Vodkaman

Tater and Dean, well said. Haven't seen all the other sites yet, but from what I have seen, for lure construction, TU is by far the best. This is down to Jerry and all the mods. I refuse to soak up any more of Jerry's personal funds. Pay the subs, it is the right thing to do. As for the rambling issue, as Jerry said, an error of judgment was made. I've made LOTS of those, I learn from each one and try not make the same mistake again. Some times I have to make the mistake two or three times before I finally learn. Most of you guys have always cut me some slack and TU life moves on, better for the experience. It's time to drop it and move on. Maybe this post is another mistake, but it is my opinion, we are all allowed those.

What a great idea. Hand tools only, nothing pre-cut or molded. Battery power only, could be an option. Could even have rustic version, where the body wood has to be collected locally, back to basics. Good one for the Clinton meet. My fastest from first cut to swimming is about 20 min, sealed with 5 min epoxy, no paint. But I'm sure that could be topped.

Dramone. re - post 15. #1. Well I never knew that! #2. excellent idea! Thanks Dramone & Husky.

The hidden talents of Daimei! Happy birthday Braided Line.

Epoxies are exothermic, they generate heat while they are innitially curing. This is not so obvious on the slow cure epoxies, compared to the 5 minute epoxy. But when using balsa, which holds a very high proportion of air, even a temp rise of a vew degrees, will cause significant air expansion inside the body. This explains why the bubble usually appears when it is too late to fix, because the epoxy has already thickened. If this theory is true, then one solution would be to coat warm baits, then move to a cooler room to cure. Sorry for theorizing, but it made sense to me.

BrianB, two methods. #1, the box is rectangular, so the volume can be easily calculated by multiplying the length x width x height. You might want to subtract the lure volume, but I wouldn't bother, too deep is better than too shallow. #2, More accurately, fill with water to the level you require. Pour the water into a container and weigh the water in grams. This will give you the volume in cm3, 1 gram of water = 1 centimeter cube. But now you have to dry the setup, as drops of water will probably leave pockets. I use method #1 for RTV, method #2 for PoP.

You've taken lure vids to a new level, great job. Nice lure too, but the fish already complemented you there.

To be honest, I didn't notice a twisting in the swim action. But, when the lure halts, the last two sections do twist up. Because you have used balsa, a very buoyant wood, any sections without ballast will try to lie flat. This takes up the slack in the hinges and twists. You cannot solve this problem at the hinges, the play is required to keep the movement free. The only solution is to ballast one or both of the rear sections. Maybe just the second to last section alone will reduce the problem to your satisfaction. Of course, this might harm the action you have now, only a trial will reveal.

Thanks Gaboon1. England extends a warm welcome too. We have a team of experts waiting for your question as I type (not me though). I am confident your solutions will be forthcomming.

Hi Gaboon, Welcome. Where's BFE?

That thing really swims! I thought the tank was fine, just big enough. Vid was good too.

Do you have any photo editing software, like photoshop? They usually have pallete options that you can experiment with. This might give you a clue.

Gunnie, I wouldn't worry about them. Most buyers would be worried about being ripped off or the quality. Generally, you get what you pay for. You don't really want the type of customer that shops in the gutters. Hand pours are a quality product and discerning buyers know this fact.

I didn't see the closing bid. If the winner pays up, I'll be puttin' up my Y fronts.

Given your clamping constraints, your choice and options make sense.

Robalo01, have you done any 2 piece resin molds? If so, what release agent do you use? Having trouble splitting the two halves. Kind of a hijack, but all relevant. This could turn into a good thread.

Golfball dimples and boundary layers. Related subjects, baseball - picking seams, cricket - polishing one side of the ball, table tennis - new and old balls, American football - throwing technique, UK football - bending. Wing theory. All favourites of mine. How many pages do you want? None - good decision. Thanks Pete, very interesting.

Sealed properly, any wood will last a lifetime.

I like to add lots of ballast, to control the results. So only lighter woods for me.

Thanks anyway. The scale needs to be 0.1gram accuracy. Sorry for digressing the subject.

I don't think anyone has ever stated here on TU, that a particular wood was just not suitable for lure building. Balsa needs special attention, but its buoyancy attributes make it worth the effort. Some woods have particularly hard grain, making shaping a little more difficult, but strength wise, after balsa, they are all good. I did a search on poplar, it came up with 84 posts, so it is obviously a fairly popular choice. If this statement is not true, I'd like to hear about it too.

I second Jerry's comments. He's a cabinet maker, knows what he is talking about. My brother is a chainsaw artist and uses PVA (elmers) exclusively. Excellent strength, but give it 24 hours undisturbed. Can't wait to see the pics!

I don't get it, the bikes not for sale yet! Maybe I should start a sweaty knicker business.

Excellent!

Yes, the plastic would need 110% attention from yourself and head to toe protection for the boy (and yourself). Hardbaits is a lot safer, no heavy tools required, especially with relatively non-toxic acrylic paints. I still wouldn't breath the spray in though. If you fish plastics, then it is a shame to have to do something else. There has been lots of discussion on safety that you should read first. I think there is a sticky at the top of the plastics forum. Yes, "don'ts for newbies". Must read this first. Welcome to TU.