bobv

Make sure the jar you use has a good sealing lid, put the lid on tight then foil over the lid with a rubber band to hold it.

I use a skinny jar like olives come in and keep the lid tight and cover with foil. Just put enough in to cover baits. Keep the rest sealed in the original can and use the hole in the can method to decant.. Been using the same qt. for 6mos.

Just google it, lots of places on-line to get it and it's cheaper in the big bottles. Got mine here- www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rga_dev.htm

You can get Etex at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. It's call Envirotex Lite and it's with the other laminating stuff.

I've been using DN from the same can for 6mo. Poured some into another small diameter tall container to dip in. Works great. I use the screw in the bottom of the can to keep the bulk of it fresh, it really isn't a big deal if you keep everything sealed tight.

First off don't use the can it came in to dip into. Pour smaller amounts in to jars with small opening, just big enough for your bait. I use a small olive jar with a good tight lid and cover that with aluminum foil when I'm done. Dip your bait in and pull it out letting it drip into another container. Seal up you jar as soon as you are done. Hang your bait to dry 24hrs and repeat if necessary.

When I first started using DN I was having similar problems. It is real easy to over brush it. You really need to get it on and minimize the brushing. I solved my problems by dipping my lures. No wrinkling no matter how many coats.

My local Hobby Lobby and Micaels both carry fine glitter. You may need to look harder, it's not in the same area as the glue glitter.

It's called an airbrush manifold. You can get just about any size you want. Check this one out. http://www.tcpglobal.com/AirbrushDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=ABD+MF03

Your air pressure depends somewhat on how you thin your paint and your brush its self. I usually run between 15 - 20 with my Badger 100. Works great. As far as eyes, I had that question too. I recently started putting the clear over them and they look great. Anybody out there have any bad results doing this?

Sand down the bubbles and put on a second coat d2t. The old finish will be scuffed up but will clear up when you apply the next coat. I usually thin my d2t with acetone for a second coat so I don't end up with a huge amount of finish. I doesn't take much acetone, err on the light side.

Oh, I gotcha. It's been a long time since I bought any at Wally World I don't remember the price. I buy mine on line in the big bottles for a lot less.

Last spring I was in an Auto Zone to get some oil and noticed they carried a lot of different adhesives. They had some 5min D2T but no 30 min. Right next to the D2T was Permatex 30min epoxy. I noticed the tubes and instructions looked very much like the Devcon. I pulled both off the board and looked over the packaging carefully and they looked identical except for the printed cardboard. So I bought the Permatex to try out. I works just like Devcon and I fished with the baits I made all spring and summer with no problems. I pulled them out today and they look like new. I suspect a lot of the epoxies out there are the same. I still buy Devcon if available but don't hesitate to buy other brands in a pinch. Lot's of places on-line sell D2T if you aren't in a rush.

I bought a large bottle of Apple Barrel white a while back to use as a base coat. I transferred some of it to a smaller bottle and thinned with windex. I can't tell any difference 2 months later, just mix thoroughly as it will separate.

That question has been brought up a few times:lol: You need to flash dry your createx. Use a heat gun or space heater something that will put some heat out. I usually use an acrylic clear too before using DN. If you are applying with a brush don't over do it, get it on and let it dry.

I've used Spaz Stix, foil looks better!

I use Createx clear before I finish with DN or CS sealcote. They eat the paint other wise. As mentioned, by themselves the water based clears are not durable.

Thanks guys, I'll check into these. Bob

Anybody have a good supplier for unfinished jig heads for bass fishing? Looking for flipping, finesse, and football heads in various sizes. Currently buying from Jann's, and Barlow's looking for a better price. Thanks

I recently bought some ghost pearl powder to use in my clear. It definitely needs to go over a dark color and you have to experiment to see what base color gives you what effect. I used red pearl over a black base and it give a very cool purple glow. With ghost pearl the effect is most evident in direct sunlight. The black bait looks black in dim light and glows purple in the sun. I've tried every way I can think of to get a picture but they just don't show the pearl.

I bought all my supplies from Cabela's and came out with excellent results. Only thing I did different was on my aluminum lids I used a spray glue I purchased from a body shop they use for gluing cloth tops on cars. Sprayed it using a paint sprayer and compressor. For you guys that don't have padding under your carpet, you can buy pads to lay on top to stand on. They sell them to use on floors behind counters, just remember to take it out after fishing to let the carpet air out.

It works great on Rattle baits since they are flat sided. I like to put a light coat of white over it just to knock down the reflectiveness a little then finish with D2t.

Make sure you didn't put the small drag washer on the bottom of the anti-reverse gear instead of on top. It could keep the clutch dog from engaging.