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  1. This is my version. This is the first bait I painted after getting an airbrush a bunch of years back. Never thrown it, was just for fun.
    6 points
  2. I like to Texas rig a square of toilet paper on the line ahead of the bait for realism . Big Bass usually slam this rig up as soon as it hits the water with strikes that sound like a toilet flushing .
    5 points
  3. I wanted to give an update on my ordering placed back in late January/early February. Amazingly I received my custom cut aluminum bugmolds.com the end of last week. Dang! Those fellas did an amazing job simply off a few pictures of a bait. I just saw they updated their site stating the shop is back up and running too.
    5 points
  4. This 8.75" trout glide has been a long time in the making, but I'm finally getting it to where I want it to be after years of testing and weeding through iterations that I wasn't 100% satisfied with. I actually started working on this particular model about a year and a half ago and only now have enough time on the water with it to feel comfortable pushing it into the final phases of prototyping. The master was carved completely by hand out of a block of basswood using only a utility knife, wood chisel, and sandpaper. I made a two-piece silicone mold of the bait so that I could pour duplicates out of resin. The tail was also carved out of wood and molded with silicone. The casting material is a flexible urethane with black glitter to replicate the trout dots on the body. The bait in the photograph is the first fishable prototype out of my new mold. It was painted with an airbrush and clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear. I did a semi sloppy job with the hand-tied Owner ST-36 feather trebles. Not sure how they will effect the swim, but they add a nice touch. Overall I am very pleased with how this bait came out. I'd love to fish the paint off this thing but will be donating it this week to support the Swimbaits for Autism fundraiser event hosted by Swimbait Culture. Check it out and thanks for looking! Dan
    5 points
  5. This is an update to an older post. It is long so I made a new post. Luhr Jensen Speed Trap – old vs. new, and the new Norman Speed N. Pre-2006 Speed Traps were made in the USA. The new ones are made in China. I compared 4 old ones to 4 new ones. In my unscientific opinion, I think the new baits are made with the same butyrate plastic and in the same or similar molds. The plastic feels and looks the same. The clear coat on the new baits does appear to be different from the old baits. The clear coat on the new baits is thicker. This resulted in slightly different dimension between the old and new baits. The diving depth for all 8 models appeared to be around 7’ on 12 lb. Yozuri Hydrid Line. The actions of the new and old baits seem identical. I fished all baits on the same rod with the same reel. The vibration from bait to bait was the same. I was fishing in 7 feet and just ticking the bottom. The rattle sound seems similar across all 4 pre-2006 baits. Three of the new bait sounded like the pre-2006 baits. One of the new baits seemed a bit fainter than the old ones. The tone of the rattles in all baits is similar. Molding ‘dents’ All of the old baits and 2 of the new baits have what appear to be small ‘dents’ where the plastic sagged into the body during the manufacturing process. The dents on the older baits were far more numerous and far more pronounced. Two of the new baits had no dents. One new bait had one very slight dent. The other new bait had two very slight dents. (Older baits) Pre-2006 - Black - has two dents on the belly in front of the hook hanger, a dent on the starboard side of the nose, and the starboard side of the tail. Pre-2006 – Metallic Perch - has two dents on the belly in front of the hanger, dents on the starboard side and port side of the nose, a dent on the starboard side of the tail, and a slight dent on the back near the top on the starboard side. This is the oldest bait in the group which I believe was made in the late 90s. Pre-2006 – Crystal Mudcraw - has two dents on the belly in front of the hanger, a dent on the starboard side of the nose, and a slight dent on the starboard side of the tail. Pre-2006 – Bluegill Perch (with orange sharpie on belly) - has one large dent on the starboard side of belly in front of the hanger. This dent is the largest and deepest by far. It looks like and inverted water drop. It also has dents on the starboard side and port side of the nose, a