Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/02/2021 in all areas

  1. #6 Don't quit your day job.
    6 points
  2. I wanted to give an update on my ordering placed back in late January/early February. Amazingly I received my custom cut aluminum bugmolds.com the end of last week. Dang! Those fellas did an amazing job simply off a few pictures of a bait. I just saw they updated their site stating the shop is back up and running too.
    5 points
  3. This 8.75" trout glide has been a long time in the making, but I'm finally getting it to where I want it to be after years of testing and weeding through iterations that I wasn't 100% satisfied with. I actually started working on this particular model about a year and a half ago and only now have enough time on the water with it to feel comfortable pushing it into the final phases of prototyping. The master was carved completely by hand out of a block of basswood using only a utility knife, wood chisel, and sandpaper. I made a two-piece silicone mold of the bait so that I could pour duplicates out of resin. The tail was also carved out of wood and molded with silicone. The casting material is a flexible urethane with black glitter to replicate the trout dots on the body. The bait in the photograph is the first fishable prototype out of my new mold. It was painted with an airbrush and clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear. I did a semi sloppy job with the hand-tied Owner ST-36 feather trebles. Not sure how they will effect the swim, but they add a nice touch. Overall I am very pleased with how this bait came out. I'd love to fish the paint off this thing but will be donating it this week to support the Swimbaits for Autism fundraiser event hosted by Swimbait Culture. Check it out and thanks for looking! Dan
    5 points
  4. This is an update to an older post. It is long so I made a new post. Luhr Jensen Speed Trap – old vs. new, and the new Norman Speed N. Pre-2006 Speed Traps were made in the USA. The new ones are made in China. I compared 4 old ones to 4 new ones. In my unscientific opinion, I think the new baits are made with the same butyrate plastic and in the same or similar molds. The plastic feels and looks the same. The clear coat on the new baits does appear to be different from the old baits. The clear coat on the new baits is thicker. This resulted in slightly different dimension between the old and new baits. The diving depth for all 8 models appeared to be around 7’ on 12 lb. Yozuri Hydrid Line. The actions of the new and old baits seem identical. I fished all baits on the same rod with the same reel. The vibration from bait to bait was the same. I was fishing in 7 feet and just ticking the bottom. The rattle sound seems similar across all 4 pre-2006 baits. Three of the new bait sounded like the pre-2006 baits. One of the new baits seemed a bit fainter than the old ones. The tone of the rattles in all baits is similar. Molding ‘dents’ All of the old baits and 2 of the new baits have what appear to be small ‘dents’ where the plastic sagged into the body during the manufacturing process. The dents on the older baits were far more numerous and far more pronounced. Two of the new baits had no dents. One new bait had one very slight dent. The other new bait had two very slight dents. (Older baits) Pre-2006 - Black - has two dents on the belly in front of the hook hanger, a dent on the starboard side of the nose, and the starboard side of the tail. Pre-2006 – Metallic Perch - has two dents on the belly in front of the hanger, dents on the starboard side and port side of the nose, a dent on the starboard side of the tail, and a slight dent on the back near the top on the starboard side. This is the oldest bait in the group which I believe was made in the late 90s. Pre-2006 – Crystal Mudcraw - has two dents on the belly in front of the hanger, a dent on the starboard side of the nose, and a slight dent on the starboard side of the tail. Pre-2006 – Bluegill Perch (with orange sharpie on belly) - has one large dent on the starboard side of belly in front of the hanger. This dent is the largest and deepest by far. It looks like and inverted water drop. It also has dents on the starboard side and port side of the nose, a dent on the starboard side of the tail, and a slight dent on the back near the top on the starboard side. (Newer baits) Post-2006 – Blue chrome - has no body dents. Post-2006- Gun Metal Shad – has a very slight dent on the starboard side of the belly in front of the hanger and another very slight dent on the starboard side of the nose. Post-2006 – Breeding Bluegill - has no body dents. Post-2006- Mossback Craw – has a very slight dent on the starboard side of the belly. Because the