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  1. Exx1976 - I do not understand you. I have refrained from posting this sentiment before. You put a lot of effort in, making excellent contributions to the TU community, gaining a lot of respect. And then, you seem to have a brain fart and chop someone off at the knees for very little reason. I am not blame free, I too have had my moments of indiscretion. I suggest you think your more acidic replies through before hitting the reply button! Dave
    11 points
  2. Possibly inspired by divine intervention or alien telepathic communication, you come up with a great idea for a lure. You spend several hours shaping the body. It comes out perfectly symmetrical. The lip slot is perfectly straight. You seal the bait and get the perfect ballast placement in your test tub. You drill the ballast hole and have no wood splintering. After installing the ballast, you re-seal the lure for added protection. You are so excited about your creation you decide to take the lure to the unfrozen portion of a small river on a cloudy dreary 30 degree day to test the action. You brave walking over slippery rocks to get to the shore, nearly face planting several times. The sun breaks through the clouds as you tie the lure on. You feel the warmth on your face as you make the first cast. The lure performs better than you imagined. As you watch the lure’s amazing action, a huge bass comes up from the depths and blasts your lure despite the lure being unpainted and the near freezing water temperature. You get no hook up because you are testing with bent over trebles to prevent a snag. You are ecstatic about all of the monsters that will fall to the lure when it is finished in all its glory. The action is so good that on the next cast a bald eagle takes a dive at the lure. You frantically reel the lure in to prevent the eagle from stealing your precious. After your lure’s lucky escape, you get back to the shop and wait for the lure to dry for painting. After resisting the urge to paint the lure too soon, you are finally able to continue your masterpiece. With great skill and effort, you apply an incredibly detailed paint job with gill plates, fins, scales, 32 different colors, perfect shading and blending, the works. It comes out flawless. The ghosts of Michelangelo and James Heddon appear before you and inspect the lure. They simultaneously say ‘sweet’ as they disappear. You wait for the paint to thoroughly dry. You put the lure on your turner. You mix the epoxy which comes out crystal clear and bubble free. You apply a nice even epoxy coat, not too thin, not too thick. You flip the switch on the rotisserie motor. The lure starts its graceful rotation. Then… Disaster. The lure turns 2 inches before it falls out of the holding clips because you did not set the clips securely. The lure bounces off the table and onto the floor. You are momentarily stunned. You pick the lure up and see that your clear coat is now a gelatinous mess encrusted with vilest shop debris. Saw dust, grit, hair, grease blobs, clipped off fishing line bits, even a small brad nail, yup, it’s all on your bait now. You start to feel grief, but you realize you can scrape off the epoxy and sand the ruined paint, repaint, and maybe salvage the situation. Then, like a lightning bolt from the sky, it hits you; the crushing weight of your own stupidity. You realize the fall also cracked the lure’s lip. Your only solace is cracking a cold beer and weeping in the corner. This is what the beer frig is for.
    7 points
  3. here are some videos, not the best but you get the idea. https://youtu.be/KPsVzycUTf0 https://youtu.be/YY0KLwPxOkY https://youtu.be/XjENNdaTFR4
    6 points
  4. As I do not build gliders or jerk baits, all that I can do is throw a lot of theory out there, to help you understand how the lure works. Understanding the theory helps the builder to design a lure to take advantage of the forces accordingly. Of course, experienced glider builders will have already figured this stuff out even if they do not know the reasons why their lures work. Experience is a valuable tool, theory only gives you a ‘leg up’ at the start. As you have already figured out, this is a very complex issue with multiple factors to be taken in to consideration. The apparent ideal solution for a lure to swim a long distance with efficiency is an arrow with all the weight at the front. But we already know that this would not work in water as it does in air because of the nose down attitude, like I said; multiple factors. Also, the super aerodynamic shape of an arrow is designed NOT to produce vortices. When we fire an arrow in air for maximum distance, we apply great force and we aim up at 45°, and due to air resistance, the arrow falls at 70°+. Target sports for darts and archery only use the top of the flight arc. Also the arrow is designed not to swing from side to side, a definite requirement of the lure. As for the lure; we want it to travel in a straight line as far as possible, then on the next pull, we want the same again only in a different/opposite direction (left/right). So, what causes this desired change of direction? The answer is vortices, my favourite subject. A waggling lipped lure generates a rapid series of vortices that cause the lure to waggle left and right. The sharp lip causes vortices to be created at a relatively low speed, and the theory of the ‘Kármán vortex street’ causes the vortices to rapidly alternate left/right. But still, the lipped lure requires a minimum speed to operate. The lipless glider still creates vortices but has a much higher minimum speed to create the vortex. The operation of the lure is to tug or jerk the lure. A single vortex is created and no more as the lure is already slowed below the vortex threshold. This swirling vortex sucks on the rear half of the lure body causing it to change direction. The next jerk causes the vortex to form across the back of the lure and sucks it in the opposite direction. As the lure slows down, that single vortex is still there, working on the lure, sucking it further around. This effect can be seen on multiple section swim-baits; a steady, constant retrieve causes alternating vortices that act on the rear of the lure causing that beautiful snake action. BUT, if