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  1. here are some videos, not the best but you get the idea. https://youtu.be/KPsVzycUTf0 https://youtu.be/YY0KLwPxOkY https://youtu.be/XjENNdaTFR4
    5 points
  2. I build bass lures but my buddy trolls for stripers and I build balsa trolling cranks for him. Same construction methods as my bass cranks. Pound for pound, stripers fight twice as hard as largemouth. No failures yet over 15 years of striper fishing. Just like all you guys, my opinion about thru-wiring is informed by my fishing experience. That’s mine. Yours may vary.
    3 points
  3. I exclusively build bass lures and if a bass ever breaks one of my non-thru-wired balsa baits I will gratefully and cheerfully salute the beast as he swims off with half my lure in its mouth. Hundreds of crankbaits, hundreds of bass, I’m still waiting. I don’t think thru-wiring offers added strength to a lure compared to well designed and installed hardwire. But build crankbaits however you think is best for the species you target.
    3 points
  4. Just because you don't know the answer does not make the question 'stupid', in fact, the opposite is true As for the answer, I think it is side injection. Dave
    3 points
  5. Being a professional in product development field working for many fortune 100 companies - the overwhelming majority of companies (actually - pretty much any company big enough to have an on-staff lawyer) will never look at your design or take a meeting just to avoid lawsuits. Should a company already be working on something similar or have a design they finished but haven't marketed it yet - and then they view your work - whos to say who "owns" it at that point... and now the company who did all their own work is open to legal action if they proceed - even if the did all their own R&
    3 points
  6. A good wife is priceless in this game. I showed Tessa a video of a hunting lure being exercised in the apartment swimming pool. She didn't seem impressed, remaining silent. I played it again and then asked her thoughts. She replied, "Why you put fish in swimming pool, it will die and make water dirty"! Best confirmation of a realistic action ever Dave
    3 points
  7. There is an action that a lot of fisherman view as bad in crankbaits but it actually looks natural I owned an aquaculture outfit in the past and noticed a lot of of injured fish roll swimming on their side struggling to stay up right. I have trolled a crankbait that blows out and side swims at times for lake trout with good results. The lure action looks like crap by fisherman’s and lure builders standards but I always carry one when trolling lake trout. Somedays it pulls out fish when nothing else is working I have also had lures that had an amazing action in my mind but the fish
    3 points
  8. Honestly I think a large portion of fisherman don’t even realize hunting is a good thing. I have one design that consistently has a hiccup in the action hot exactly hunt but more so 6inch kicks off to the side. I have had multiple fisherman ask me if I was going to tune that out of the action so it runs true. There seems to be a portion of fisherman who believe a good lure must run perfectly straight and consistent I wonder if this plays a roll why big companies are not biting on it on your hunting information
    3 points
  9. Well I broke down and asked the wife and she says top of the nose The problem now is if this lure is a hit she is going to try and take all the credit for the design
    3 points
  10. cast ind sells several wire diameters of the drop wire... I like the .051 best. Largest U.S. Manufacturer of Lead Fishing Tackle (castind.com)
    2 points
  11. https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/tail-weights.html Maybe you could use these tail weights with the cup washer. You could trim the weights to fit your lures. Maybe you can find a tail weight mold or someone who has one? I don't know if anyone on here has the mold that could make you some. I could not find the mold for sale anywhere. Maybe you could use a bullet nose or worm nose type mold instead with a piece of shaft wire to preserve the shaft hole. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bullet-Nose-Jig-Molds-P228/ https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Worm-Nose-Sinker-WNS-6-A
    2 points
  12. Maybe check out the different brass spinner bodies. You might find something the right shape
    2 points
  13. I use a scroll saw for all my baits and lip slots. I hold the lip against the bait at the angle I want and trace on both sides of the lip with a fine pencil and then cut to the inside of both lines. I always need to take at lest two passes but you should be able to get any thickens you need by taking really light passes and testing the fit until you get it perfect.
    2 points
  14. I don’t have the percentages like David but I do use a lot of lead that has antimony in it. It is a lot harder than plumbers lead. I have to run my RCBS heater on 750° to make it work well. I cut the sprues before they get hard. I don’t try to break them off.