few dents on the new baits appear in similar spots to where they occurred in the old baits seems to me that they are still made the same. Luhr Jensen must have figured out a way to mold the bodies with far fewer dents/sags. Clear coat On the 4 older baits, the clear coat is thin and uniform with no fish eyes. The clear coat on the newer baits is thicker. There are ‘fish eyes’ in the clear coat on two of the new baits so you can see that it is thicker than the old clear coat. Measuring the length and width of the body and thickness of the lip also indicate the clear coat is thicker on the new baits. The thicker clear coat may increase the durability of the new baits compared to the old ones that would not likely survive an errant cast into an object. This is not a complaint about these baits. I really like the bait. There are usually at least 5 in my tackle bag in different colors. They are very thin walled and were difficult to manufacture. The quality on the new baits has definitely improved. I have fished these baits for 20 years and have caught multiple species on them. The new ones and the old ones both are great fish catchers. The have a very tight wiggle that draws some vicious strikes. They are very stable and don’t blow out even on fast retrieves. The only disappointment I have in the new baits is they discontinued the Metallic Perch color - gold chrome perch pattern with the green chrome on the shoulders and orange on the belly. It doesn’t show well in the pics. It is a deadly bait in the Northeast as it looks like several of the local baitfish. INCHES Lip **** Pre / Post OUNCE Body Body Port Starboard 2006 Color Weight* Length** Width*** Thickness Thickness pre Black 0.334 2.6135 0.7210 0.0845 0.0845 pre Metallic Perch 0.322 2.6040 0.7185 0.0845 0.0845 pre Crystal Mud Craw 0.328 2.6210 0.7220 0.0840 0.0840 pre Bluegill Perch 0.340 2.6000 0.7205 0.0850 0.0850 AVG 0.331 2.60963 0.72050 0.08450 0.08450 post Blue Chrome 0.330 2.6460 0.7440 0.0970 0.0970 post Gun Metal Shad 0.363 2.6395 0.7450 0.0950 0.0955 post Breeding Bream 0.341 2.6395 0.7465 0.0955 0.0950 post Mossback Craw 0.358 2.6390 0.7445 0.0960 0.0955 AVG 0.348 2.64100 0.74500 0.09588 0.09575 Norman Speed N New Evoo 0.463 2.69800 0.82400 0.07300 0.73000 * Weight with no hardware. ** Length of body of plastic measured from above tail loop to noise point *** Body width just behind belly hanger **** Lip thickness on both sides as close as possible to center hump on the bottom side of the lip Norman Speed N vs. Lurh Jensen Speed Trap The Speed N is a new lure very similar to the Speed Trap. The Speed N is close in size to the Speed Trap with a similar action. The Speed N is also made of butyrate. The Speed Trap is available in more colors. The Speed Trap also has some bluegill colors and chrome colors which the Speed N does not. Hopefully, Norman will add more colors in the future. The Speed N is made in Guatemala. The Speed Trap is made in China. The Speed N dove to around 5’ on the same setup that the Speed Trap reached 7’. The Speed N is heavier and casts further than the Speed Trap. The Speed N I purchased had no defects. The Speed N had a tight wiggle very similar to the Speed Trap. They both have a similar lip design. Like the Trap, the N also did not blow out on a fast retrieve. I could feel the action of the Speed Trap a bit more on my rod tip. I guess I would describe the vibration of the Trap as just a bit crisper compared to the N. The Speed N did have a different rattle from the Trap. The Speed N makes more of a thud knock rattle. The Speed N has 2 chambers that run horizontally across the bottom of the bait that each house 1 fairly large ball. The balls have a limited range of motion, they can move and knock side-to-side. The Speed Trap has one medium ball in a horizontal chamber on the belly with very limited moment that provides a very subtle knock and a smaller ball free roaming in the open body that gives off a fairly high pitch rattle. I have only fished with the Speed N one time and caught no fish in 40 degree water so I can’t attest to its ability to catch fish. I have had years of success with the Speed Trap. It would be great to have a successful Speed Trap like lure that can hit shallower water. It will be interesting to see how the Speed N does next year. Neither lure performs well being dragged across 6 inches of ice. Jim
    5 points
  5. Update: I received my order yesterday. I assumed I would never get it and the money was gone. I wasn't too concerned about it, getting invaded by Russia is a valid excuse to not fulfill orders. I was very surprised when I found the box on my doorstep. I ran all 3 aluminum molds today and they shot perfect. I might place another order just to help the cause.