you jerk the jointed swim-bait, the lure curls around even 90° and beyond. Check out the video, you can almost see the vortex sucking the lure around in the jerk sections with a little imagination. The above is the basic mechanics of what is going on. Now we have to figure out how to use the mechanics, the theory, to make the glider lure swim how we want. To start with, I use an analogy that I have talked about many times; Grab a 2 feet length of dowel in the middle in your fist. Rotate your wrist rapidly left and right. The dowel swings fairly easily. Now add ¼ pound of lead at each end of the dowel and repeat. The dowel is much more difficult to swing left and right. Now put the two weights at the center of the dowel and repeat. Once again, the dowel swings easily. This is the effect of inertia. We want the glider to change direction but we want to resist the continuing change of direction. The solution is to increase resistance to direction change by increasing inertia. By placing weight at the front and rear we increase inertia and resist the change of direction. But as always, design is a compromise. If the inertia of the lure is too great then the change of direction will be minimal or even nonexistent. You may end up with a straight swimming torpedo. Another feature is the depth of the lure body that the suction of the vortex acts upon. You may think that a deeper body with a larger surface area would resist the side movement, this would be incorrect at least according to theory; the suction force of the vortex acts on the side surface area of the lure, reduce the area and reduce the force. But yet again, design is a compromise. If you reduce your lure to a torpedo cylinder, no vortex will be created in the first place. If your lure swings excessively as it slows down then consider reducing the body depth. The reduced depth will also reduce resistance to forward motion. Once the glide motion clears the vortex, it will travel aerodynamically like a torpedo. We only require the vortex sucking effect at the initial tug of the lure, if the glider can swim clear of the vortex then it will continue in a straight line for more distance. If the glide distance is short and the lure continues to turn; reduce body depth and/or extend the weights to front and rear. If the lure does not change direction then no vortex has been created, you have a torpedo. You can add a flat to the top of the nose to help the vortex form, or increase the depth on the next build. Gliders need to naturally float horizontal, but the rest is a compromise between body depth and ballast distribution. Dave
    6 points
  5. In my post about getting the screw eye holes in the EXACT middle of the lure, I had mentioned a jig I made for use with a flush trim bit on a router table. It occurred to me that some folks might like to see it. So, here it is: Used 1/2" plywood for the base, and did the profile for the back of the lure on the band saw and then the belt sander. Drilled 5/16" holes, then used a forstner bit to recess the heads of the t-bolts so it would sit flat on the router table and the t-bolts wouldn't scratch things up. Used a 3/8" trim bit to route the slots into a piece of 3/4" plywood. Got the t-bolts, the knobs, and the toggles all from Amazon for like $15 or something like that. I can create additional 1/2" plywood templates, and just move the hold down from base to base depending on what lure I want to produce. The base is 24" wide and the back of it is 6" away from the back of the lure (where the router bit would be). The bait this makes is 8" long, so I've got plenty of room to keep my hands away from the router bit. Only change I think I'm going to make it to add some fender washers under the knobs. This particular setup works great for this lure since the belly is flat (all except for by the nose, but that takes 5 seconds on the belt sander to create that small contour). However, if I decide to make one in the future that has a contoured belly, it would be easy to do. I'd just create another base from 1/2" plywood, and if the lure was 8" long again I'd do the back profile maybe 3.5" off one end, and then the belly profile 3.5" off the other end, leaving a 1" gap between the two profiles. Then I would cut another piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut the negative of the back contour into it, then add toggles. I'd use the toggle base shown in these photos with the flat side to get the back profile, and then I'd flip the bait over, move it to the belly profile side of the template, and the back would fit into the toggle base then. Hopefully I explained that well enough. I'll be sure to come back and post pics when I do it. As my buddy says: "I used my tools to make tools to use my tools."
    5 points
  6. Gained about $2000 or more in sales last year just by giving away a handful of blemish lures at lakes that cost me maybe $100 in materials. It’s even better when the father of the kid calls me to buy some lures because his kid out fished him that day. Nothing sells lures better then fisherman seeing them catch fish I tell every kid that I give a lure to it’s their lure and Dad is not allowed to use it Think of it as investing in advertisement
    5 points
  7. @Skeeter what I know that is different about it is that it was designed to have no toxic fumes because several well known lure makers had died of cancer and Joe, the guy that developed it, did so as a response to that. As far as anything about the product that makes it more suited to lure making I am not sure. It does work like a charm though. First time using it and I got the best, nearly flawless topcoat I’ve ever gotten:
    5 points
  8. Rubbish, the dolphin showed no interest in the lure what so ever! Just kidding, great work, looks amazing Dave
    5 points
  9. Here is a gill detail I came up with ( at least have not seen before ) , I am making a top water and flat sided crankbait and will be layering a light color next to collar and darker on top for contrast . Think this will be cool detail
    4 points
  10. If one person was always right he/she would own the fishing industry, but that is not the case!! We all have had great years followed by not so great years.... as conditions change from year to year so does the fishing.