dent on the starboard side of the tail, and a slight dent on the back near the top on the starboard side. (Newer baits) Post-2006 – Blue chrome - has no body dents. Post-2006- Gun Metal Shad – has a very slight dent on the starboard side of the belly in front of the hanger and another very slight dent on the starboard side of the nose. Post-2006 – Breeding Bluegill - has no body dents. Post-2006- Mossback Craw – has a very slight dent on the starboard side of the belly. Because the few dents on the new baits appear in similar spots to where they occurred in the old baits seems to me that they are still made the same. Luhr Jensen must have figured out a way to mold the bodies with far fewer dents/sags. Clear coat On the 4 older baits, the clear coat is thin and uniform with no fish eyes. The clear coat on the newer baits is thicker. There are ‘fish eyes’ in the clear coat on two of the new baits so you can see that it is thicker than the old clear coat. Measuring the length and width of the body and thickness of the lip also indicate the clear coat is thicker on the new baits. The thicker clear coat may increase the durability of the new baits compared to the old ones that would not likely survive an errant cast into an object. This is not a complaint about these baits. I really like the bait. There are usually at least 5 in my tackle bag in different colors. They are very thin walled and were difficult to manufacture. The quality on the new baits has definitely improved. I have fished these baits for 20 years and have caught multiple species on them. The new ones and the old ones both are great fish catchers. The have a very tight wiggle that draws some vicious strikes. They are very stable and don’t blow out even on fast retrieves. The only disappointment I have in the new baits is they discontinued the Metallic Perch color - gold chrome perch pattern with the green chrome on the shoulders and orange on the belly. It doesn’t show well in the pics. It is a deadly bait in the Northeast as it looks like several of the local baitfish. INCHES Lip **** Pre / Post OUNCE Body Body Port Starboard 2006 Color Weight* Length** Width*** Thickness Thickness pre Black 0.334 2.6135 0.7210 0.0845 0.0845 pre Metallic Perch 0.322 2.6040 0.7185 0.0845 0.0845 pre Crystal Mud Craw 0.328 2.6210 0.7220 0.0840 0.0840 pre Bluegill Perch 0.340 2.6000 0.7205 0.0850 0.0850 AVG 0.331 2.60963 0.72050 0.08450 0.08450 post Blue Chrome 0.330 2.6460 0.7440 0.0970 0.0970 post Gun Metal Shad 0.363 2.6395 0.7450 0.0950 0.0955 post Breeding Bream 0.341 2.6395 0.7465 0.0955 0.0950 post Mossback Craw 0.358 2.6390 0.7445 0.0960 0.0955 AVG 0.348 2.64100 0.74500 0.09588 0.09575 Norman Speed N New Evoo 0.463 2.69800 0.82400 0.07300 0.73000 * Weight with no hardware. ** Length of body of plastic measured from above tail loop to noise point *** Body width just behind belly hanger **** Lip thickness on both sides as close as possible to center hump on the bottom side of the lip Norman Speed N vs. Lurh Jensen Speed Trap The Speed N is a new lure very similar to the Speed Trap. The Speed N is close in size to the Speed Trap with a similar action. The Speed N is also made of butyrate. The Speed Trap is available in more colors. The Speed Trap also has some bluegill colors and chrome colors which the Speed N does not. Hopefully, Norman will add more colors in the future. The Speed N is made in Guatemala. The Speed Trap is made in China. The Speed N dove to around 5’ on the same setup that the Speed Trap reached 7’. The Speed N is heavier and casts further than the Speed Trap. The Speed N I purchased had no defects. The Speed N had a tight wiggle very similar to the Speed Trap. They both have a similar lip design. Like the Trap, the N also did not blow out on a fast retrieve. I could feel the action of the Speed Trap a bit more on my rod tip. I guess I would describe the vibration of the Trap as just a bit crisper compared to the N. The Speed N did have a different rattle from the Trap. The Speed N makes more of a thud knock rattle. The Speed N has 2 chambers that run horizontally across the bottom of the bait that each house 1 fairly large ball. The balls have a limited range of motion, they can move and knock side-to-side. The Speed Trap has one medium ball in a horizontal chamber on the belly with very limited moment that provides a very subtle knock and a smaller ball free roaming in the open body that gives off a fairly high pitch rattle. I have only fished with the Speed N one time and caught no fish in 40 degree water so I can’t attest to its ability to catch fish. I have had years of success with the Speed Trap. It would be great to have a successful Speed Trap like lure that can hit shallower water. It will be interesting to see how the Speed N does next year. Neither lure performs well being dragged across 6 inches of ice. Jim