    2 points
  15. i use 6% antyimony in spincasting. it will be hard (no pun intened) to break off the spru in hand pouring. when I have a difficult pour in hand pouring I will use hard lead because I think it casts easier. last time i checked, roto only sells lead with around 4% linotype runs around 10-12% andtimony. I have hand poured 6% and that is plenty hard, I wouldn't call it brittle but breaking off the spru can leave a hole where it breaks off.
    2 points
  16. I'm right up there with you guys. So let's see. In the past five days, I've gotten a couple gals of plastic with additives. Worm oil and scents, and was just looking at color charts for green and orange or yellow colors. Of course these were all from different manufacturers. I mean why would I order everything at once? I thought I saw a thread about how much does lure making cost. Seems like $15.00 a worm at times. It's worse than having a garden and growing $20.00 a pound tomatoes. Looking at some firetiger plugs, green looks closer to what I need, and plain orange, with
    2 points
  17. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUd5zpGwA5Y The loudest rattling bait I have made was based on the above video. Drill a small pilot hole through the body being careful to avoid internal hardware. Then, I used a forstner bit on each side to drill out a disc on each side just a hair deeper than a dime. I think it was a ¾” bit, maybe 5/8”. A dime should sit being just a hair under flush. Once the disc holes are drilled, use a ½” (or 3/8”) bit to widen the pilot hole going through the bait. Seal the hole with superglue. Put one dime in place and glue/epoxy it in. Once dry, place that d
    2 points
  18. OK, Guys and Gals, lets get to the nuts & bolts? Why do we ask or look for through wire? Answer is because we thought it was stronger, supperior, etc. WRONG! I have built Custom Handcrafted Balsa baits since 2011, built them both ways, lets break it down. I'm in a bad mood and will vent trying to be subjective and civil. Through wire is a joke, perception and a farse! A through wire is only as good as the build, simply as that, it can be weak, defective and cause issues if not built correctly, same as other methods. There is no sure fire method of building crankbaits, except for
    2 points
  19. I have posted this complex sinusoidal idea many times, in the last post of comments page 2 for example. I have even drawn the graphs on post No19 of this link. I might have posted some 14 years ago when I first thought of the idea and experimented with it, but may have kept it to myself at that time. I am very impressed that you arrived at the graphs independently, good engineering mind. Simple harmonic motion is always on an architect’s mind when designing tall thin structures or long bridges. There have been famous disasters due to combinations of SHM and vortex shedding. I do th
    2 points
  20. I don't mean to stir this boiling pot, but I am old enough and fish enough that I have had several lures break in my day. Funny, they were normally the older two piece cheep molded lures or the through wire balsa lures. I have had the OLD wooden lures that had the poor seal coats have screws rust out, and I have had a few Lucky Craft Live Pointers where the "through wire" on the multiple joints broke. But....... Guys, they are lures, not bridges. If a few break, people don't die.
    2 points
  21. It really depends upon a lot of things, however here would be an example for injection baits. Mold - $35 for Do-It Essential Series Mold (molds range widely in price depending upon what you want) Plastisol - Varies by Brand and size - $50 Gallon Colorant and Glitter - $15 total (a few basic colors) Tools - Injector, clamps, etc - $70 Total for above - $170. Some places sell kits so you could get certain products combined and lower the cost. Like many hobbies 1 mold turns into 10 and 1 color turns into 20 and on and on. All the molds and tools are resuable so cost
    2 points
  22. What I always find interesting when it comes to to debating the lure construction strength is most are not considering is the shear range in size/power of fish people target with lures. Most are comparing lure construction to species like bass where 10lbs is big and failing to realize this is a small fish to some who target larger species I would be choked if someone built me a lure for a tarpon trip using the same construction they used for largemouth I have had big chinook, lake trout, and pike break lures. I have had pike break hangers twisting in a net/cradle. Chinook have pull
    2 points
  23. SlowFish that is the lure I mentioned in an earlier post, thanks for sharing that. There was a video on youtube several years ago that showcased and explainted the theroy and reasoning, along with action and results. Very cool. azsouth, great work explaining how you arrived at your conclusion. Several years ago when I had the test tank I had planned on trying something like this, never got around to it, to busy I guess, but great work anyway and thanks for sharing. Dave, I think we talked about this sometime ago, I was on a Japaneese Crankbiat kick and then swithced to your Hunting t
    2 points
  24. If he's actually wanting to be legit than you'll have to figure federal excise tax in too on top of everything else . There's several guys here that can explain it to you or use the search function & look it up. Most of us start out thinking that then realize how much time is involved & usually just end up making stuff for ourselves & buddys. Maybe trade some with other bait makers for stuff they make is pretty enjoyable too. If i were doing it as a kid i'd just do it on a cash basis & know who i was dealing with.
