Killerbug

It's dollars. Why someone purchase stuff from Hawaii, I don't know, but i guess he didn't find exactly was he was looking fore elsewhere.

True, i also noticed today that my new bismuth jigs have a higher tone, when hitting rocks. I don't know if this has an extra trigger effect over lead?. Actually prices here are high, I pay 57$ for tin, and 33$ for one pound of Bismuth.

But way too light for jigs. If you want to pour jigs weighting close to lead, you have to make your own alloy.

@Cadman Nice example you did in CAD, by the way. I work in Autocad and Revit myself, do you use Inventor?

Hi Cadman, and thanks for digging into this. I did polish my Erie mold yesterday with a dremel and some silver polish, and poured some Bi/Sn. They still stick, but with the right grip, they release. To be honest, I like pouring Bismuth more and more, even managed to powder paint a few.

Just poured my first batch of bismuth jigs. I used a 70/30 Bismuth/tin alloy, and had some severe sticking problems. While round heads remove quite easily, the Erie(black handle do it mold) sticks. But I managed the remove most of the Eries, by wrickling them loose by the hook shaft. But not all caveties are equally sticky, might try to polish them for smoother removal. Removing the sprue, was like playing the lottery. On some the sprue lierally fell off by itself, by other I had to use a cutter. @Cadman I find the pouring higher a percentage bismuth, makes the alloy pulverisize by hardening. So how do you manage to pour straight bismuth??

I use textile print colors, specially for plastisol. Like those used for plastisol print on textiles. I think screen printing dyes are waterbased. I guess the lurecraft colors, originally are of the same kind. Beware of the danger experimenting with this, never add water based colors to hot plastisol.

Are there any tricks to avoid the cooling expansion of Bi.

Just an idea, IMO The Soft Plastic Cookbook on this site, is more or less, a mix of already mixed colors, mostly resulting in shades of browns. Also you are f--cked, if you don't have acces to LC colors. Therefore I would suggest using the complementary colors, as the base for an alternative Soft Plastic Cookbook. This would also ease people, with larger productions in mind, becase they can buy, like 6 cans of plastisol textile print colors, instead of 50 already mixed LC ones. Just an example: Chartreuse; 4 parts yellow, one part green.

Thanks, but don't the Erie jig stick to the cavities?, and is there anything I can do to prevent that.

Thanks, for the valuable infos

For worms, I find an injection mold faster to work with. I found one on Basstackle, amazing how many nice mold they have. http://www.basstackle.com/Machined_Aluminum_Molds_s/1.htm

Hi, Just shot the sickest batch of ringworms using the PVC injection mold from Jannsnetcraft. But after 40 worms, this mold is already due, with nearly all the screw gone loose. Also it's very slow to work with. So, I was looking for something in aluminum with 4-6 cages.

This time only some baits have faded a bit, and some are still vivid. Obviously it helped to shake the bottle well before, adding the color. Maybe this bottle has been standing a long time on the shelve. I think i will also try to open it, and stir in the yellow the the color with a stick. I have some colors from another company than Lurecraft, though none in yellow, and they seems more stable.

Thanks for your help guys, I have made a bunch this morning, so now I hope these will be more color stable.