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Newbie Has Basic Questions
11 replies to this topic
Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:51 AM
I have just recieved my order of lips for my cranks. I ordered wrong size because I didnt ask here first. So am I to assume that the measurements of a lip are the length x the widest part of the lip? Secondly, the lips that looked like they should be the right size seem to be too thick. Do I sand the lip down a little or do I make the slot bigger or both? I thought that if I sanded the lip down with the Dremel that it would weaken it too much. Likewise with the bait itself. This seemed to be such an easy task at first but I aint so sure now.
Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:45 PM
Chief, I'd also assume the sizes are length x width. I wouldn't try sanding down a lip to make it thinner because it would be lots of work and the end result would probably look pretty crude. Seems it would be much easier to make the slot bigger. Of course, a thicker lip is also heavier, so maybe that enters into your thinking also. Eventually, you will bow to the inevitable and start making your own lips ouf of polycarbonate and circuit board sheet. There is just too limited a choice in commercial shapes and sizes to suit every crankbait you will want to make.
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:54 PM
Indeed the weight did enter my mind. This leads me to the next phase of madness in that if I did want to cut my own this means another power tool. I saw a video today on the site that did just that but I dont own a laminate router as of yet. Would a coping saw do the trick?? I have a band saw and a scroll saw and I have a Bosch "Roto Zip" thingy that somebody give to me. Brand new and I didn't really know what do with it. Next question would be where do I purchase circuit board /poly . I think the idea of me cutting my own would be a better solution than purchasing lips cause all of my baits are doomed to be individuals of there own ... each and every dang one.
Posted 10 February 2012 - 06:00 PM
You don't need to have a router to cut your own lips Chief. I think Bob cuts his out with a pair of metal shears (what some call tin snips) and I cut mine with a Dremal and a cut off wheel. Both of us then sand them down to the layout lines. This can be done with the Dremal and a sanding drum. If the edges are still to rough for your liking they can be polished with the the buffing wheel and polishing compound that comes with most Dremel kits.
The video you spoke of is the ultimate way to go and I hope to get one of these set up one day, but it is not a must have.
Posted 10 February 2012 - 06:50 PM
Thanks for the info
I have a Dremel tool
Now to find that other stuff........
Posted 10 February 2012 - 08:28 PM
Just remember not to try and cut right on the layout line with the Dremel. It's pretty much the same thing as cutting shapes out with a bandsaw. Cut just outside the layout line and leave a little cleanup for something that's not quite as aggressive. Like the sanding drums or even a hand sanding pad.
Posted 10 February 2012 - 09:47 PM
i cut mine out on my scrollsaw. then finish sand edges. you can get lexan ( polycarbonate) at Lowes and Home D.
Posted 10 February 2012 - 09:55 PM
Same here Chief. Have a real hard time making any two exactly alike but once you get them to swim it really does not matter.
I use a scroll saw to cut my lexan bibs. i get the lexan from Lowes. Thinnest smallest piece they have goes for 3.50 where I am at. It is too thick for most peoples taste but I tell you it will get the job done. I draw my template on a piece of paper. Then use this to make a thicker template from a cardboard box. This template
I then use to draw out pattern on lexan. Then to the scroll saw. Band saw works well to but with the variable speed scroll I can really go slow. I finish with a belt sander I have mounted to my bench with 120 grit sandpaper on it. For final touch up work I have a set of those cheap harbor freight mini files sets. They work great for this task. Good luck.
Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:19 PM
Thank you all for the tips and advice.
One note of disappointment. I was looking around yesterday and noticed the TU annual gathering. I really want to make a trip one year but I assume that I have missed out for the year. Always another time..
Posted 11 February 2012 - 01:40 PM
I order polycarbonate in 1'x1' by 1/16" thickness from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Lexan is the GE brand name for polycarbonate. McMaster also carries circuit board under the nomenclature "garolite" and their prices and service are as good as any I've seen online. G-10 is a tech standard for circuit board and is the one most used by bait builders (and the least expensive too). Check the color of circuit board before you order because it comes in a variety of colors from black to slightly greenish white. Translucent greenish white is the most popular color. I use 1/32" thick circuit board for bass crankbait lips. The white 1/32" board is also used in pre-cut lips sold by Janns Netcraft and other tackle sources. BTW, mcmaster.com is also a good source for various wire types. Like Ben, I rough cut lip blanks with metal snips (mine are Wiss straight cut shears from Home Depot, about $12). Then I sand the shape down to the exact line with a 1/2" Dremel fine sanding cylinder, then polish the edges with a Dremel felt polishing cylinder (I run mine dry, without polishing compound). If you do thicker lips, the snips may not be as handy but they have no problem cutting 1/32" or 1/16" board accurately. The real "trick" to making good lips is to start with an exact symmetrical template. I do mine on a computer, print them out, then make patterns from plastic sheets or spare circuit board material.
Posted 11 February 2012 - 05:46 PM
i really appreciate the help fellows. I hope someday that I can return the favor. I"m off to the store soom
Posted 13 February 2012 - 09:26 AM
I went to the McMaster site and found everything I needed and more. Thanks guys. This site is Home Depot on steroids.