    4 points
  11. Like most opinion pieces put out by fisherman I believe some of it holds merit but a lot of it is just opinion biased on his fishing style My opinion attraction is based on flicker/flash, noise/vibration and overall visibility true triggering traits are that show weakness/opportunity or create the fish to fear a loss of opportunity. Weakness is a pause, fall, or small twitch showing struggles to move. Drawing on a now or never response is a long pull/jerk, variation in speed and veering to the side Above is the main factors I consider when creating a lure and what I choose to fish with. Water color is acknowledged but I also consider how close my presentation will be to the fish. For example I have caught lots of bass in muddy water flipping dark color lizards into cover. I have also had great results trolling Lakers with bright noisy crank baits in crystal clear water One I am dropping on the fishes nose the other I am drawing fish in from a distance There is a ton of other factors I consider but it would be writing a novel lol We all have our opinions and in the end if it works keep doing it. If not change something
    4 points
  12. I work for a large company in a product development role. I can tell you this, the bigger the company the less they care if the product "works" right. What they need to do is sell stuff profitably good bad or otherwise. Most have great ideas internally that never see daylight due to timing, market or whatever. Personally if i had a great bait that i could reproduce consistent quality catches and is manufacturable, you'd be better off doing an LLC. There is enough power in social media these days to not need the big companies anymore. Its a great time for entrepreneurs imho.
    4 points
  13. Let me rephrase that. They come out of the mold & they are oilier when warm until they've had time tocool & cure, but after a little time i really like the results. I think it's a little clearer than the calhouns too. Anyway it being a different plastic & me getting use to the slight differences between it & calhouns i'm completely satisfied with the baitplastics stuff.
    4 points
  14. Gliders will glide better if tapered, better as in farther. The more torpedo shaped the better in that respect. A lipped crank bait can be either, but as Hillbilly said, shape can and will change action (some better and some worse).
    4 points
  15. I have a different opinion on what it takes to do this for a living. If you don’t like what you are doing now then it makes it easier to maybe change. While all the other posts are spot on there is another option. While it’s nice to have your own product and put them in shops you could on the other hand pour for someone who has the task of selling them. Most people here will tell you it is very hard to make a profit making baits but I know some who make a lot of money doing so. And it is much more than you might think. I will not mention exact numbers because you need to know that it is a lot of WORK. Yes that four letter word. Working with small larger company’s can be very profitable. But never let them dominate your time because if they cut you off then you are screwed. Do less work for more company’s and all your eggs will not be in the same basket. You will have to understand how you utilize your time is key to making baits. Waiting is not an option you need to keep doing something to get ahead. Keep your day job for say 6 months. Take the rest of your time investing in to your bait business. Get to a point that you can have enough molds and a system to pour that will get you where you need to be. Whatever system you use to pour you need to be able to change colors fast so you don’t have to wait. With a small guy you have to do smaller runs and multiple colors a day to make it work. For much more on how to do it you can pm me and I can enlighten you for days. Your dream can happen and you can do it if you want to WORK.
    4 points
  16. First you need to be brutally honest with the numbers. Many guys aren't. The time spent, the cost of materials, etc.. all end up disappearing when they think about how much they are making. One also need to look at what they really make at their job including benefits. I will use the average US salary of 38K (I don't consider this as a well paying job). Currently I get health insurance, dental and vision insurance, 10 paid holidays, 4 weeks paid vacation, sick time, short term disability, long term disability, 401 k match, social security, gym membership, life insurance, bonus, and other perks. At one time we also had an ESOP plan that added up to a nice chunk of money after a few years. I work 40 hrs a week. So for me to quit I have to match the effort and total compensation above. Everyone is different just something to include in thinking. For some it wouldn't be as difficult as they may be covered on spouse insurance, don't worry about life insurance, retirement, etc.... Add start up costs, depreciation of equipment, write offs, etc...into the equation. So yes it can be done. Statistically you will not be successful but the more thought and research you put into it the more likely you are to succeed.
    4 points
  17. I wouldn't be concerned with the tape, but with what’s under it. Raw wood? Foam? Expanded pvc trim? I make wood baits and foil them. There has to be a waterproof/gas proof coating under the foil or any heating of the lure will cause outgassing and bubbled foil (whether heated by you when finishing the lure or by the user storing the lure in a hot compartment).