    4 points
  6. Here is a simple method for making some stencils I came up with I lay down a sheet of aluminum foil , sprayed with butter flavored Pam ( that was all I had , I suspect regular Pam would also work ) Drizzle hot glue randomly , about 10 " above work surface . If you want thick lines you can let the glue spread before cooling down or the thinner lines cool down quickly - I just blew air on them to set at what stage I wanted . Clean with soap and water . They are soft and pliable and can be clipped around lure like tulle or laid down as usual . I am going to try doing this method on blank square bill ( sprayed with butter Pam first ) to see if it will hold the shape once cooled down , more ideas will have to wait till next weekend
    4 points
  7. Yep there's not a thing wrong with Ozark Trail baits. Just like any other brand of baits they all have some good ones & they all have some that may not be as good as the next but all brands have some that will catch fish. We use to use a bait that actually got us made fun of by some guys saying we were crappie fishing. Well guess what after winning 1st & big fish the next 6 times straight they didn't make so much fun of us again. I really enjoyed when they asked what we caught them on & laughing when telling them & they thought i was lying to them. A shame it wasn't a big name brand or color anybody thought would catch fish.
    4 points
  8. The best wake I've ever fished was/is the CL8 baits Baby Possum. It has a wide, flat bottom, a mostly flat top and a reverse cut joint that is fairly tight. It's lip depth below the bait is about equal to the baits heighth and the lip is very close to the front of the bait. It sits pretty low in the water, with just the top 3/16 inch sticking out of the water. The waking version weighs right at 4 oz's but fishes extremely heavy, like it weighs 6 oz and can wear you out even with the right rod. It seems to be a small compact package that is very dense. I've had great luck with the fish just crushing the bait, especially around wood. My wake making experience has been primarily with resin baits. When making a 2 pc bait, I use the 60/40 guideline, 60 being the front section. 50/30/20 for a 3 pc bait, with a short tail. When I draw out a design, I always include a drawn in tail, This will help me judge the size the tail section will wind up being and the overall shape of the bait. I've made a couple the with even shorter tail section on a two pc and the tail section will slap pretty hard back and forth. Also take into account for the length of the joint cut itself. Cutting certain angle joints can have the effect of shortening the front section while lenghtening the second section, creating unbalanced proportions. You want the front section and the lip to drive the back section with it's movement, not have the back section hump the front. See a lot of new glides out there with a longer tail section than front, makes for a weird swim. I've made a couple myself. I use 1/8 Lexan/Poly for lips, never needed anything bigger, even on 10-12 inch wakes. I have a tablesaw blade that cuts a 1/8th inch kerf so the lips will slip right in the slot. When testing, I'll cut different shaped and length lips and wrap with blue painters tape around the inserted section to keep the test lip tight. In a wake I want a hard back and forth slap not a rolling type swim. Taller wakes don't make for great bait IMHO, I think they tend to roll more and that kills some of the tail action. Different if you have a rat type tail, they tend to create good action behind most style baits. Wakes can act dramatically different if the linetie is on the nose or under the nose towards the lip like a squarebill CB. I think a guy needs to try both positions to see how it affects your bait. AZsouth helped me troubleshoot a wake bait I was making. Made a bunch of adjustments. We moved the lipslot forward, the linetie back and I moved the joint spacing back and forth. We finally found right combination of those factors the bait came alive and had a great consistant swim. You just have to work to find the right combo for your particular bait. It was like the timing of the sections and the tail movements were finally right and moved in unison and made great sounds. That one looked like a Frankenbait but swam good. Make sure each section floats level with each other, independent of each other, so the joint{s} won't bind. *90 lip will help keep the bait waking and on the surface. Kick the lip out some and it will start to crank down. I make a couple resin wakes with no added weights in the bottom. Just some solid resin in the bottom and the hardware, MB mix up top. I would think that wood wakes will need some lead ballasting. This had been some of my experiences, hope it helps...
    4 points
  9. I learned a lot from screwing up building lures over the last 25+years. I didn’t have YouTube or much information it was just carve and see if it works There was a 10year period I built min 10 different lures a day and tested them in my personal pond. Most crude or completely odd looking lipless lures My point don’t just rely on available information only because it will limit your knowledge. If you have an idea try it experiment screw up and adjust.
    4 points
  10. Simple trick with lipless crankbaits move the weight up from the belly. The instability will give a wider shimmy. About 1/4 up from the belly often works well As for shape wider forehead wider wobble. Thinner will be faster and tighter Slope of the forehead plays a roll too best thing to do is make a few basic designs and test a few different things till you find what you like. Then make a nice one with paint and clear coat
    4 points
  11. You cannot. They're made with a different substance which does not melt with heat. All you'll get is burned rubber/plastic.
