smallmouthaholic

Some additional, on-line research has indicated we need to be using glass measuring cups made from borosilicate. American Pyrex cups are made from cheap lime soda glass. http://www.containerstore.com/shop/kitchen/foodPrep/measuring?utm_medium=feed&117021=&productId=10000652&utm_source=shoppin You can google Exploding Pyrex Cups and read some alarming stories.

I had a full(16oz.)Pyrex cup explode on me 1 year ago. I removed it from the microwave and was stirring the mix @ waist height and observed the glass starting to spiderweb. Then BOOM!!! like a rifle shot it exploded all over the shop and my long pants and shoes. I think I'll try and have some type of tight-fitting cumber bun made w/Velcro fasteners and make some type of wooden Cage(if you will) like they use on split-rim tires. I'm wearing a full face shield when using/handling these potential bombs. A very dangerous hand grenade w/ glass shrapnel for sure when one decides to detonate..

That 5'"is a monster-measured from the head to the outside curve of the tail.The head of the grub is almost the thickness of your pinky finger .You could smack people in the face w/the tail and put a welt on their face-if not knock them out. The 3" -2 cavity is the one you want. I'm having a 3 1/2'"-dual cavity custom grub mold made .I'll bet this will be similar to the 5" Kalin or Zoom Albert is size and shape. Call David-he'll send you a sample of the differt grubs and worms-that's how I started w/ this madness.

Some are 5 and some are 2 from Bears. The Mogambu grub is a single cavity. Well designed ,hand-injected grub molds are very easy to work with. You wonder why you ever hand poured all this time once you get into it.

I just use a single bar clamp w/6 Bears ,hinged injector molds and inject. Presto-no digs no dents - no vise-no suction cups - no pressure pots. It's called the K.I.S.S. system

I have 2 presto pots complete from Bear. Better then sliced bread. Bear sets them up correctly. The motor spins the paddles a @ good speed to keep everything in suspension. Drilled and tapped-ready to go - why play around spending time to make your own-locating everything when you can be making baits.

Why the 70/30 hard lead composition for a slip jig? I personally would only use that mix for buzz baits and spinner baits. Thanks for the detailed info - Al

Your lead is too hard.(Stop using those freebie wheel weights ) I pour and sell 60-100 of them each year for the past 6 years. Take a file and carefully open up the entrance for the lead-just a bit. Make sure you're centered over the pour hole and use soft,clean lead.

Although there are ways around your problem,that's precisely why i stopped using RTV after making close to 100 custom molds and went to custom CNC molds. You only buy them once and they're precision. There are different types of RTV silicones rated for different temperatures. Do not coat your bait w/ anything. Call Jon Flint @ advanced materials -800-327-8787 for your 10 pd. kits of RTV silicone.

Salt keeps the baits from sticking together - especially tube bait tales.

1 drop of worm oil placed in the center of the collar will solve your problem. I thought someone might say KY-gel in jest

Now we're getting somewhere Jim. I only bought 1 RTV hand-pour grub mold 6 years ago. What a friggin' nightmare. Over pours,under pours and trimming to boot. Then I saw a two part,CNC hand pour deal where you pour the tail 1st,then close the mold and pour the rest of the grub. Is somebody jackin' me ? I could by 100's of grubs from Barlow's for the price of that two-operation,two piece Neanderthal grub mold. Now I've moved into injection and bought 2- 5 cavity grub molds and 3 two cavity 3" molds from Bears. I just ordered 3 custom 3 1/2" grub molds from Bears. They are the easiest to inject and I even have shot two-color grubs. his grubs are measured from the tip to the back of the tail. Here's the best part-I can inject them w/ med. plastisol and they swim as good or better then a Kalins w/o the sticky,thin fragile tail. Consistency,production and dependable performance for the rest of my life with these CNC injection molds. Buy quality 1 time and save money in the long run. I can hand pour w/the best of them but only when necessary.. Much too time consuming. Peace Jim- Al P.S. Thanks for the compliment on the website baits. Some are hand pour(trimming required) and some are injection. All new baits this year are injection. Much new updated info and pics are necessary.

Most certainly.If money isn't the issue,why would someone want the inconsistencies of hand pour. Soon,one gets over the euphoria of pouring their own baits,experiences all the caveats and decides they want other options and productive baits that do require injection.

