Tiderunner
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Everything posted by Tiderunner
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I have ordered a few of the MF exclusive colors from Zeiners. MF is the only supplier that has a very specific color that I use almost all the time. The webiste is showing my color is in stock, so I may just go ahead bite the bullet and order a pint. I;ll report back.
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I hate to revive an old thread, but I'm guessing MF is gone forever? I was able to get one order in, and haven't been able to get anything from them since February of 24. Website just shows pretty much everything as Sold Out.
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And with the money you save, you'll be able to by more molds! And down the rabbit hole you go. Just like the rest of us.
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I'm close to that same ratio. I'll use that amount to drop my MF medium to soft. If I'm adding salt or glass beading or even floating additive, I adjust from there. I'll even add softener to the soft blends when using additives. As far as using the same brand softener in like brand plastic, I wouldn't worry too much. I've been mixing and matching for years without issue. I don't want to keep buying more softener every time a manufacturer changes formula for their plastisol, and I change brands. I just use what I have whatever I have on hand. Example- I have almost exclusively used MF plastisol. But I can't get it anymore. I had also tried Dead On, and bought their softener to go with it. When I was able to get MF again, I just used Dead On Softener in my MF. No problems. Same with Bait Plastics. I used either MF or Do It brand of softener, no issues then either. Now I can't get MF again But still have at least a quart of Dead On softener. Don't know what platic I'll get to replace the MF, but I won't spend$$ for new softener. Same with Hardener. I've tried them all. I have LureCraft. I hate it because of the color and smell, so I tried Do It Crystal Clear. Worked fine in whatever plastic I was using. Others may have had different results. This is only my experience. Best I can tell you is, experiment And have fun.
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Thanks you Sir! Saw your post and already ordered.
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Much appreciated. I didn't find it there either.That's why I thought it might be the powder paint. If they no longer carry it, I can always try the Spike It brand.
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I've done some searching around, and the Do-It UV Blast Powder was listed under powder paints. Is this the stuff? The only other option I have found is the Spike It/Lureworks liquid, which after researching sounds as though it's a bit less user friendly. Although certainly not rocket science.Is this the Do It powder? And if it is, it is actually a powder paint. Does it affect the plastisol in any way. As far as mixing, I have made a little mixer attachment that fit into my Dremel that does an excellent job of mixing. https://store.do-itmolds.com/Clear-Pro-Tec-Powder-Paint_p_810.html
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If you can't find that post, you can always try what I and I'm pretty sure a lot of others here do. Heat up some plastisol, add softener pour some baits and keep going until you get the softness or firmness you want. Remember to write down your amounts. And keep in mind everybody may have a different idea on what a soft bait is, or a firm bait. Etc. And of course different baits call for different firmness. Good luck. I wish I had your problem of a good buy on plastisol! Hard or not.
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You should be a salesman for the UV additive company! You sold me. I will look at the Do-It brand, and see what else is out there. Thanks for all the info.
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I'm not sure using glow and uv together would work anyway. But you know how we all like to experiment. Any particular brand of the uv additive you prefer? As far as using the uv baits at night, I have a UV flashlight. A powerful one that I use for uv resins. That would activate the the uv at night, but the glow would work well enough by itself. I use mostly topwater stuff at night.
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Thanks for that info. Myself and fishing buddies fish either murky waters for largemouth. Or deep water clear lakes for smallies. So anything that might give an advantage in these two extremes is a plus. So as I get ready to set up the winter work shop, I'll have to order some. If it doesn't make a difference, it won't be the first thing I tried that was a bust. I will also probably make some saltwater stuff too. That would be deep murky waters. I already use glow baits. All curly tail grubs. So next season I can do a side by side test of glow and UV. Just thinking out loud here. I wonder what effect mixing UV and glow additives would be like?
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For my smallmouth bucktail jigs I just use the do it round head jig mold. I also use it for your exact reasons, I can use bare ones for a curly tail jig, or a paddletail swim bait. Do it has an eye socket round head jig mold that may fit your needs.
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Anybody here ever used a UV additive in their plastisol? Stuff sounds interesting, and the theory behind it plausible. I already use glow powders for deep saltwater use. And tried them for freshwater night fishing use with mixed reviews from people I shared them with. Made some 5" stick baits with a glow tail for people and one guy tried them with no luck. He cut one in half and used it as a ned rig, and had success with it that way, but that's another story. If you have made baits, or fished baits with a UV additive what were your results? Anytime I can get an advantage fishing I'll try it. Not sure I want to invest in this one.
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Soft plastic that does not leach oil out of baits?