    5 points
  6. This is correct. Unfortunately, with mail order it's simply not possible for us to make much, if any, profit on orders below $15. We run a very streamlined business, but even small orders have to pass through at least 2 to 3 people before they're out the door. Larger organizations can afford to simply take the hit on small orders (or they haven't done the analysis to determine if it's profitable), but we're small (around 15 employees) and plan on staying that way, so we have to be more diligent on issues such as this. We recognize this is frustrating, but we do try to be upfront and honest about it. We're also always looking for ways to better serve all of you, so if we can identify a way to fulfill smaller orders without losing money on every one, we'll certainly make it an option. Matt Barlow
    5 points
  7. Here are some of my old rattle cans paintjobs. I think I might need to go back, I suck at airbrushing
    4 points
  8. I just found this website through a search and it is really user friendly to use for creating or matching existing colors . Wish I had found something like this years ago and it would have saved a lots of plastic experimenting with colors. Online color mixing tool - free color blender tool! (trycolors.com)
    4 points
  9. 4 points
  10. I have some baits coated from Jan-Feb of 2018 with D2T. No yellowing yet. I usually write my initials and date made inside the joint or somewhere on the bait. I don't leave my baits out in the sun when not is use. Make sure you get the 2 Ton 30 minute one. The 5 minute Devcon will yellow. The packaging does look similar. Even though the package says 30 minutes, it is more like 10-15 minutes before it starts to set. I also like to use T type trebles or Ewg trebles to cut down on rash. I will sometimes T bend some trebles like the Ali 35647 model if I don't want to spend for Owner ST-35s or Mustad KVDs. I have not used UV yet. Once I get around to building a UV light set up, I am going to try the following UV resin https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YMTFM7D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B08YMTFM7D&linkCode=as2&tag=engineereda06-20&linkId=af7e71c648cd23380fcbc3423ddb6bf9 Engineered Angler's video provides some great info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVyA-F4tosE&t=20s You would need at least two coats of UV to hold up to teeth, maybe more. I think the speed of curing is a huge plus. I also like how you can put it on a rotisserie to level it out before turning on the lights. Mark is correct on D2T glue type vs. Etex decoupage type. D2T is very tooth and hook rash resistant. When it does fail, it seems more likely a piece will chip off than with Etex. Damn bridges. I also think if the wood is not completely dry that D2T is more likely to crack from wood expansion. It is rare but I have seen it a couple of times. D2T is easy to find in a double syringe for $6 in my area. My small local hardware store carries it. I would suggest you try that before getting the bigger bottles. D2T is very easy to use. I mix by eye even when using the larger bottles. I like it for pike/musky waters. I also noticed on the last few packages I bought they had printed a Use By date on them. I don't remember that in the past. I like to buy it in the store if possible. I like to look at the packages so I can buy the clearest one and the newest one. Etex is easier for teeth to penetrate but has a better chance of surviving rocks. I have a few Etex coated wooden baits that have small dents but the Etex top coat is still intact. It just flexed with dent. I have several Etex baits going on 5 years and no yellowing either. I think Etex is a bit more temperamental than D2T. I have to pay more attention to mixing and environmental conditions with Etex. I have recoated damaged sections of both types of epoxy and the patches have held so far.
    4 points
  11. Update: I received my order yesterday. I assumed I would never get it and the money was gone. I wasn't too concerned about it, getting invaded by Russia is a valid excuse to not fulfill orders. I was very surprised when I found the box on my doorstep. I ran all 3 aluminum molds today and they shot perfect. I might place another order just to help the cause.
