Paul Adams

polyurethane resins do not like any kind of moisture and froff up if it is present and create bubbles. Generally I do not use anything that could hold moisture to mix or measure like paper cups or wooden mixing sticks. Cold silicone moulds can also hold condensation so if i am pouring i stick the mould on the radiator for a bit. Pouring on humid days or not closing the lid on bottle can shorten their life and create very bubbly pours. If i want really bubble free pours i pressure cast in adapted pressure paint pot at about 45psi. If the casting has a lot of bubble in it, it will dramatically reduce the strength.

http://homeluremaking.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/test-tank-tuesday-vodkamans-opus.html this the Vodkaman test tank post

That dying trout is awesome I have to feature that video, the action is amazing coupled with the dead rise, very inspiring

I am not sure my blog is the write place to post them, but they were great to watch, thanks

I had forgotton about your amazing test tank and the videos i saw good while ago, so i am going to have to have to do feature on them for next Test Tank Tuesday if that is ok, just need ,some details like where in the world you are and why the amazing tank? Also I watched your video about your reaction to watching two girls and a cup and curiosity got the better of me so I looked up the original video, and nearly returned my dinner to the toilet before it had barely touched my stomach, slo thanks for that. Yes if you make back here i generally go fishing early so set your alarm.

Thanks the accent is a bit mongrel as I have lived in different parts of the country, but don't forget when you have something on camera give me a shout.

thanks, i also learn a lot from here as well and other lure makers without the internet i suspect i would not be do what i am doing

I run a feature on my blog called Tank Test Tuesday example http://homeluremaking.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/test-tank-tuesday-rats.html which is place to share others people work from around the world and see what they are working on. It would great to get some submissions from here, so if you have a video with some information about yourself and the lure your working on please post it here and I will come back you or email paulpadam@aol.com thanks

I use scotch tape because it is thin enough to wrap the edges of thicker bills and epoxy does not stick to it.

Thanks, i am really enjoying learning to improve the quality of the videos, but it is great to hear that you have got some inspiration from them.

I finally did a video with some routing, in this vid i clamp the wood down and move the router, i don't always use this method, sometimes on larger lures i clamp on end down and route the other end then swap, but i find this easy for one offs

I think you are probabaly right Mark, making lures with a router felt like work to me, were as sitting down with a bit of wood, knife and sandpaper just feels good. But i still think routers offer a few interesting possibiltites that i might get round to exploring one of these days.

Thanks aydensdad82 it has been i a while since i have made wooden lures, hopefully i will be doing some more soon.

This is one on my fathers magnets, he collects them from old speakers and drills out the soft centre part and taps out for little bolts. He uses them on machines and girders to hold things in place, this a waste pipe clip on a shop vacuum hose. The magnets are very powerful but not powerful enough to stick to wood. When i couldn't find a tap i have drilled out larger sized holes filled them with five minute epoxy and then with vaslene on bolt pushed it in until the resin sets and then unscrew.

Cheers bass 100, but really I am just trying to avoid going down to the workshop and making a step, for a boat that i should be fitting tomorrow

I have used router to cut out and shape 4" and 5" pine wobblers with mostly flat sides. I made a template out of pvc for a router bush guide and fixed it to base with a space underneath to slide and clamp a strip of 2" x 1". This meant the work piece was clamped and the router had a flat surface to ride on, so no hand hazards. To get the round over i left the lure attached to the 2 x 1 buy the tail and then clamped it down to a bench with a couple of other pieces of 2 x 1 so the router wouldn't tilt and used a bearing guided round over bit rounded the edges. The reason for this long winded approach was because i came very close to losing a bit finger trying to round over small lures on a router table, lets just say i added a few new words to the english langauge that afternoon. What suprises me people have have used the this methods for years and never had any problems, so it is just me. I found this set up worked well for producing large amounts of baits in short time, but then i discovered i am not really into making large amounts of baits as i tend to give them away. I was planning to make a video about this process. The larger lure was made using the router template a couple of years ago

I take it this is a silicone mold, if not the next bit will make no sense. when i make my own paddletail molds from rtv i add a disc at the back of the tail about a .080" thick so i can easily pour the tails section having somewhere to pause while filling the deep tail so i do not have a narrow area to work in, this can be cut off cleanly when the lure is cooled. I wondered if i could cut one of these discs in a mold after it had been poured, so i have just tried it with a craft knife in an old mold and it works well. the video show the disc being cast in Like you i do some injecting but i find open moulds are great for experimenting or pouring something quick to go fishing

Thanks for all the info

Thanks Relentless, summer cannot come fast enough

I used an alternative method for making stencils when i was messing round with making plastic baits. Polymporph is a plastic that can been formed after dipping it in water just below boiling point. I took a small mount and ran it through a hand operated pasta rolling machine(it is non toxic so you put the pasat machine back in the kitchen when you have finished). dropping back in hot water between rolls until i had it at the finest setting about the thickness of lansgana. After dipping it in hot water again i drapped it over half the lure an kind of wrapped it a little around the back and let it cool, as it cools it shrinks a little gripping the details on the lure Once cooled it turns white and i cut out my pattern with a very sharp sclapal. The drawback with this material is when it is hot it wants to stick to itself and it is a bit like working with chewing gum. Once hard through it is very similar to nylon, or hdpe like plastic milk bottles

i am in the middle of one trying to find an ending but going round in circles, but hope to have something finished by the end of the week

thanks Mr bear and Mr Gon2long, that has really helped

thanks for replying , sorry i mean the hole in the injector tip

Can anyone tell me the normall bore size of the nozzle on a manual soft plastic injector? thanks in advance

it sounds like the release agent has interfered with the curing of the silicone, but it could also be the something in the protoype (chemicals released by the curing process) or on the protoype. Platnium cure silicones (addtion cure)can react with a huge range of normal lure making adhesives and chemicals, like super glue to name one or anything with sulpur in. I normaly use tin cure (condesation cure) silicone as it is cheaper and less reactive i cannot say it is as good, but good enough for want i use for. I would just e-mail smooth-on or phone them and ask them or alumlite, believe me the techincal guys at these companies love to talk endlessly about this kind of stuff. If you think it is the release agent, measure out the smallest amount of silicone you can, mix it up and put some releae agent on the boottom of a small tub and pour in half the silicone and wait for it to cure, then compare it with the other half left in the mixing pot.