    4 points
  18. I guess if I was in the lure business, mine would be labelled 'NOT made in USA'. Dave
    4 points
  19. JD - The spherical domain enclosed by the tall man's spell of 4πr³/3 is an intriguing and fascinating subject. It is the simplest shape and yet the most difficult to carve. I have actually experimented with spherically derived shapes and the resulting actions are interesting. If you pull a sphere through water you get a pure spiral action. I do most of my cranial development work while sleeping, so you could say that I work in an alternative universe Dave
    4 points
  20. You are correct and many would find making baits is a losing endeavor if they put any dollar value on their time. Building cranks one off is about the least efficient way to make cranks. Multiples pay off as less time is wasted setting up tools, measurements, etc.. Some aspects are rather quick so may just knock out a bunch of blanks for future use. May take 30 minutes and drill all the hook hanger and belly weights, etc.. (jig holds the blank in position on drill press). I will just keep blanks in plastic shoe boxes or shallow tool box trays in different stages. If time really becomes important and you don't mind switching media. Taking a master and molding it a few times will allow you to really kick out finished baits in a hurry.
    4 points
  21. People do not buy hand made baits because they are cheap, they buy because the lure is unique and of the highest quality. Your bait has to gain a reputation for catching MORE fish than the chunk of plastic on the shelf at Walmart. Yes, you need a pro angler on board who believes in your lure. A Kevin Van Dam is not going to get the job done, people will not attribute his success to the lure but to the man himself. I would take my lure to a struggling pro, get him to try the lure, prove that it is a fish magnet, then you can both retire on the lure's success. Only my opinion; charging $10ph is not doing you or your lure's reputation any good at all, you might as well just give them away. No, I am not rich. I cannot afford to live in my birth country of UK and certainly could not afford to live in USA. A few years ago, I lowered my charge rate to $25ph to do some mold design work. I regretted that decision, it stuck in my throat and formed an indigestible knot in my belly. I vowed never to do that again. My last paid design job was $100ph although I could be tempted out of bed for $70ph for a short engagement. Like I said, not rich. My philosophy was always work to live, not live to work. Here is a quote from George Best: "I spent a lot of my money on booze, birds and fast cars, the rest I just squandered." Dave
    4 points
  22. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length because I used big gate eye screws for hardware. The V cuts for the joints don’t mesh perfectly and are ‘close enough’. I made numerous mistakes during its construction. I was so disappointed with its appearance that I was ashamed to fish with it initially. Dicky Moe was my first attempt at a big bait. I wanted to make it a simple design. I started with a section of 1-1/8” diameter poplar dowel. I just rounded the nose and tapered the back half of the bait down a bit. It is clunky and amateurish. I screwed up the eye sockets. I eyeballed the locations with a hand drill (no pun intended). The eyes are not in the same spot on both sides. The drill bit walked making the edges of the sockets jagged and not perfectly round. The lure looks a bit cross-eyed. I made another mistake in sealing the bait. I soaked the body sections in MinWax Wood Hardener for a day. Wood Hardener will work a sealer, but it has a long off-gas time. I did not know this at the time. Soaking the sections for that long probably requires a month of off-gassing with that stuff. This would cause the paint and clear coat to separate from the body later on. I finished the parade of screw ups when I installed the lip. I was trying for a 70 degree angle. I cut the slot too big for the Lexan. I used 2 pieces of blue tape like tent rope supports to hold the lip in place while the epoxy cured in the slot. The lip shifted and I ended with an 85 degree angle lip, just slightly forward of straight 90 degree down. The lip ended up being slightly tilted, not straight across the bait. The lip reminds me of a snowplow blade, titled to push the snow off the road. Despite its ugly appearance, it has great action. It wriggles and clacks on the surface. The sections whack against each other. With my rod tip down, it bulges just below the surface. It makes a big wake. In its debut, I caught 3 fish on it, all largemouth, 2 to 3.5 pounds. After that first trip, some off the painted lifted from the body. This problem would pop-up throughout Dicky Moe’s life. Through the years, I would peel off the lifting section, cut it off with a razor blade and patch that section with random white paints and epoxies. The lure is now has uneven color ranging from bright white to some spots that have ambered. The clear coat is uneven due to overlapping patch jobs. I keep catching fish on it including several over 5 lbs. Years ago, I decided to not strip the paint. I have just kept on patching it. I don’t want to strip the paint and possibly ruin Dicky’s mojo. Dicky Moe was responsible for one of my favorite fishing memories. 3 years ago, I was fishing off the dock at my parents’ lake house. They were having an extended family bbq with over 30 people attending to celebrate my oldest uncle’s birthday. I decided to take a few casts while waiting for food. My relatives made numerous jabs about the ‘ridiculous’ size of my lure. On the second cast, I caught a 2.5 lb. largie which surprised my relatives. I was then able to respond with “never doubt the master”. A couple of minutes later, as the lure was no more than 10 feet from the dock, the lure got hammered. The strike was like someone threw a bowling bowl in the water. After a brief but intense fight, including a massive tail splash that sprayed me, I landed a 7.2 lb. largie which stunned everyone. There is nothing quite like catching a big fish in front of audience that was mocking your lure. Dicky Moe has a special place in my heart. It continually reminds that a lure’s appearance does not necessarily relate to its effectiveness. It has provided faithful service for a decade. It will probably go on the wall this year. One of the big gate screws does not look secure anymore. When I die, I want to be cremated with this lure along with some my other favorites. This pics don’t really show how mottled the paint is. One pic is with a SK 2.5 squarebill for a size comparison. After looking at the pics, I never noticed how crooked and misplaced some of the eye screws are.