    4 points
  12. Here is a simple method for making some stencils I came up with I lay down a sheet of aluminum foil , sprayed with butter flavored Pam ( that was all I had , I suspect regular Pam would also work ) Drizzle hot glue randomly , about 10 " above work surface . If you want thick lines you can let the glue spread before cooling down or the thinner lines cool down quickly - I just blew air on them to set at what stage I wanted . Clean with soap and water . They are soft and pliable and can be clipped around lure like tulle or laid down as usual . I am going to try doing this method on blank square bill ( sprayed with butter Pam first ) to see if it will hold the shape once cooled down , more ideas will have to wait till next weekend
    4 points
  13. Looks good so far! Keep it up. Don't be discouraged if you make a lure and it totally is a flop. We have all been there. Just give it a try, don't overthink your first lures. The tough part of a diving crankbait is getting the lip slot to be perpendicular to the wood so it dives true. I like to cut that slip slot while i have flat sides. You will have to kind eyeball where to put the lip. At this point I would take some 80 or 120 grit or so and sand it to the shape you like it. Maybe finish off with 220 or so. Then cut the lip slot/put wire in and weight (it will most likely need a bit of weight to give it a ballast). Once all the hardware is in, I would seal the wood one way or another. It helps keep any moisture out, but really it can help the overall appearance of your lure. There are tons of methods - polycrylic, polyurethane, superglue, epoxy are a few. Size and shape of the diving lip will be tricky to if you want to make a unique lure. Honestly, copy one of your favorites to start. It will give you a feel for how it works. Then you can start making the same kinda lure and try different size or shapes or angles, there are many options. You can learn a lot from the ones you fail at too! There is tons to talk about - keep asking questions.
    4 points
  14. I've tried every glue known to man and clear dipping trumps them all.
    4 points
  15. Yep there's not a thing wrong with Ozark Trail baits. Just like any other brand of baits they all have some good ones & they all have some that may not be as good as the next but all brands have some that will catch fish. We use to use a bait that actually got us made fun of by some guys saying we were crappie fishing. Well guess what after winning 1st & big fish the next 6 times straight they didn't make so much fun of us again. I really enjoyed when they asked what we caught them on & laughing when telling them & they thought i was lying to them. A shame it wasn't a big name brand or color anybody thought would catch fish.
    4 points
  16. The best wake I've ever fished was/is the CL8 baits Baby Possum. It has a wide, flat bottom, a mostly flat top and a reverse cut joint that is fairly tight. It's lip depth below the bait is about equal to the baits heighth and the lip is very close to the front of the bait. It sits pretty low in the water, with just the top 3/16 inch sticking out of the water. The waking version weighs right at 4 oz's but fishes extremely heavy, like it weighs 6 oz and can wear you out even with the right rod. It seems to be a small compact package that is very dense. I've had great luck with the fish just crushing the bait, especially around wood. My wake making experience has been primarily with resin baits. When making a 2 pc bait, I use the 60/40 guideline, 60 being the front section. 50/30/20 for a 3 pc bait, with a short tail. When I draw out a design, I always include a drawn in tail, This will help me judge the size the tail section will wind up being and the overall shape of the bait. I've made a couple the with even shorter tail section on a two pc and the tail section will slap pretty hard back and forth. Also take into account for the length of the joint cut itself. Cutting certain angle joints can have the effect of shortening the front section while lenghtening the second section, creating unbalanced proportions. You want the front section and the lip to drive the back section with it's movement, not have the back section hump the front. See a lot of new glides out there with a longer tail section than front, makes for a weird swim. I've made a couple myself. I use 1/8 Lexan/Poly for lips, never needed anything bigger, even on 10-12 inch wakes. I have a tablesaw blade that cuts a 1/8th inch kerf so the lips will slip right in the slot. When testing, I'll cut different shaped and length lips and wrap with blue painters tape around the inserted section to keep the test lip tight. In a wake I want a hard back and forth slap not a rolling type swim. Taller wakes don't make for great bait IMHO, I think they tend to roll more and that kills some of the tail action. Different if you have a rat type tail, they tend to create good action behind most style baits. Wakes can act dramatically different if the linetie is on the nose or under the nose towards the lip like a squarebill CB. I think a guy needs to try both positions to see how it affects your bait. AZsouth helped me troubleshoot a wake bait I was making. Made a bunch of adjustments. We moved the lipslot forward, the linetie back and I moved the joint spacing back and forth. We finally found right combination of those factors the bait came alive and had a great consistant swim. You just have to work to find the right combo for your particular bait. It was like the timing of the sections and the tail movements were finally right and moved in unison and made great sounds. That one looked like a Frankenbait but swam good. Make sure each section floats level with each other, independent of each other, so the joint{s} won't bind. *90 lip will help keep the bait waking and on the surface. Kick the lip out some and it will start to crank down. I make a couple resin wakes with no added weights in the bottom. Just some solid resin in the bottom and the hardware, MB mix up top. I would think that wood wakes will need some lead ballasting. This had been some of my experiences, hope it helps...
