Paxamus

thanks ill check it out

Hey guys, I am about to make a hardhead mold like the biffle one and was wondering what y'all are using for the hook hanger & line tie? Are y'all bending wire or buying an insert? Thanks

It will depend not only on the weight, but also the shape. Footballs take the most silicone, while others less. I have gotten around six to seven two part single pour molds per quart, but it will vary. If you decide to try it shoot me an email or a pm and I will give you any help I can. Paxamus

I shoot a quick shot of a white grease over it and wipe off as much as possible before pouring the second half. I have used thinner stuff but have had issues with bubbles. The grease seems to stay slick even after it has been wiped off.

Also make sure you let your silicone molds cool, two ounces is a lot of lead for silicone. They hold heat for a long time and need to cool to insure a longer life. When I go to pour with my silicone molds, I will pour one, then pour other molds to let them cool down some. I find that pouring other things makes it easier to kill time. If you still have issues with that you could try a different silicone, give the guy at Sunbelt Materials a call, he is a class act.

Here are some of mine

True but I guess it is how quick it cools that makes ok. I had the same concerns when I started making them but each one is still good after hundreds of pours.

PM sent, I make RTV Molds

I have had a similar problem with there website, I just called them and they were very helpful over the phone

I use Rhodorosil v340 to make lead jig molds, works great and I make my mold boxes out of legos. The legos work great, only a tiny bit of silicone sneaks in between the legos

The thickness should be somewhere around 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the maximum diameter just to ensure a long mold life. I use a razor knife, like an exacto knife or scalpel to cut pour holes and hook spaces. I have found that screwing a cut piece of plywood to both sides makes it easier to pour multiple molds at once. You don't have to attach a piece of wood but it does displace the pressure from a clamp so you get a better pour

I wasn't sure looking at them if they would even hold up to leads high temps, so I called the owner, Jim Dailey. I told him what I was going to use the silicone for and he told me to use that one. Others may work, but that's the told me to use and dlaery on this website had used v330. So that helped

Not that I am aware of, I think that the heat of the lead would make the clay crack.

Sink your mold halfway into modeling clay, then build a mold box around the area you want to pour, place your keys. Measure your silicone, mix, then pour the first half. Wait 24 hrs, then demold, clean up any overpours then place jig in silicone mold from the day before and repour the other half. If you write down the amount you used for the first half you can eliminate that step and just pour.

I use Legos for my mold boxes and they work great. With the small thing of Rhodorosil from Sunbelt you should be able to do it, but I would caution making a 3 jig mold. I would make three one cavity molds, because if you make a three cavity, the silicone makes the cooling of the jig take longer, so with three cavities it would keep your mold hotter longer and then have longer demold time and your silicone mold will stay hotter longer and lessen the life of your mold. I personally have made a two cavity and used it but was MUCH happier making single cavities and pouring one, then while it cools pour another. Plus you actually use less silicone. Setup is 24 hrs for a complete cure for each side. Let me know if I can help.

Shouldn't be a problem. You would have to take a jig and place it in the mold, then pour the silicone in that half( mold open at this point) to fill the weed guard hole. Then once dry repeat in the other half. cut a small slot for the wire weed guard and pour

I have done it and so far they hold up great. The beauty of it is that you can replicate almost any jig and change hooks as you want. Here are some of the ones that I have made http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/Paxamus/ i got my silicone from Jim at Sunbelt Materials- he is a great guy with fast shipping. I used the Rhodorosil v340. There are alot of nuances to making a mold and I would be glad to help with any questions.

I might have to get me some of those, thanks!

At first I was cutting a few with the wire, but after a while I dont have that problem anymore. And thanks, I finally felt like they were up to TU standards.

I normally use skirt bands, because I can make up a large number of skirts, then when ready to tie them, I slide them on the jig, wrap with wire and remove the band. Here is one of my mop jigs http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/Paxamus/6cae37d5.jpg I just like using the bands, because I can put a whole bunch of skirts together and then tie whenever I get the chance. I would like to try the fly tying thread, might have to order a bobbin. Which thread are you using?

I like to use the green enamel coated floral wire you can get at any Ace Hardware, the galvanized works well too. http://www.midlandhardware.com/100-ft-24-Gauge-Green-Floral-Wire-Multi-Purpose-Floral-Wire_p_78099.html Here is one of my football jigs I tied http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/Paxamus/274c8020.jpg

MIght have to check that porous board out!! Thanks

Never thought about washing my clothes separate. Good idea

Should be, I use normal old modeling clay and have forgot to use any lubricant or grease and still had the mold pull away without issues

Thanks again dlaery for directing me this way, stuff is great. Now I almost like making molds as much as pouring lead!