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  1. Sometimes inaction is the trigger - like when a Muskie hits it on the pause. I have seen prey freeze when faced with a predator. Some fish attack a school, stunning or wounding prey. This might be another case where inaction triggers a strike.
    3 points
  2. I keep going back to this archived web site from across the pond. They specialize in wooden baits so the patterns that they give can help. http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html Click on crankbait, jerkbaits or Surface. Inside that tab are more options. These are proven lures so that should get you started.
    3 points
  3. I have the one linked below and it does everything that I need. I also have the wire forming conversion kit. Can't say it's the best because everyone has their own personal opinion. But I really like mine. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Wire-Forming-Tool https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Wire-Forming-Tool-Conversion-Kit
    2 points
  4. @21xdc, I tried that on some cheep hooks but they didn't look quite right. I'll still stick with bending wire if I don't find produced counterparts. @BigEpp, Should have mentioned, those aren't mine. I grabbed that pic off the net somewhere. I am going for that vintage look though, gotta get on my wife to carve them out for me, she's the wood worker. @Mark, The little farts seem love them. Just wait till you get them in the boat and they want to play with them while your trying to fish. Great times! Anyone else have some fun alternative uses for their lures since were on
    2 points
  5. RIP Del.....one of the best .......
    2 points
  6. I just found out that Del Wilcox of Delmart molds passed yesterday morning. One of they guys who helped a lot of us get started in this addiction. RIP my friend.
    2 points
  7. First, the source and material. I just by the shafts with one end closed and the other I close with my wire bender. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts As for diameter, I use a micrometer (analog or digital) and measure spinners that are close to what I want to make. I think you will find that there is quite a range. For example, Rooster Tail used a much thinner wire than any other spinner of that size, but when the bend, and the bend often, they are useful only to cut apart for materials. For material, I don't worry about it when I buy the premade shafts. If
    2 points
  8. I’ve never seen those, they must be new? My questions are: are they crystal clear? How durable is the finish? What is the cost? Is this a pure UV cured resin or is it a special formulation? No wax flakes to promote surface hardness like their dual cure formula designed for surf boards, I hope? what we need is a guinea pig to test this stuff. I nominate..... Nathan!
    2 points
  9. Lure templates as a search will pop up what you are looking for. Most lures have side profile pictures so can just copy and paste into paint and resize as needed. Can then make a template for top down. Honestly pretty easy to just draw something up with a ruler, French curve, and circle template. I have also just free hand a lot lures. Just start whittling away what shouldn't be there. A couple links to solid preforming baits below. http://learnhowtomakefishinglures.blogspot.com/2014/03/free-fishing-lure-templates.html
    2 points
  10. Try one with just the gold first, adding the beads, and make one up with the same painted one you have with the additional beads. The painting may make no difference.
    2 points
  11. It's not the weight, it is the angle of the blade relative to the width of the body and first couple of beads. On your 2nd from the left and the third, you have a micro bead than a small brass bead. Add at least one, maybe two. Below that hoj can add your weight back in. Your blades may be part of the problem. They looked like you painted them, so how much heavier are they than original. If the weight is too much, it slows down the spin. It would probably need to be 30% or more heavier than before the added paint. You are close, very close. Someday I will take the time to dra
    2 points
  12. Not sure what the expectations of this product were or are. Just to explain what it is from what I have recieved. It is hilite put on clear film and cut into glitter. An explosion of color is not what you get. But you can get a transparent bait with flashes of the color you choose. Clear and light smoke color will get you the highest quality affect. Putting it in an opaque color will not yield a result that is worth the effort to put it in.
    2 points
  13. Best wire forming tool for me is jewelery pliers. One side is a cone and the other side is a curved channel matching the cone. Not the more common double cone style you'll find at the dollar store. The wire may pinch a bit on the sides, but I round off the edges on the cup side with a file. These pliers along with a needle nose with smooth jaws to make some tight wraps. Making different size loop, bends or angles, maybe only with pliers?
