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My vote would be horizontal, or nose to tail. Dave

I see he disparages others a lot. As if only his opinions count. I may only be a hobbyist but I've learned by making all the mistakes. What I like, which of my baits catch fish, Whose product has been the best for me. I've bought molds from many, from the very first silicone molds I used to shelves full of molds from Angling AI , Delmart, Jacobs, Fat Guys Fishing ( he doesn't like them ) Even the Do it CNC, LureCraft. Colorant up the wazoo for experimenting with. Tried every brand of plastic through the years. But...because I'm only a hobbyist, I have wasted all these years. On this forum we hobbyists bring a lot to the table. Have helped many novices, helped others fix their issues. That's what were supposed to do. To the original poster, jfdodge, we're here to help, not knock others down. Need more help ask ask away. 99 out of 100 times you ask, you'll get the answers you need. But there's always that one. Take advantage of the help they offer, and ignore the knocks on others. We're all here to help.

Commercial screw eyes are vulnerable if you put them in balsa baits without also epoxying the hole they’re in. A hard knock can loosen the eye and cause it to rip out. If it loosens but doesn’t rip out, water will infiltrate and ruin the bait anyway. I prefer hand twisted screw eyes epoxied into pre-drilled holes. I’ve never had a failure with them. Making a durable balsa bait, or any wood bait for that matter, is mostly about stopping water infiltration.

we still build. cedar baits. many on lathe,s or bandsaw.all are wire thru.up here on l.st clair for toothy critters.

I used to fish with Billy and Bobby Westmorland on the Obey River. His mom has cooked me dinner. I ate breakfast with Paul Banks/Buddy Banks many times at Scottys restaraunt in Celina TN. Billy lived on "Small mouth Drive" near Stan Sloan. This ain't my 1st rodeo. Please stop thinking and posting like you are the only one making baits on this planet. You do this all over the internet. Many people know more than you think and maybe more than you.

Shoulders are usually quite a bit bigger than the bottom of the lure, the belly weights should be as low as possible and static. This is the learning curve of building your own bait, knowing were and how much weight is tricky at best. Ad weight to the belly hook and see how it affects the swim. Remember +/- 1 gram can be the difference between a good bait and a paper weight.

For the IOS Safari users, I found a workaround. Thank you all for your responses and suggestions. Go to App Store and search Adblockplus for Safari. Free app and the app symbol is a stop sign with ABP in the sign. It’s free for download. After it’s downloaded, go to settings, Safari, extensions, and enable adblockplus. TU is now pop up and add free for me.

Pour the 1/8 oz Snootie jig in tin. More than a third less weight than lead. Lead 11.342 grams per cubic centimeter Bismuth 9.87 grams per cubic centimeter Pewter 8.5-9.5 grams per cubic centimeter Tin 7.265 grams per cubic centimeter

I'd recommend carefully cutting it in half with a saw or dremel tool. If you dissolve the lure, you won't be able to tell where the ballast was located.

And don't sell yourself too cheap! Charge enough so you can make money, and feel good about yourself. Otherwise, you're committing financial suicide.

Ever since Eagle Claw retooled to using black nickle or platinum hooks several years ago, I find both the Mustad and Eagle Claw to be very comparable to each other. The length, bend and hook eye length are very similar. Sharpness is excellent for both. The only difference I've seen is that one manufacturer may have thicker wire diameter than the other, but it is really insignificant. Also Eagle Claw is usually less pricey.

Maybe you could make a homemade tool like this until you can save up for a proper bender? Or perhaps a Janns Netcraft Tack-L-tool would work and fit your budget? https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/041571100003

For those of you who have fished a wedding ring spinner for trout or made your own variants using the wedding ring like I have you know how expensive they are. Sure the stack beads are cheap but, the Macks wedding rings cost over $5 for a pack of three. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/search?keywords=Wedding ring spinner&page=1 I've been testing out a much cheaper option. A box of 900 Rondells on Amazon cost about $12. They look the same, quality seems similar, and the Alaskan King Salmon can't tell the difference! https://a.co/d/95cQpaX

Alaska Department of Fish and Game has a standard set of regulations but then will manipulate those with Emergency Orders for specific regions, rivers, species etc. where they deem necessary to more intensively manage.

You're right—wood grain direction is crucial for lure strength. Try cutting the grain parallel to the lure’s length to improve durability. Also, sealing with epoxy or reinforcing with a through-wire can help prevent breakage on impact.