    4 points
  23. If those are your first baits man you are well on your way! They look great. In my day job I am a network engineer so I can appreciate the fact that you used the two sides from an old computer case for your painting booth. That's awesome man:) You have for sure found yourself in the land of bait makers here. Everyone here is extremely helpful and listening to their advice will only make you better at this amazing hobby. There have been so many good tips provided here and I'd like to give you a couple as well. Just a couple of tips to make things easier for you I guess. I used to have HP printers almost exclusively. Every time I would buy ink it would come with a free pack of 4 x 6 photo paper. After years of buying ink I had so much of that stuff it was ridiculous. Once I began making baits I needed a way to mark a center line after cutting a blank I had drawn out. I remember using a stack of CDs to do this at first but they had a little ridge at the center which made them uneven and therefore pretty much useless. Then I noticed I had a stack of unused HP 4x6 photo paper laying around. To make a long story short, you can mark the center point on a bait when it is still in "block" form and then lay a pen or pencil or marker or whatever on a stack of photo paper (or really any paper will work) and then just add or remove paper as needed until your pen or pencil meets the mark. When it does just push the bait around the pen or pencil until you have an even line all the way around the bait. This will give you an exact center line with which to drill your hook hangers, line ties, etc. Getting things exactly center becomes much harder once you have cut the rough outline of you bait and then sanded it to shape so for me at least this method has been a great help. Second tip: When airbrushing, you can use a transparent base, I use Createx Transparent Base, between coats of paint to help mitigate errors in airbrushing. For example, for me airbrushing is still the most error prone part of the entire process. You spend a good amount of time designing, cutting, sanding, etc., then, once you have all of that perfect you begin the airbrushing process. The airbrushing process is tedious and has many steps depending on what it is you are trying to do. What I have found helpful is to use Createx Transparent Base between steps to protect the layer I just painted from overspray or other errors I make during the next step in the process. So, for example, lets say I've got my base coat down and I have my scales painted and I want to begin painting gill plates. I'll use the transparent base over the entire bait before moving on to the gill plates. Doing this means I have a protective layer over the base and the scales. This way when I begin painting the gill plates if I make a mistake I can easily correct it using a Q-Tip and a bit of water to wipe it away without worrying about wiping away the base coat or scales. I am no expert but this has saved a ton of time for me and has proved a go to method when airbrushing detail. Anyway I hope this helps. Great to have you here and welcome to this unbelievably amazing hobby!
    4 points
  24. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure's shape is somewhat like Strike King's Red Eye Shad with a steeper vertical face and lower line tie.
    4 points
  25. RPM - It must have been a huge buoyancy force to have that effect, as you stated. The other clue is the 'thumping' action. This is an indication that the lure is swimming at a very steep angle. The drag from the lip is very high but the down force is small. The optimum angle is around 45 degrees for maximum depth. This smaller angle presents less lip, so less thump but more down force. To achieve this, your tow eye needs to go further forward. Dave
    4 points
  26. Easy.... You have to invest in machinery and tooling and take the human element out of it.
    4 points
  27. Just wanted to send a thanks out to all the peeps who answer the same questions over and over for those of us just starting out, the money you guys save us newbies is one of the only ways we can afford to get into this hobby! I’ve been reading the forum for a month or so, this is my first post. Haven’t really needed to ask anything, you guys have covered everything I can come up with. Thanks again, really appreciate it!
