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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/15/2024 in all areas

  1. I put together a jig business. With a couple pros making marketing videos for the website it drew attention. I focused on selling wholesale and made personal calls to stores. The pandemic helped tremendously because I had ordered plenty of materials and they were manufactured here in the USA, so no supply issues. Recently sold the company to a bigger outfit. It was interesting and profitable but good luck was definitely a factor.
    2 points
  2. The #1 tip is to not under price your baits. This was the biggest mistake I made in the beginning. Stay firm on your prices especially with friends because they will always want more. Make sure you do not invest money into molds of baits that are infringing on others patents because you will get a cease and desist letter and then you will not be able to sell anything from those molds. Make sure you get the right suppliers at the best prices. American made supplies may tickle your patriotism but it will also hit your wallet (this is a very touchy subject in the current global politics because it affects your shipping times and security of suppliers). You said you are new to the hobby so I would spend a couple of years perfecting the craft before making it a business. Good luck.
    2 points
  3. Craws for me are the most enjoyable bait I've ever made which stems from my days of tournament fishing. At each event I fished I would walk the bank and turn over rocks in search of getting a craw or two to use in deciding which color trailers I would use for my jigs. As mentioned above there are so many sub species and color variations making them is never boring. I found the greatest challenge is imitating the molting version which involves semi milky opaque and translucent elements. I only hand pour so I have options as to how many colors I can integrate in the laminating process needed to create the illusion ranging from 2 to 4 with 3 being the most common. If I'm really energetic I'll pick up a few lake rocks and bring them to the shop for color matching since they molt to their surroundings. I put them in a glass bowl of water then start to match in plastic, I do dibble in making my own skirt material so this is beneficial for that as well. How I've always viewed making a craw in how I'm going to fish it first and what the fish is going to see while I fish it. 99% of the craws I make have a an opaque white/pink or peach belly/bottom. The colors I mix and match the most often are Amber, GP, Red, MF Blue Craw and Scuppernong. Flake colors most commonly used .015 black, orange, red, blue, copper, .035 gold, red, copper
    2 points
  4. yup, that would certainly work. The only advantage the the Plum dye and a drop of black would have over the Black Plum would be that you could control the amount of darkening made by black. The Black Plum advantage is it removes the guesswork.
    2 points
  5. Several good opinions have been given here. Besure to only make one change at a time so you know what “ fixed your problem. I’d probably start with more lip angle..then maybe a bit wider bill. Good old Elmers rubber cement will hold your bills in place for test swims and you can easily remove the bill and try several styles at one time.When you find the bill you want epoxy it in place
    2 points
  6. Using a simi sharp board like I uae for my vise I take the closed tabs with each hand in my fingers and run the tab back and fourth a hald dozen time to free up the matted material.
    2 points
  7. I have been using a cheap pair of gate cutters from Barlow’s. I’ve cut several thousand sprus off and only sharpened them a few times.
    2 points
  8. This is the chart I use as a reference guide when someone asks for a "crayfish" colored bait. Allen
    2 points
  9. Looks like if you extend the loop out the right side insead of the left and y ou should be golden. Arne.
    2 points
  10. The way you help people is why I buy most of my products from you. Thank you for what you do.
    2 points
  11. Never use your good sprue cutter for anything but cutting lead. Just touching them on a hook shank will dull them. I used to wrap the shank on a mold that flashed a bit on the shank. About three times around the shank and one was dull. all that said, I like the Xuron flush cutters. I’ll copy and paste a pair but they have a bunch available. Really high quality tools. https://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/84
    2 points
  12. The other day I finished a few Kenai Peninsula Alaska themed fishing lures made from pressed pennies. My dapping skills still need work. And I'm not sure the blades will spin. But the spoons should work. I have 3 different ones. A Kenai river jumping fish and a Kenai Peninsula moose and bear. Though the words are hard to read. I used the older 1982 and before all copper pennies. These were polished with #6 Rouge using a dremel. They ended up about the same size as a #3 French blade. Going to find some other pressed penny machines to try this out with later this summer
    1 point
  13. There is always a chance to sell it to one person but not always likely. Biggest problem I see is shipping cost....List it and see is the only way.