Worm oil is DINP (diisononyl phthalate) or DOP (dioctyl pthalate), both of which are a pthalate used as a plasticizr. it's not a liquid oil in the traditional sense but a chemical compound that is mixed with the plastic resin during manufacturing. From what I understand it is basically the compound that is used to make the plastisol finished product softer ( more oil )or harder ( less oil ) Much as hardener is what we see as the hard pack in the bottom of the jugs our plastisol comes in. Is the white part a PVC compound? Maybe this is right, maybe I oversimplified it?

I agree.... What is that supposed to look like? LOL... I have no interest in making those either, And I have been trying for over 40 years. 8^)

All of the weight of the fish will be on the hook, not the bead chain.

Likewise. IMHO the MF products were the best. There may be a lot of detractors here, all who I'm sure have their reasons, but seems to me there are still a bunch of people here pulling for him to make the business into the success it was, and still could be. His health, or anyone's health comes first, then onto rebuilding the business.

This would be my choice https://store.do-itmolds.com/Casting-JigbrSz-18-316-14brHk-32886brCollar-Ring-amp-Barb_p_947.html

Similar, But Gamakatsu would not leave flush cutter marks on the finished product. That is someones home pour. Not even close to the viper head.

Google "safety wire twister pliers manual" I also use them to wire tie the skirts on. The auto return has a spring that makes them harder to use on 20-22 gauge copper wire. Eagle Claw makes their premium hook line. They are very good.

I meant 5/16" deep.

I use just a standard bobbin. There is nothing special about it. I have more than one. I bought them at a local fly shop. I would be hard pressed to get by without one.

Since the OP already has other molds, I don't understand the advantage of having a single mold for tying and pinning plastics? Since Smalljaw ties bucktail on a no collar head, perhaps the best solution would be a wire keeper head which can be cast with or without the keeper. Do-it conveniently offers many jig head styles utilizing both eye sockets and wire keepers to suit both aesthetic and functional preferences.

Used everything from baking foil to HVAC foil. I prefer HVAC tape and it allows me to add some nice scales to it. Never had an issue with epoxy taking to it. You can check the hardbait gallery for some of my work. I’ve used various 2 part epoxies and KBS. No issues.

Oh spare my feelings, I was just pointing out that you are a know it all pampas ass. Nothing more lol.

Microwave is the only option really if quick is a requirement.

Many different airbrushes, I like Iwata brand. SB Coat paint from Lure Works. This is a solvent based paint designed for soft plastic baits. This is important, get a good paint respirator rated for organic vapors from solvents. If you can't afford a paint booth rated for flammable materials, paint outdoors or in a well ventilated area. This type of paint is very bad for your lungs and is flammable. Don't half ass the safety precautions. Some people use water based paints and then dip in clear plastisol, I've never tried it.

What about a wire straightener like this one? It's made for the task. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/american-fishing-wire-deluxe-wire-straightener-tool?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Cabelas|Shopping|PMax|Fishing|HighMargin|NAud|NVol|NMT&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsy1BhD7ARIsAHOi4xYcyMWz40llJTuAKIN9nXMPTMEA2Npf4QOJtmdIUoRzOMK-5A8WyMEaAgY-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

wire straightner. it is a 3d print file.

I'm down a rabbit hole now guys haha, but thanks for the help. BobP I'm really happy with the glow powder I bought, it shines brighter 45 mins in a dark closet. It's really coarse and you're right it's the way to go. I just need to apply it smoothly now. Kasilo, I'm looking at getting a Badger to apply the powder paint. I'll keep you posted on the results. My buddy got a tank of a chinook today on one I made so I'm getting there. I messed up putting the scale tape on and it looked terrible but turns out the fish don't care. I think he bit it because of the glow! I wish I could ask.

Or some old lead chimney flashing.I know exactly what you mean. When the first run comes out, it's awesome. The shine is incredible. Then comes the reheat, and bleh. Add it to the pile that is used to make more black. It's a shame because the shine from this stuff is intense. Just small batches.\I guess is the way to go.

I have on some glitter. It was a silver, also. Some of it just won’t take much heat.

