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Ken-Spin

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Posts posted by Ken-Spin

  3. Alumilite Rc-3 Basecoat

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I have poured some Alumilite RC-3 test lures, tried foam but didn't find it best for my purpose.

    I poured, did very minor flash removal around wire through, washed in soap and water, waited a day or so before painting and base coated with white createx. Paint did not stick well.

    I have read in the forums that you can spray createx directly to RC-3

    Wash with soap and water. Run through dish washer. Soak in boiling soapy water

    Wipe with denatured alchol.

    sand

    wait 5 days before painting

    I am willing to do what it takes but these will be semi mass produced and need to be good. Clear coat will most likely be etex.

    I am a bit confused as to what I should do or what I didn't do.

    From you guys that have used a lot of RC-3, what is your Procedure?

  4. Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I did read some stuff on the net that was a chemistry experiment melting packaging pellets. One type would not melt, one type would not.

    I tried melting styrofoam in acetone and while it melts almost instantly it just formed a big white blob and sunk to the bottom of the jar. No amount of stirring would break the blob up.

    If you have some old, clear plastic crankbaits that aren't worth restoring they melt nicely in acetone. I broke a couple old baits up into small pieces and soaked them in a jar filled with clean acetone. It took a day or so with occasional stirring to get them into a solution, but once there the mix has never tried to separate.

    Ben

  6. Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Thanks again for the reply. In all that I have read it seemed so simple. I am trying to determine if the unlit lava lamp I have 3 of was correct and I had missed something.

    There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with your material choices. The CD case should definately have worked, as they are made of polystyrene. After 14 dips and no sign of a coating, you definately haven't overloaded the acetone. Other than condensation and overloading, I cannot think of anything. Sorry for your frustration, as you don't seem to have done anything wrong. If it is the condensation thing, you will have been very unlucky, buying from two different supliers.

    Dave

  7. Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Seems far fetched but will have to check on the moisture thing. I think I may give up on the foam. I just poured a few test RC-3's from the same mold and hoping I don't have as many of the same problems.

    Do you prime RC-3 lures or can I just wash in soap & water then hit with white Createx?

    Thanks for the reply. I did indeed read that thread.

    New Acetone, 2 different cans from different stores and different sizes, quart & gallon, but same brand. Also purchased within 30 days.

  8. Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply. I did indeed read that thread.

    New Acetone, 2 different cans from different stores and different sizes, quart & gallon, but same brand. Also purchased within 30 days.

    There was a similar discussion recently. The author did not report back, so we do not know what the conclusion was. Again, I suspect the acetone has diluted itself with moisture.

    Dave

  9. Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I have been trying to work with foam and have tried to read everything here about sealing the lures. A good cost efficient way seemed to be melting plastic in acetone and dipping the lures All posts on this subject seem to be 3 or 4 years old, so does anyone use this anymore. One post mentioned a new and better method. I also saw something on recycle codes but can't find it.

    I have 3 jars working.

    #1 acetone with a clear plastic knife broken up in it. It has been sitting for about 3 weeks on my desk. I shake it every day and it looks some what a lava lamp. I have a glob of soft plastic at sinks to the bottom.

    #2 I have a quart glass wide mouth jar with the red seal removed in the lid. It contains 1 oz of broken up white plastic knives (B) into 12 oz acetone. It has a little different consistency than jar #1 but has not melted into the acetone either. The consistency may be due to the white pigment. I was hoping to seal and color. This jar has been mixed for about 2 weeks.

    #3 This has the same jar set up as #2 with 12oz acetone with 1 clear cd case broken up into it. It has the same clear blob as #1. This jar has been setting for about 10 day.

    I dipped a foam lure into jar #3, 14 dips and all I can see is that I gave it a good acetone bath. I really didn't see any plastic coat at all.

    I have access to the above plastics and have read that all of the above work.

    What am I doing WRONG. If you have done this with success would you be so kind as to help me.

  12. Resin Or Foam For Top Water Striper Poppers

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I am going to make a number of RTV molds from lures I have personally made (all top water striper lures) and need help on the type of resin.

    They will be finished with etex after airbrushing and installing eyes. I hope to use a 1 piece mold with wire through construction but not sure if possible.

    I have read every thread that I can find on the subject and seem to be down to 3.

    Featherlite, Aluminite RC-3 with microbeads and 16 lb foam. I have heard pro's and con's on each. 16 lb foam seems to be the most cost effective.

    These are intended for resale.

    I need to draw from knowledge and experience here and thanks in advance.

  13. Gamakatsu 604 Jig Hook Cheaper Ent

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Of the two molds I had one hook to fit well enough in the largest cavity on the tip up mold.