    4 points
  12. This is correct. Unfortunately, with mail order it's simply not possible for us to make much, if any, profit on orders below $15. We run a very streamlined business, but even small orders have to pass through at least 2 to 3 people before they're out the door. Larger organizations can afford to simply take the hit on small orders (or they haven't done the analysis to determine if it's profitable), but we're small (around 15 employees) and plan on staying that way, so we have to be more diligent on issues such as this. We recognize this is frustrating, but we do try to be upfront and honest about it. We're also always looking for ways to better serve all of you, so if we can identify a way to fulfill smaller orders without losing money on every one, we'll certainly make it an option. Matt Barlow
    4 points
  13. I too placed an order just prior to the invasion for a custom mold. Victor has been great to keep in communication with me. Pondered trying to do refund through PayPal due to the amount I spent but I figured the heck with it. I’ll either get it or I won’t. They have to much to worry about right now.
    4 points
  14. It could be an old Flatfish X5. The X stood for ‘Expert’. Helin got the patent for the Flatfish in 1936. It could also be a knockoff of the Flatfish as it was widely sold and copied through the years. I don’t think it is a Kwikfish which came after the Flatfish. The Kwikfish usually has traditional type hook arrangements. It does not appear to be Lazy Ike which is narrower than a Flatfish. It also does not appear to be a Brooks Reefer or a Beno lure. Your lure has the body length and weight of a Flatfish X5 which came out in 1947-8. It was available in wood or plastic. The hook setup on your lure is different from the typical X5 which had 3 trebles, a tail treble and two belly trebles mounted to the ends of a single wire spreader that had a loop in the middle that went through the belly hanger. Helin called that hardware setup - ‘gang hooks’. Some of the models could be ordered with two double hooks or gang single hooks. The older Fly Rod Flatfish models came with a single hook that could swing on a piece of wire imbedded in the center of the belly. Some of the bigger fly rod models had 2 single hooks mounted gang style. The biggest Fly rod model was the F7 which was 2-1/4” long. Your bait looks like an X5 but with a fly rod type hook set up. The line tie wire also looks like the line tie on some of the Fly Rod Flatfish models. Your lure looks like it was an attempt to use the X series to make a bigger model in the F series. From what I have read, Charlie Helin was concerned about increasing the chances of a hooking fish that did hit the lure. He created some unusual hook layouts and designs on baits to keep hooks facing away from each other or on opposite sides of the bait. I would not fish with it. It could be worth something. It could be one of Helin’s designs that was only available for a short time. Even if it is a knockoff, some of the older well made knockoffs can be worth something. helin hook assembly us2621438.pdf
    4 points
  15. This thread has been locked to prevent it from becoming a disaster
    4 points
  16. I use a metal coat hanger. I make an L but turn the bottom back towards the vertical part forming a second wire about an inch above the base. That gives me a bottom scrubber and a mixer just above the bottom. It fits in a gallon jug. An electric drill does the work.
    4 points
  17. Yep, the Deep Secret. Probably the deepest diving small body lure. Speed Trap body, trench digger lip. There's nothing wrong with casting it once you get past the lack of a weight transfer chamber, some helicoptering, and the lip causing the lure to sail off course in random directions on nearly every cast.
    4 points
  18. I would suggest moving your line tie a little higher on the nose and try that before changing lip location. Personally I think your lip needs to be moved forward some also. I've had to move a lip forward before to get a bait to wake better. I had to remove the old lip, fill the slot and cut a newer slot a fair amount forward. We called it the Frankenbait, as it had been cut apart and glued back together in various places, but it worked afterward. As Dave and JD above stated, try a shorter, wider lip. I've found those tend to get a taller profile bait like a gill, to wake better. The lip you're showing will want to make the bait dive or crank down, IMHO. Depending on how you have the bait ballasted, how low it floats in the water will also effect how it swims. Mine worked best as a very low float, barely floating with the back just out of the water, throws a great dual wake. The lip and nose create the big V wake and the tail will create swirling vortiscies{sp} to each side, inside the V wake. I would move the front hook hanger back a hair also, looks like the front treble will hang up on the lip when casting. That's a great looking bait, nice carving and paint, get er' waking and she will get crushed!! Here are a couple pics of a gill wake I made after moving all the components to get it to wake nice. This is a resin bait BTW, 6 inch long and just under 5 oz. Good luck moving forward with this bait and Happy Holidays to all!
