dog1660

Robbor, thank you for the info. I will look into that. I have also recently tried alumilite as well and that seemed to work well for small molds.

Just wondering what material do you use to make the mold itself??? And I assume it is for pouring lead. I have made some molds myself using bondo but is tends to break away with time.

Red for me, gives the bait a little contrast. Nice job on the baits.

Really great video. Thanks for sharing.

I really like the sponge way to do it as well. I have been doing it that way a lot lately and really like the effect you can get, very easy to go heavy or as light as you want. Very effective technique.

I have several Sahara 2500 spinning reels and some are starting to bind up and become hard to reel under a load. I have rebuilt 2 with new drive gears, I think its only a matter of time before they start doing the same thing. The gears are aluminum and wore down. Some internet chatter would suggest that the later models have resolved a internal clearance problem. Have you had the same problems?? Should I consider replacing with later Shimano reels, or go with another brand. I try to stay in the 70-120$ range. I loved them in the beginning but just seems to be the same problem again and again. Please comment and thanks in advance.

Thank you guys for your replies and ideas. I really like the idea of using the panty hose to screen the paint right from the bottle. For the longest time I have been just straining the paint at the cup. The wife keeps me in good supply of paint strainers...lol. The compressor I have been using is a tank style and runs up to 80lbs, air supply is never a problem. I did finally get mad enough and decided its time for an upgrade and purchased a Paasche Talon gravity feed gun. Wow what a difference, that is one hell of an airbrush. I plugged it into my current setup and it worked very nice. Absolutely a fine tool to use. Sometimes it pays, just to pay a little more. I should have done this years ago. Thanks again for all the input.

I have been shooting createx paint, I have even changed nozzle, tip and needle, cleaned every part to new condition. Even with water/cleaner it will still have that cyclic off and on type pattern.

I have just recently run into a problem with my Paasche LV air brush having a cyclic sputtering problem. The paint passages are all clear and clean and I have even changed the nozzle, tip, and needle. All the paint passages are in good shape but it continues to shoot, choke, shoot, choke in a cycle. The more trigger you give it the faster it will cycle. I pulled a bunch of garbage out of it the first time it came apart and have gone through it completely about 10 times, tore it down to just the body and rebuilt it over and over but the problem continues. It seems like an internal air passage problem within the body of the gun. Any ideas ????

I have something simular to the two piece aluminum angle, if you lay a bead of high temp red RTV on the inside top edge and let it cure overnight, it will help hold the jigs in place. I have one made of wood also just for painting spinner baits with thin foam on the inside and it holds very well.

Thank you all for your reply. I want to look into using the teflon pins, who do you get your teflon pins from???

It seems that most of the latest jigs are being made with the brush guards added last or after paint. My question is are you pouring your jigs with the guard in place or installing them later? Paint first then guard or paint and tie in the skirt and do the guard very last. I think it would be a lot easier to tie without a guard in the way, I just wanted to see how most of you prefer to do this. Thanks for any input.

You may also want to try using talc. (baby powder) in the mold as well, I read a thread about fluxing and someone mentioned using talc. so I gave it a try and it made all the differance in the world. The product released from the mold better and the fill was more complete. Very in-expensive tip with great results.

You might also consider using a 2 part product called Quick Seel for the head of the A-rig, this works really well and is very strong. I have several rigs made with this and they are bullet proof, it really is just like steel and very easy to shape without the weight of lead.

Thank you for your replies.

Thank you for the replies. I have reposted this topic in wire baits forum.

I just wanted to find out what material have any of you used to make lead molds with. Aluminum is clearly number one material but if you dont have it what do you think the best alternative should be. I have been pouring using wood (clear maple) and that has worked ok so far. I wanted to try some bondo to see how that would work. I made some umbrella rigs using some of the putty that gets rock hard like steel. That worked well also. Any input will be helpful. Thanks. Moved from hard baits forum.