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Devcon 2-ton vs. Zap Z-poxy 30 min.
9 replies to this topic
Posted 16 March 2008 - 07:56 AM
A lot of builders use Devcon 2-ton for sealing and coating. What about Z-poxy 30 min.? Any user experiences out here?
I'm asking this because I can't find any store selling Devcon 2-ton in Holland. A few stores however sell the Z-poxy.
Any input appreciated!
Posted 17 March 2008 - 12:57 PM
Well, obviously nobody has tried it! What makes Devcon Two Ton a good clearcoat is that it levels out very well after you brush it on, and it cures crystal clear. Why not try the Z-poxy as a sealer and see how it does? If it levels and is clear, it should work fine. If not, you've got the sealer on there anyway. Sand it smooth and look for another clearcoat.
Posted 17 March 2008 - 01:21 PM
That's what I was thinking, I'm just gonna give it a shot.
The z-poxy 5 min. is used a lot in fly tying and cures clear as well.
I guess the 30 min z-poxy should give similar results as D2T.
As soon as I tried it I will keep you guys informed about the results.
Posted 17 March 2008 - 05:34 PM
i used the 5 minute on some of the first lures i made it eventually went soft and peeled,on fly heads it's gone yellow so i wouldn't recommend it on lures,30 minute i don't know i've not tried it,why not try e-tex much more cost effective than 2T and available in europe
Posted 17 March 2008 - 08:09 PM
yup i would go for the etex also you get more bang for your buck much longer working time and its clear as glass when all dry only thing is you will need to build a spiner if you plan on doing more than a few plugs or you will go crazzzzzzzzy flipping them for hours...
Posted 17 March 2008 - 08:32 PM
Does Devcon 2-ton require thinning prior to application? If so, what does everyone use to thin? Thanks.
Posted 17 March 2008 - 11:29 PM
D2T doesn't require thinning at temps above 70 degrees but you can add A FEW DROPS of denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner in cooler temps. Stir it in after you mix the 2 parts. I generally use denatured alcohol because it flashes out of the epoxy a little slower, extending the brushing time. I also use a 50/50 mix of D2T/DN for waterproofing/sealing. The Etex (Envirotex Lite) is an epoxy formulated to refinish table tops and comes with some solvent in it. It's much thinner than straight D2T. Buy it at home centers or at Michael's Crafts in 2 8oz bottles for around $12. Personally, I like the D2T because it will cure in 6-8 hrs even when thinned while the Etex takes considerably longer.
Posted 18 March 2008 - 08:18 AM
I use Etex to top coat my jointed lures. I was thinking about using 2 ton to coat the joints first, as this is always a problem when I do it at the same time as the rest of the lure.
Do you know if I will have any problems with Etex bonding to or delaminating from 2 ton?
I'd use Etex for the joints in a separate operation, but it take soooo long to set. At least, with the 2 ton, I think I could do the joints, and then coat the baits the same day when it has set.
Posted 18 March 2008 - 04:22 PM
There may be different chemistries used in the hardeners but I haven't heard of epoxies that were incompatible, so I think it's an excellent bet it would work. You could probably coat with D2T and then use Etex an hour later, just after the D2T was past the "spin cycle".
Posted 18 March 2008 - 04:58 PM
Thanks. Anything that makes coating joints easier would be a big help.