I was able to minimize it without the silicone but had to use the silicone to eliminate the problem. On my mold it seemed to get worse as the mold got hotter. I use an RCBS pro melt and found that slowing down the flow of lead did help but I'd still end up with too many with lead in or around the eye.
    2 points
  39. Check out this old post https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/7629-need-recipe-for-blue-fleck-worms/
    2 points
  40. wood choices: most builders experiment to settle on the wood they want to use on their crankbaits. With experience, you realize producing a crankbait that performs well requires limiting the variables that can otherwise screw things up. One important variable is wood density and the workability of different wood species. It doesn’t matter which wood you decide is right for you. What matters is gaining experience using it. How to shape it, how to ballast it, how to finish it. Eventually you need to settle on a limited number of wood species because if you don’t, your baits will tend to disappoint you. At least that’s been my experience building baits for 20+ years.
    2 points
  41. I like the scales you have done with the dremel , folk art like . Dremels are amazing tools . Mostly I have drawn and hand carved my scales with exacto or similar blade , I am going to try a couple different things this weekend and post results
    2 points
  42. Weight placement. I took a crank I made and converted it to a lipless just by moving the line tie and moving the weight forward. Top right corner of photo.
    2 points
  43. This bait was made for the lure contest but I thought it was open through the end of April rather then closing on the 29th. so I hope you enjoy this bait here instead. It is a sunfish glide bait bade from colored pencils.
    2 points
  44. 1 1/2 ounce vibrating jig , Magnum blade ( Barlow's ? )hand tied skirt and 5/0 owner spinnerbait hook
    2 points
  45. Once you loosen the knob should be able to push the drop foot down to the table if needed. If it isn't raising and lowering it is frozen in place and you need to free it. Should be no need to add a 3/4 pine table to it. Don't bend the fingers... use larger pieces of wood or make a few waste blocks and use double sided sticky tape.
    2 points
  46. Looks a lot like a Radtke Pike Minnow
    2 points
  47. I learned yesterday that the joints need to be much looser than what you’re used to with other lures. I was not getting any clacking on the joint but then loosened it a couple turns and now it’s noisy. If it’s a two piece make sure the back in is smaller than the front end and make the front a little thicker or fatter. At least that’s what works for me. One very important lesson I learned the hard way, I was testing my wake in my pool and it was working fine but when I got to the lake I had already painted it and clear coated and it dove. I have a nice little wake and crank but that’s not what I wanted. Where are you place the line tie is also important. If you place it right up against the lip you make it a better wake, but I may not be that stable at a medium to fast retrieve. From the nose you’re going to get a tighter wiggle, but maybe not the wide wobble you want.
    2 points
  48. I made a couple wake baits loosely based on the Slammer. It was a pretty simplesrylewake to start with. I used about a 90° lip angle and it worked pretty well. Now I'm working on some to make with more detail and a realistic profile. It's about 3" long. I'm planning on using 2 joints and bristle fins. At some point I'm going to try the hinge style joint, but I'm working with twisted joints.
    2 points
  49. I am on nightshift and had about 10 hrs sleep over the last three days so I will slowly add to this thread as I wake up lol. Tonight is my last shift and will be more coherent on my days off no there is no magical mix. I actually develop different mixes and layer combinations for each lure Lead is not mandatory and I make many lead free lures. Sometimes I use pure resin as the ballast or non at all. Some of the resin in your mix settles to the bottom creating a keel and between this along with your hooks can be enough at times I have not found any quality difference in micro balloons and last year switched to some cheap generic ones I can buy in quantity. I have seen no change in the results of my recipes with the 4 different brands I have tried I have used both smooth on and Alumilite resin. Smooth on I found a little more brittle and more prone to air bubbles compared to Alumilite. I personally use Alumilite white because of this and a better price when buying large quantities Mold material I have used Smooth on mold max 30 and Alumilite high strength 2 silicone. I prefer the Mold max 30 because it is thinner and cheaper when buying quantity there is some basic info to start. This doesn’t even scratch the surface on stuff I have figured out testing different things with resin my best advice to anyone wanting to work with resin stop thinking of it as a wood substitute and build your lures according to the different attributes of resin
    2 points
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