    1 point
  14. Can not answer your question about acid. But always wear a mask and have a vent fan running too!!
    1 point
  15. Wow, that's pretty interesting. I didn't know that there were so many.
    1 point
  16. I am a bit late to the party but one piece gliders can absolutely swim like a 2 piece glider. My glides swim with a nice S-pattern and the fall perfectly horizontal with a shimmy. Because they sink perfectly horizontal with a slow fall, they will sink to the bottom and stand on their hooks without falling over. Making the belly thinner than the top and putting the weight as low as you can gives you a very strong shimmy on the fall. I won a fair amount of money with these baits in tournaments. Smallmouths in crystal clear water love them and will come up from 20 feet to get them. I also found this that might be used as a reference. Bulletproof Glide Desenho e modelos Bait | Homemade fishing lures, Custom fishing lure, Fishing bait (pinterest.com.mx)
    1 point
  17. jigs are easy. buy a do-it mold . crankbaits will require a bit more things to build baits.
    1 point
  18. Nope. Won't work. Automotive paint (specifically the clears) are designed to harden and create a protective layer over your base coat. Whereas the paints supplied by Lure Works (SB Coat, Co-Lure Coat and VPI) are formulated specifically to bond to PVC and remain flexible.
    1 point
  19. I think the spring needs to be moved 90* from its position. The weight needs to move front to back because of the position of pull movement.
    1 point
  20. I was disappointed with the short duration of the vibrations with the one I had years ago. Probably a bad idea but I was just thinking some mercury sloshing back and forth in a small glass vial in a well balanced lure might give longer lasting movements and a little flash too ?
    1 point
  21. I located and purchased one of the old throbbers from eBay. Perhaps the newer Acme Pulse works better. The original is to heavy and the weight of the plastic bait kills any vibration from the spring..Nathan
    1 point
  22. Do-it molds make an aluminum mold "Roundhead Jig no collar" Model : JNR-12-48 It has 6) 1/8 oz cavities and 6) 1/4 oz cavities . you could widen the hook slot with a Dremel tool to accept the keeper for a lot less money than having a mold made and much faster also .
    1 point
  23. For your first question, I use two ways to increase buoyancy. First, I increase buoyancy by drill holes in the top/back of my baits, and gluing discs from aluminum cans over them, to trap air inside and I cover the discs with a thin coat of bondo, so I can sand the bondo down to follow the bait's contours. When I'm done sanding/shaping, I add a drop or two of runny super glue to strengthen the bondo disc patch area. Second, I actually use the natural buoyancy of the bait's material, because I use either wood or PVC trim board to make my baits from. I shape my baits with a V cross section, like the cross section of a battleship, so there is more buoyant material higher in the bait. That way I can add less ballast and still get a stable bait that is lighter and more active. Plus that shape keeps the bait from rolling or blowing out on a fast retrieve. As to the second question, I've found that the wider the body and the wider the bill, the wider and more exaggerated the wobble. The reverse is also the case. A flatter sided body and narrower bill will have less wobble. That's why most commercial flat sided cranks also have narrower bills. As far as how modifying your bait will affect it, every bait is different. When I modify a bait, I do it one thing at a time, so I can see what works, and know that I will ruin some bait in the process. I also use unpainted cheap knockoff blanks to do my experimenting on, so I'm not out a lot of money if they get ruined. I hope this helps.
    1 point
  24. This is the most awesome colored craw I have ever seen. I doubt you could get any more realistic if you were using live crawfish! I cannot make out what colorants you used. Any chance you'd care to share the recipe?
    1 point
  25. what do the quarters look like? sorry
    1 point
  26. Thank You for the explanation. With that said, what you made is pretty cool.
    1 point
  27. LureWorks Black Plum Dye 225 might be a better choice than Plum Dye 179. Plum Dye 179 has some hi-lite blue pearl powder which I don't think that bait has any of that in it.
