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  1. I make some baits with UV. Personally, I like it and think the bass do too. It only takes a pinch or a smidge in a cup of plastic so don’t over do it. Another thing I will do is add it to my topcoat when covering eyes on my leadheads. Works very well.
    2 points
  2. Foil scaled vertical jig
    2 points
  3. Just pored a bunch today 2- 8 oz. New jersey is much shallower. We go 3 miles offshore and your still in 60ft of water.
    1 point
  4. Can't say enough good things about Barlow's Nova Stone Chameleon paint. With that said, it's really hard to go wrong with Protec Magic Craw Blue. Excellent powder paint that.
    1 point
  5. I’ll take a look at the 7247 and the 114 but I’m not crazy about the Gami prices. I had enough 2831’s left to get me by for now. Luremaking suggested a Mustad 3205 as a replacement but it does have a shorter shank than the 2831’s. Really need that longer shank so thanks for your suggestion.
    1 point
  6. Thank you, I will check those out. Hopefully they will get some like the newest version Unfortunately backwater is out, and didn't return my call to find out if they will have them soon. The other one is a bit different with only one spinner on it. I might order some just to try
    1 point
  7. VMC 7247 ? Gamakatsu 114 has a slightly longer shank relative to point gap ie: a 2/0 Gami has a 1/0 gap, so its comparable to a longer shank standard 1/0. Eye legs might be undersize compared to 32831. I use 114 up to size 2/0, dunno about bigger sizes.
    1 point
  8. https://www.sugartitcustomlures.com/product-page/economy-spybait https://backwateroutfitting.com/product/spinspy/
    1 point
  9. https://brightbaits.com/softbait-paint ... if from USA is not possible, then let try with Europe. Bye Cami
    1 point
  10. Contact Spike It again and ask if you can get the VPI paint shipped. SB Coat is airbrush ready and in small containers only. VPI isn't airbrush ready and is only available in quart cans. The Bruce that frank mentioned in that post used to work for ColorTechnologies (Spike It/Lureworks)
    1 point
  11. For your reference, I have the 6oz BassTackle dual injector and am able to shoot 8 cavities of the anglingai 3.8 inch rip rap mold with a little leftover. I do need to preheat my injectors a little first though so that the first shoots dont set up too quick in the injector.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. Off the rack soft plastics have been satisfactory for all sizes of walleye, so I have no need for ties. I prefer a custom designed forward eye flat bottom down weighted head for mounting plastics or a downsized version for tying trout jigs. Not sure which production molds include these features.
    1 point
  14. Send him an email or message through ebay & he'll tell you how much plastic it will take to shoot it. May take a day or two with things like they are in the ukraine but he will get back with you.
    1 point
  15. I would look at the Novastone colors shift powder paints from Barlows. They are awesome paints!
    1 point
  16. I use AC foil (sure tape) with Devcon clear. The clear does not stick as well as it does with wood, but it does work. I hade a huge snook rip up a foiled bait and it did not peel, I patched with UV resin and kept using it. you can see some damage on this side, but the other side was much worse. Here a some other examples.
    1 point
  17. No hazmat in plastisol that I know of, Chris. Also, any that I’ve received did not have hazmat stickers.
    1 point
  18. Used everything from baking foil to HVAC foil. I prefer HVAC tape and it allows me to add some nice scales to it. Never had an issue with epoxy taking to it. You can check the hardbait gallery for some of my work. I’ve used various 2 part epoxies and KBS. No issues.
    1 point
  19. Shoulders are usually quite a bit bigger than the bottom of the lure, the belly weights should be as low as possible and static. This is the learning curve of building your own bait, knowing were and how much weight is tricky at best. Ad weight to the belly hook and see how it affects the swim. Remember +/- 1 gram can be the difference between a good bait and a paper weight.
    1 point
  20. Today's his actual birthday. Happy Birthday Ben Siegel, wherever you are. You are missed
    1 point
  21. Happy Birthday Ben Siegel, wherever you are. You are missed
    1 point
  22. work the foil from the center of the bait to the end, top and bottom....I use a round wood pencil to get the foil to lay against the bait without wrinkles, then wipe it down with a clean rag to get all contaminants of the foil. BTW no need to foil the top of the bait.
    1 point
  23. The lip seems a little far back. That line tie next to the lip should make it wobble wear as the one on the nose should make it shimmy.
    1 point
  24. Any kind of lip will prob impart some action. I was thinking of a tear drop shaped lipless crank with a lot of forward weight. The fat bottom should keep with from wobbling. If you go with a lipped bait try putting the line tie way forward on the lip, this should kill the action.
    1 point
  25. I've been trying to make a slightly larger copy of a jointed Rapala topwater bait that I really like but I've struggled with getting much action out of my attempts. Based on this thread I took a closer look and, to my surprise, the bill is concave. Not just bent concave, but actually shaped like a soup spoon with a hollowed out "bowl". I can't believe I didn't notice it earlier. This morning I 3D printed a prototype and, sure enough, it has perfect action. I should note that despite my training in engineering and statistics I changed two things at once: I added the concave hollow to the lip and moved the cut line so that the head of the bait was about 45% of the length vs. my original 30% so I can't conclusively say the the concave lip was what created the improved swimming action.
    1 point
  26. I know I’m a bit late to the party here but good ole Elmers Rubber cement works great to hold bills in place for testing and then peels of clean not damaging the lure surface..Nathan
    1 point
  27. Good example of Vortex Shedding, bite was slow so took this video.
    1 point
  28. As I understand the subject, the lateral line is the fish's ears, a row of sensitive pressure sensors along each side of the fish's body. Just like with our hearing were not only can we hear sounds, but with an ear on each side of our head, we can tell roughly where the sound is coming from. When a fish moves through the water, it is pushing and pulling at the water making pressure changes, just like when you shout, you set up pressure changes or waves in the air. those changes in pressure travel away from the source, gradually getting weaker until they dissolve away to nothing. it is the same in water except it is movement rather than sound. The vortex disturbance that our lure sends out create an image of something moving rhythmically through the water. An inanimate object would not send out such a sound wave, thus creating an image of something alive and possibly edible. Of course, the image may be the equivalent of a Keystone Cops video, but real enough to warrant further investigation. I hope this helps. Dave
    1 point
  29. It's not about the depth. It's about holding in the tide. We can have close to 40 feet of tide differential from high to low during the years worst tides. You need heavier weights to hold in that kind of current. Most days 8 oz isn't going to hit bottom except during slack tide. Some days you can't hold bottom with a 3 pound cod sinker.
    0 points
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