    4 points
  17. I learned a lot from screwing up building lures over the last 25+years. I didn’t have YouTube or much information it was just carve and see if it works There was a 10year period I built min 10 different lures a day and tested them in my personal pond. Most crude or completely odd looking lipless lures My point don’t just rely on available information only because it will limit your knowledge. If you have an idea try it experiment screw up and adjust.
    4 points
  18. Simple trick with lipless crankbaits move the weight up from the belly. The instability will give a wider shimmy. About 1/4 up from the belly often works well As for shape wider forehead wider wobble. Thinner will be faster and tighter Slope of the forehead plays a roll too best thing to do is make a few basic designs and test a few different things till you find what you like. Then make a nice one with paint and clear coat
    4 points
  19. You cannot. They're made with a different substance which does not melt with heat. All you'll get is burned rubber/plastic.
    4 points
  20. I too placed an order just prior to the invasion for a custom mold. Victor has been great to keep in communication with me. Pondered trying to do refund through PayPal due to the amount I spent but I figured the heck with it. I’ll either get it or I won’t. They have to much to worry about right now.
    4 points
  21. It could be an old Flatfish X5. The X stood for ‘Expert’. Helin got the patent for the Flatfish in 1936. It could also be a knockoff of the Flatfish as it was widely sold and copied through the years. I don’t think it is a Kwikfish which came after the Flatfish. The Kwikfish usually has traditional type hook arrangements. It does not appear to be Lazy Ike which is narrower than a Flatfish. It also does not appear to be a Brooks Reefer or a Beno lure. Your lure has the body length and weight of a Flatfish X5 which came out in 1947-8. It was available in wood or plastic. The hook setup on your lure is different from the typical X5 which had 3 trebles, a tail treble and two belly trebles mounted to the ends of a single wire spreader that had a loop in the middle that went through the belly hanger. Helin called that hardware setup - ‘gang hooks’. Some of the models could be ordered with two double hooks or gang single hooks. The older Fly Rod Flatfish models came with a single hook that could swing on a piece of wire imbedded in the center of the belly. Some of the bigger fly rod models had 2 single hooks mounted gang style. The biggest Fly rod model was the F7 which was 2-1/4” long. Your bait looks like an X5 but with a fly rod type hook set up. The line tie wire also looks like the line tie on some of the Fly Rod Flatfish models. Your lure looks like it was an attempt to use the X series to make a bigger model in the F series. From what I have read, Charlie Helin was concerned about increasing the chances of a hooking fish that did hit the lure. He created some unusual hook layouts and designs on baits to keep hooks facing away from each other or on opposite sides of the bait. I would not fish with it. It could be worth something. It could be one of Helin’s designs that was only available for a short time. Even if it is a knockoff, some of the older well made knockoffs can be worth something. helin hook assembly us2621438.pdf
    4 points
  22. This thread has been locked to prevent it from becoming a disaster
    4 points
  23. I use a metal coat hanger. I make an L but turn the bottom back towards the vertical part forming a second wire about an inch above the base. That gives me a bottom scrubber and a mixer just above the bottom. It fits in a gallon jug. An electric drill does the work.