On the bismuth or tin, all you have to do is empty your current pot of lead and put in the tin or bismuth. If you are going to do a couple of jigs for samples, take an old tablespoon or a small ladle, put a small chunk of tin, and heat the spoon/ladle with a torch and pour it into a hot mold. You can heat the cavity of the mold with a torch to to warm it up as well. Tin has a low melting point about 425 degrees lower than lead. I don't know how strong it is though. Bismuth is very hard, as I have poured bismuth jigs for the guys in Massachusetts. On the jigs, the walleye jig has a 90 degree hook, so I don't know if that is an issue for you. The other two are 60 degree hooks. You can incorporate a weedguard slot like Jig Man mentioned it is not complicated.

Hello, I thing using screw eyes versus making wire eyes can depend on the design and durability you're aiming for. Using .062 screw eyes from Janns should provide more. May you might consider reinforcing the screw eyes with epoxy or another adhesive to secure them in place. This can help ensure your bait holds up well during use.

Watch this - and this -

.041 wire is just right for all but the smallest or largest cranks. But the secret is that it needs to be SOFT TEMPER stainless wire, not the hard stuff.

I'm liking the twisted wire...sometimes a solid through the body wire. The wire is easier to get o-rings on. Like @Fishwhittlersaid, once it epoxied in place...the bond-to-wood is stronger than the wood itself.

Observations I've made over the years: 1) Shipping costs have soared stressing the profit threshold, either charge more or eat profit in an effort to stay competitive. I used a 3% increase rule starting every January, it wasn't enough but it did ease some of the overall profit loss. 2) One of the mistakes I made was not weighing out the savings I would have by purchasing plastic in bulk. Had I done this sooner I would've doubled my profit over the long term. 3) Limiting waste, by this I mean I calculated out as near to the ounce I required for each pour based on cavity count. I was set on only using fresh plastic for my baits because of this it was much simpler to be consistent with the colors. 4) Building a new business and continuing it's growth are two different issues. I observed how certain company's were growing or not in most cases it was obvious why in either. I got caught up in the biggest trap for a period of time and had to make the decision to step back or I wasn't going to last much longer. The trap was the desire to have product in any retailer that wanted it which leads to all sorts of issues including the increase in time producing to meet demand. That might sound like a good problem to have, trust me it's not, between the mental and physical stress I almost had a nervous breakdown. 5) Good publicity isn't always good for a business: I give an example, it was my first year when I received a message from a major publication asking me to send some baits for an episode of their TV show. I was flattered at first then the reality of the opportunity hit me. I had one modified 5 cavity mold for that particular bait the allure of being on TV and a free add in their magazine would've caused a demand I could never fulfill. There was no way I could afford at the time to purchase and modify more molds to keep up. Good publicity would've turned into bad publicity because I would be known as the guy that couldn't supply. The moral of the story is just because it has potential that potential can't influence your decision making to the point it can bury you.

Decoy Rubber Threader https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Decoy_Rubber_Threader/descpage-RUBDS.html Works great.

Yes, that is exactly how I do it. Use the smallest needle you can fit the skirt material through. I do not use any glue, just let the plastic bait hold it in place. If fish bite and hold just the skirt, sometimes it comes out. But will stay in place pretty good.,

That particular Watermelon from MF must be made with a bleeding pigment or dye. MF usually notes which colors are non-bleed so you might check that color number to verify. My biased recommendation would be Watermelon 101 from LureWorks, beautiful non-bleed watermelon color.

There is no Elaztek. Elaztech is a material developed, produced and marketed by ZMan.

You can find hardware at Lure Parts Online, Barlows and or Jann's Netcraft,, as well as Ebay and Amazon. There are quite a few bait builders on Youtube, check out Engineered Angler, he does pretty thorough job of explaining the how and why of bait building. Check out Tackle Tours article, "Cutting open a $400 bait". They cut open a Roman Made Mother and you can see all the weight placement in the bottom of the bait for reference. Glide baits are about the most difficult baits to get right, they will take quite a bit of testing and experimentation to get a great gliding bait. Keep thorough notes, you will be surprised how much you will refer back to them Good luck and welcome to the forum

Excess humidity can and will cause KBS to flash, if you can live with blemishes I would do that. Otherwise strip and have back at it.

I will do that but have a bit of an issue as in I left town today on a weeklong Smallmouth trip up to Rainy Lake and it’s in my shop at home. I will see if I have an old photo of it and if I can find one I’ll post it. Otherwise, it’ll be a week or so.

I’ve built and painted them both ways and it didn’t seem to make a difference when fishing them. My takeaway was that ultra realism is not the determining factor in getting what is usually a reaction bite.