    1 point
  14. He’ll have a blast…Take some advice from one grandpa to another..Buy a dozen night crawlers..built in fun for a kids in a container..That’s what I do with my grandsons..works every time!!..Nathan
    1 point
  15. I'm the same. Many colors, types of baits. Bit in my 50 plus years of fishing I find I fish a variety of waters, fresh and salt. Unless you and I are fishing the same waters, my needs are for different colors for the different baits. I use glow colors for stripers at night. Clear stickbaits with bright glitter for my gin clear lakes. When I go out fishing, I go loaded for bear. I have no idea why the fish want a specific item on any given day. I'm on the east coast. Water levels are extremely high here. so I fish another different condition. If every day were the same, if every lake were
    1 point
  16. Vanbass, just saw this…Pledge can work great as a protection coat for your paint if your chosen top coat doesn’t want to play nice..just dip..let dry and then top coat…As for the old and new formulas on the Pledge..It’s probably been 8-10 years since it changed…I believe if you google you’ll find more information on it..Nathan
    1 point
  17. @mark poulson Thank Mark - appreciate your help! Van
    1 point
  18. Take a look at Missle Baits - they have a bunch of really cool combos. I always start by browsing what's out there. They have a color that's amber/orange outer and green pumpkin core which is really cool.... and another with a watermelon outer and red core... I bought a bag of each just to see them in real life and they look great. Personally - I like the look of many of the baits with a clear or smoke outer with some highlight or a light amount of glitter and then a vibrant color inside - green/purple/etc.... It's really hard to go wrong with core shots - they just seem to look cool re
    1 point
  19. Take a look at kalin's 6 , 8 and 10 inch grubs. Big grubs with a wide tail for big fish.
    1 point
  20. I have inventory that I bought from the original U.S. maker of the assassinator brand. However, when they're gone, they're gone for good. Moss sporting goods on Ebay. Ebay User i.d. 9889alvin0 thanks! Al
    1 point
  21. You can get just about any lure design to swim but talking guaranteed SUCCESSFUL designs, I favor copying actual commercial baits. If you build them for your own fishing and not for sale, it’s no sin. I started copying baits by simply tracing a pic and working from there. That was not sufficient to get a good copy. What you need to do is buy a bait and get exact measures and weights. That’s needed especially to copy the cross-sectional shape of the body and get a finished target weight. From there, it’s a straightforward process of weighing components and subtracting the total from the ta
    1 point
  22. O.051 is what I use most for pike, Lakers, and salmon
    1 point
  23. I buy little coils of stainless steel orthodontic wire 50g / 1.76oz each. Diameters range from .5mm / 0.0196" or 1/64" .6mm, .7mm, .8mm, .9mm, 1mm / .0393" or 3/64" you can also find 1.5mm / .059 or 1/16" .5mm might be between 30 to 40 feet. For $2.50 CAD all totaled delivered for each one. When using small diameter wire, I had a problem with the holes of a clevis being to large and making the whole clevis sit off-center on a thin diameter wire. To much wobble or never being lined up right to begin with. A clevis with holes just slightly larger then the wire se
    1 point
  24. I didn’t know Del but sad to here of his passing. I have a very nice ten cavity senko mold of his. Wish I had more of his stuff, really. Very talented moldmaker, for sure. Prayers to his family….
    1 point
  25. Well I tipped one with a 1/4oz jig head with a twin tail grub. Two casts and I caught a small pike. He beat up the wire pretty good. Unfortunately I lost it to the rocks shortly after It does work and will try one of the others in an are with more walleye and less pike or maybe a perch lake presently how it is constructed I see it as more of a panfish lure and see potential for crappie. How I chose to use it I would say it fishes similar to a beetle spin. Unfortunately my area is not a panfish area here is proof little pike will eat it though
    1 point
  26. kind of an open question. need more information. your worm? my worm? size? just bulk in box? color requirements? each of these affects setup and costs, thus minimums. I can help but need info to answer better.
    1 point
  27. Here is a gill detail I came up with ( at least have not seen before ) , I am making a top water and flat sided crankbait and will be layering a light color next to collar and darker on top for contrast . Think this will be cool detail
    1 point
  28. Interesting read. Being new to building hard baits I'm curious as to what (experienced) people are doing. When selecting a lure I consider its working depth and the type of action it has, color and pattern are chosen based on water clarity and light penetration. My thinking is that you have to present the lure to the fish where they are (within the range they are willing to chase) and the action should suit their mood. In all of the discussions (above) of color and pattern little was said if the lure was catching fish during prime time when they were feeding heavily or of it
    1 point
  29. I would do a test first. Sometimes soft plastics melt hard plastic.
    1 point
  30. I should have seen that one coming BobP…It appears no one is familiar with it ( or is not saying anything lol)..I’ll do a little research and see what I can find out and report back..Nathan
    1 point
  31. I try to remember that I'm trying to make the bait look alive, and wounded. For me, that's what triggers bites, and you can get that action with almost any lure if you work it right.
    1 point
  32. The Ukrainian mold maker sells molds that are close. Bait molds .com. I have the 3.8 fat impact. It’s pretty close no hook slot but it doesn’t matter to me. The only thing I will say is that it takes forever to get a mold from them. Usually about a month to two. the color looks like a watermelon green to me.
