Jump to content


TU Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Outlaw4 last won the day on May 21

Outlaw4 had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Outlaw4's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges



  1. another thing you might consider is you can isolate the paddle from the body to some extent with segmentation like the yamamoto zako. its very popular as a vibrating jig trailer as is doesnt mess up the vibration and yet still has tail kick.
  2. one thing to keep in mind on prop baits, in particular rear prop baits is to make sure the rear hook clears the prop or you may find it to stall on start up. need to space them back or heat shrink them straight
  3. im not sure there is such a things as too much wobble if its not unstable. wobble and kick in a paddle tail is good. id fish test it good before making too big a swing
  4. here is an example of where an intercoat could/should have been used, this is new plastic bait i am aiming to try out so i put a quick paint on it not so much worrying about details. I sprayed the white base coat, peal white over that, chartreuse back, and then the pink head. Heat set in between colors. But as you can see in this picture the pink still blended enough with the chartreuse enough to make it more orangey on the top of the head. If i had put an intercoat on before i spray the pink it would have stayed pink. I like to use the kbs spray clear if its important not to blend the colors. Im sure there are many other good ways. An intercoat is also a nice way to "save" your progress, as if you make a mistake you can wipe off and not lose the whole bait.
  5. as stated template, draw the line, cut to the outside of the line, sand the line off. Only real way to make that work in my experience. Fine tooth blades for the saws help and just go slow. Having a template that is good is really important. I find if i get hasty in the setup it goes downhill quickly
  6. I just put some 60* Victory hooks in a custom jig mold designed for the Mustad 32786 and they fit fine and jigs turned out nice. Have not fished them yet but no bad ones in the samples i have. Also put some light wire 90* red hooks in a do it ball head jig and those were good as well. Again not fished with yet but they made fine jigs. Was able to put over size hooks with no issues. They seem sharp and if they are indeed able to keep fish pinned as designed i feel they will be a good additional option for people. ...should also note here i was specifically looking to try the V LOC technology, if it works it could make these an exceptional value
  7. of the one you listed Basswood will carve the best. Its really nice to cut and will hold screw eyes. cedar is good, it carves fine and is arguably the best lure making wood. you left out balsa and its not great for carving but it makes good lures, but needs though wire preferably, but not always a lot of lures get made out of poplar and are fine. if you have some id use it as that is cool to use what you have In general for diving plugs your lighter woods are best, balsa, basswood western red cedar etc... top waters are pretty forgiving and is a good git for poplar, i prefer western red, or Alaskan yellow cedar here gliders are a good spot for maple or other harder hoods
  8. late to the party on this one, but they are common with saltwater suppliers like... https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/lead-lure-weights.html
  9. Outlaw4

    Eye size

    a number of the places that sell blanks also put the recommended parts lists in the descriptions would just have to check a few to find a close match. like... https://www.lurepartsonline.com/LPO-Pro-Series-Hard-Body-Blanks
  10. Outlaw4

    Paint brand

    wicked for me.
  11. i am looking to get a couple of custom CNC jig molds made and possibly a buzzbait head. anyone have any suggestions?
  12. its interesting. i have experienced attraction and triggering in several fishing situations, couple examples... 1. jig fishing - the jig is both an attraction and trigger lure that can be manipulated by the user. specifically talking vertical jigging here. large aggressive movements to attract, and small jiggly movements to trigger 2. musky glide baits - these are great attractors, fish love to come and check them out. if you are not moving fish a glide bait is a great way to see a fish. and they do trigger and catch fish as well but attracting is their specialty. This all got me to thinking a bit more about making baits. I generally focus on lures as tools. To get a certain depth, to get through weeds, a certain sound, speed etc...more of if it moves it's food approach So the video got me to thinking even with my lures as tools approach to bait making, i should probably also be paying attention more to attraction and triggering as tools as well, and is something that i might be able to dial into a bit more.
  13. Watched this old Doug Hannon video the other day. In particular the first part where he is talking about attraction and triggering qualities of lures and what he prefers and why. Curious what others here who build lures think of this and do you apply the methodology and if so how to the baits you build. Doug Hannon - The Bass Professor - Catching Big Bass (1986) Youtube wont allow me to embed the video but this is what it is titled if you wish to check it out.
  • Create New...