Dick Nite's Clear
54 replies to this topic
Posted 11 April 2008 - 05:01 AM
Even with Auto air pearl white you do not get this problem ?
Posted 11 April 2008 - 09:14 PM
Every once and awhile I might but I'm guessng here that since it's pearl white your using it for overall on the body of the bait and it seems when I did have this problem it was from putting excess paint on the lure(like Bob P said) try lighter coats and heat set them all....I know its kinda a pain heat setting every coat but the wrinkles tend to ruin a good paint job:teef:
Hope this helps
Posted 11 April 2008 - 10:59 PM
Some paints work better with DN than others. I haven't had problems with any Createx or Translatex color, nor any of the cheapo hobby acrylics like Apple Barrel. But I had a problem today with DN over Wasco Wildlife Stone Gray. 3 identical baits painted with Createx came out just fine. The DN took abnormally long to harden on the Wasco bait but eventually seemed OK after 24 hrs. I decided to refinish the baits today after making some performance mods and lightly sanded them before repainting. When I wiped the baits with some denatured alcohol to remove sanding dust, the Wasco bait became very tacky while the Createx baits stayed hard and smooth. So I'm now leery about using Wasco Wildlife Colors under DN. I vaguely remember a few other TU'ers having wrinkling problems with Wasco and DN.
Posted 13 April 2008 - 01:05 AM
I've had some similar problems Bob but it's been from can to can of D/N, one can has performed flawlessly with the paint I use,then maybe the next can might have a tendency to eat into the paint somewhat. Don't get me wrong I love D/N and don't use anything else however I've wondered if sometimes the can I have maybe a little fresher or have a higher solvent content than the last can? But overall for me it performs the best even with the few small problems I've run into
Posted 23 May 2008 - 12:43 AM
Bringing up an old thread here, but I had to add that I just started spraying it. I though it looked good before but the finish I'm getting now blows the brushed finish away.
The problem I was having brushing it is that just about every one I've done so far I miss little spots with the second coat. Was having trouble getting it brushed on really evenly, too.
No pics of anything I've done yet, unfortunately, I didn't really paint anything worthwhile, just a few more jann's crankbaits. Just painted bodies I wouldn't sell or use to see how the sprayed topcoat would be.
For the other guys spraying it........how many coats do you use, and how long apart? I'd assume you need more than the 2 or 3 most guys use dipping or brushing.
Now I just have to finally get my booth set up right so I can start spraying it inside.
Posted 23 May 2008 - 05:51 AM
You hit the nail on the head Bob, concerning the compatibility of Dicknite's topcoat with the above paintsIf you're gooing to use Wasco and DN together then a "buffer" clearcoat of some kind that is compatible with both DN and Wasco must be used on top of the Wasco to avoid problems. Of course the simplest thing to do is simply not use Wasco with Dicknites.
I've sprayed Dicknite's but still prefer brushing it for my small lure quantities. An advantage for me is not having to mask the diving lips for my final coats as I would have to do when spraying. A few tricks taught me by Experience have reallly smoothed out my brushing procedure. #1, is using Bloxygen Leftover Finish Preserver, which keeps my DN fresh as a daisy. Not only does it simply save your finish, but by keeping it fresh, it does not thicken, making it much easier to brush,
And #2, is the application brush itself. After experimenting with several natural bristle brushes, I tried a 1/4 inch #105 Torrington, which is a soft ox-hair brush, and is bigger than some 1/2 inch brushes I've used--anyway, with a few slow smooth strokes, it covers a bait evenly, bubble-free, and very quickly. After the first coat, simply check for complete coverage beneath a light while slowly turning the bait. I clean my brush in rubbing alcohol. The brush just fits through the top of my 1/2 ounce Testor's mixing jars, BTW.
Posted 23 May 2008 - 08:10 AM
A side note WASCO doesn't make Wildlife colors (Smith paint), WASCO's brand is polytranspar. I find it odd that the DN clear coat is having compatability problems with Wildlife colors. This is by far the best water based paint that I have used. That just means now I have no choice but to stick with D2T.