Tiderunner replied to dv616's topic in Soft Plastics
I've used MF almost exclusively and have never had this problem. I cure my baits for a few days, then bag them in reular store bought zip lock bags. I add scented worm oil and sprinkle with salt. I have some baits stored now as long as 3 years. All are still flexible and usable. Are you pouring plastic from a gallon jug or something bigger? It almost seems like an issue with cooking, or mixing. The only time I have experienced oily baits with MF is when I got lazy mixing the plastisol. I agree with the Dead On thing. That plastisol has always left me with tacky and oily baits. But not MF. Instead of throwing out your oily type baits, try what I did. Lube and salt them. I use either kosher salt or regular table salt. The only issue I have ever had over time is sometimes the laminated colors might leach into one another. But that's my own fault. I have tried BP, don't recall any major issues with it. But I may have to switch to it due to the lack of availablity of MF. -
I see he disparages others a lot. As if only his opinions count. I may only be a hobbyist but I've learned by making all the mistakes. What I like, which of my baits catch fish, Whose product has been the best for me. I've bought molds from many, from the very first silicone molds I used to shelves full of molds from Angling AI , Delmart, Jacobs, Fat Guys Fishing ( he doesn't like them ) Even the Do it CNC, LureCraft. Colorant up the wazoo for experimenting with. Tried every brand of plastic through the years. But...because I'm only a hobbyist, I have wasted all these years. On this forum we hobbyists bring a lot to the table. Have helped many novices, helped others fix their issues. That's what were supposed to do. To the original poster, jfdodge, we're here to help, not knock others down. Need more help ask ask away. 99 out of 100 times you ask, you'll get the answers you need. But there's always that one. Take advantage of the help they offer, and ignore the knocks on others. We're all here to help.
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I pretty much do the same. Heat heat liquid plastisol to 350- 360. I've even gone as high as 375 more than once with issues, yellowing, scorching etc. Then while its cooling I pick out the glitter I'm using, and by then it should have cooled to where I can add glitter. I use a lot of the "sparkle" glitters that don't take heat well. Same thing with string glitters. Using a digital thermometer helps a lot.
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Sorry then. This "hobbyist" with over 30 years of bait making experience shouldn't have answered your question. Just thought I'd help. I promise it won't happen again.
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Welcome to the world of making your own. 1. To best duplicate the softness of a factory senko it's probably best to start with a soft sinking blend of plastisoL. If I'm using 6oz of plastic, I'll add enough salt to raise the volume by two ounces. Then I add about an ounce of softener. I prefer my senkos wiggly. I don't worry if they tear. I'll just make more. The softness is your own personal preference. You'll have to experiment, 2. Add the scent to the bag of cured baits. No sense adding the scent then having it boil off in the heating process. When bagging I even sprinkle some regular table salt. Doesn't hurt the baits, and I'm not sure it helps the fish bite. Again. Personal preference. 3. I have never seen a video where the molds are put on ice. The molds are aluminum. Think of having a car engine heated and then throwing cold water on it. The aluminum block will crack. Time for a new engine. I don't know for sure if the molds will crack but at the price of a good CNC mold, you don't want to find out the hard way. Besides, a hot mold shoots better, why get it heated, just to cool it down, just to have to heat it again. 4. No need to coat the molds with anything. Plenty of oils in the plastic. The baits will come right out of the mold without sticking. If using a sand casted mold, some guys coat the mold with PAM or a similar product. That's just for shine. Some bait makers have said the fish don't care if the bait is smooth and shiny. Again the same words...Personal preference. Not sure what a pneumatic injector is. I use either a single or a double injector. The plunger type. The usual type. In all my years of baitmaking, I have never had to keep pressure on the injector for 1-2 minutes. At most, I keep pressure on for about 10 seconds. If your molds aren't filling, check the temp of your plastic. Fresh plastisol should be injected at around 360*. You'll need to reach around this temp to convert the plastic. You can inject reheats at about 325*
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White glitter sounded like a good idea when I bought it. I've used it maybe twice, now it collects dust. Add that jar to all the other I experimented with and never used again. I put it right alongside the bottles of colorant I've experimented with and never use.
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Adding it before heating would only cook it off.. And if indeed it is water based Do Not add to raw plastisol before heating. Make your biats, let them cure day or so, then add BaitFuel to your bagged baits. But only do samples one or two baits, because you don't know what effect Bait fuel will have on finished baits. over the long term Once you see it's harmless, feel free to add as much as you want to your bagged baits.
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Or some old lead chimney flashing.I know exactly what you mean. When the first run comes out, it's awesome. The shine is incredible. Then comes the reheat, and bleh. Add it to the pile that is used to make more black. It's a shame because the shine from this stuff is intense. Just small batches.\I guess is the way to go.
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The string glitter hardly handled the heat. Even the sparkle glitters I have used, and I use them a lot handle the reheats. I will probably use the string glitters again. but only make small batches.
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Was scrounging through my supplies the other day looking for a silver hologram glitter to replicate fish scales and I found a jar of string glitter I didn't even know I had. Decided to give it a try. And never used it before. Was making paddle tail swimbaits. Heated my plastic first, then added the glitter. Awesome! It was perfect! Exactly what I was looking for. Plastic was clear and the glitter was awesome. Ok reheat time. Imagine my disappointment when after reheating to just under 320* the glitter totally disappeared. Disintegrated. This has only happened to me one other time, When using white glitter. Which I haven't used since. I will continue using the string glitter, but I will only cook enough of what I need to make one run. I have done this and so far so good. Heat plastic to 360 or so, let it cool, then add glitter. Anyone else have this experience?
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Just checked Barlows. They have them as well, and also in smaller sizes than Janns. They used to be sold in metric sizes but I see now they're sold in standard measurement for us American folks.
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Not sure what you mean by "crimping beads", but try Janns Netcraft. Do search for Hollow Metal Beads, or Solid Metal Beads. Pretty sure either of these can be crimped.