    4 points
  28. 051 would be a good diameter..you could go up to 062 but that would be a bear to bend...Nate
    4 points
  29. I've tried the adhesive backs stuff.... like hvac tape and such - WAY thicker than the stuff I'm using. For something large or a flat side crank the HVAC stuff is not bad - but no where near as "flexible" for the really contoured stuff. I use a light spray of Super 77 - then press this thin foil down, working it with my fingers to get it as flat as I can over half the bait.... I then use popsicle sticks I've sanded/shaped to press and burnish it down into the details and rub flat the wrinkles as best I can. In some instances this stuff will rip if your a little too physical with it.... but if you look in the pics - on one of the tops I've added a few tiny piece to cover the rips and pressed it down - you can barely see it - I'm hoping with a shot of clear coat it will all be smooth before I start painting over it. I will admit - it dos seem to lose it's "shine" as it's worked.... but still has more reflection/bling than any paint I've used. I believe the thinner the material the better... I'll look into the candy foil - cost isn't an issue - more just finding the right stuff. J
    4 points
  30. Most of the major brands have a wide array of colors. It is hard to just single out one brand. SK has a lot of colors I like. 6th Sense makes some nice ones too. When I make a lure, the color just comes down to personal preference or perhaps to fill a hole in the color spectrum that I can’t buy elsewhere. I repaint some brand name lures with black or black with blue flake because that color is hard to find in a hard bait. At night, dawn/dusk, and in muddy water, black is usually a great choice. A lot of people use a certain color based on confidence. I think that becomes a self-fulling prophecy. Once you catch a fish on a lure, you get some confidence in it. When you have confidence in a lure, you will fish it more often, take more care with your cast targeting, retrieve speed, imparting any action, etc. I am probably more attentive when fishing a lure I have caught fish on and rarely miss a hook set. That lure then becomes more successful and one of my go-to baits through my subconscious actions and not really due to any extra detail level in the paint scheme. I tend to give up more quickly on an unproven bait or color choice. That unproven lure or color pattern may not get a fair chance to be successful. That is why the guy who uses the same craw pattern for 20 years catches most of his fish on it. He is throwing that lure way more than other options. In my area, we have no shad. We have golden shiners, yellow perch, bluegill, and smelt. You see more gold lures being used in my area as opposed to the sexy shad color. Gold with black back and orange throat is very effective because it duplicates most of the local baitfish. But, as Azsouth said, the opposite can also be true on a heavily fished body of water. If the fish see hundreds of the same color lure going by, some different color (even an unrealistic color) maybe more successful. I have used lures that ranged from incredibly detailed to cartoonish color schemes. Overall, I have not seen the detailed ones out perform the simple paint schemes. On a particular day, one may outperform the other. For example, in clear water with a slow presentation, the detail does probably help because the fish get a much better chance to see the detail. I admit that I do admire a great detailed paint job. But, I think the lure's action, diving depth, and overall color are more important than any realistic detail.
    4 points
  31. Good reply Anglinarcher. My prey are bawal, a deep bodied very aggressive fish, which explains why I only need a belly hook. Dave
    4 points
  32. Tough question for sure, and a lot of personal opinion is involved. Personally I think it depends on the size of lure, the type of fish you are after, even the type of lure you are making. I should take more time to explain myself on this, but this is the short version. (This could take a chapter of a book to explain) On species that are less aggressive, like many freshwater trout species, I find that the tail hook is important. On larger lures, lures that often work much better than people think, the trout will tail tug or test the lure first and tail hooks really up-the-catch rate. Still, when the fish are aggressive, the trout will hit the front and on larger lures a tail-only hook will miss the strike. On species that are more aggressive, the real predator species, or any species that is fired up, they are eating and an eating fish eats head first so that they can swallow the fish (presumed thing we are imitating) without the fins chocking (getting stuck in the throat) the predator. Even species that "stun" their prey first usually strike head first or center body, so hooks placed more toward the head seem to be the ones that hook up. On lures that invoke reaction strikes, the front to center hooks usually are the ones that hook up IMHO. On lures that are strait swimmers, ones normally used for neutral mood fish (based on active, neutral, or negative moods of feeding fish) the tail hooks are often the ones that take the most fish. On negative mood fish, fish you may need to put the bait on their nose and keep it there for a time, the strike may be at any point and hook placement is always a guess. I could go on and on, and the lines get blurred a lot: for every rule there is an exception, so I don't want to even start trying to say one is better than another, but.......... here is my best advise. On smaller lures relative to fish size (how small is small?), when fishing for aggressive fish, front hooks are probably all you need. On larger lures, relative to fish size, fished for feeding fish, front of center hooks are probably more important, but tail hooks help. On any lure fished for neutral or negative fish, especially larger lures, front of center hooks and tail hooks are important. And..... well you get the point. In my experiences, I have fished a lot of very clear water. In my area, trout, like Rainbow, Cutthroat, and Browns are a common target. I have watched them follow a lure for several feet and just keep picking at the tail. Without a tail hook catching them would be impossible. On the other hand, I have also seen the same fish just appear out of the dark and grab the lure by the front and than a hook front of center is critical. As for a single hook, when used for a tail hook it works fine for me. I often replace my tail hooks with a single hook to make releasing a fish easier. When used for a front of center hook the hook often lays along side the lure and does not connect with the fish. I have used trout as an example because I have so much experience with them, but I have seen similar behavior in species in the Gulf of Mexico, off the coast in the Pacific Northwest of the USA, Musky and Pike in Minnesota, and on and on. I think it was In-Fisherman Magazine that I first saw the explanation of aggressive, neutral and negative feeding moods of fish, but consider this concept when designing your lures. It might help some to answer your questions.
