Vodkaman

Interesting thoughts and ideas. But, while frowning at the moon crater texture of my lure, I noticed that my mixing lid was totally clear of bubbles. I think that, although CO2 is a product of the chemical reaction, this is dissipated long before the cure. I believe that the heat of the process is causing the air within the wood to expand and force its way out. Try heating the lures in an oven prior to application. It should reduce the volume of bubbles and the heat should allow them to break out easier. I would try it out for you, but my shoe box of an apartment does not have an oven. I would at least do a test before putting a fully painted picasso though this process.

Cheesehead. I acknowledge your tutorial on the glass rattle, Excellent job. I am also aware that some use spent 022 cartridges. I suspect that 'rattle cans' are potentially a very important method for catching fish and apart from an excelent article by Mr Sissons that I read a few weeks ago, I feel that the subject has not been given the air that it deserves. I also suspect that their are a few more construction methods going on out there that other members might like to share. Experience with cans, theories, new ideas, facts. I am hoping that this small contribution might get some knowledge sharing going on.

I

If it is a shallow swimming bait, I assume that it is a steep lip angle. The steep angle will give you side to side oscillation or 'waggle'. You could move the eye further back but I doubt that it will solve the problem. I suspect that the lip is too short. Try temporarily gluing a larger lip over the existing one to see the effect, while your at it, try diferent shapes. If it is a square lip, try rounding the leading edge. It would be easier for people to help you if we had a picture of the lure, or, if you don't want to give the game away, a more detailed description of the current lip and eye geometry. Good luck with it and report back your solution, I am very interested.

You could make a simple pulley system yourself, doesn't need to be particularly accurate, at 15rpm it won't need to be balanced. I agree with Bezyb, no time for distribution.

The monthly shed

Me working, after wrestling with another TU thread. http://aolpictures.aol.co.uk/galleries/folicallychalled/1de0uAWn7u0u-R-x0SDQCJxquuo6kqsEvUEBv4xQp5Fd3Ig=/large/

You obviously are a young wipper snapper. I used to tie flies myself many moons ago. In fact, before they landed on the moon. Now I struggle to type this message, my eyes are that bad. My question, Does recording a unique idea on a web site such as TU count for anything? I doubt it. You should tell us specifically what we should do. Their are obviously many people interested. C'mon, spill it!

This thread has been a real education, Thank's to you all.

I've been designing router tables and router jigs during the last year. For anything smaller than a dinner plate they are NASTY.

I think it's mine. I lost it last spring, his name is Erik. Can you please return him.

The package was in Swedish and I dumped it, so maybe Swede can tell us next time he visits the Clas Ohlson store. Best I can do is to describe it. Diameter 1mm. Breaks down into three chords, each chord breaks dow further into about a thousand fibres, too thin to register on my digital vernier. Obviously man made. It unravels too easily, but this is solved by touching the frechly cut end with a flame. I can only hazard a guess at the breaking strain, at least 200Kg. It is extremely strong, very pliable and cheap. Because of its structure, it lends itself to fatigue applications, on the down side, glue tends to flow by capillary action along its length, even thick epoxy will travel 2 - 3mm, so it is important to keep the epoxy away from the joint, which is what led me to the sleeve idea. It holds it well,seals the wood and prevents moisture ingress at the same time. It could be terylene.

I sincerely appologise for my gross over reaction. It is due to the rough ride I got from a few members when I joined TU. When this contract is finished and I can get back to my workshop, amongst the list of things to do, is to build a simple test rig to put this steel/nylon thing to bed. To test how many cycles it will take in our application. But I'll have to start writing down the list on paper, it's well out of hand. As for your joining method, pity you don't want to share it, but I respect that. Yes, my original statement about sharing was a bold one. Not sure I could really live upto it if I came up with something really big.

Doomdart. Yes, it is possible to use sevenstrand, however I found it to be more restrictive in movement than a plastic chord type material. Also, I have read threads in the past, discussing the merits of stranded wire for hinges and it was generally agreed that fatigue was a problem. Four hours fishing will apply approximately 200,000 bending operations on the joint, ok, the bend angle is small, but I wouldn't put my life on it after twenty trips to the pond. As for chemical rection with plastics, unfortunately, my tube is written in Swedish, but I did do a web search, couldn't come up with anything negative. The point of the original thread was how to hinge the two lure segments together, keeping a minimal gap. I found your advice of 'use your imagination' unhelpful at the very least. But the point that I really don't get, is the personalised comment at the start of your thread reply.

