Boomer

I've used plain old hardware store enamel to my satisfaction. Rust Oleum and the brand that comes in the orange and black cans (Fix All?). In the rivers I fish, the jigs are a consummable, its not all unusual to go through 25-30 jigs in a day. No rocks but a lot of snags. Wal Mart now carries Rust Oleum in the bright colors I prefer. So I don't worry about durability too much. Using white enamel as a base coat really helps the colors. I either brush or dip. Brush makes a better finish as dipping will drip without a dryer, which I don't have. One thing I found out from an old time painter is that enamel shares one thing with epoxy-- it actually takes a long time to cure. I found that adding a little heat like from a heat lamp or even a reflector lamp makes the enamel substantially harder. I don't clear overcoat the jigs that I use plastic curly tails on -- just extra work for my style fishing. I do overcoat jigs with marabou or hair because I coat the threads, and that definitely improves the life of the jig. I recommend enamel on small jigs. 1/4 oz. and down.

Any flammable powder suspended in air (technically an areosol) presents an explosion hazard. That's why the occasional grain silo turns into an ICBM. Coal mines, ships, sawmills are other common hazardous sites. A not uncommon accident is to have the dust collection system in woodworking shops go KA-BOOM, which is the reason the pipes (usually plastic) leading to the collector have to be bonded -- the static electricity generated by the moving dust will also turn it into an explosive.

Companies for bullet reloaders (actually bullet molders) often have tin. One that comes to mind is Midway , but there are many others.

Tin is a viable alterantive in the sense that it will work with current equipment. There used to (still may be ) a company in New Jersey that featured all tin jigs. Bismuth should work but the cost is prohibitive. Anyway what a load of crap. There is no science to support the ban on lead. Its an ELEMENT for goodness sakes -- that means its ELEMENTAL. If I'm not mistaken, Canada is one of the leading producers of lead.[/b]

You want silcone surgical tubing which should be available locally. If not try: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=Silicone+Tubing&product%5Fid=Silicone+Tubing+High%2DLow+Temperature

You might want to check the metal you're using. Some wheel weights have a lot zinc, which doesn't mely but forms a crusty honey comb mass. The lead will pour off and you're left with the junk. Try a lead alloy of known composition (bar solder if you have to0 and see whatresults you get.

I'm guessing that its not pure lead. Everyone always says scratch it with a finger nail, and I'll not argue with that, but being one who is never without a pocket knife I like to slice it with my knife. Pure lead will give you a nice long shaving and the newly exposed metal is bright sliver color. Alloys are harder and don't "slice", and the metal isn't as shiny. BUT What difference does it make. The only mold that I've ever found it critical to use pure lead is for split shot.

I try it nearly every time I cast jigs, it just seems like you ought to be able to do it. You can't. One thing I do that I learned from casting bullets, is that if you have enough time and are casting enough jigs, is to put them in a coffee can or similar suitable container. As they accumulate they will begin to hold considerable heat collectively. Then if you have a hot air gun, it takes less time to heat them up and powder paint.

I have one of the industrial paint remover type heat guns with two settings, high and low. On high with 1/16 and 1/8 oz. jigs, about 4 or 5 seconds, if not slightly less. Its really too hot for the 1/16 oz jigs, especially flat ones like the minow head Do-it molds. Round ones are not too bad but you can melt the 1/16 oz. in a blink. Once they soften their gone. One nice thing is that if they're not quite hot enough, you can heat them up again and the paint will either flow enough to cover them or you can put them back in the paint. I've made some pretty nice looking two tone jigs. When you get to 1/2 jigs it takes considerably more.