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KAOS Tackle

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Posts posted by KAOS Tackle

  1. Hi all. I am heading for a military bass tourney on the Red River in Alexandria, La in May. I am from out west and have never fished out that way and any help... hints would be helpful. Forage, hazards, tested and true colors/patterns etc...

    Thanks in advance and we'll see you on the water!

  2. First off "Hooah!" and thanks brother, thanks to you and your family for the sacrifice. I know its not easy but just watch your 6, keep your head down and come home safe.

    As far as the plastics. You can buy some very inexpensive molds from Bobs, Janns, Del-mart etc to start off with. Get a couple and get the feel of it. I get almost all of my plastic supplies from Del at del-mart. plastics, colors, glitter etc. There are a ton of great plastic threads to teach you the ropes. I prefer the microwave method as I dont pour in mass quantities.

    As far as airbrushing. There are a lot of great brushes out there and it is endless at the things you can do. its all about imagination and most importantly, layers. I prefer a gravity fed airbrush and a compressor with a regulator. Experiment on old cranks, pvc pipe etc. Have your wife start saving old panty hose, loofas, netting etc.

    I have to warn you up front that it will quickly become an obsession.

    Again, thank you for taking the watch. You are a great American and a true Hero. Stay safe and we will see you on the water when you return brother.

  3. My pointer would be...RUN! far, far away!! :eek: Those are a great start. I say run because now youre life will be taken over by this. It by no means a hobby...it is an obsession. Welcome to the cult.

  4. Could be a number of things; temp of the etex, how you mixed it, what you mixed it with, how and what you put it on with etc... Hit it with a hair dryer for a minute when you put it on the wheel and it should solve your issues.

  5. I have among all the other clutter...half eaten bag of popcorn, 2-3 half full bottles of water, 3 sebile magic swimmers primed, a handful of LC's primed (half with first couple colors) several cranks ready to topcoat, a bunch of rough cut pvc blanks, couple of prototypes (frankensteins) that I revisit daily...oh and a big plano box of banged up lures my buddy brought me to "fix". :teef:

  6. Lili, all I use now is micro fibbets and I love them. Do a search on the computer, I cant remember where I bought my last batch from (on work computer) but they will come from a fly tying outfitter/supplier.

    As far at thinning and tail placement. A lot of them come with a pretty big base and I will dremel the overage until I am close to having it where I want it. If you clean up too much it will fall apart but a lighter will reset the ends. I generally will put it in my tail slot with D2T and then make sure all gaps are filled with it. Hope that helps.

  7. Stocking up on a small sheet of diff size eyes is a good way to start. If you like the eyes, keep them on. Some of my repaints I wont mess with the eyes, like Sebile Magic Swimmers. In cases like that I will use "Misket" and cover them. It is like frisket for airbrushing but is a liquid and can be applied with a brush. Apply it on the eye/area you want protected from paint and when you are done painting peel it off. Its a very easy and clean process. :twocents:

  8. When you beg your wife to buy you that sweet (expensive), vintage wooden fly fishing trout net for your birthday and when she gives it to you, you unwrap it, say thanks then whip out the scissors, cut off your new scale stencil and throw the rest in the garbage as you run to the shop to try it out on a lure. :whistle:

  9. I use only Createx also which are water based. One for safety purposes over laquers (although precautions still need to be taken) and the ease of use. You can use other water based craft paints but be mindful that there intended use is usually to be brushed on. Createx is made for the airbrush. That being said, depending on the createx paint you use will determine how much you want to dilute. I dilute pearls a lot heavier than regular colors and opaque a little more than transparent. Just experiment and youll get the hang of it.

    Polytranspar makes an excellent airbrush paint and its a taxidermy paint. Try Wasco online for those, they are a little pricier than createx but great paints. You can generally get Createx at any craft/hobby store. Good luck!

  10. I agree with everyone else, I would put my money on operator. Even a cheap airbrush will run smooth if you treat her right. Like was mentioned strip it down and give it a good cleaning, dilute your paint for a smoother flow in the gun, and always run a cleaner (i use windex) through the gun after each color. Keep an eye on the tip of the needle as it will "gunk" up. Careful when you clean it. When you are running cleaning solution through after each color, block the tip so the airflows back through the airbrush and out through the cup then run all cleaner out and let until only air is flowing.

    You should be painting close to worry free in no time if you do this.

    just my :twocents:

    Caution!!! When you do strip it down to clean, do it carefully and remember how to put it back together. Take apart over a clean cloth or paper towel. NEVER take apart over a sink...sometimes little parts like to jump/fall out and go down the drain quickly. Been there/done that :teef:

  11. There are numerous, good taixidermy sites on the web with what you need. Google "taxidermy fish blank". I actually looked into this myself and the only drawback/problem I found was that all the ones I looked at had a curve to their bodies and most were one sided detail only. Hard to find a straight one as for the taxidermy guys its not that realistic, they want a blank that exhibits movement.

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