    2 points
  25. I've been working on some jerbaits (think rapala or smithwick jerkbait), and have been working on getting the action I want from the lures. I found this video today, and really appreciated the view of different jerkbait actions.
    2 points
  26. I did not want to break the rules, they seem to change. here they are.
    2 points
  27. A word of advice is to think about what the main bait you throw every time you fish & buy it first. This is a hobby that can get very expensive real quick like. lol My first mold that i bought was a basstackle bt flipping hog( baby brush hog) because i throw it a whole lot. I also bought a 6 ounce basstackle injector because after asking was told they were the best on the market & i agree now. Next i bought two 4" shz molds because i throw the crap out of super hogs in the summer. Then added here & there & have 30 molds now & growing which is a a couple thousand dollars
    2 points
  28. your most common places are going to be dead on plastix, bait plastics and calhoun. i personally use bait plastics 242 and love it, and i have used calhoun in the past and it was very good too. i havent used dead on but hear good things about it (some bad too!) best bet is to get/buy a sample from each and choose what sorks best for you. watch worlds worst fishing on youtube, chris has many videos on making plastics, from the beginner to the advanced.
    2 points
  29. if your coming to MN you NEED a topwater, a walk the dog or tail prop or popper are all fun projects.
    2 points
  30. I think thru-wire is mainly an artifact of large scale lure manufacturing simplification by Rapala and not a quality based decision. How many times has a bass fisherman had a fish break the body of a Balsa crankbait but had the catch saved by a thru-wire? Not often enough to worry about.
    2 points
  31. Same experiences when cutting baits open. I want my lures to last but think of lures being more of a consumable product. If wanting to build something more bulletproof then I jump to 2 part polyurethane foams as water intrusion is no longer and issue and can still get a very "lively" bait. I really never have had many issues with balsa but don't build near the baits I do with basswood and no where in numbers as I used to do. D-Baits.... brings back some good memories.
    2 points
  32. UKandy I have disected many baits, and alot of balsa line thru baits are not sealed properly, or should I say sealed for structural strength in mind, normaly they epoxy the line thru channel but do nothing to the balsa to make it stronger, so it's rather easy to tear the line through out of the bait either upwards or forwards, once the line through starts to tear slightly it will let water into the bait which will eventually cause catastophic damage. I twist my own line tie with stainless steel wire and epoxy it into hardwood dowells that are then epoxied into the balsa body which is seal
    2 points
  33. Dave moderate diver at about 8feet can definitely be made to hunt
    2 points
  34. If there is risk of your target fish species to actually break the body of the lure through wire is a good thing. In most cases this is not an issue so for most species/lures it’s not needed in my opinion If you are making resin baits and you cast your hardware into the lure through wire is even less important The main thing in my opinion is appropriate hardware matched to the material to handle your target species
    2 points
  35. Unfortunately, at least using my hunting theory, the hunt is limited to shallow swimmers. I do not know what the depth limit is because none of the waters that I fish are deeper than 4'. Dave
    2 points
  36. I am sure some companies could build hunters, but it is a known fact that many of the famous hunter baits were build accidents. You might have to buy a dozen baits to get a couple that hunt as you want. There were discussions here on TU if you search back to the beginning. When I joined TU in 2007, no one knew what caused a lure to waggle. If you search for the word vortex, you will not find anything before 2007 in the context of lure movement. Yes, you might call these industry secrets but you would be wrong, people back then did not know the secrets of what made the lures do what they d
    2 points
  37. A point indirectly brought up by @Travis and for that matter, many times in other threads; what is the definition of hunting, when is a hunter not a hunter? Many will argue that a lure that rhythmically and regularly steps from side to side a few inches cannot be defined as a hunter, and only erratic, random stepping of a larger amplitude can truly be defined as a hunter. The fact is that ‘hunting’ is a range of movement that is dependent on velocity. How erratic the hunt, is determined by the stability of the lure design. So, we have a combination of two ranges; speed and stabilit
    2 points
  38. I am on a jerk bait kick right now so my vote is a slender lipped slow rise jerk bait
    2 points
  39. I work for a large company in a product development role. I can tell you this, the bigger the company the less they care if the product "works" right. What they need to do is sell stuff profitably good bad or otherwise. Most have great ideas internally that never see daylight due to timing, market or whatever. Personally if i had a great bait that i could reproduce consistent quality catches and is manufacturable, you'd be better off doing an LLC. There is enough power in social media these days to not need the big companies anymore. Its a great time for entrepreneurs imho.
