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auburn fisheries dude

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Posts posted by auburn fisheries dude

  1. Need help with an idea for a ratttle trap

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I think this concept will work, having the holes on the side like that, low pressure passing over the holes will pull water through the front or main hole. Think of the air conditioning in a car, when the vents are closed, you get average air flow, but once you crack open the sun roof, it feels like air is shooting out at you.

    Oh BTW, where is your ballast? i'm having trouble locating it in the rattle trap i am casting, but most agreed that it should be low and towards the nose

  2. So i just tested out my first cast lure (FAILED)

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I would recommend going to some different online tackleshops and take a look at some different lipless cranks in "ghost" colors to see what they are doing with the ballast. I am not going to post the pics because they are not mine and I don't want to steal bandwith.

    Where you put the ballast depends on how you want the lure to behave. My favorite lipless cranks tend to be nose weighted so they stand on their nose at rest on the bottom, maybe slightly angled towards the back. I find this design comes through weeds well and is good for "yo-yo'ing" off the bottom and tend to wiggle at lower speeds.

    I think you need more ballast, and I think you need to split it between at least two different locations. If you look at a Strike King Red Eye Shad, for instance, the main ballast locations are just behind the belly hook hanger and then in front of the belly hanger towards the nose, but low in the body. If you look very closely at the Spro Aruku Shad you can see a low nose ballast and then a long slender ballast in the belly that stretches from just behind the belly hanger back to just over halfway towards the tail. These are two lures that I have done well with.

    Even simpler, if you look at a Bill Lewis Rattletrap (thanks LaPala :yay: ), you can see that the chambers would position the weights towards the nose and just behind the belly hanger via gravity.

    Thanks so much, it looks liek the ballasts are as low on the body as possible, plus the air chambers will give it even more nose dive. In the rattle trap there is 4X more ballast weight than mine in the nose alone!

  3. So i just tested out my first cast lure (FAILED)

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    can't help you out with ballast but I did want to say that lure has looks great. what is cast out of

    Thanks, and its not even painted yet :P...... i aint gonna lie though, its actually a BPS XPS series crankbait, so i'll buy a couple of them friday and open one up!! The resin is just this clear casting resin i got at Hobby Lobby, comes is a tin. i added the yellow transparent color to it also. It poured well but be in mind that i am not using microbubbles either. Cheers!

  4. So i just tested out my first cast lure (FAILED)

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    It's a lipless crankbait, i tested to see whether it would swim correctly, but it wanted to swim sideways so much it would reach the surface on a slow retrieve. looking at the pics, would you say it was caused by my ballast position. Is it too high, too long, and not close enough to the nose of the lure? i really need some help

    pics: ballast is 1/32 oz too light?

    http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9486/dscn0583.jpg

    http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/545/dscn0587.jpg

  5. Which is the best type of paint for cast resin (super plastic) lures?

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Lets just say I want to get involved make hard plastic poppers. I make a mold from rtv of my favorite popper. How would one attach the hook points and line ties? Would I have to have a thru wire inside?

    It's better to have a thru wire because you need to keep the ballast centered and attached to something, but they supply line ties and hook points, figure 8 line ties, for use with unglued crankbait bodies, i'm sure you can get away with those for the line ties and rear hook, but the center needs to hold the ballast weight. I dunno with top water if the hooks are heavy enough to keep the lure upright, so you may not need a ballast, if you are casting with plastic. Let some more experienced makers give you an answer b/c i hardly know anything :P

  17. removing Etex form lexan lips

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    i don't know if you've tried this or are currently doing it, but masking the lip off is the easiest way to pevent this. i've never had any trouble peeling the tape off. i have also used a small needle to chip small blobs off with virtually no scratches from plastics, not sure if it will work on lexan

  19. Threadfin color

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    it is very difficult to determine what a shad actually looks like in 8-10 feet of water. all fish's colors change dependent upon availaible sunlight, it's most noteable in smallmouth bass. in fairly clear water, a shad at this depth would probably resemble their appearance in this picture:

    http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:XWRmTy0Oard_kM:images.enature.com/fishes/fishes_l/FI0273_1l.jpg

    i've hardly seen any patterns that would resemble this, so i couldn't tell you how effective it would be

  20. Lipless question

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    the rattle trap has a larger rattle chamber, and a flat head. the rapala has a cupped head, which allows it to be zipped through the water faster without rolling. actions are basically the same, but the rattle trap is louder, and rapala has greater retrieve speed capacity, IMO

  22. trebles

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    theoretically, the sharper the hook, the more likely it is to rip out of the fish's mouth. Eagle Claw and Gamakatsu trebles are perfect for crankbaits. the circular design of a excaliber actually allows it to rip easier

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