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out2llunge

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Everything posted by out2llunge

  1. You might want to read this thread too: http://www.stripersonline.com/ubb547/ultimatebb.php/topic/11/3751.html
  2. What clean up? I buy throw away brushes, use plastic shot glasses for meauring and old yoghurt cups to mix it all up in. Once done it all goes in the garbage.
  3. How about a piece of titanium wire or flat stock? I know a guy around my neck of the woods who has been using titanium flat stock to achieve the jointed bait motion. Because the stock is flat there is no rotation issue.
  4. Any info you'd care to share about the joints are assembled? Are there loops that are joined or is the wire on piece running through all the lure parts?
  5. VERY nice... and here's your criticsim...where's the really big one that I can use muskie fishing. Awesome looking bait! P.S. that othre link says ACCESS DENIED!
  6. My guess is that you don't really want to re-paint the baits. Also, I imagine that if there are age cracks, that the paint is lifting in these areas. If it were me, I would sand the old finish off, re-prime/re-seal, paint and than top coat with an epoxy. You could use some nail polish (which I think is just laquer), or you could use laquer, epoxy, urethane, etc., but I think you will not be happy with the results.
  7. How do I get me one of those jointed bomber style plugs like that yellow one on the right in this pic... http://home.comcast.net/~dstratrap/2004_0912_161222AA.jpg Awesome work!
  8. out2llunge

    The fruit

    Excellent work Brett! When I first started bait making I thought it was the greatest thrill to catch a fish on a bait I made, but now that's trangressed into "others" having the confidence to fish my baits and when you get results like Gord's...well that speaks volumes!
  9. While I agree with Skeeter about the rattles having a good sound. I'm not so sure they're loud enough for grannies. I've used similar (and other) rattles and found the size of a muskie bait tends to deaden the sound too much. Try them by all means they just might work, but another thing to try might be drilling a 5/16" hole (on an angle) and adding 1/4" steel ball bearings. To get a better "clack", epoxy in a washer at each end of the hole so the BB's have something (other than each other) to make noise against.
  10. Corey, I agree, sometimes it's better to not be part of the crowd. Sometimes when your bait looks like nothing else (firetiger) in the lake it appears more vulnerable (no safety without numbers).
  11. Mark, You've got mail! Check your PM's
  12. I agree with Dean. There are about 3 or 4 lures that if used in the spring for salmon on some water near me will (almost) ceratinly guarantee to put fish in the boat. The size (and colours) of these baits mimic very closely the size and hues of the available bait.
  13. Hey Mark, Where do you sell your baits in Canada? I'd love to try one of your cranks. Maybe when you head up here next spring we can head out. How did it go on Elephant last spring? Cheers, J.P.
  14. That's some awesome info at that link. There's a few of baits that I'd like to automate. It sure beats measuring each one each time. Now if I can only make the time to make the jig.
  15. You can, but if wait too long it will work like glue. Try working in a slightly colder environment. It will slow the cure rate down a bit. Humidty will also affect dry/cure times. The higher the humidity the slower the cure.
  16. I'm not sure you're disagreeing, but rather prooving my point. A sucker is a long slender fish as are the muskies. Both have similar body profiles and hence the muskie like eating the suckers. This was what I was trying to suggest in my original post. As for the perch bait, is it more round (ie. football shaped?) than slender? If so that could be why. Like I said before, there are always exceptions to every rule. Just for the record, I've caught muskies on long and skinny baits as well as short and fat baits. These are just general assumptions. If you look at rapala baits what kind to walleye prefer - longer and somewhat slimmer. How about bass, shorter, squatter and rounder? Again there will always be exceptions.
  17. It's been said that certain fish prefer (lure) profiles similar to the profile of the fish itself. For instance, bass, a relatively round, football shaped species prefer baits that are similar in profile and more slender species like trout prefer more slender baits. I know, what about plastic worms and bass for eg., there's always the exception. Muskies are the same way, they'll eat anything!
  18. It's not a new e-mail, I got it over a year ago too. Funny, I didn't get it this time. How loudly can you say SCAM...send him stuff and then look for it on EBAY...guaranteed.
  19. I attach the baits to the drying wheel first. And I use a dollar store brush (synthetic not real bristle) brush and "paint" it on. The natural bristle brushes will lose their hair and you can guess where that hair ends up.
  20. I have a 2 disc system that rotates around a rotisserie shaft. I've used cup hooks (screw eyes) on each disc. The lure gets mounted between opposing hooks with lure's screw eye on one hook and a spring (for tension) between the lures tail (or lip) screw eye and the eye on the disc. I find the extra epoxy helps seal the around the lure screw eyes and helps to keep water out!
  21. I use E.L. on my muskie baits and it holds up well. Eventually I think most coatings will fail especially with the abuse I put them through - banging rocks, zebra mussels, high speeds, sharp muskie teeth, etc. If you're using the product properly you shouldn't have any troubles.
  22. Rob, You've also got some very likely causes in the subsequent responses. Complete drying of each coat is essential in avoiding bubbles, blisters, etc. especially with non-satndard paints & colours (ie. metallics).
  23. Rob, Stick with paints from the same manufacturer. Crossing brands is asking for chemical reactions to occur. Sometimes metallic paints, standard paints and fluoroescents (same brand) will still react. Why are using spar? It will yellow over time for sure. Stick with the new lustre or etex. Are you using a rotating drying system? If you want to avoid the epoxys try using spray laquer instead of spar. It produces a very hard finish and doesn't yellow. Stinks like hell so do it in the garage. Cheers!
  24. I had something similar happen on a jointed bait that I made. Interestingly, it was only the tail section that de-lam'ed. This bait was wroked really hard. I was trolling it at over 5 mph and it was responsible for 3 muskies on its 1st, 2nd and 5th times in the water. It was about a year later and many more 5 mph trips thru the lake before the tail section showed signs of trouble. BTW, I've got many baits (homies and factory) that are missing paint, epoxy, eyes, etc. and they still produce very well. I'm not so sure I'd want to give up that bait that the guy wants replaced.
  25. Very few of my baits have anything smaller than 5/0 and even go up to 8/0 and 9/0. Gotta agree go big or stay home.
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