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Have not used the gel to seal a bait did use to seal a few pens I turned when ran out of the regular super glure. It won't be absorbed as readily as the liquid due to viscosity. Personally I find the liquid easier better to coat things and the gel reserved for applications where I need it to stay put (mounting coral frags for example). A finger cot or vinyl glove makes short work of coating a bait. On my lathe I have sealed much larger pieces (bowls) with superglue in no time. Apply in low humidity settings and cure times will slow dramatically. A dehumidifier in a bathroom or walk in closet will let most get down to much drier conditions, even in humid environments. One year we had a small lab space 8 ft x 8 ft approximately that the AC had issues in and had to do some work on some materials that were sensitive to humidity. I could start out in the mid 70% range and get down to near 12% quickly running two run of the mill big box store units.

LureWorks Cotton Candy 165 Purple Flake, some green flake, and what looks like a small amount of silver flake. Maybe you can adjust the color to your liking using a tiny bit of the florescent pink as alsworms said. I have a bottle of cotton candy from MF I think from some years back. Used it once. And like the rest of us I have a bunch of colors I've only used once.

no one mentioned the l;ip slot. if crooked it will death spiral

i use the thin super glue a lot when prototyping and building test baits. and use the gel on stuff like eyes, if using screws or twistwire. not sure how long the superglue sealing will last, but some of them baits are getting up there now.

I guess I could have made the photo a little smaller to get the writing in. Left is Lureworks 165. Center can be read.Right top2drops red 3 drops brown pumpkin. Bottom is 3drops red and 4 drops brown pumpkin. All MF colors. MF soft sinking plastic. No salt or other additives.

Im gonna give it a shot. They sell dried shrimp at a local mexican market, im gonna pulverize it into a powder and give it a whirl. I wonder if the fish will like it.

I think @Outlaw4 has a good point about the weight. Keeping the weight down in the lure close to the belly might help keep it from rolling over and help it swim more upright. Generally speaking, keeping the lure sitting level can be really helpful. I've made some that sat nose up or down and still swam fine, but level is generally the way to go.

most glides have a lot of belly weight, dropping the belly might help if it moves weight down. Does it sink level?

Private group, gotta join, best I can do...

Five minute Devcon is fine for lips and line ties if that is the route you want to go. Other options will work also.

You could try some red & dip a tooth pick just slighty in some white to give it a pinkish hue. Just dip maybe an 1/8 inch & stir it in then if not enough repeat the process. It should take very little to get the pink look if you're dong a small batch.

we use dollar store adhero epoxy. remember scuff the lexan lip .it holds very well.

Yes they're legit & one of the big players in the plastisol & bait making products business. I buy pretty much all of my colorants from them.

www.ispikeit.com/product/623/cotton-candy-165

Doesn't sound right as I don't see pumpkin being in CC, but you can buy basic pumpkin at any lure parts place. I would recommend NOT getting pumpkin from MF as it's very weak.

also if the pull point is beyond 1 inch from lip end baits will normally blo-out .

A picture would definitely help..Nathan

Easiest way to figure out if it's lack of weight ....put some weight on the front hook and try it.

Hey guys, I currently use medium soft lureworks. I’m looking to buy a blend for creatures, craws and larger worms(AR Worm) should I go with bait plastics medium or medium / saltwater blend? I want to have some firmness and durability but also good action on my creatures, craws and larger worms. Thanks in advance!!

Thanks very much rustedhook. At those dimensions it will definitely do what I want it to. Cheers

You'll be satisfied with Anglin A I without a doubt.

So a little update... I had an old mason jar of KBS that had the top inch cured on it. Upon inspection I could tell the bottom was still in liquid form. I tried a few things and then finally drilled big holes through it and transferred it to another jar. It was really thick like molasses but I tried dipping a bait anyway. Well ya you know how that turned out but it did harden. So I went online and purchased the KBS thinner. Today I added a little thinner at a time until it was about half thinner and half kbs LOL. The viscosity is still thick but much much better. Im going to let that sit a few days and see what happens. If its still liquid and a decent viscosity I will dip another bait and see what happens. Im hoping that as this stuff thickens/cures in the mason jar I can dilute with thinner and still have a product that is useable. Ill post back with what happens.

Well if you don't wanna buy it and you're up for adventure you can do it yourself...

If you do some searching here and online you will probably come across tutorials and info on creating two part molds using Durhams water putty . It is essential to get all of the moisture out of the mold by baking before attempting any pours . Good luck on your jig ideas ...

Tho I've not personally encountered any, there have been complaints of Power Pro and Sufix braid counterfeits circulating for years. I got some not available in USA Gami 604 #6 & #4 years ago that were more bendy than what I expected (on eBay haha). Has anyone experienced quality variations in batches of Gamakatsu jig hooks, especially wire strength?