Posted 23 May 2008 - 08:24 AM
I don't use DN, but wouldn't spraying a coat of Createx clear over the paint job before you use the DN protect the paint, since, from what I've read, Createx has no problems when you coat it with DN?
Sorry for the run-on sentence. Too much coffee.
Posted 23 May 2008 - 08:41 AM
Dont mean to get of subject but someone brought up purchasing DN through the tu site (or a link of some sort)
I am having a issue locating that....any help
Posted 23 May 2008 - 08:44 AM
When you go to hardbait section there should be an advertising banner at the top of the page,click there and it will take you to it.
Posted 23 May 2008 - 10:08 AM
I've been using Wasco (Polytranspar) lacquer based for about a year now a love them. At first I had wrinkling and cracking problems when dipping in DN. Not on all the lures but it happened here and there with certain colors. I finally broke down and started spraying the DN and couldn't be happier. I use a single action airbrush for the DN as it is easier to clean. First things first when using lacquer base under DN.
1. Be sure and let the paint dry for at least 24 hours before topcoating.
2. Thin the DN with a HIGH QUALITY VIRGIN LACQUER THINNER only. Cheaper thinner will only result in more problems.
3. Experiment with the thinner to get the right consistancy you want. ( I try to keep it as thick as possible)
4. Spray a thin coat and wait a minute or 2 then spray again and repeat as you feel necessary.( I use 3 to 5 coats maybe more depending on the thickness of the DN) This works really well when coating multiple lures as you can just rotate through them without a waiting period.
5. Let the lures cure (7 days) and add your hardware.
I have found that when usung lacquer based paints, dipping will melt the paint underneath and run some of them. I use this to my advantage when spraying as the "melting" actually bonds the DN to the paint eliminating "peeling" problems in the finish. Just don't spray it too thick, stick with thin coats with intervals. I do know that I have had some issues with Krylon primer and tackiness with DN. I stopped using the krylon and most of my problems ceased.
P.S. this is the way I do it and by no means final strict instructions for anyone. It has worked very well for me and maybe can help someone with their issues with DN. I love the stuff and the new UV is awesome!! Maybe somebody can use this info. later..............
Posted 23 May 2008 - 12:42 PM
Mark, from what I've read from Dean it sounds like that would work. I've been using D2T for so long now I don't want to learn the in's and out's of another top coat. I must say the DN sure makes a lure shine.
Posted 24 May 2008 - 03:14 AM
At the recent TU meet in Clinton we went to Dave Aery’s little jig/spin casting factory (Hook Solutions) – here I spotted, amongst heaps of other nifty gear, a 3M product which was a collapsible plastic paint pot liner, which fits into a solid plastic bucket. I think these are normally used for premixed paint, you then place the liner in the plastic bucket (to give rigidity) and hook up to a spray gun. The thing that interested me was the liners collapse as the paint is used (excluding air), when finished, disconnect the liner, cap it and attach another color.
I am still thinking along the lines of the (“Collapso”) collapsible wine cask, which was discussed in a past mammoth thread on DN Clear –
In regard to DN, which we have to exclude all air contact, I’m thinking this may be a solution, in that DN could be decanted into one of these liners, collapsed until all the air is excluded, and it should last indefinably. These liners are intended to be used with auto paints (so thinners should not affect them), and with the neck (gun connector) at the bottom, so a valve could be fitted and as decanted, the liner collapses and no air can enter. They come in three sizes - 6oz, 1 pint and 1.5 pint.
I done some searching and came up with these, they are called 3M “PPS” (Paint Preparation System). See here: Pete
3M PPS - Paint Preparation System US auto autos car cars automobile automobiles automotive truck trucks suv suvs vehicle vehicles paint paints painting prep preparation sys systems spray sprays sprayer sprayers spraying gun guns mess messes reduce re
Posted 24 May 2008 - 07:37 PM
Great idea!!!!! Rockler sent me an email about this system months ago and the thought never crossed my mind. Thats me, in the bottom corner of my box afraid to even look outside much less go think outside.. LOL EXCELLENT IDEA HAZ!!!! here's another link.....
Rockler.com - Search Results for '3m'