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Lacquer As A Topcoat
7 replies to this topic
Posted 19 April 2010 - 04:14 PM
This is a bit of a continuation of my other thread which got off topic:
are there any issues with using straight lacquer from a can as a topcoat on wood and plastic baits painted with waterbased paints?
i don't imagine there would be any compatibility problems, but does lacquer yellow and crack with time?
what kind of durability could be achieved by dipping baits in lacquer?
Posted 19 April 2010 - 05:16 PM
I would give it at least a try. There are many kinds of lacquer. You might have to shop around for one that is going to take a beating from fishing extremes. Most lacquers I have seen will yellow over time especially when exposed to the sun. I have been experimenting with this myself and have settled for an outdoor formula spar urethane . I feel like it is less likely the crack or chip than lacquer . I am no expert at this stuff its just what I have been messing around with. If you are concerned with your paints being compatible with lacquer just put a coat of clear acrylic over it as a buffer. Good luck.
Edited by VermontPhisher, 19 April 2010 - 05:23 PM.
Posted 19 April 2010 - 05:27 PM
I use lacquer for all my lures,I use it with waerbase paints and have no problems
Posted 20 April 2010 - 12:52 AM
I know , that Finnish lure builders are using clear concrete laquer(the stuff to seal off concrete floors) to dip their painted lures a couple of times(up to 8 times) , .......I could never get my hands on such stuff over here in Germany , but I have some Finnish lures made that way and I can assure you , that the finish is rock hard and quite thick .
From an Australian site I've also got the hint about using clear modelling dope(laquer to reinforce and stretch the paper tissue on RC model aircraft wing frames) .
I have tried this as well , .......that laquer is easy to obtain in any RC model shop , quite cheap and easy to work with , special thinner available(turpentine won't work) .
It's layers turn out thin , but cure very hard , ........at first it looks a bit wrinkled after brushing on , but stretches to a smooth surface later , .......dries very fast .
Sadly it does affect some types of paint , so if uncertain , one should apply an acrylic clear topcoat at first to protect paint patterns and felt pen signatures , etc ........!
But I would only use this modelling dope for lures used for rather non-toothy fish like trout , perch and bass , ........the topcoat would turn out too thin for big predators like pike and muskie .
good luck , diemai
Posted 20 April 2010 - 03:56 PM
hmm sounds interesting. i wonder were to get concrete lacquer around here in the US. its probably expensive...
Posted 20 April 2010 - 08:06 PM
I have a family member who works at a place that supplies a lot of things for commercial places. They offer a UV resistant 2 part epoxy floor coating that is crystal clear and has a great shine to it. Some local schools used it on their basketball courts. I am gonna see if he can hook me up with some. I will let you know how that works.
Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:24 PM
Any new top coat I find and want to try I coat a raw peace of wood. Let it cure for the recommended time then drop it in a mason jar fill it with water and let it sit. You might be surprised how much some lacquers turns white. Epoxy is pretty safe in my tests. If some one tests the concrete lacquer could you post the results. I would be interested if it lasts and if that works, cut a crack in the side of wood and see if the water leaking in separates the wood from the lacquer. I have lost a few good lures to that kind of leak.
Posted 21 April 2010 - 12:12 AM
There are one ,-and two component concrete laquers around , as my Finnsh friend has once told me ,....... he himself is using one component stuff .
He thins the laquer to a "pee" consistency(his own words ) and puts it into glass jugs , both for storing and dipping alike !
He dips six to eight times , always doing the next dip , when the previous one had already set , but not yet cured entirely , .......this way the single layers do bind very well !
These jugs have a kinda spring-loaded glass top lid , for storage he would put a cut-out sheet of a plastic bag inbetween the jug's upper rim and the lid to act as a sealer and to prevent jug and lid to bind with dried laquer .
But I guess , such jugs without a lockable top lid do work as well , when sealed properly for closure(check picture) .
Sorry , that I can't provide more info ,........ I haven't found a suitable one-component concrete laquer so far , they only sell colored ones in local tool marts , no clear .
Another problem is , that most likely only large containers are available , as most likely only large concrete planes require to be covered !
still good luck though , ........greetz , diemai