mark poulson Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 I have used a few of those styles also for some power carving stuff, mine were very aggressive when it comes to stock removal. http://www.saburr-tooth.com/toolsShank18.htm Travis, I have only used them on PVC trimboard, not on wood. I can see where they would grab the grain in wood. PVC has no grain, so it's easier to work with when I'm reaming out the hinge slots. This was my least favorite and hardest part to get right when I was using wood and PVC to shape my jointed swimbaits. When I changed to resin I incorporated the slots into the mold and they are clean and perfect every time. My method was to take a piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe and ripped it lengthwise on the table saw. Once I had a two foot long section of now crescent shaped pipe I slowly heated it with a heat gun and when it became pliable I pressed it between two sheets of plywood and let it cool. Now I had a flat piece to work with. I then ripped the flat stock to the desired width. Then moving to the bandsaw I cut small sections to fit the mold. Before the mold was cast in RTV I cut the slots in the master with a Dremel bit, inserted the PVC, and filled any gaps or imperfections around the area with filler. Now I was ready to pour the mold. Once the new mold had cured I removed the PVC from the master and could then use them in the mold with a little Vaseline brushed on. After pouring the resin and having it set up the PVC pulls right out. My molds hold everything to make the final bait including tow eye, ballast, hinge screw eyes, hinge slot "pins", and the hinge pin as well as a "key" to make the tail slot. Once poured and removed from the mold all that needs to be done prior to painting is sanding the parting lines and adding the tail. DaveB. KelpKritter Dave, That sounds like the perfect solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KelpKritter Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 For some form of reference I can de-mold, insert all components for new bait, mix and pour resin in roughly 15 minutes and essentially have a bait ready to paint. The slot "pins" integrated into the mold made s HUGE difference in appearance and time saving. DaveB. KelpKritter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 For some form of reference I can de-mold, insert all components for new bait, mix and pour resin in roughly 15 minutes and essentially have a bait ready to paint. The slot "pins" integrated into the mold made s HUGE difference in appearance and time saving. DaveB. KelpKritter Wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 No doubt molding it would be the way to go if that is an option. With a few molds I could pour foamies non stop until running out of weighted inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
