CrazyFish

Guys, I have to say that if you have a design that you don't want to write or can't write using a pen, the waterslide decal is a great alternative. You can literally use any logo or design you can create on your computer, size it to what you need, print it on the "clear" waterslide paper and it works great. Just remember that you need to put the decal over a light colored background or it won't be very visible.

Well, I can't vouch for the Thread Master because it hasn't been tested to my satisfaction yet. However, I can tell you that it will not go on any of my lipless cranks and, if I fished for muskie, it wouldn't go on those either.......unless it proved to be more than I expect. I think it will be fine for lipped cranks, but as I said before, it's designed to be flexible and that just does not translate into a rock hard shell.

I always use PVC pipe. I can get it in 10 foot lengths and cut it to my needs. I never, ever use cardboard tubing. I think some of these shipping companies intentionally break that stuff because it's difficult to handle.

I started using Thread Master a couple of weeks ago and I have been very happy with it so far. But, my thoughts are that it will be great for "billed" cranks, but not hard enough for lipless cranks at the nose and will wear quickly after bouncing off limbs and rocks. Remember, it is made to be flexible, not stiff as a rock, such as devcon. But, it self levels very well, is thick enough to go with one coat if you choose, will cure to the touch within a couple of hours if you put the lures under a couple of lamps for heat and will allow you to coat 10 to 15 lures with a single pour without getting to stiff to work with.........which is a big plus to me.

For a spinning rod, you can't beat it. The customers I have that order a Tennessee Handle fall in love with it. The most ordered rod is a 6'6", Medium Power, Ex-Fast Action or Fast Action. For the shakey head I would personally prefer the Ex-Fast Action. One more thing, I have gotten great reviews on the woven graphite handle over the cork.

Very Nice

I am currently using ThreadMaster as my clearcoat. It has enough pot life to allow me to easily coat 10 to 12 lures, is UV protected, thick enough to allow for one coat if needed and flexible. I just wonder if it will hold up to punishment. It generally cures to the touch in under 3 hours and is an easy one-to-one mixture. Diamondite is my preferred clearcoat, but it really is just to thin for the lures and requires at least 2, if not three coats to completely cover. Diamondite really cures quickly if you put a heat lamp over the lures. Two hours to the touch. I already know it does not work well for lipless cranks as the coating at the nose area shows damage after a beating all day. That is why I will continue to use Devcon for lipless cranks now, but the others for lipped cranks and see how well they stand up.

Well, I'll keep looking around for something. I am currently using the finish I use to clear coat my rods, but I am worried that the flexibility in the finish will mean that it won't be durable enough to hold up on a lure bouncing off limbs and rods and, of course, the hard strikes!

Guys, I'm an old rod builder and have been using a clear coat that gives me a long pot life so I can easily finish a rod before the clear coat starts to get to stiff to work with. I have tried this Devcon and find the pot life to be extremely short and, when working with 10 or more lures, just won't make it past 2 or 3 lures before I can't work with it. What do you use and, if you use Devcon, how do you extend the pot life? CrazyFish

Chris, I assume you are looking for a reel seat that doesn't show the threads when a reel is seated (i.e. no foregrip generally). Is this correct? If so, you won't likely find that offered anywhere. You'll have to correct the throat on the reel seat yourself to fit. It's not big deal to do actually. Just measure where you want to trim at the theads and make a level cut, sand to remove any rough edges and there you go.

Hey, Shoot me an e-mail at rick@crazyfishrods.com and I'll see what I can do. It would be my pleasure if I can help. Rick

Chris, This is one of the more tricky aspects of removing/replacing a component from a rod blank. The most effective method I have used to "remove" a reel seat is to use a dremel type handheld with the disc blade and cut the reel seat down the middle length wise. Be VERY careful not to cut through to the blank or your blank will be weakened, if not ruined. Do this on both sides of the reel seat. Then, use a flathead screwdriver to pry the two halves apart, very slowly and carefully until the reel seat separates from the blank. Now, even if done properly you still stand a chance to damage the blank if the reel seat was secured properly, but this is about the only method I know of to remove a reel seat. Once you have the reel seat removed, use fine grit sandpaper to remove any excess epoxy from the blank and clean with denatured alcohol. Good Luck!!!

I think BorderBasser is right on this one. I have made hundreds of rods, some of the spiral or acid wrapped. The most consistent manner to make this wrap is just as he described. It is a fool proof way to get it right every time. I've never had a complaint from an acid wrap using this method. CrazyFish Rods

I've often considered this as well, but how would you paint the reel seat threads so they could be protected from damage? Spray on clearcoat?

Also, remember and use this. After you have poured your clearcoat onto your flat surface to extend the pot life, gently blow your hot breath over teh surface and watch the bubbles disappear before you apply to the lure (Not like you are blowing out a candle, but like you are trying to fog a mirror). You can do this to the bait after application as well and it will make any surface bubbles disappear as well.

I agree with Mac on this topic. I have seen times where a particular soft plastic would make a big difference, but all-in-all, its more about how and where you fish it than what it looks like. Most of the time you'll develop a sense of confidence with one soft plastic over another and that's the one you'll find on the end of your rod when things are tough. A basic rule I follow is this: In rocky areas, I start with a craw worm. In grass (not matted) I'll use a creature type or curly tail for pitching to the center and a senko type for falling the edges. In flats with stumps, always use a senko type. In timber, I use a straight tail work and had some custom flip-tail worms made for me a couple of months back and I love!! On points, straight tail or curly tail texas rigged or a senko type for carolina rigs. In the spring........do not forget the lizard!!!!

You can get all the glass rattles you want at Barlowstackle.com

This has been a burr under my saddle for years. The color red, like any other color, needs a certain amount of light to actually be "red". Reducing the amount of light the color red receives makes it change color from brown and eventually to black. So, the factor that determines if red is actually red is the amount of light is receives. In clear water, red will stay red the deeper it is because more light passes through clear water. In murky water, it may stop being red after a couple of feet and turn brown or black. No color DISAPPEARS, it simply changes to a darker shade of that color to grey or black. That being said, I use red hooks all the time, but I can't tell you if they make a penny's worth of difference or not. I just don't see how they might hurt, so I use them and in shallow and/or clear water I know the color will show up, so it might be useful in creating one more strike.

BBC is right about fishsticks4u.com. I have been using them for years and have not a single complaint. Great guys and they offer good, quality product. CrazyFish

I have to agree with Sycko on the rainshadow blanks. They offer probably the best rod blank for the money. You won't be disappointed. CrazyFish

Snooter, You can go to fishsticks4u.com and find a replacement. I would suggest you call and ask for Robert. He'll make sure you get the guide you need. CrazyFish

You know...........I ended up liking the color when combining Pearl Lime and a couple of drops of black. Closer to what I am looking for right now. Thanks for all the help.............I'll be using those mixtures soon as well.

Thank you...........I'll give that a shot right now!!

Guys I have been looking and I have been mixing, but can't create an olive color that I like. What do you suggest to create an olive color witih createx paints? Thanks for you help.