    4 points
  33. I have two new lure building spreadsheet tools available: 1 - TU resin lure calc – Designed to help with the amount of filler (MBs) and ballast required to achieve the required buoyancy without having to resort to many trial and error builds. 2 - TU wood lure calc – As above but designed for carved lures (wood, PVC or other). Many members have the Ballast Calculator, an older tool. I feel that No2 above is a better tool for this job as it takes into account internal and external hardware as well as ballast. So if anyone requests the Ballast Calculator in future, I will deliver No2 above. If anyone wants these tools, PM me with your email address and I will send both. Dave
    4 points
  34. Check out this video from Jekyll Baits on YouTube, seems like she achieves a similiar effect.
    4 points
  35. I use one of two ways, depending whether the bait is one part or jointed. For one part I use papertrick, shown below. First, I trace the bait to a peace of paper and cut it out. Then I fold it in half, find the balancing point and press my pen through. Then I mark the point to my bait. Easy way to find center of gravity for one part bait. For jointed baits, I always find the CoG for each segments. I could use this paper trick to find the center but then there's an weight distribution problems... So I use this method below instead. I'll take an rubber band and twist a small wire on to it. You can also use fishing line. I'll loop that rubber band on the segment of my bait and start adding weights to that wire. I can change the distribution of the weights by moving the rubber band to front or back, or adding a second one, like shown in pics below. Weight in front of the CoG. Weight behind the CoG. Almost perfect weight distribution. Then I mark these spots, drive holes and add these weights.
    4 points
  36. Weather is acting up so no testing yet for my lightened spoon. It means, I'll go forward with this design. Kinda mimicked an Roach fish here. Pretty basic color scheme, just a tad of fluoriscent red, blue and green on the sides which shows depending the lighting. Next step would be obviously epoxy coating but also making the stinger setup. Not sure how much it inhibits the swimming action but we'll see. Have to test with fluorocarbon, leader wire and Kevlar thread would also be one option. I know all of these are being used in these kind of baits so just have to test which is best for so small bait as this one.
    4 points
  37. I keep going back to this archived web site from across the pond. They specialize in wooden baits so the patterns that they give can help. http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html Click on crankbait, jerkbaits or Surface. Inside that tab are more options. These are proven lures so that should get you started.
    3 points
  38. Here is my first attempt , not the most symmetrical . Next time I will glue the two ends of gills before putting in place . Turned out pretty cool , Thanks guys More pics in galley
    3 points
  39. I exclusively build bass lures and if a bass ever breaks one of my non-thru-wired balsa baits I will gratefully and cheerfully salute the beast as he swims off with half my lure in its mouth. Hundreds of crankbaits, hundreds of bass, I’m still waiting. I don’t think thru-wiring offers added strength to a lure compared to well designed and installed hardwire. But build crankbaits however you think is best for the species you target.
    3 points
  40. What I always find interesting when it comes to to debating the lure construction strength is most are not considering is the shear range in size/power of fish people target with lures. Most are comparing lure construction to species like bass where 10lbs is big and failing to realize this is a small fish to some who target larger species I would be choked if someone built me a lure for a tarpon trip using the same construction they used for largemouth I have had big chinook, lake trout, and pike break lures. I have had pike break hangers twisting in a net/cradle. Chinook have pulled out hangers/break hangers. I have had big Lakers crack hollow plastic plugs/crankbaits on the strike and break hangers rolling in the net Through wire is not needed for the species I just listed but construction that some are assuming is good enough will experience failure. Theses are not even true big game species either What some view unnecessary/overkill may be just what is needed for another. There is a big difference between building lures for panfish and saltwater big game species
    3 points
  41. Same experiences when cutting baits open. I want my lures to last but think of lures being more of a consumable product. If wanting to build something more bulletproof then I jump to 2 part polyurethane foams as water intrusion is no longer and issue and can still get a very "lively" bait. I really never have had many issues with balsa but don't build near the baits I do with basswood and no where in numbers as I used to do. D-Baits.... brings back some good memories.