I know you said you weren't a wire keeper fan, but I've seen several people use jigs from this mold with their keitech-style swimbaits. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Swimbait-Head-Jig-Mold-P3763/ Got a 90 degree hook on it too. Maybe not your cup of tea, but thought I'd throw it out there, just in case you like the look of it.

I have a mold with the wire keepers. It is not Keitech friendly, even with super glue on the head. The dirty jig holds the best.

I would personally buy the poison swing tail jig mold and modify it for the hook you want and wdb100 double wire keeper.

The resin manufacturer will specify the light nm needed.

Thanks. I'll give it a try, and report back.

That is Rainbow shad but I haven't ever had one in my hand. The 3 inch model looks completely different color wise. I think the photo makes it look purple because of the tail section and comparison with the light smoke/near clear bottom pour.

Could it possibly be cinnamon? I don't see any purple in the picture, but if you're seeing some, it could be purple hi lite. MF makes a killer cinnamon, so I'd use that with purple hi lite and holograph flake. Best of luck, brother!

This came off a recipe list and I haven’t tried it but thought I would pass it along. It’s in 8 oz. Plastisol. Red Bug 40 drops red shad , .035 green 1/4 tsp, .060 black 1/4 tsp, 1/8 tsp.015 red

I an not sure you will get the action you want with a flat sided bail ( I am about to start my own design thread)and I am just guessing but it looks like you are printing 2 halves and gluing everything inside. For my stuff I have been avoiding 2 part baits like the plague. With my lures what I try to end up with is a 3d printed equivalent hand carved lure blank. This shows the idea reasonably, this lure was printed belly up. the wire harness is a slot filled with CA glue and baking soda the ballast are two 00 buck lead shot. I have used steel slingshot ammo too. The back does take some sanding but a layer of CA glue and some sanding get rid of most of the layer lines and marks from the supports. I have used both thru wire and wire twist eyes and twist eyes seem to stand up to the pike I fish. So for now they are my default. % infill is another tool that is really useful for floater divers I just use 10% double line infill. With sinking lure I use at least 35%. With my whitefish project I am planning to print it so it it has the density as if I had made it from maple.

Pinterest (dang spell checker)

I think it's more for the angler than the fish. Some guys swear by the Bait Fuel but it's water based. I do add scent to the baits I sell.

Scents are only really effective if they're water soluble. Unfortunately, most scents contain oils & plasticizers that are not water soluble. You'll get some scent particle release but not as well as a full water-soluble scent.

The times I tried Molotow it dulled with a top coat and i tried a few. I never tried the Alclad so maybe its time for some testing.

Experiment #1 is complete. Using 10 drops of LureWorks 165 Cotton Candy I made a 6 inch finesse worm, and 4inch single tail grubs.The result was pretty darn close. I was a little heavy handed with the glitter. So it makes the color off just a hair 9 drops would have been sufficient possibly. I'm not sure, are we allowed to post photos in the forums? Is so I will post them. Keep in mind the original pics of the cotton candy color were made under top conditions. My pics are on the workbench. Next up. Red and green pumpkin. Or is it brown pumpkin?

Try using braid as a main line with a short fluoro leader. No stretch braid really makes for good hooksets.

You're really hung up on the pumpkin thing. Why use two colors and not be certain of the results, when you can use the one coloring, and be done with it? Interestingly, there used to be many other suppliers of cotton candy pigment, but now it seems it's down to the one. I'm going to sacrifice some plastisol, and make the recipe, and see what I get. And I think I still have a bottle of cotton candy and make some. Will report back.

Personally I use MF. Always have been happy with their product and customer service. I have used Bait Plastics. A close second. If its reheats you're concerned about, just add some Heat Stabilizer,and reheat slowly

On the belly hook, you can try a T-type Treble like an Owner ST-35, KVD triple grip or other EWG treble where the points are slightly tipped in to reduce hook damage. You can make your own T trebles with pliers but be careful. Some hooks like Owner ST-36 are too stiff and snap when bent. If you are not careful, you could hook yourself or take a hook shard to the eye.

Agreed, lead tape that golfer use is great for testing baits and modifying store bought baits.

I have ran through 3 gal of the 242, the 262 med/hard, and 1 gal of the soft. No issues and takes reheating punishment well. I’ve tried several other company’s plastics but this one is my favorite.

I have used plastisol, feathers, paint brush bristles, silicone mats, flexible plastic cut from various containers and notebook covers, even a thin flat belt from a small piece of machinery. I like tails that will flex and compress some if the bait is bit from behind.

Excellent molds. Luckily i never had to wait for my tube mold, but knowing the quality of them i would have no problem waiting on another one.

Here's some pics of baits I've made with Angling AI molds.