    2 points
  40. A contributing factor may be that hunting is often an unstable action and blows out at high speeds. A slow, finesse crankbait may be foreign or unpleasant to guys who prefer burning or need to cover water. If azsouth has solved for hunting at every speed, that's really something to stand on.
    2 points
  41. I just finished my master for a curly tail pull bait and trying to decide on a tie point location This will be a resin bait it will be a front heavy sinking bait using a combination of pure resin/lead bird shot poured into the drop belly location in the head. The rest of the body will be poured with a floating mix of resin/micro balloons. The goal is to have it so I can rest the lure on the bottom resting on its nose with the tail floating up so it gives almost a feeding look hook locations one at the back edge of the eye and the other in the drop section in the tail deba
    2 points
  42. Definitely a right person sort of deal. Companies have established processes for RnD and you'd probably need a higher-up to jump your idea in. Hillbilly Voodo beat me to the punch. Out of curiosity, is this a modification can be done to any bait, an external piece, or a style of design? That completely explains why my one crankbait has been producing over the rest. It rolls (rolled, I just cracked his bill) over 90 degrees side to side, barely running true. Must also be what Lauri Rapala was all about.
    2 points
  43. @azsouth if you want I personally know an owner of a mid size Canadian lure company that I can call directly and see what he has to say. He will give me a cut and dry no BS answers or I will make fun of him that he is a crappy fisherman lol No promises it goes anywhere but I have the ability to by pass all the BS and talk to him directly at least. We have history so he won’t beat around the bush with me If you are interested shoot me a PM and a description of the design( not how it’s built) and what your proposal to the company is regarding your design Don’t be surprised if hi
    2 points
  44. I'm not sure this will apply directly to your baits, which sound like they already work well, but, in my experience making spybaits I found that the higher the ballast is up from the bottom, the more the bait shimmied side-to-side on the pause. I wound up with a 1/3 ratio, with 1/3 of the ballast above the baits centerline, and 2/3s below. I used lead wire, and pushed it up into holes drilled into the belly up toward the back.
    2 points
  45. Have you watched this bud, may give you an idea for testing your bait out.
    2 points
  46. Interesting video. I think I had the wrong idea about jerk baits, but I have never used one or built one. The video does demonstrate how the swim angle is relative to the retrieval speed, and backs up the argument that every lipped lure has a hunting speed, but this is just a side note. It looks like the most erratic action occurs when the lip is vertical, this too makes sense, as it is in this lip attitude that the hunt occurs. I guess it is nice for the lure to 'spring back' to horizontal, and for the lure to have a nice movement on a steady retrieve, but I think that these ar
    2 points
  47. This lure design was originally carved/molded to become a spy bait last year. I was not all that impressed with the results. After re pouring the blank with a different resin recipe it had a much nicer action as a sinking jerk/glider. Added a new paint scheme to try out on this lure too
    2 points
  48. Quick tip..if you want to try different sizes or styles of bills in your bait..you can use elmers rubber cement...It is plenty strong to hold for testing..Then when you decide on the Bill the rubber cement peals off clean then us Devcon 2ton or similar to permanently install them..Nathan
    2 points
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