lure_learning

I'm hoping someone who has actually done this could chime in. My impression is you don't put anything between them you just reverse the bottom plate so it's out of the way. Here is a crude side view: | ..| |__| .....|__ .....|__| The block of wood is secured to a bench and the bottom plate secured to it. Again I've never done this but seems like it would work just fine.

I believe all you do is unscrew the bottom piece and flip it around so it's out of the way. Now it could be lifted by mounting it on something.

What's a nuke box?

Does anyone here use those molded eyes on their soft plastics? I'd like to try them out. any recommendations on a manufacturer to get them from? thanks

COBRA, How much did the stainless hood run ya? I need a better hood! Let me know where you got it and how much. thanx

I've been wanting to try it myself. How strong does it smell?

I have used Fine Flake Alberger Salt and it was far from translucent. I don't have too much experience with salts but the baits produced with it are definately less clear than a senko.

Do I need to use any mold release for Micro Mark RTV and Sculpey master? Also, does anyone know if rtv will stick to a lego form? thanks!

thanks Anyone else have a solution that works well?

Can someone inform me of a good mold release for UltraCal I could find locally. Maybe at Home Depot, Lowes or Walmart. I am going to give a go at a 2 piece mold this weekend. Also, has anyone tried to use the lego form with UltraCal? Any other advice is very welcome, especially preventing bubbles in my mixture. Thanks guys

I guess I didn't look at the pictures that well thanks Del. What is the RPM range of that press?

Nice job and thanks for sharing! My only concern on this setup is the heat traveling up the mixing blade into the drill press motor. I'm not sure what temperature the motor seals are rated for. Just something to look into and or keep in mind. The question I have for StaWarm is, do they sell replacement parts that don't rust! I have been meaning to contact them regarding this and will do so soon. Thanks again and good luck.

Nicely done! and that is one of your custom molds? welcome back to the plastics fun!

thanks Jim I don't think that is the problem though because I really shake the heck out of the 5 gal before separating into 1 gallon containers. I also shake the heck out of the 1 gals. before heating. How and when do you apply the salt? I will call Robert again on this issue and hopefully we could figure something out.

thanks BB Anyone else encountering this?

I am having problems with my baits turning dull and sticking together after a few days bagged up. These are mainly sticks but have also had the same issues with non-salted baits as well. Calhouns plastic always produced nice glossy baits for me and I never had an issue with baits sticking together. Has anyone had these issues? I have tried to bag them at different periods after pouring: waiting 4 hours, 8 hours, 24 hours, but all have the same result. They look great after they are poured but that doesn't last long. I have also tried to apply some worm oil before bagging and the only thing that seems to do is delay the problem by maybe a week or so. Either I recieved a bad 5 gal of plastic or softener or someone else must be incountering the same. Please help, I am at wits end thanks!

Thanks for the reply I will give them a shot

Is it safe to use glassware other than Pyrex? I have heard multiple times not to use anything but Pyrex. thanks!

thanks again! great info guys

How strong of a smell is the pro-cure alewive and crayfish? How about the trophy bass formula? Which type do you use to simply add to the bag verse cook into the bait or is it the same? sauce or oil? I am just hoping not to stink the basement too badly I have never been a firm believer in scents but willing to give them a whirl. thanks again btw, I poured some last night and they are sitting on a cookie sheet now. I think that was my issue. Thanks!

Just wondering how long you guys typically "cure" your plastics before packaging? What do you place them on while curing? thanks for your input

thanks guys I will try it out

I noticed last night that a bunch of my worms kind of stick together after being packaged for a few weeks. These were poured with MF soft plastic and various manufacturers colorants. After pouring, and cooling(about an hour) I place a bags worth in a container and add maybe 5 drops of MF grape scent oil and maybe 5 drops of Dels worm oil and mix them around. This makes them plenty lubed for packaging. After about a week they seem to absorb the oil and somewhat stick together and become more dull in appearance. Any thoughts? I have heard that baits can and will absorb some oil but I didn't realize the baits would stick together. thanks for your help!

Do you have an ETA on this paint? thanks!

I believe the tip size is 1/4" and to tell you the truth, I haven't used it enough to give you a solid answer on clogging.