Jim, What is that supposed to be ? OMG- every appendage has a breather pour that has to be pulled and/or trimmed off. That might be OK for the hobbyist but not for the professional. Personally,if I injected a bait that looked like that I'd scream and throw it back into the Presto Pot. You might want to consider get a refund on that mold . TU has many professionals /businessmen that are willing to give good,honest advice based upon their experience and the small fortunes they spent to learn the ins and outs-myself included. Newbies look forward to this advice to save time and $. I don't consider telling folks you can pour 100 finished grubs in less then a 1/2 hr.from a fragile POP mold good ,accurate advice. You know as well as I that plastic will run into the numerous breather holes around the tail of the grub and need to be hand trimmed off -15 30 seconds per grub X 100. Need help w/the math? That may be OK with someone who doesn't care about down time but is not opened for discussion when precise production and bait performance enters into the discussion. Your rebuttal on injecting grub molds doesn't hold a thimble full of water and speaks volumes on your lack of experience w/ superior quality ,CNC injection molds for grubs and others as well. I wish I had all of the $ I wasted over the years on bulk RTV silicone(@ wholesale prices) in 10 pd. pales making custom molds. I've spent 5 years hand pouring and 4 months injecting and in all honesty,can't go back. Yes,there are a few baits you can pour via hand pour but many that can only be injected. You can tie -up considerable $ in 2 part,CNC hand pour molds and I have many. they will be vented and modified for injection or sold in the near future.The caveats associated w/ hand pouring are too numerous to mention . I've objected to your post politely but directly since you're in the business. I was a contractor for 30 years w/ employees and time is money to me. Yes it's expensive to get into injection on a large scale but a brick wall faces those in the business who refuse to step-up and modify their thinking. Have a good weekend - Al

WOW!!! 100 hand our grubs in less then an hour. It's pointless to argue w/ someone who obviously has "O" injection experience. I'm a bit surprised you talk this way when you're in your own business.Your flimsy justification that a POP mold can even begin to compete w/ Precision CNC injection molds w/ multiple cavities tells me it's time to wish you well and goodnight!

Drop the pop mold one time and you have a 1000 piece puzzle Time is money to me and I'd buy grubs vs. pouring them 1 @ a time then hand trimming the multiple vents. bears grub molds have superlative swimming action injected w/ medium plastisol w/o the tails sticking together.

Pardon me,but why in the world would anyone want a time consuming hand pour grub mold you had to trim when Bears injected grubs molds are so easy to inject and produce a perfect grub every time w/ no trimming. Some are even multi cavity injection molds.

Injection hands down over hand-pour. I hand poured for 5 years and now that I'm into injecting for 3 months,I don't want to hand pour any product unless ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY and the price will JUSTIFY the time My 2 color injection experience is from Bears Baits not Bass Tackle. 2 color injection is tricky @ best. I've just started last week and have had results from excellent to poor. It's a big learning curve and it takes time for sure but practice makes perfect. David Alexander is always willing to spend time w/you over the phone and has a video on his forum that will show you basic 2color injecting. It is definitely not a production process. Hopefully when his new injection machine gets on line, the time will decrease greatly and consistency will improve 90% Injection hands down over hand-pour. I hand poured for 5 years and now that I'm into injecting for 3 months,I don't want to hand pour any product unless ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY and the price will JUSTIFY the time My 2 color injection experience is from Bears Baits not Bass Tackle. 2 color injection is tricky @ best. I've just started last week and have had results from excellent to poor. It's a big learning curve and it takes time for sure but practice makes perfect. David Alexander is always willing to spend time w/you over the phone and has a video on his forum that will show you basic 2color injecting. It is definitely not a production process. Hopefully when his new injection machine gets on line, the time will decrease greatly and consistency will improve 90%

Mend-it soft bait repair glue http://www.tacklesmith.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=76&gclid=CPK7lvvTlqECFY9M5QodiS5jkA

Remember a U.S.A. patent is only good in the U.S.A. A foreign company can copy it and I believe you're out of luck. You also need deep pockets to defend your patent in court. Good luck w/your new product

Where did you obtain the plastic ,vinyl freezer door material?

Methyl Ethyl Ketone will soften hard plastic and is an excellent metal cleaner. It thins vinyl lure & paints. It will also clean-up airbrushes used w/VL&J paint

Please excuse the double post as this one could not be deleted.

Call Dave from Bears baits and start off on the right foot by injecting . He'll spend the time to get you started w/everything you need including the CNC injection molds but it's doubtful you'll stay within your $1000.00 budget.. For most baits today,injection is the way to go if you're in business and want production w/various baits w/small appendages,feet and tails. bear@bearsbaits.com 985-969-1390

Good advice for sure. Don't forget, as a fishing tackle manufacturer,you are required to file quarterly excise tax forms w/the I.R.S. and pay a 10 % tax on gross sales each and every quarter. I.R.S. Form #720 Many skirt this and think they got away w/it UNTIL-the tax man cometh w/interest / penalties and reality sends a bolt of lightning through your checkbook. It sounds like you need to learn you plastics and hardness/softness texture desired for each type of soft-bait. before you start selling baits Then approach a local tackle shop and see what they're willing to pay. For starters they want everything 40% off of your retail prices and don't get hooked into a consignment deal. You deliver product-you get paid in full on the spot. Pardon the reality harshness but the business world doesn't care - it's all about profit and how fast your product moves in a store.