    I looked at modifying the mold but it looks as if I would have quite a bit of led come up under the eye of the 32831 and was not sure of how much effort it would take to remove. Have you done this? Has anyone done this?

    thanks

    My apologies, I should have explained "significantly shorter eye leg". A 2/0 32831 interchanges in my 1/8 Shake-it which best stock fit is a 604 3/0. Have you tried fitting one size smaller 32831 than the recommended 604 size?

    Would you like to take your skills to the next level? Extending the hook eye slot upward away from the head to fit a longer leg hook isn't that difficult, tho if you're new to cutting with a Dremel a bit of practice on some scrap aluminum might be a good idea. I would use a 1/8" cutter bit, a bottom cutter would be versatile for most hook fit mods.

    I started with a Dremel, but now use a mini drill press for more precision control.

  14. Gamakatsu 604 Jig Hook Cheaper Ent

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    I just received mustad 32831BLN hooks to use instead of the Gamakatsu 604. I have the Do-it Tip-up TUJ-6-SLA and the Shake-it SRH-6G-SLA. The 32831BLN hooks DO NOT FIT as shown on Barlow's website. The distance between the eye and the bend is too long.

    If anyone out there has a cheaper substitute, please let me know

    Gamakatsu sizes their 90* hooks a gap size smaller, so looking at them, a 32831 2/0 is nearly identical in shape dimensions to a 3/0 604. The 604 is indeed heavier wire and has a significantly shorter eye leg. Sorry, no TipUp mold to check for fits.

  15. Gamakatsu 604 Jig Hook Cheaper Ent

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    is the 32831 the same size wire? The Mustad 32831BLN states medium and the 604 states heavy.

    thanks

    Larryem,

    I do not have this mold but I do have the original which this one was made from wih a few mods. I have researched this and the Mustad #32831 BLN long shank hook is a direct replacement. However it only comes in 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0.

    I'm sure all the thinner wire aberdeen hooks will fit as well like EC 570, Mustad 32746 and Mustad 32756.

  16. Diy Blister Packaging

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    What are the quantities you are looking to buy and what state do you live in? I may be able to help.

    Thanks for the reply and sorry for the delayed response.

    With the quantities that we are working with and the variety of sizes, we are packaging on an ongoing basis. I know only what I can find on the internet about the heat set glue used.

    Questions:

    If someone does the blister packaging, is the product shipped to them, packaged and shipped back to me.

  17. Diy Blister Packaging

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    If you are going to go the route of vaccum forming make sure u have enough holes around your platen to pull your corners down tight and you may wa.t to go with 0.015 to0.020 thickness that is about what a regular lure company uses. When I was making my own I was making my blisters 3/8 wider and 1/2 longer. But I found a company where I buy slide blisters alot cheaper than I can make them. I can get 450 for one hundred dollars and that os cheaper than I can get the plastic for and I make my own blister cards.

    Thanks, I am using purchased clam shells for the items that I can find a stock clam shell that fits, however I have some that the only clam shells I can find that the lure will go in just cost too much. 30 to 40 cents each. Would you tell me the company? Do you send them the lures and they package them?

    Thanks everyone for the information

  18. Diy Blister Packaging

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I an building a small vacuum former and thought of the possibility of making my own blister packaging. What I have read is that the glue sealing machines are quite expensive. Could I make the blister and glue it to my printed backing card, if so what type of glue would you use? Have any of you tried this?

  19. Etex Tacky After 70 Hours - Help

    in Hard Baits

    Posted

    I coated some stripper jigs with etex about 70 hours ago as I write this. This is my first time using etex so what did I miss. I mixed equal parts A&B using syringes. 6ml of each in a small plastic cup. Stirred with a metal nail. Applied with a disposable sponge brush and put on a drying wheel for about 7 hours. About 12 hours ago I put a 40 watt light bulb about 6' from them and check the temp at between 85 & 90 degrees. Checked just now and they are not dry.

    What did I do wrong and can I salvage the work.

    thanks in advance

  22. Discolored Hooks When Curing Powder Painted Jigs

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    Thanks Gentlemen, for the information. I checked the oven with an oven thermometer purchased for that reason, however it may just have been in a slightly different location.

    I agree. Check the temp of your oven. If you are in a pinch you could wrap the hooks in tinfoil to try to to keep them a little cooler. Just a thought. I haven't tried it.

  23. Discolored Hooks When Curing Powder Painted Jigs

    in Wire Baits

    Posted

    I just poured a group of 1 oz jigs with nickle salt water hooks. They were powder coated with white powder paint and cured at 400 degrees for between 15 -20 minutes per the powder paint instructions. The hooks have purple and brown heat discoloration.

    I did a second batch, backed the heat down some and watched them. As soon as I saw some discoloration start I removed them from the oven. This was at about 14 minutes at around 350 degrees. I am not sure these are fully cured and still have some slight discoloration.

    Now the questions:

    Have I ruined the hooks?

    Any suggestions as how not to discolor the hooks and still cure the jigs. These were going to a client but I need to fix this problem.

    Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice

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