    4 points
  19. I've not seen anything for spindle blanks. But there are plenty of CNC wood engravers that you could make half sides of crankbaits with to make mold masters. You could also probably make halves of any lure to though wire. I've contemplated this but never pulled the trigger and i just do low volume and like to carve lol.
    4 points
  20. I built this lathe to turn my cork handles, out of a $5.00 sewing machine motor, and $6.00 bushings.
    4 points
  21. You don't need to cure separate colors most of the time. I have one pattern, Table Rock Shad, that I have to cure the base coat first before adding the accent color. That pattern has a chartreuse body with a purple back and when I do the body and then add the purple and then cure it, where ever the purple touches the chartreuse it turns brown. So I paint the chartreuse and then cure and afterward I add the purple and then cure again with the purple and no problem. That is a rare case, most of the time the colors don't blend when curing. I use a hobby sandblaster to spray powder paint, it is like an air brush but you can't do fine detail. The good part is that you can blend colors and you can get good fading effects, watch my video on how I do this.
    4 points
  22. Never used it, but most slow cure epoxy products hold up over time and most fast cure get brittle and yellow over time. If it is fully cured in 30, I suspect it will yellow in about one year. If 30 minutes is the working time, it should be good.
    4 points
  23. Looks good so far! Keep it up. Don't be discouraged if you make a lure and it totally is a flop. We have all been there. Just give it a try, don't overthink your first lures. The tough part of a diving crankbait is getting the lip slot to be perpendicular to the wood so it dives true. I like to cut that slip slot while i have flat sides. You will have to kind eyeball where to put the lip. At this point I would take some 80 or 120 grit or so and sand it to the shape you like it. Maybe finish off with 220 or so. Then cut the lip slot/put wire in and weight (it will most likely need a bit of weight to give it a ballast). Once all the hardware is in, I would seal the wood one way or another. It helps keep any moisture out, but really it can help the overall appearance of your lure. There are tons of methods - polycrylic, polyurethane, superglue, epoxy are a few. Size and shape of the diving lip will be tricky to if you want to make a unique lure. Honestly, copy one of your favorites to start. It will give you a feel for how it works. Then you can start making the same kinda lure and try different size or shapes or angles, there are many options. You can learn a lot from the ones you fail at too! There is tons to talk about - keep asking questions.
    3 points
  24. I wouldn't change a thing. If it catches fish you can't ask for anything else.
    3 points
  25. I've tried every glue known to man and clear dipping trumps them all.
    3 points
  26. I would avoid China had an order and had to get my money back after 3 months of emails. I ordered from Amazon and had the same product in 3 days. Let's all stick to USA products I know it is hard too, but we must try I don't want to get political so I will stop at this point. Everything I pick up is almost all from China. I understand that this is the Delima this country is in, we just have to do are best I know it sometimes comes down to cost and we don't even know we are buying a product from China. Wayne
    3 points
  27. Wow! Lots of great feedback on here! @AZ Fisher, I feel like you just took me to school on this, and I am excited to put some of this stuff into practice. @Flaswimbaiter, I hate the feeling of painting one up and making look just great then having it not swim like it did previously. Nothing hurts quite like drilling into a nice paint job and clear coat to add or adjust some lead...
    3 points
  28. Wagner dual heat from Home Depot. Never had a problem with it.
    3 points
  29. Recipes do transfer pretty well but if I remember right smooth on just slightly lighter. I didn’t notice an impact on action though. for issues with air bubbles cutting small air vents in the mold is the real key. If I notice air bubbles in an part of the blank I cut a vent. I maybe overkill but it is not uncommon for me to cut 8 vents on a 6-8 inch bait As for pouring I have done some interesting things pouring baits with different layers. I actually pour on different angles for different layers for some baits. When I first start drawing up a bait there is a lot of thought into how things settle into the body shape but I need to get ready for work
    3 points
  30. As long as you have the hook hangers and tie point in the master well making the mold it is easy. Just put the harness in and clamp your mold. Really no need for a full harness if you are pouring your hardware into the lure. I use 1 1/2 inch eye screws in my pike lures and no issues pulling out or turning. I have also used twisted wire with two eyes so the resin basically creates a peg through the end inside the body. I have suspended rattle chambers using 4lb mono fishing line even when you pour things into the bait they are encapsulated in resin and hold extremely well. Resin baits are also tougher then wood so odds of tear out is much lower
    3 points
  31. This gel is just on the outside of the bait. I think some of the additives used might be destroyed by the high heat of the plastisol.