    3 points
  42. If there is risk of your target fish species to actually break the body of the lure through wire is a good thing. In most cases this is not an issue so for most species/lures it’s not needed in my opinion If you are making resin baits and you cast your hardware into the lure through wire is even less important The main thing in my opinion is appropriate hardware matched to the material to handle your target species
    3 points
  43. Interesting video. I think I had the wrong idea about jerk baits, but I have never used one or built one. The video does demonstrate how the swim angle is relative to the retrieval speed, and backs up the argument that every lipped lure has a hunting speed, but this is just a side note. It looks like the most erratic action occurs when the lip is vertical, this too makes sense, as it is in this lip attitude that the hunt occurs. I guess it is nice for the lure to 'spring back' to horizontal, and for the lure to have a nice movement on a steady retrieve, but I think that these are small bonus features to the main event. Dave
    3 points
  44. I have built about 20 or more 4-piece swim-baits, purely for experimental and investigation purposes. I do not consider myself a swim-bait expert but I have learned a lot and all my baits swam. A swim-bait requires vortices to provide the snaking ‘S’ type motion. For a lipless bait this is achieved with a more bulbous nose, perhaps a flat-ish forehead. Your torpedo nose section is generating nothing but laminar flow and so I see your lure swimming like a stick. Swim-baits need to be slight float or slow sinking. Hinges MUST be totally resistance free, the slightest rub will kill your lure action. Each segment needs to be weighted to float or sink horizontal. Failure will add load friction to the hinges. The front section needs to be longer than the rest. This is flexible but I would start with a 5:3:3 ratio. If it looks right then it probably is right. Your body looks very pretty, but you are doing WAY too much work for a first prototype. Keep it simple, the last thing you need to be doing is carving detail like the tail, gills, scales or painting. Once you have a working prototype then you can start work on the aesthetics. If you want a tail, fit a piece of polycarbonate or Perspex. ALWAYS test with hooks fitted. This should be enough information to get you to a swimmer. Dave
    3 points
  45. Lots of good info and advice given here. It would take me a week to put my thoughts down on the subject in such a way that would be helpful. I have a tendency to talk in circles and am much better at building than explaining things. I don't have a physics degree or any knowledge other than what I've learned through many years of screwing up. My advice for any new builder is to try to duplicate an existing bait that is a known producer. Templates for different styles are out there if you look around online. My first builds were a Shad Rap profile that I was able to find this pattern for. By duplicating the dimensions both in body profile and lip, the angle of the lip, line tie placement, and the ballast weight placement, it took a lot of the guess work out of trying to start off with my own unproven design. If nothing else, it's a confidence builder when you see promise in your very first build. (This bait is a mid diver but just using it as an example) Keep in mind that the materials used are a big factor also. In other words, if you are replicating a plastic bait, you can't necessarily expect it to behave like a copied wood version. The same goes for different types of wood that all have their own weight, buoyancy, etc. I began with balsa wood, as the original Rapala's are also Balsa. Since then, I've been able to learn the characteristics of some different wood types and bait designs. Most all of what I use now is red cedar. One things for certain, there is no such thing as being "learned out" when it comes to building baits. It's a never ending process of trial and error and why I enjoy it so much.
    3 points
  46. 304 is the most common stainless wire fortunately for us. Yes it is soft and it bends easily, again, fortunately for us. 304 also cold work hardens. This means that when you work it into a series of tight bends when making a twisted eye, the material automatically hardens, as you will discover if you try to unwind a tight set of coils. This again is in our favour. So, don't be fooled in to thinking that this material is too soft for our purposes. Once bent into the shape that we want, it automatically toughens up. When I have tested SS twisted eyes with heavy loads, there was distortion of the eye shape. So, knowing that the material cold work hardens, you could make the first eye shape bend twice or even three times (but no more). This would ensure maximum work hardening of the eye. Note - I have not tried this idea, it just occurred to me now. Dave
    3 points
  47. No weight in the tail in the husky jerk near the size of the bait you are making. You are in between the two sizes of husky jerks. The weight should run in the belly from the "throat" to past the first hook hanger. You may need to add weight above the front hook hanger or closer to head depending on how your bait is built most likely as done in the HJ12 model (higher up in the bait/midline). I would recommend just floating one side by side with your lure to get it dialed in. I buy clearance baits all the time just for reference.
    3 points
  48. Sorry for the distraction, I shouldn't have done that. But I will say; don't be so judgemental to the homeless as you do not know their story. Most people are two or three bad decisions away from the streets. Be grateful for what you have. Issue closed, let's move on Dave
    3 points
  49. I understand experimenting to pass the time, seek better understanding of materials and procedures, or whatever. But I agree with Anglinarcher. It probably won’t result in a better bait than simply using one body material. Experience taught me that keeping things simple while building a bait results in fewer problems, less variability, and baits that work and catch fish.better. Just my opinion.
    3 points
  50. I hate to always be the wet blanket when it comes to screw wire vs thru wire, but in my opinion, if you are making a premium lure for muskies or pike, it should always be thru wire. Screw eyes are plenty strong when new, but after fishing with a lure for a year or two, almost no amount of finish will be able to withstand rocks and fish. If there is any moisture ingress or if the threads 'crack' loose from the glue that's holding the screw, it can pull out. Sorry, it just bugs me seeing musky lures that go for 100+$ dollars, and they have screw in hardware. This is the result. A lost lure and possibly a dead fish. This was from a big pike that crushed the lure boat side. Set the hook and out came the large screw eye. Hopefully the fish chucked the lure. This is from a 'well made' well known lure manufacturer (I won't name names or anything). This is the second time that it has happened to me, so I can only imagine with all the people fishing, how many times this may happen. This would not happen with thru wire. I'm tough on equipment, I fish a lot, and if there is a weakness, musky fishermen tend to find it. I'm headed out this weekend, freezing temps, and lakes icing up to go bash some other lures around on the Canadian shield hoping for another hog.
    3 points
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