    1 point
  33. If you've found that the larger blades work better, I'd use that as a starting point in trying to figure out how to get the smaller ones to work. I'd look at the ratio of blade length to bait length, distance from back end of blade to lure body, wire diameter, rear treble size, basically every variable, and change them one at a time until I got something that worked. Fortunately you can salvage and reuse just about everything except the wire, so do some experimenting in the bathtub, but not while you're in it. Hahaha
    1 point
  34. I agree with this guy
    1 point
  35. Was expecting a little more flash than regular or hologram glitter. Maybe a little more flash or iridescence? I tried some clear, nice results but I don't make any clear baits. I did try an opaque stick bait. That was for an order I had. Regular glitter was heads and tails above the shine of the sparkle. Scratching my head over that one. Tonight a tried a white pearl smoke with the .035 violet. Not bad, but I can see where the .015 would certainly be a better choice. Interestingly, using MF crayfish color with the .035 violet the baits took on a violet color. Before you say I overhea
    1 point
  36. I talked to them about the product, they sure weren't sure about a couple of things. Call them and they are helpful to make sure i'm not mis quoting them. They could not tell me if heat denting was any better than PVC. They were not sure about pigments and colorants to use and no recommendations, they said they would wait for users to use the product then make recommendations. I thought that was a strange response, then they said they might have pigments and colorants in a couple months. I asked them a lot of questions but forgot the most important and that is how toxic this stuff is.
    1 point
  37. The sparkle violet .015 in smoke is one of our top selling colors & one of my personal favorites to fish. I've tried some of the sparkle green but it isn't as heat resistant as the violet. The sparkle violet usually holds up well through a gallon run but the green not so much.
    1 point
  38. If power carving this can be an issue. Never had any issues with a knife. That said a quick pass with a propane torch, lighter, etc.. will get rid of the basswood fuzz. Can also give quick spray of shellac then sand if getting caught chasing the problem.
    1 point
  39. Yes, and no. That product has cleaners in it, and the cleaners are said to cause issues, BUT I have not tried it myself. The stuff I know works is one of the two of these(I prefer gloss): 1) https://www.hobbylobby.com/search?q=minwax+polycrylic%3Arelevance&quickview=80958532 Mix this down with 15% water to use it in an airbrush. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-Matte-Water-Based-Polyurethane-Actual-Net-Contents-11-5-fl-oz/1000447085?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-219-_-interiorstains-_-1000447085-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=C
    1 point
  40. Thanks guys I found a paper cutter for free and was able to use it to do this!
    1 point
  41. Try using a good quality 180 grit wet-dry sandpaper (the black stuff, you can usually find it in the automotive section of the hardware store) and a sanding block to shape your lips. G10 or FR4 is tough stuff and regular sandpaper will dull/break down quickly. Once the sandpaper is dull it is difficult to control. I (strongly) recommend using a good dust mask and working in a well ventilated area. The dust from G10 or FR4 (cured resin and glass fibers) is pretty nasty. Van
    1 point
  42. I do exactly as Mark does it. But it depends on the thickness of the G10. I use 1/32” G10 and Tin snips cut it easily. I got my Wiss compound snips from Home Depot a decade ago for about $12.
    1 point
  43. The only soft plastic molds I'm seeing are Do-It Molds, am I missing something?
    1 point
  44. Interesting video. I think I had the wrong idea about jerk baits, but I have never used one or built one. The video does demonstrate how the swim angle is relative to the retrieval speed, and backs up the argument that every lipped lure has a hunting speed, but this is just a side note. It looks like the most erratic action occurs when the lip is vertical, this too makes sense, as it is in this lip attitude that the hunt occurs. I guess it is nice for the lure to 'spring back' to horizontal, and for the lure to have a nice movement on a steady retrieve, but I think that these ar
    1 point
  45. It does give an idea on some proven jerk bait actions I think a lot of people overlook jerk baits and focus on baits like cranks they can just retrieve in stead. Personally I enjoy lures that I add a lot to the action by how I retrieve them personally I like jerk baits that can be worked both fast and extremely slow are ideal. Ones that give off a lot of action with short jerks and rises or sinks really slow a lipped jerk bait design is on my to do list along with a perfecting a hybrid pull bait I am happy with. A soft tail jerk bait has been an option floating in my head too
    1 point
  46. I am not sure about a chart, but if I was looking for a blank comparable to a Loomis, I would reach out to Northfork Composites.
    1 point
  47. That is exactly my train of thought Caught a lot of fish on plain white lures and lots on sealed wood without paint well testing. I actually go for a basic white lure by choice often
    1 point
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