Rob Olling Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 Are they worth the extra $8 or so? Do they produce any better quality jig head? The only differance listed is the sprue hole, and says must use bottem pour pot?(would it really make a differance?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigmaster Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 I have a Pro Series 101 mold, for 1/32 ball heads.no collar. I think the "Pro-Series" thing is geared towards high volume molding. There is no difference in the quality of the casting that is produced. It is for high-volume pouring. 7 cavities of the same size head. I have two Lee pots that I run......I have poured literally thousands of heads in the above-mentioned mold from a bottom-spout.......makes no difference. The smaller heads sometimes will pour better with a ladle than a bottom spout, but that is something that I have mastered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WidowMaker Posted January 20, 2004 Report Share Posted January 20, 2004 I have three of the DO-IT PRO102 SERIES MOLDS which is a ball head with a barb collar. I have sizes 1/32, 1/16 and 1/8oz. I also have one of the DO-IT PRO104 MOLD in the 1/8 oz. size. These are very good molds. I use a LEE PRODUCTION POT IV to pour my lead with and do not have a problem. Once you pour with a production mold vs. a combination mold you will wish all your molds were production molds. With a production mold you can get to work and kick the product out real fast. Do yourself a favor and invest the extra eight bucks as you will not regret it. The secret to using these molds with a bottom pour furnace is to aways keep the pot 2/3 of the way full. That way the weight of the molten lead is putting force on the flow of the lead being discharged from the production pot. The more weight incorporated into the discharge the smoother the lead will flow. When you start to pour be sure to allow the "spout" on the bottom of the production pot to set down into the gate of the mold so that you are "injecting" the lead into the mold. This will greatly reduce the lead being exposed to the air temperature. Air temperature can and will cut back on the viscosity of the molten lead resulting in short pours. One good trick is to lift the lever and allow a little bit of lead to flow from the pot before filling the first cavity of your pour. Start the flow, count to two and when you reach two immediately place the mold under the pot in order to fill the first cavity. Another way is to pour the first cavity without a hook.Then proceed to the the second cavity, then the third and so forth. I hold the mold in my left hand so i start the pour with the cavity closest to the handle and pour the cavity closest to the hinges last. Oil your hinge often and if you get lead in it then pull it out with needle nose pliers. Never pull or force open a mold with lead in the hinge as it will wreck the mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