    3 points
  32. that is my style I was not going to post it because I don’t repaint plastic lures(rare if I even buy them) and I usually loose a lure to a snag before I consider repainting in general But I when I do I am too lazy to strip off the paint so a opaque white base coat is all I do Truth is my personal baits are often my blemished mistakes so I don’t care what they look like as long as the fish bite them
    3 points
  33. After trying UV resin last fall, I can't imagine I'll ever use anything else again. Dip, hang, fishable lure in under 5 minutes. Smooth and rock hard. The cheap stuff on Amazon works great.
    3 points
  34. This is a 2" mouse . I carved this out of PVC , used Badger hair for body and feathers for head . The tail is a t-stop for pegging weights
    3 points
  35. Just to answer Deadly Duck’s original post, good baits are symmetrical and have their hardware exactly on the center line of the body. This suggests you mark a center line all around the bait after the blank is first cut out but BEFORE you start shaping and rounding it. Weight placement is variable but in my experience, many commercial custom baits use a one piece belly hanger/ballast weight. Lurepartsonline sells them. Of course, you can weight your bait wherever and however you want and build your hook hangers and line tie however too. But generally I like mine at the hanger with any additional ballast placed in front of the hanger.
    3 points
  36. Happy to be here, and we're grateful to LPO (the owners of this forum) for allowing us to participate. Not many competitors would tolerate that, and it speaks volumes to their commitment to the craft. And thanks to all of you for the engagement. Over the years you've helped us identify ways to improve our service, suggested products that have sold well, and been an incredible resource to us and our customers. We try to stay engaged here and on other forums, though it's sometimes tough to keep up with everything, especially during the busy season. You can always email me at mattbarlow@barlowstackle.com or call at 972-231-5982 with any questions or needs.
    3 points
  37. If they're all the same, get a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, dump the liquid in, cut the gallon jugs and scrape out the hard pack. Put the hard pack in the 5 gallon bucket with the liquid and use a paint mixer on your drill.
    3 points
  38. Thanks guys! I've got another video coming up that I'm working on right now to increase the durability on big softbaits where these Magdrafts will make another return. I'll post it when that project is finished!
    3 points
  39. Guys select wood for different reasons. Some it may simply be what is available at the local big box store, some may be trying to combat toothy critters and select harder/dense woods, some select wood based on the workability, and others properties of the finished baits. I make bass lures and typically use basswood and some balsa. I like them both for different reasons. The basswood is nice to carve (probably one of the most selected by wood carvers based on properties). Overall it lends itself to a high degree of modification with respect to weight placement to get the actions I want. A more dense wood behaves a little differently. Balsa I like because it makes for a very lively buoyant bait. Around cover they are great due to the deflection properties and quick rise and helps to reduce hang ups. I like to make some smaller balsa sammies for creek smallies. They are some of the "snappiest" versions I have fished and can be cast a mile. Besides lighter 2 part polyurethane foam molded lures haven't found much that is close. If I was making larger lures for muskies, pike, or some inshore species would select something a little more dense. I would also likely be using power tools more often.
    3 points
  40. Chris, you’re right that a line tie in the nose of a wood bait can be a weak point, especially in soft balsa. If you break the finish in the bait while tuning it will be a goner quickly. Rather than use a steel screw eye, many builders use hand twisted screw eyes made from soft temper stainless steel or brass, either of which is easy to bend to tune a bait. I use .041” soft temper stainless from McMaster-Carr online in standard sized bass baits. It’s easy to twist accurately and plenty tough enough to last well, and won’t break finish while tuning the bait.
