ReelAppealLures

Hey all, I am new to the board so go easy. I have a question for those that foil lures, Has anyone tried using Jones Tones foil? http://www.jonestone...1f9aaae05723570 I don't want to use their glue as I want to apply a very thin layer of adhesive, I was thinking I might try using a spray adhesive. I am unsure if this will effect the application of the foil paper? Has any one experimented with this foil paper? I will try it out and see what happens and update this post with any results I find. RAL

I do not take any special steps to prep the foil, I make sure it is clean and wipe with a tack cloth. I don't paint directly onto the foiled surface, I lay down 1-2 coats of epoxy before paint. This way the seam/join in the foil is not seen under the paint, as we all know the slightest imperfection is amplified when it comes to paint. The foil really makes the paint "pop" a lot better than my photo's would show.

Hi Nuno, Here is a quick run down on what I am currently using to foil baits, it is by no means the only way or the best but merely what I have settled on so far... I want to try embossing/leafing but have yet to make the effort or buy the materials. I use a Aluminium tape, generally found in hardware stores for plumbing repairs or for ducting sealing. Some electronics stores may stock it for RF shielding. It has a good adhesive and sticks well. The best tape is the thinnest you can find, it varies between brands. The thinner the foil the easier to work and smooth out any wrinkles, convex curves are a challenge but you will learn your own limits and the tape's with some practice. Relief cuts may be needed or they can be designed to fit your lure's overall look. Once again the thinner the tape the easier it is to cover seams/joins with epoxy or the finish you are using. Hence the reason I want to try leafing as it so thin. Trace the outline of your lure, make sure it is a little bit oversize to go around the curves. Cut out the shape and apply the tape to the lure, use your thumb to work the tape down the center/lateral line of the lure, the slowly stick down the rest a little at a time. I use a hard plastic rod that is very smooth to work the tape further. When finished a cast iron rod can be rubbed over the Aluminium tape to get it to really shine. It takes practice, after a few baits you will be confident and producing a better finished product. Here is a 100mm hand carved wooden minnow using the above technique ( I produced the scale effect using the knurling on my exacto knife ) Here is a flat foil finish on a diving minnow... 170g & 265mm long. Another flat finish on a WTD minnow... 90g and 200mm long. ( I added the lateral line in the foil )

Dan, I shoot regular Createx ( not reduced ) at 35-50psi with a double action brush... The small imperfection or dots you are seeing are from the needle tip, it happens on double action brushes also, when the user doesn't keep the air on after stopping the paint. Spray the initial burst of paint away from your bait. As for brands or price range of brushes, I use dirt cheap air brushes for a few reasons. 1. I never clean them properly 2. I don't look after them properly 3. I can replace it 2 - 3 times a year and get the new brush feeling. A lot of airbrushing is down to the user, detail comes with practice and time... Not by buying the most expensive brush on the market. Here's some baits painted with a $20 brush and non reduced Createx. Keep at it.