    1 point
  28. Whether or not they catch fish they are a sight to behold.
    1 point
  29. I did something similar back in the '70s and my first two boys wore the trout out with them.
    1 point
  30. I have both Poison Tail molds, the Snootie mold and the Grass jig mold. They are all good jigs to use for swim jigs. Reason being they have a straight eye versus a flat wire which will always catch more grass. I personally like the Snootie jig because it has a 60• eyelet. This lets the jig run more parallel to the weeds if you tie a loop knot. The good thing about all three of these is that they go down to 1/8 oz which is what I use most. You can’t really go wrong with any of them. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground.
    1 point
  31. Thanks, I'm from Portugal, it is very difficult to get good quality colorants, I will try to order that one
    1 point
  32. I have never used this for lure making but figured I would post because someone may find use for it.
    1 point
  33. https://acmtackle.com/products/pulsecod-jr
    1 point
  34. Jigmeister, Thank you for your help!..I’m a little nervous about searching “VIBRATING THROBBER”..Lol..Nathan
    1 point
  35. Your biggest problem (and the problem most are going to have working with that old cookbook) is the recipes are so old the pigments used in them are no longer available or have changed. That Berkley Camo colour was cooked up by Del @ DelMart 21 years ago using the pigments that haven't been available for a long time. Would probably be best to grab a pack and see if you can match a sample you have in hand using pigments that are readily available.
    1 point
  36. He doesn't use any salt in any of his baits, but I thought he'd be spending just as much (if not more) on softener. That's why he's decided to go the sample route.
    1 point
  37. It does, but I'm only mixing at most two cups of plastic, maybe four if I'm making laminates. I'm also using a lot of salt and glass beads. The stickbaits are nice and soft and wiggly and cast a mile. I make mine at around 12grams I fish a lot of deep water.
    1 point
  38. when I got barrels they only had 50 gallons in um from Calhouns. any way 2 qts to 50 gallons is just over an ounce per gallon. by my figures.
    1 point
  39. That’s a great technique. Thanks for sharing. I have lots of skirts stuck like that. PITB.
    1 point
  40. Thank you, brother. I think we might be in the same ballpark. Now I've gotta do my math and that's never a good thing.
    1 point
  41. I don’t sand or file. I use a dull knife and wipe the blade across the mark left by the cutters. That flattens it out so it doesn’t show after painting.
    1 point
  42. It looks like a 702 to me
    1 point
  43. Then take your marbles and go play somewhere else if all you're going to do is complain about them. I'm not 100% up to date with this stuff. Fat Guys would be a solid place to get it though. I believe Jeff stopped because of that and they jacked his pricing up on him. I do know that anything Calhoun is the previous formula they've had for years. when they tweaked it everyone complained, including the production customers.
    1 point
  44. I've never had a problem with their plastic at all. You can get degassed. You can call them & ask pretty much anything you want or you can look for any post by McLuvin on here & shoot him a message too.
    1 point
  45. To me salt is a pain to work with. I use soft plastic and weighted wacky heads.
    1 point
  46. This. But be aware the more color you'll need and even though the blend may be a "super soft", you'll still need to add softener. If you really want to get to know the weight of your baits get yourself a cheap digital scale from Amazon. One that can be set to weigh grams. I use MF plastic, and I find that I use 6oz of plastic, and add enough salt to raise the volume to 8oz. And remember to write your recipes down.
    1 point
  47. 1st off , it will be tough to save any money by making your own baits. It is a great hobby, but can get expensive to buy all the neat molds and colors and such . Now to sell -- It is a very tough competitive market . Even tougher now that Facebook has brought in hundreds of new bait makers. Make sure you have a market for your stuff before you start. Be prepared to pay the 10% excise tax + your state sales tax if you are at the retail end . You will get a few more guys to chime in and give you more info on the Pros and Cons. You can make it work but it will take time and money . Good luck on what ever you do .
    1 point
  48. Bryan, I have not seen the 5/64 (.078) pins in teflon, reason being is they are not a std size. However like anything else it can be custom made which would be cost prohibitive. So what I do is this. You can either buy .078 stn stl rod and cut it into 1" pieces, and use that or you can buy severl 5/64 drill bits ( that's what I use), and stick the non flured end into the mold up against the hook. This works for me. There are many other things you can use as well, howeve you want the 5/64 diameter, and I know they make drill bits that size, so it's an easy find.
    1 point
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