    3 points
  41. We don’t need no stink’n badges!
    3 points
  42. I get my tabs for LPO, Janns, Barlows, fishingskirts.com, jigjunkie and other ebay sellers, where ever I can find what I want. I break down bass jigs into 2 main categories, crawfish and baitfish imitators. I usually shoot for 50-55 strands (2 and a half tabs) on both unless it is a finesse jig in which case I go for 40-44 (2 tabs). With crawfish imitator jigs, I am usually casting to a target like a laydown, dock, or rock, letting the jig sink to the bottom and hoping/dragging it back along the bottom. I mostly use black, black/blue, green pumpkin varieties with a craw or chunk trailer. I would start with those colors on craw imitators. Green pumpkin works well in clear water. If it is super clear, I would try watermelons or a magic craw color. I sometimes use brown colors like big Texan. The crawfish imitator type jigs I use have Arkie type heads. I occasionally use football heads in rocks. Most of the skirts on these jigs are one color (2 and half tabs of the same color tab). The rest are 2 tabs of one color and a half tab of an accent color like 2 tabs of a brown and an orange accent half tab or 2 tabs of black with a half tab of blue for accent. You can add some additional color with the trailer. Menace grubs make good trailers as you can use them horizontally for craws and vertically if going for a baitfish look. The baitfish imitating jigs (swim jigs) have more tapered heads, sort of bullet shaped. I cast these jigs out and retrieve with a slow to medium retrieve. I am using these to cover water horizontally, especially in weeds. They range in colors to match my local baitfish like gold shiner, perch, silver shiners, and bluegill. I use these jigs with a paddle tail swimbait, grubs, and ribbon tail worms with the head cutoff. The skirts on these are usually more complex involving 2-4 colors. I would recommend starting with either gold shiner, silver shiner / shad type color, perch or bluegill as you have stated. For gold shiner, I put a half tab of black with gold flake for a back, main body of one and a half tabs of metallic gold/gold shiner/ or gold baitfish, and a half tab of chartreuse or orange (or a mix of the 2) for the belly or clear with gold flake for the belly for clear water. For yellow perch, I use yellow or chartreuse with black stripes from the ‘living image’ or ‘real bait’ series for the main body, a half tab of black with gold flake or black with green flake for the back, a quarter to half tab of some type of orange for the belly. Different sellers call the striped tabs by different names. For silver, I go with black with silver flake for the back or pumpkin with green flake for a back for more of an emerald shiner look, metallic silver or silver sil-a-chrome or a mix of the two for a main body, and white with silver flake or pearl for a belly. I sometimes modify this with a few strands of purple in the back and more of the white with silver or pearl for more of a shad look. For bluegills, I have two type of skirts because in the northeast bluegill vary widely color. The first pattern is two tabs of green pumpkin blue flake with barbed wire stripes. The belly is comprised of some pumpkin with chartreuse tip and sapphire with green pumpkin tip, usually a quarter tab of each for the belly. The other pattern is a mix of the green pumpkin above with metallic gold or gold baitfish and sapphire with blue flake for more of a shiney clear water bluegill color. I tried to go no less than a quarter of tab on a color and no more than 4 colors on a skirt. At 3-4 colors, it is hard to get them to line up to where you want them. Over 4 colors is a pain. I use silicone skirt bans. After I get the band on the tabs, I try to line up colors where I want them before cutting the tab ends off. It is easier to arrange the skirt with the tab ends intact. I put the skirt on the jig and adjust the tabs as necessary. Then, I will do any tying. I tie above the band and get the skirt locked in at the base of the head. Lately, I have just been putting a colored zip tie on top on the silicone band instead of any tying. After I get the skirt tied or banded, I cut the tab ends off. When you buy your tabs, save a quarter to a half tab and the plastic bag it came in. A certain color may vary from company to company. Some vendors use the same series and/or color numbers. Having a tab sample with the label showing the company’s name and product number will make it easier to find replacements and do comparisons from company to company.
    3 points
  43. its kind of sad, dead on gets a great reputation from youtube, but if you watch the videos saying how clear it is, you cant even see the sides of a 1 cup pyrex, and it always has bubbles in it. i use bp and have been very happy with it, might try calhoun again but im happy with bp so no real reason to change. either way ill never try dead on after hearing what real bait makers have to say. youtube and some facebook fanboys sell a lot of dead on, not for me thats for sure!
    3 points
  44. Not sure what the expectations of this product were or are. Just to explain what it is from what I have recieved. It is hilite put on clear film and cut into glitter. An explosion of color is not what you get. But you can get a transparent bait with flashes of the color you choose. Clear and light smoke color will get you the highest quality affect. Putting it in an opaque color will not yield a result that is worth the effort to put it in.
    3 points
  45. Usually you can go up or down one size on a Do-It mold. If you need to go really big, take the hook place it in the mold, close the mold and lightly tap the mold with a hammer. This will give you an impression on the mold halves on where you need to cut. The you can use a Dremel as mentioned above or a hand file. The mold is alum. and soft, so go slow and steady.
    3 points
×
×
  • Create New...
Top