I had a grinding wheel explode on me while grinding a chunk of stainless. The forman went bananas. I didn't realise at the time that ss severely work hardens. Not sure, but it might work if you anneal it often, as you go. Not sure of the process, it was a long time ago.

The back of the pins could be notched at the base, or replaced with a rail, chamfered at the base. That should hold it.

Sorry, accidently deleted it. Here it is again. http://aolpictures.aol.co.uk/galleries/folicallychalled/1de0uAWn7u0u-R-x0SDQCJxqupzm8TWz4QdVv4xQp5Fd3Ig=/large/

The links below are my solution to hands free operation. It has not een built, but I made a cardboard version and it worked fine. The stensils 'snap' into place past the pegs and lift out from the front or back with ease. The stensil is held quite firmly using acetate sheet and it will work with any material that tends to spring back to flat. I think the pictures are clear enough for construction, but if anyone wants more info, I am prepard to draw it up with instructions. http://aolpictures.aol.co.uk/galleries/folicallychalled/1de0uAWn7u0u-R-x0SDQCJxquoXFbCnLzvgfv4xQp5Fd3Ig=/large/ http://aolpictures.aol.co.uk/galleries/folicallychalled/1de0uAWn7u0u-R-x0SDQCJxquo1y7ErXS8y5v4xQp5Fd3Ig=/large/ There are lots of possibilities for improvement. Many more ideas could be incorporated, but I decided to keep it simple for discussion purposes.

This is a quick sketch of my hinge idea. I have tested the construction and it works, but not tested on a lure, but I am confident that it will work. It solves all the problems outlined in the above threads. http://links.pictures.aol.com/pic?id=1de0uAWn7u0u-R-x0SDQCJxqulMeIbMDsN65v4xQp5Fd3Ig=&size=l Comments please.

I've been messing about with multi segment lures on and off for the last three months, experimenting with hinge ideas. I have settled on a nylon type thread. I bought 100m of it in a large hardware store. It was too thick in its bought state, but found that when unravelled, it was perfect. The thread is glued into 10mm lengths of thin plastic tubes, ie. one hinge comprises one length of thread and two tubes with a gap between the tubes of 1mm or less. 1mm dia Pilot holes for the tubes are drilled prior to painting. After the lure is completely finished, the pilot are opened up to the correct dia for the tubes, allowing enough slop for the epoxy. The surface of the tubes are roughed up to improve adhesion before cutting them to length. Then simply epoxy them in. Make sure you keep the epoxy away from the hinge area, as it does tend to flow a couple of mm along the thread. Sounds complicated, but after a couple of goes you will get organised. It is possible to make enough hinges to last the whole season in an afternoon. With one joint comprising of two hinges, their are no body rotation problems. For multi segment lures, I simply thread the segments on without gluing, allowing them to float free on the lines. I works for me.

I've just put the vernier on a piece. Thickness 0.13mm or 5 thou' in American money. It is very thin but not as floppy as you would expect. When glued to a curved former or frame it becomes quite stiff, certainly stable enough to handle for spray templates. It takes to super glue if you rough it up with fine emery. A single frame could be manufactured and the templates made interchangeable, by hanging on pegs or velcro. I'm sure more ideas will come to light.

That's the point of this site. Bring on the ideas, no matter how wacky, then we can choose the best that suits us individually. There is rarely one best solution that suits everyone.

I haven't reached the stage of spray templates as yet. But, as an engineer I am big on jigs. I will be making my templates out of acetate sheet as used by overhead projectors. It is very cheap (everyone knows someone who works in an office). A dozen sheets of A4 will give you enough sheets to last a lifetime. They are very easy to cut with a sharp modellers knife. They can be mounted onto curved frames made of stiff cardboard. presumably, the lure is held in the same position each time by a clamp system of some sorts. If the free standing acetate frame has a couple of pointers, one for the nose, another for the tail, then the frame could be positioned in the same location every time, without error or hassle. the pointers don't touch the lure, just position both ends of the lure. Thus you control height, width, depth, distance and angle relative to the lure and gain repeatability without any effort.

You need a metal tube of the correct diameter for your needs. Steel would be best. Sharpen the end on a sander and wet stone. Flatten it slightly to achieve the shape that you want. To finish off, a rod to eject the punched eyes. You could probably punch a dozen and then eject them in one go.

Comming up with a great idea to change the world, then finding out it's already been done.