    4 points
  24. Yep, the Deep Secret. Probably the deepest diving small body lure. Speed Trap body, trench digger lip. There's nothing wrong with casting it once you get past the lack of a weight transfer chamber, some helicoptering, and the lip causing the lure to sail off course in random directions on nearly every cast.
    4 points
  25. I would suggest moving your line tie a little higher on the nose and try that before changing lip location. Personally I think your lip needs to be moved forward some also. I've had to move a lip forward before to get a bait to wake better. I had to remove the old lip, fill the slot and cut a newer slot a fair amount forward. We called it the Frankenbait, as it had been cut apart and glued back together in various places, but it worked afterward. As Dave and JD above stated, try a shorter, wider lip. I've found those tend to get a taller profile bait like a gill, to wake better. The lip you're showing will want to make the bait dive or crank down, IMHO. Depending on how you have the bait ballasted, how low it floats in the water will also effect how it swims. Mine worked best as a very low float, barely floating with the back just out of the water, throws a great dual wake. The lip and nose create the big V wake and the tail will create swirling vortiscies{sp} to each side, inside the V wake. I would move the front hook hanger back a hair also, looks like the front treble will hang up on the lip when casting. That's a great looking bait, nice carving and paint, get er' waking and she will get crushed!! Here are a couple pics of a gill wake I made after moving all the components to get it to wake nice. This is a resin bait BTW, 6 inch long and just under 5 oz. Good luck moving forward with this bait and Happy Holidays to all!
    4 points
  26. I've not seen anything for spindle blanks. But there are plenty of CNC wood engravers that you could make half sides of crankbaits with to make mold masters. You could also probably make halves of any lure to though wire. I've contemplated this but never pulled the trigger and i just do low volume and like to carve lol.
    4 points
  27. I've been using KBS clear spray. Just actually did another batch for a guy last night. Do It freestyle jig with flat glow eye stickers. So far been able to wear hooks out before any eyes fall off. If i was doing 3D eyes i might dip them. But you can see the clear sealed around the eyes
    3 points
  28. I’ve clearcoated hundreds of baits with D2T epoxy, moisture cured urethane (MCU), and Chinese uv cured resin. I really like MCU for it’s ease of application, gloss, and toughness in a thin coating. I like uv resin for its quick cure. I like D2T because it’s tough in a thick coating that resists hook rash. But there are quirks to each choice and each can have problems. MCU often has storage problems. UV resin (the Chinese brand I tried) became sticky months after curing. D2T will eventually yellow (but if measured and mixed really well it will be some years). Choice may vary according to what you build, how often you build, and the purpose you build for. I’m an occasional hobby builder. I like the advantages of MCU and UV resin but my default has long been D2T. It’s still chugging along when my UV resin has failed and my MCU has turned to jelly in its storage can.
    3 points
  29. Andy--These things just grow in your head, I seem to be forever adding something, last week it was a new wiper motor (1995 Honda Civic ) which replaced a 32V geared laminator motor- Yesterday it was add a small linear motor, today it's wire in a micro switch to to change the way the chuck "unlocks", it never ends. Pete
    3 points
  30. check out the 4" MC worm mold from angfling ai. It will probably suit you & one thing about it is it will be a top notch mold for sure like all of the rest of his molds. He also has a 4' paddle tail worm mold too.
    3 points
  31. There are a lot of good spinnerbaits out there right now. For me, a good spinnerbait should perform the duty it is meant to do. For example, if you have a spinnerbait mean for burning then it should do that well. That means it should be able to handle high speeds without rolling over or leaning heavily to one side. If it is a slow rolling model, then the blade should spin at very slow speeds without causing much lift. I should be able to crank that lure at least 10 times or more before having to pause slightly for the bait to get back down. An "all-purpose" type bait should be stable at moderate speeds and the blades should spin at relatively slow speeds. Good components, and doing its intended job is what makes a spinnerbait good. If it does all of those things and if used in the correct situation, a good spinnerbait will always catch fish.
