Ken-Spin

Harbor freight makes a small blaster that looks somewhat like an airbrush. I looked at it last week and considered buying one.

what primer are you using, Kiltz, Kiltz 2, Krylon, fusion etc. Also are you washing in soap and water, boiling in soap and water, denatured alcohol, acetone etc. Do you let them set for a week or do you prime next day.

I have poured some Alumilite RC-3 test lures, tried foam but didn't find it best for my purpose. I poured, did very minor flash removal around wire through, washed in soap and water, waited a day or so before painting and base coated with white createx. Paint did not stick well. I have read in the forums that you can spray createx directly to RC-3 Wash with soap and water. Run through dish washer. Soak in boiling soapy water Wipe with denatured alchol. sand wait 5 days before painting I am willing to do what it takes but these will be semi mass produced and need to be good. Clear coat will most likely be etex. I am a bit confused as to what I should do or what I didn't do. From you guys that have used a lot of RC-3, what is your Procedure?

I did read some stuff on the net that was a chemistry experiment melting packaging pellets. One type would not melt, one type would not.

Are you talking about the styrofoam like in a cheap cooler??

Thanks again for the reply. In all that I have read it seemed so simple. I am trying to determine if the unlit lava lamp I have 3 of was correct and I had missed something.

Seems far fetched but will have to check on the moisture thing. I think I may give up on the foam. I just poured a few test RC-3's from the same mold and hoping I don't have as many of the same problems. Do you prime RC-3 lures or can I just wash in soap & water then hit with white Createx?

Thanks for the reply. I did indeed read that thread. New Acetone, 2 different cans from different stores and different sizes, quart & gallon, but same brand. Also purchased within 30 days.

I have been trying to work with foam and have tried to read everything here about sealing the lures. A good cost efficient way seemed to be melting plastic in acetone and dipping the lures All posts on this subject seem to be 3 or 4 years old, so does anyone use this anymore. One post mentioned a new and better method. I also saw something on recycle codes but can't find it. I have 3 jars working. #1 acetone with a clear plastic knife broken up in it. It has been sitting for about 3 weeks on my desk. I shake it every day and it looks some what a lava lamp. I have a glob of soft plastic at sinks to the bottom. #2 I have a quart glass wide mouth jar with the red seal removed in the lid. It contains 1 oz of broken up white plastic knives ( into 12 oz acetone. It has a little different consistency than jar #1 but has not melted into the acetone either. The consistency may be due to the white pigment. I was hoping to seal and color. This jar has been mixed for about 2 weeks. #3 This has the same jar set up as #2 with 12oz acetone with 1 clear cd case broken up into it. It has the same clear blob as #1. This jar has been setting for about 10 day. I dipped a foam lure into jar #3, 14 dips and all I can see is that I gave it a good acetone bath. I really didn't see any plastic coat at all. I have access to the above plastics and have read that all of the above work. What am I doing WRONG. If you have done this with success would you be so kind as to help me.

Thank you

I am going to make a number of RTV molds from lures I have personally made (all top water striper lures) and need help on the type of resin. They will be finished with etex after airbrushing and installing eyes. I hope to use a 1 piece mold with wire through construction but not sure if possible. I have read every thread that I can find on the subject and seem to be down to 3. Featherlite, Aluminite RC-3 with microbeads and 16 lb foam. I have heard pro's and con's on each. 16 lb foam seems to be the most cost effective. These are intended for resale. I need to draw from knowledge and experience here and thanks in advance.

Of the two molds I had one hook to fit well enough in the largest cavity on the tip up mold. I looked at modifying the mold but it looks as if I would have quite a bit of led come up under the eye of the 32831 and was not sure of how much effort it would take to remove. Have you done this? Has anyone done this? thanks

I just received mustad 32831BLN hooks to use instead of the Gamakatsu 604. I have the Do-it Tip-up TUJ-6-SLA and the Shake-it SRH-6G-SLA. The 32831BLN hooks DO NOT FIT as shown on Barlow's website. The distance between the eye and the bend is too long. If anyone out there has a cheaper substitute, please let me know

is the 32831 the same size wire? The Mustad 32831BLN states medium and the 604 states heavy. thanks

Thanks for the reply and sorry for the delayed response. With the quantities that we are working with and the variety of sizes, we are packaging on an ongoing basis. I know only what I can find on the internet about the heat set glue used. Questions: If someone does the blister packaging, is the product shipped to them, packaged and shipped back to me.

Thanks, I am using purchased clam shells for the items that I can find a stock clam shell that fits, however I have some that the only clam shells I can find that the lure will go in just cost too much. 30 to 40 cents each. Would you tell me the company? Do you send them the lures and they package them? Thanks everyone for the information

I an building a small vacuum former and thought of the possibility of making my own blister packaging. What I have read is that the glue sealing machines are quite expensive. Could I make the blister and glue it to my printed backing card, if so what type of glue would you use? Have any of you tried this?

I coated some stripper jigs with etex about 70 hours ago as I write this. This is my first time using etex so what did I miss. I mixed equal parts A&B using syringes. 6ml of each in a small plastic cup. Stirred with a metal nail. Applied with a disposable sponge brush and put on a drying wheel for about 7 hours. About 12 hours ago I put a 40 watt light bulb about 6' from them and check the temp at between 85 & 90 degrees. Checked just now and they are not dry. What did I do wrong and can I salvage the work. thanks in advance

Yes, I did cure the jigs. Thanks

I powdered coated some jigs that I plan to tie bucktails. I painted the mouth and eyes with lacquer lure paint. Am I good to go? I really hope so, or do I need to clearcoat or something else.

Thanks Gentlemen, for the information. I checked the oven with an oven thermometer purchased for that reason, however it may just have been in a slightly different location.

I just poured a group of 1 oz jigs with nickle salt water hooks. They were powder coated with white powder paint and cured at 400 degrees for between 15 -20 minutes per the powder paint instructions. The hooks have purple and brown heat discoloration. I did a second batch, backed the heat down some and watched them. As soon as I saw some discoloration start I removed them from the oven. This was at about 14 minutes at around 350 degrees. I am not sure these are fully cured and still have some slight discoloration. Now the questions: Have I ruined the hooks? Any suggestions as how not to discolor the hooks and still cure the jigs. These were going to a client but I need to fix this problem. Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice