smallheadz Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Ryan, Here is what I did with the pouring tip. I haven't tried it yet but it should work. Just put a slit in the end and crimp it then used a drimel to cut a hole in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delw Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Jim a 3/8 and 1/4 pipe tap can be bought at almost every autoparts store in the states and most hardware stores. The run about 3-12 bucks. Make sure beofre you even buy one that there is enough material to actually make it work( if its a 1/8" thick thats pushing it but will work ) Dont forget that a pipe thread is a tapered thread so dont go all the way through with the tap , go a turn or 2 then try you pipe and a turn or 2 more and try it again. if its thin material under 1/8" make sure you use high temp lock tight and be careful with it. if your pipe goes through to much just measure and cut off the excess that sticks through the pot. A better way to make it work on thin material is to get a knock out tool and punch a hole through the material( home depot sells them, used for electrical stuff)) then you find a brass nut and pipe thread with a flange that you can screw to it. Basically what you get is a brass piece with a pipe thread inside it and a regular out side thread with a nut and washers. Delw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Hey guys, I would caution you to be sure that the valve is well fastened to the bottom of the pot and there is no way for it to tear off. I can't imagine the pain of having the valve come off in your hand, and 330* plastisol pouring all over your hand. That said, usually if you can get 2 or 3 threads in a soft metal like aluminum, it'll be ok. If your fitting extends into the pot anyway, it sure wouldn't hurt to put a nut on it, even if you have to make it yourself, kinda like the nut that holds an electrical fitting in place. A threaded hole, plus a nut it the best bet. It's actually more secure than a clearance hole and a nut on the back side. hope it helps, jm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallheadz Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Here is what I came up with for a cheap variable speed mixer. Notice the hose clamp on the trigger, just tighten it to go faster. I just had this stuff laying around and some free time at lunch. When bolted to the bench it will hold pot and all secure. I made a mixer paddle too and I will post a pic of that if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrawChuck Posted February 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Cool! Monster Lure Garage Mechanics at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallheadz Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Give me a plasma cutter,mig welder,wire,and duct tape and I can HILLBILLY anthing :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nova Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Duck tape= the handyman's secret weapon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Hey guys' date=' I would caution you to be sure that the valve is well fastened to the bottom of the pot and there is no way for it to tear off. I can't imagine the pain of having the valve come off in your hand, and 330* plastisol pouring all over your hand. That said, usually if you can get 2 or 3 threads in a soft metal like aluminum, it'll be ok. If your fitting extends into the pot anyway, it sure wouldn't hurt to put a nut on it, even if you have to make it yourself, kinda like the nut that holds an electrical fitting in place. A threaded hole, plus a nut it the best bet. It's actually more secure than a clearance hole and a nut on the back side. hope it helps, jm[/quote'] I agree jm. I also used JB weld, so that bad boy ain't going nowhere! smallhedz, how is that nozzle working for you? I have removed my nozel and am just pouring out of the valve. Work fine, flow is adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallheadz Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Ryan, I tried it both ways . The valve works best when you cram the salt to it. My mixer works great. I will post a pic of it in a day or 2. I wanted to see just how much salt i could put in it . I used regular salt unground and quit at a 1:1 ratio with perfect consistency. you think the mixer was crazy looking wait till you see the mixer paddles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 smallheadz....Is your drill anchored to anything or just resting up on the shelf??? BTW...Don't try to take away our state product....duck tape....I know guys that have made wallets out of that stuff down here in GA...LOL Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullzeye Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 This is not exactually what yall are looking for, but i wanted to throw some more ideas in. I just scoop the plastic with a soup spoon into a pouring pan and peel off the plastic throw it back in. But this pot is just for dark colors(black)..[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullzeye Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 hummm...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullzeye Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallheadz Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Jim, I put feet on the mixer with holes in them so I can screw it down to the bench. When I do this it puts a small amount of pressure on the pot to hold it in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallheadz Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 here is a pic of the mixer paddles. I have about 1/16 clearance all the way around and about the same at the bottom. The fins I bent in different directions so one would push and one would pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 smallhedz, What is the diameter of that blade? Did you buy it somewhere? Looks like it would work nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallheadz Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 ryan, I made it out of flat stock steel. 5.25" I think is what I cut them at. I measured the inside dia. and then just made it a tad shorter. Cut the slits with a band saw and used a torch to bend the blades, and then just drilled some holes. Welded it all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass1cpr Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Crawchuk Skip the peanut oil. Do a search on heat transfer oil. Much more stable and lasts a lot longer. I use to work as a service manager for a paving maintance supply company. We sold and serviced the melters that they use for sealing the cracks in highways and roads. Sort of a huge double boiler. You will need a temperature control and thermostat for the oil and the heat souce to regulate it. You'll also hae to figure expansion of the oil. Most major oil suppliers have their own brands of Heat Transfer Oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrawChuck Posted March 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass1cpr Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Wow i didn't realize how far behind I was on this thread when I made that post. :-D THis thread is wright up the alley i wanted to persue. Tons of good information. Let the Palstic flow brothers. I'm headed to the store for a fryer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrawChuck Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 Crawchuk Skip the peanut oil. Do a search on heat transfer oil. Much more stable and lasts a lot longer. I use to work as a service manager for a paving maintance supply company. We sold and serviced the melters that they use for sealing the cracks in highways and roads. Sort of a huge double boiler. You will need a temperature control and thermostat for the oil and the heat souce to regulate it. You'll also hae to figure expansion of the oil. Most major oil suppliers have their own brands of Heat Transfer Oil. Behind when you made this post? That's ok since I needed that info and am still going to build the pot in my mind...real soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borderbasser Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 millsryno, I was just curious if you were using salt in your sticks with the pot. If so, what kind and at what ratio. I figured you might have some clogging issues with that ball valve if you were. Sorry if you already posted this information and I missed it. :oops: Thanks TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsryno Posted March 8, 2006 Report Share Posted March 8, 2006 Salt works just fine, no clogging issues so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Predator Bass Baits Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 I got my E-bay special presto pot (For candles) that someone listed a link to today, It does need modifying and I probably would not recomend purchaseing one if your thinking about it, It might work if you do not have the ability to drill and tap your own cheapy pot from the store and just re-rig it. It is a bottom fed spout with a 90 deg. elbow and then a 5" tube then the open/close valve. The problem is that the plastic will not pour out because it gets to cool by the time it gets there. also the temp controller goes up to 400 but only heats the plastic to about 315 and I need to get the plastic up to around 350 to 370 , I plan on getting rid of the 90 and the tube and just run the valve tight to the pot, I will need to lift the pot off the table with a stand and pour from under the pot, right now I just plan to pour into a pyrex and then mix my color but then I need to chuck it into the micro for 30 to 40 seconds. Down the road I might tap into the side of the pot. I do have a couple questions, Can you put the glass lid on the pot to help the plastic get hotter maybe leaving it cracked a bit ? Or can I open the controller up and turn a screw to make it go hotter ? How about a pot rap, anyone making one ? LOL Any other suggestions ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB GONE Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 Not sure about some of the questions but I WOULD NOT put a lid on the pot. As the vapors leave the plastic, moisture is accumulated in the vapors and would return back into your pot. Also, the hot pot and somewhat cooler lid would cause condensation to build up and drip into your plastic. Water and hot plastic do not mix!!!!! If you put some random holes in the lid I think it would work OK. Just cracking it would still allow for condensation on the lid area not open... This happened to me on a smaller scale when I put lids on my aluminum pouring pans to try to keep the plastic warm. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