    3 points
  32. Hillbilly, I think many of us are at least a little strange... I had one of those when I was a kid (before my folks trusted me with a knife) and it was my favorite tool! I loved how I could shape wood with it. Seeing it on here, maybe I'll pick some up for my kids (and me) to work with. Great start! Keep us updated as you progress with this lure.
    3 points
  33. Probably, though I have yet to get flexible filament to work for me (yet), it's sort of like playing pool with a rope.
    3 points
  34. Cut lip slot, drill all holes with the blank square. How I basically approach it,
    3 points
  35. Oh and a tip for the future cut your lip slot first thing. It’s easier to cut straight when the wood still has flat sides and if you mess it up you have not lost any time shaping the body.
    3 points
  36. For shaping I only rough things out with a knife then switch to a rasp with a coarse/fine combination. You can remove a lot of material with the coarse side. The fine side it eliminates a lot of sanding and removes the ridges The one I use is double sided. One side curved the other is flat here is a pic of one but the fine side is getting worn down because I have had it a long time By far my favorite shaping tool
    3 points
  37. I've never seen any ill effects of the clear dip. If anything it adds a little strength to the head without affecting the action. Some baits that I paint the whole body is clear dipped.
    3 points
  38. I don't know if anyone here watches this on YouTube but it is a good show. I wanted to let you know that I'm going to be the guest Thursday, March 31 at 7pm CST. Classic and New Bass Jig Designs With Smalljaw! - YouTube
    3 points
  39. Zoom Cucumber Seed. Basically a Watermelon with Black and White flake.
    3 points
  40. Recipes do transfer pretty well but if I remember right smooth on just slightly lighter. I didn’t notice an impact on action though. for issues with air bubbles cutting small air vents in the mold is the real key. If I notice air bubbles in an part of the blank I cut a vent. I maybe overkill but it is not uncommon for me to cut 8 vents on a 6-8 inch bait As for pouring I have done some interesting things pouring baits with different layers. I actually pour on different angles for different layers for some baits. When I first start drawing up a bait there is a lot of thought into how things settle into the body shape but I need to get ready for work
    3 points
  41. This is a 2" mouse . I carved this out of PVC , used Badger hair for body and feathers for head . The tail is a t-stop for pegging weights
    3 points
  42. And the answer is: THE ONE THAT WORKS FOR YOU. Webster's definition of clear coat: The endless search by fisherman for the ultimate coating for a fishing lure. Derived from clear coatus, Latin for waste a ridiculous amount of time and money looking for a product that doesn't exist. See tackleunderground searches for more information back to 820 BC lol
    3 points
  43. Thanks guys! I've got another video coming up that I'm working on right now to increase the durability on big softbaits where these Magdrafts will make another return. I'll post it when that project is finished!
    3 points
  44. I was able to make my own Speed Traps. They aren't hard to make, and they work. I have several pictures of my finished Speed Trap copies in the Hard Baits Gallery.
    3 points
  45. Let me expand on the advantages of 3D printing of baits. Once you have a CAD model that works for you, it is little more than a push button exercise to produce more bodies. There are various materials available, but I will not discuss further here, it is up to you to research. The print is slow, but for a small crank bait, 4 or 5 could be printed per run on most budget machines. We are basically talking low volume production. The HUGE advantage is that you can produce lures that are impossible by injection molding and/or casting. Features such as concave lips, lips with sharp edges, external sharp corners. You can produce 3D pectoral fins as discussed in a recent post on sculpin fish, for that extra realism. If your intention is to one day hit the BIG time and get your lure injection molded, you can emulate the injection molding and check that the lure works before spending thousands on expensive tools, there is no money back policy on tools that produce duds. Dave
    3 points
  46. Chris, you’re right that a line tie in the nose of a wood bait can be a weak point, especially in soft balsa. If you break the finish in the bait while tuning it will be a goner quickly. Rather than use a steel screw eye, many builders use hand twisted screw eyes made from soft temper stainless steel or brass, either of which is easy to bend to tune a bait. I use .041” soft temper stainless from McMaster-Carr online in standard sized bass baits. It’s easy to twist accurately and plenty tough enough to last well, and won’t break finish while tuning the bait.
    3 points
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