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longhorn

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Everything posted by longhorn

  1. I have several of the netcraft molds...unless they've changed they are injection molded from cheap plastic about like lure boxes...it crazes and cracks when contacted by hot plastic. I've successfully used plexiglass to make two part molds for hand injection...hand "machined" with dremel tool and coated with Elmer's glue they work great and have lasted for years. I've tried to post a photo with this reply without success.
  2. I cook it all clear and pour it out on a tray to harden (about 1/4" thick)then I cut it in squares and store in ziploc bags. When I get ready to melt I cut it in smaller chunks which decreases the re-melting time. I add the color, flake and salt as needed. If you leave both lamps on the plastic will eventually burn, if you have enough plastic in the pan (1/2 cup or so) you can turn off the top lamp and let the plastic sit there for a while with no problem.
  3. I checked and the bulbs are 250 watt infrared heat lamps...don't have the data on heating a cup of plastic...when I buy a jug of plastic I cook it all and store the solid plastic for re-melting later. Today I poured a 1/2 cup batch and it was ready to pour in 8 minutes. The bottom lamp is 3 3/4" from the bottom of pan and the top is 4 3/4". This setup is way better than a hot plate.
  4. Yes, bulbs on the bottom also with separate controls so you have less chance burning...I'll have to check on the size of bulb...believe this or not those bulbs are the original ones that came with the table when I bought it.
  5. Thought some of you youngsters would like to see what I used to pour all my plastic. It uses heat lamps in cannister light fixtures to cook the plastic and works really well. I bought the setup originally in Mineral Wells, TX in about 1975. The lamps were mounted on a 4x8 plywood table..I ended up with this configuration. It was from John Fox's worm "factory" when most worms were hand pours. It has served me well and I continue to pour often. I was prompted to post this because I read that mwave and burner are the two choices for heating plastic...the heat lamps are way better than a burner and much easier to control.
  6. It's not Elmer's wood glue which is yellowish....I use Elmer's Glue All which is white and less expensive. The wood glue may work...I've not tried it.
  7. longhorn

    sealant

    Elmer's Glue All, white multipurpose glue is what I use.
  8. Been doing a lot of drop shotting lately and using the drop shot sinkers with the swivel and line clip but have been getting all sorts of line twist. I now use a mojo type sinker cause had some...any slip sinker would work...and at the end of the line I tie on a small snap swivel...line twist is gone and you have the snap to slip onto your hook keeper or guide when stowing the rod.
  9. Use the Elmer's Glue All, not the school glue. The water/glue mix is about like milk, I haven't used measurements. I put some glue in a plastic coke bottle and add water until it looks right. I put my freshly-made POP molds in the oven at 350 for an hour or so to remove the moisture...otherwise it may take days for the mold to dry out naturally. One flood usually works, sometimes it takes two. If you flood the mold when it's warm the glue dries quickly...if you're really impatient a hair dryer speeds up the process. You can flood the mold over a pan and pour the excess back in the bottle...it will separate if you don't use it soon but the glue is so cheap it's probably not worth it unless you're going to use it again soon. Another thing I thought of is that if you have mold with a failed coating like paint...just remove the loose pieces if any and the glue will seal right over the paint. I've been thinking about putting a complete tutorial with pictures but don't really know what format to use...I'll check into it. Feel free to ask other questions. Nothing like catching fish on something you've made.
  10. Elmer's glue works better on POP molds and is easier to apply than anything else. I made my first POP mold 33 years ago...I know what I'm talking about. I first painted the molds with it but now I apply it by flooding the mold with the glue thinned with water...no painting and a thin coat that doesn't destroy detail and you sure can't beat the price. I got on this site to pass on things I've learned about making molds and pouring since there aren't many of us left. Elmer's glue is the only way to go.
  11. I went to a local air conditioning/sheet metal shop and they gave me enough scraps of 22ga stainless to make about 100 blades. Since then blades have become available from Netcraft and Barlows and at 19.95 a hundred not worth my time to make them....they are a little thicker than the original Chatterbait blade but they work fine for me...they also have the pre-cut prism tape for the blades.
  12. First I wash the lures in detergent to remove the oil, then cover whatever surface you're sticking your baits to with Scotch permanent double-sided tape (it's not really permanent in this situation). I've found this to be quick and easy.
  13. longhorn

    SALT

    I use regular old Morton's and pulverize it in the blender until it's a fine powder. Works great for me, suspends well and adds the light retention to the plastic that I'm looking for.
  14. longhorn

    sealant

    I recently found this site and registered for the purpose of sharing the mold-making and pouring experience I've gained over the years. I made my first POP mold in 1974 using Elmers Glue and have found nothing beats it for a sealant...some of my molds still have the original coat after over 20years. A quick way to apply it is mix in some water until it's fairly runny and flood the cavity or cavities, then drain the excess (you can actually re-use it). Sometimes a second coat is needed but it sure beats hand-painting all the cavities. I mix mine in a 20 oz. plastic drink bottle, flood the mold over a cake pan and pour the left over back in the bottle.
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