UKandy

Thanks for the input I know what you mean by having it in your hand, it's not always easy to advise, but thank you I will take your advice on board, for a crank version test. I have shaped this particular lure to the best of my ability, so that I could try a number of different options with it, jerk, glide, crank, I'm not for one minute saying they will all work, initially the 1st 3 blanks were going to be tried as jerk/glides, with hopefully a nice side to side sweep on retrieve. I'm just interested in learning, vodkaman has helped me a lot already & I was looking forward to some other ideas to try out also. Many thanks Andy.

Bit of a smart arse comment my friend, really any need? Yes the lure blanks are actually high density foam, so take 70g with ease at 7". Will get it figured out, no need for any (blind) input if I've not explained what help I'm looking for. Sorry guys Andy.

Hi all, I've spent today making some new 7" flat sided lure blanks, I've made 6 identical copies in total, the reason I have done this is for testing purposes, I'm looking to make diffetent weighting/hook position variations on 3 of the blanks for initial testing, as I have quite a drive to my lake. The lure blanks take 70g of ballast for a relatively slow sink rate, this is with all hardware attached already. My question Is, if you had 3 blanks to try different hook & ballast placements, what variations would you try over the 3 blanks? & why? I have found the cog/pivot point & was going to try placing the belly hook directly at this point & then insert the ballast slightly forward of the belly hook, I have the front eye dead centre on the nose & the rear hook dead centre off the back tail. It would be good to get a nice side to side glide action if possible, but I'm more interested to find out what 3 variations you would try first to achieve this yourself. I'd like to see if you would move the belly hook from the cog/pivot point or insert the ballast at multiple locations etc, whatever your ideas I'm all ears! The lure blanks are shaped so that the belly is the deepest area of the body, tapering up to the tail area, tear drop shape if you like. I find all input interesting & it helps me learn Andy.

Brilliant read, if it catches it catches bet that 7lb fish was a great scrap! Andy.

Nice Buddy enjoyed reading that Andy.

That's quite a story buddy & can totally see where you're coming from, must of felt good when the whole family were requesting one of your spinners though Andy.

So guys as I'm only just starting out on my journey of lure making, I thought it would be good to hear a few stories about some of best or most pleasing lures you have ever made & why? What made that lure special for you & what was the process you went through to make it, what paint scheme did you choose etc? Hopefully hearing a few success stories will keep the interest flowing while I'm working on my first lures over the weekend All the best Andy.

Great input guys! The pouring of lead did put me off a bit with it been quite dangerous, I have been looking at a Lee production pot, that by the looks of things keeps everything as tidy as possible. Didn't know about the lead wire, that's a good idea that is Andy.

Nice one many thanks buddy. Andy.

Hi all, this may be a daft question, as I'm quite good at them . Okay so I would like to ask if anyone has a recorded table of pre drilled hole diameters & depths, to gauge the weight of which a poured lead slug would weigh? So if I have a bait that say needs 45g of lead for my desired action, what hole diameters would be needed to pour/drip the correct 45g of lead in to the bait body? Obviously I'm assuming we keep the depth of the holes to a minimum for our lures. I was going to do some testing by drilling different sizes holes & depths Into some wood, so as an example take a 10mm drill bit drilled to a depth of 20mm then fill with lead and weigh, but then i thought someone may have already done such a task or has information that explains this much easier than I've probably asked it Many thanks for your input. Andy.

Andy.

thanks for the explanation it's appreciated. Andy.

Would it make a great difference in using 340 opposed to 340L? I understand 340L is low carbon? Andy.

hang on I've screen shot the wrong one! The boss is watching me like a hawk lol.

Out of interest, would this wire be okay? It comes in 160mtrs for under £20 They also do the .051 but it does not say that it's annealed, so o take it that would be harder to work with? Andy.

thanks for the info & links Andy.

cheers guys all really good advice. Andy.

Ahh I see, got ya! The spool I have looked at has the wire on the inside, I just assumed it would come out coiled. Cheers for that info Andy.

That's the stuff buddy Any ideas on the best way to straighten wire from a reel? Cheers, Andy.

yep my bad!! Are you saying I couldn't bend half inch wire with pliers? lol Andy.

Thanks for the info guys I've seen some 0.51 stainless steel lock wire, wondering if this will be okay? It comes in 280mtr reels which is good. I've also seen some 1.5mtr straight 0.51 rods, these won't be anywhere near as cost effective as the 280mtr reel though. Can the lock wire on the reel be straightened out easily? & by what method? Andy.

Hi all, hope you are all safe & well. So I'm still tinkering with my first prototype lure & it's time to seek out some wire for a harness/twist eyes. I would like to ask for advice on the correct type of wire to use & what gauge You would suggest for pike & musky lures? I wanted to start this as a new topic in case any new ideas/materials have arisen since older posts. If anyone knows of any stockists in the UK please do share with me. Really appreciate any advice, after the whole resin cok up that I had it would be nice to get this part correct first time!! Many thanks, Andy.

Nice job Andy.

Now that's a handy little spreadsheet! Good work Andy.

They are a great help indeed Andy.